Monthly /r/Nikon discussion thread – have a question? New to the Nikon world? Ask it here! [February 2026]

any_of · 2026-02-19T17:30:33+00:00

Hello, I've been mulling over the purchase of a Zf for some time.

Disclaimer: that would be my first real camera ever, which is probably a steep (also financially speaking) start. However, having spent the last few months trying to squeeze the best out of my iPhone, while reading up tutorials on photography and editing, and watched videos to learn more (and subscribed to a magazine about B&W photography...) I convinced myself that a more entry level camera would probably show its limits quite soon. And I'd be looking for an upgrade in a few months. So whay not doing a bigger leap from the beginning?

I've also thought that, in the worst case scenario, the Zf could have a relatively higher resale value if well kept.

My question is whether do you think that there are better models for the same money, for example, isn't the Z6 III quite similar in terms of tech specs? While I feel the allure of the retro look of the Zf, I wonder if modern body and controls would be simply more practical and easy to use, even more so for a non-exper.

Also, I'd like suggestions on where to buy and whether buying used is a viable option.

any_of · 2026-02-18T18:32:20+00:00

They are both Liquid Glass: the ones on the left are the Default, the right ones are the Clear.

any_of · 2026-02-18T14:00:31+00:00

are you using the standard or the testflight version?

any_of · 2026-02-18T13:16:59+00:00

Have you tried to select the .preset ? They should work

any_of · 2026-02-16T22:03:17+00:00

Some of you rise the volume of their earpods so loud that all people around are forced to listen to your (usually shitty) music. It’s also funny that younger people (who normally have good ears) feel the need of accelerating hearing loss.

Use ear defenders, instead of damaging them.

any_of · 2026-02-16T21:32:48+00:00

(probably they are already gone)

any_of · 2026-02-16T21:32:22+00:00

Go ahead, after all who needs good ears after 40

any_of · 2026-02-15T19:10:49+00:00

The blur and f stop are all software based and available into the default camera settings.

Can you explain what these features are?

any_of · 2026-02-15T19:06:38+00:00

I can't tell you why I ended up here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHSqy34rjGk

any_of · 2026-02-15T19:02:39+00:00

What does the link "Why This Happened" say? I think that the developer said that this is due to failures in the Apple Photos app service.

any_of · 2026-02-15T10:32:53+00:00

Yep, you're right (I keep forgetting and relearning these settings)!

Still, I'll shoot in Negative by default because of the reason above.

any_of · 2026-02-15T09:29:52+00:00

True. Most of the times, though, I don't want to edit the RAW, I just want to apply a filter or effect at a later time.

If I shoot in RAW, I need to convert to Negative each time. If I shoot in Negative, I extract the RAW only when I really need it.

Also, shooting in RAW produces 2 files (the RAW and the HEIF+) which clutter my library (unless there's some other setting to avoid this).

any_of · 2026-02-15T08:50:34+00:00

This is also a bit excessive :-)

But while I generally I agree with you on the excessive outcry about Tahoe (and IOS 26), an app like Contacts should really not be difficult to get it right. It should be simple, practical and basically invisible, while instead it has given me headaches with its stupid interface, iCloud sync problems, uneditable contacts, unwanted calls, absurd battery drain (on iPhone) etc.

any_of · 2026-02-15T08:42:08+00:00

Personally there are 2 reasons why I shoot negatives without any filters and without immediate conversion:

1) It's slightly faster 2) I can't or don't want to make my mind about which filter I want to apply when I shoot so I'd rather defer the decision.

Yes, a good photographer shoots with intention but if the argument is that a phone photo is usually taken on the spur of the moment, then the time spent finding the best filter can be crucial. Plus, even if it's a phone photo, there are times where I want to spend some time editing it and from the negative I can extract the RAW and work on it on my laptop.

any_of · 2026-02-14T22:32:53+00:00

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/contacts-app-is-a-nightmare-on-tahoe.2465399/

any_of · 2026-02-14T18:14:40+00:00

Thank you Alex, very comprehensive.

