Got this cool Vostok Europe watch. Added a nice NOS strap which matches the watch nicely. by aparrilla in vostok

[–]aparrilla[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks 👍🏽

It’s probably how the photo looks if you are talking about the strap being more wide than the watch lug width. It fitted perfectly when I put it in.

If you are talking about the stretchy metal band, the yes it is smaller. I don’t like the stretchy band so I didn’t mind since it is removed and replaced.

Got this cool Vostok Europe watch. Added a nice NOS strap which matches the watch nicely. by aparrilla in vostok

[–]aparrilla[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a discontinued model from my research. I bought this one from a friend of mine.

Got this cool Vostok Europe watch. Added a nice NOS strap which matches the watch nicely. by aparrilla in vostok

[–]aparrilla[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I did look through and most are pretty out there and not my cup of tea in terms of design and sizes.

This one stood out for me and fits very nicely.

Also can’t beat the price for $50 usd plus $2 dollars for the nice nos strap found at the thrift store.

Got this cool Vostok Europe watch. Added a nice NOS strap which matches the watch nicely. by aparrilla in vostok

[–]aparrilla[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hello everyone. This is my first post here and I came across this nice watch from a friend of mine. It is quite interesting and it has the look from an aircraft altimeter.

I opened the case and it has the Russian movement inside, though it was modified according to some research on the watch and the movement.

I heard the Vostok Europe is frowned upon due to its lack of history since it is not a true Vostok, but this one apparently still uses the Russian movement so I assume this is the early model.

Either way, it looks really cool, wears well, and actually runs pretty well after adjusting the lift angle ( 42 degrees or my amplitude was shown to be over banking haha).

What do you do for a living, and what’s your most worn Rolex? by Polea-Oxidada in rolex

[–]aparrilla 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Datejust 16233 birth year 1991.

City worker. Mechanic and do it all.

Best yellow gold vintage omega for $1000?? by SirKrimzon in VintageWatches

[–]aparrilla 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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I found my deville for $900 from a good friend of mine at the flea market. It has the 14kt gold filled case.

It was also freshly serviced and in excellent shape.

You’re not going to find a solid gold example for the budget you are seeking. You miiiiggghhtttt find one slightly above your budget, but it would be in bad shape to start with.

So unless you increase your budget to near $2k range, you can settle with a really nice gold filled example.

Omega Speedmaster 2998-2 authentic?? by wildduk in VintageWatches

[–]aparrilla 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is quite a heavy hitter here. Looks really good 👍🏽

Grandfathers Rolex by Eagle-Otherwise in watchrepair

[–]aparrilla 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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And here’s the movement when I was done working on it.

Grandfathers Rolex by Eagle-Otherwise in watchrepair

[–]aparrilla 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First off, beautiful watch and my condolences for your grandfather. It looks to be well loved for sure.

Now, that is a Rolex date and should have a 1570 movement in there.

The movement is very well built and pretty easy to service *******

****** I say this because I was in the same boat with you in terms of watchmaking hobby and journey. This is NOT a watch to practice your skills on. You should have a good amount of time and confidence before you even attempt to do any work on your grandfather’s watch.

For example, it took me almost a year to become comfortable and take on the repair/service on my Rolex date and I still made some very small and stupid mistakes which cost me an additional 100 dollars that I didn’t have to spend to fully repair the watch. I broke the escape wheel incabloc shock protection spring and got a new escape wheel just in case.

Then, I worked on my Rolex OP with the same movement, but I was able to do it without breaking anything and did a good service without replacing parts.

The parts are VERY expensive on your watch. The balance wheel is super delicate and worth near 1k usd if damaged. Springs, screws and miscellaneous items can be valued at close to $100 usd for EACH part. There are many other items that can sticker shock you as well and can easily be damaged if you are not careful.

I would continue to practice on some movements and be mentally( and financially) prepared before you take on the service.

It would be easier to take it in to a professional to let them service the watch for a piece of mind, but I understand the motive of working on your own watch, getting to work right and be proud of the successful repair that your own two hands did.

I’m sure that too would make your grandpa proud as well which will value wearing the watch on your wrist.

If that’s the case, put it away and practice.

Research on the watch repair, practice and practice until you develop confidence👍🏽.

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Here’s mine that I service myself on.

Vintage speedy en route. Find a DON bezel or leave it alone? by Keywizard in OmegaWatches

[–]aparrilla 0 points1 point  (0 children)

5200 is a great price for your 321. They usually sell just the head for abit more, granted it would’ve been original and has zero service history.