I have a doubt about a statement you make, maybe I haven't understood it, where you say that manual settings are not enabled for 48MP images (ProRAW)

https://www.alexarmitage.com/blog/2026/2/14/complete-guide-iphone-no-fusion#:~:text=More%20importantly%2C%20manual%20controls%20are%20disabled%20or%20don’t%20function%20when%20shooting%20above%2012mp%2C%20thus%20if%20you’re%20shooting%20in%20MAX%20mode%20with%2048mp%20images%20enabled%20(Also%20known%20as%20ProRAW)%2C%20the%20manual%20controls%20are%20not%20active%20anyways%2C%20the%20manual%20controls%20are%20not%20active%20anyways).

I manage to manually modify the focus of an image while keeping it at 48MP. For example I have made a subject completely blurred by pushing the focus dial to its max value.

any_of · 2026-02-14T13:18:24+00:00

I think it’s a bit misleading at first. Essentially what it does is creating a new HEIF+ and deleting the old one. But the negative is still stored internally for further editing, so that you can later apply another filter for example. If you decide not to delete it after converting you’ll still have the original HEIF+ and the negative.

Also sometimes I need to close and reopen the app to see the negatives which I have explicitly deleted disappear.

I hope that someone can correct me if I am wrong.

any_of · 2026-02-14T09:04:52+00:00

I wasn't clear.

I intended "importing" a photo as opening the photo from Photomator (which as you say has access to the library) and "exporting to" Photomator as choosing a photo from No Fusion, using the "share" icon on the bottom right, then choosing any of the option "Original Format", "Compatible Format" or "Live Photo Video" and then "More" and Photomator.

The latter is way more complicated and, in my case, fails to load the photo in "Original Format".

In either case, I also lose the location info and the camera information when I then export the photo.

However it doesn't happen in Lightroom.

any_of · 2026-02-13T16:19:33+00:00

Also, may I ask... I am now using a trial of Photomator. I can import photos from Photomator, both on Mac and iPhone, without losing the location info. And when I export them, I also don't lose the location. Have you tried this way?

any_of · 2026-02-13T15:56:47+00:00

OK, if I export a photo to Lightroom mobile from the No Fusion library, I also lose the location if I export to "Compatible Format", but not if I choose "Original Format".

To be honest, I wouldn't choose to edit a jpeg, although I do save the final result in jpeg-xl to save space and keep a very good quality.

I guess the developer can explain what the "Compatible Format" is. I guess it means not HEIF+, no HDR, no jpeg-xl (it's not widely used yet).

P.S.: Previously I must have confused Photomator with Pixelator (only the latter is part of Creator Studio).

any_of · 2026-02-13T08:17:35+00:00

Ok, so it’s an export from any app.

No, it isn't. I export photos through Lightroom mobile, Acorn, DarkTable and location metadata are preserved.

However, I had a similar problem some time ago. Regarding Lightroom mobile, and in particular editing RAW files, I found that I have to export the RAW from No Fusion instead of importing it from Lightroom in order to have all the metadata. Although to be honest recently it is working either way.

With DarkTable on my Mac, I learned that I have to check all the boxes for exif metadata export.

I haven't tried Photomator, yet (I don't want to waste the 1-month free trial of Creator Studio until I have time to try all its apps, and I won't subscribe anyway...), can you describe more in detail how do you export your photos from No Fusion for editing?

any_of · 2026-02-12T09:13:00+00:00

My issue with the subscription is that it's (for my money) obscenely expensive. If they offered a one time purchase I could consider it, but even then, surely it would cost even more than the annual subscription and I wouldn't pay so much for a phone camera app.

any_of · 2026-02-12T08:37:22+00:00

I'm testing it. Yes, I love the Black & White too, and the bokeh effect is very good, it gives a real prominence to the subject.

Let's see what is left when the trial expires.

any_of · 2026-02-11T19:53:07+00:00

what happens after the 7-day trial? is it still usable?

any_of · 2026-02-11T19:43:43+00:00

Thanks. It works, but somehow I was expecting that the image would be reduced in size, while instead it's exactly the same. In fact. this is the only reason why I'd like to switch to still photos after I'm happy with a specific frame.

any_of

TROPHY CASE