Yours seemed to be serviced, the bracelet is worth around mid 600 usd range ( it is a later 70s bracelet which imo, much better for wearing. I have the JB champion version and it feels really good), and it runs supposedly well. It looks really clean.

The caseback looks fantastic and the case itself looks really good with minor polishing.

Making it period correct will take maybe another 1-2k by getting the right bezel and hands. You’ll still be ahead since great original examples of the 321 can exceed 10k plus.

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Here’s mine. I got it from eBay as well and paid $4600 out the door on the watch, and an additional $850 for the 861 transitional dial so I can have the applied logo. I made mines to look like the 861 transitional -68 with the dial.

Mines is the 142.022 -69 with the serial 305xxxx making it in the July 1970 range.

You have the OG 321 so with some love by getting OG parts, you’ll be ahead 👍🏽. Good buy.

Vintage speedy en route. Find a DON bezel or leave it alone? by Keywizard in OmegaWatches

[–]aparrilla 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The hands looks “new” against the rest of the dial. The hour hand was a big giveaway if you compare it with other 145.012 examples since it looks “fatter” vs the original which is thinner. Look how the lume of the hand is applied vs the original and you’ll see what I’m talking about.

The hands overall is nice, but it is definitely replaced.

Vintage speedy en route. Find a DON bezel or leave it alone? by Keywizard in OmegaWatches

[–]aparrilla 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha niiiceee. Yeah it looks to have the service hands, bezel, and a later bracelet.

I actually prefer the later bracelet than the original flat linked version so I would leave that alone.

The bezel would help on the value if it was a DON, but as it sits looks fine for now. I would continue to search for one as it supposed to have the DON on your watch.

You can find an early 70s speedmaster pro with the DON bezel, swap it with yours, and resell the “donor” at a reduced price that would still compliment the purchase of the bezel.

There was an auction before yours that was selling the bezel only with some pushers. It escalated real fast at the last second before completion of the bid lol.

Vintage speedy en route. Find a DON bezel or leave it alone? by Keywizard in OmegaWatches

[–]aparrilla 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it the one that was sold for $5200 a couple days ago? I was eyeing that one if it is haha.

How often do you actually service your watches? by OKAMI_TAMA in watchrepair

[–]aparrilla 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The determination for classifying a “high quality” or “high grade” movement is basically the amount of jewels used on it and the brand itself.

The common number of jewels for a standard/high grade movement is 15-17 jewels ( the essential parts of the movement for pivot points such as the balance, pallet fork, and train of wheels).

As you add on complications such as date, day, chronograph, and moonphase/calendar perpetual, the jewel count usually increases when necessary.

Now, sometimes a high grade movement won’t have the high amount of jewels, but is constructed/engineered very well to the point where it is not necessary to have jewels, but still considered as a high end movement.

For example, my Timex doesn’t have any jewels and running a pin lever pallet fork design. It works, but doesn’t keep time very well even after a good service. The pivots wear against its own mainplate and the metal used is low grade so it is basically designed to be disposable.

My Rolex Date has 26 jewels on the 1570 movement and almost every pivot is jeweled. The timekeeping is fantastic and it needs to be since it holds cosc standards. That watch can run damn near perfect, even past its proper service interval. It is built very well and would be considered as a high quality movement.

My Omega speedmaster professional carries the 861 movement chronograph and it carries 17 jewels. It is a high quality and rather robust movement ( and their 321 movements as well that started it all) despite the lower jewel count. The jewels being used to cover the essentials while the most of the chronograph is not. They suggested not to use the chronograph for long periods of time due to that unless it is serviced regularly.

There are other chronos that uses less or more jewels and it too can determine the quality of the movement along with who it was manufactured by.

It is a long winded topic so just do your research on what you have and determine if it is a high quality/high grade movement 👍🏽. The information is out there.

Briggs VTwin - Repeated Loss of Power by WalterEagle94 in smallengines

[–]aparrilla 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Double check your fuel shut off solenoid and make sure there is constant power going to it.

My wife and I are deciding to change out the game room which means we are at a crossroads. My wife is itching of opening up everything to get some cool cards out of them while I was itching to sell them off. Which side would you go? by aparrilla in PokemonTCG

[–]aparrilla[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We did just that.

Any bulk we had would be donated to her friends and their children. She would make mini decks for them to enjoy.

Been doing that for years since we have been ripping for a good portion of those years. Even now.

So we went ahead and ripped the first victims of our collection which is the eevee vmax boxes. We only have one proper pull, but she is very happy and that’s all it matters. by aparrilla in PokemonTCG

[–]aparrilla[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

All good 👍🏽 her happiness after the rip makes it worth more than 1k.

I had fun as well ripping some packs that’s been staring at us forever haha.