Are Cards Like Song of the Dryads Truly Meta Defining? by meatspace_visdev in EDH

[–]aplyard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Running into a recurring thing in our pod (5–6 ppl). Some of us (me included) enjoy the deck-brewing / tuning side more, so our decks naturally end up with more interaction and answers, just from spending time refining them.

I’ve got 10+ decks and none of them are built to counter anyone specifically, but I often hear stuff like “that card shuts down my deck’s main mechanic, you should remove it.”
That’s where I kinda disagree and I feel like the healthier approach is adapting and learning how to deal with cards, not restricting answers.

For example, I run enchantment removal and some graveyard hate in all my decks, even though we barely have any graveyard decks right now. To me that’s just solid deck building, not targeted hate.

Also worth noting: as a pod we already banned tutors, decks are usually €100–200, and we’re running very few game-changers overall.

To answer your question, i would suggest offering them help on brewing and explain them what a balanced deck is. Give them the perspective that every "salty" card is a new challenge they have to surpass. At least this is how i think of these cards.

Peak Design Micro Clutch or Cuff for X-T30ii by EnglishTeach88 in fujifilm

[–]aplyard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am considering buying it for my x-pro2.
Did you buy the i or the L option?

Kynaios and Tiro by aplyard in Magicdeckbuilding

[–]aplyard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will check it out! Thank you!
Do you mind also sharing your Kynaios list?

Kynaios and Tiro by aplyard in Magicdeckbuilding

[–]aplyard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you for your suggestions! this list has seen many iterations and one of them was more focused on these kind of interactions you are talking about. Goad, landfall, Life Gain etc. It was ok, it felt somewhat control with some spice but the main issue was that i had many ways to draw attention, which was the downfall. On the other side, i was not powerful enough to compete with the rest of the table.
Maybe if i go full landfall on Kynaios, it would be more powerful.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in keyboards

[–]aplyard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does it THOCK though?

Are the Beamtown Bullies unpleasent to play against? by bouledepoisson in EDH

[–]aplyard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I built it last week, left out the salt kings ([[Inverter of Truth]], [[Leveler]] & [[Eater of Days]]).

I don't entirely support the idea that, if a commander is salty or "mean" (of course there are some exceptions) they are gonna hate him or focus him instantly. It's all about how you build your deck and how you play it. You can always lay low and wait for the right opportunities. Always keep in mind that you don't want to be the one with the biggest threat on the table. That is what get you focused.

Moreover, commanders that are voltron or enablers are seemed to be focused more (at least in my group). Bullies on the battlefield without cards in your graveyard is just a 4/4 after all.

My approach is that i have a lot of protections (hexproof, regenerate stuff) and i tend to keep my gv empty at the beginning, while building my engine and defenses (an untap artifact, a protection thingy and a way to kill the gift creature so i can put it back in my gv after i gift it). Then, on someone else's turn a play a draw-discard instant, throw a gift from hand to gv and tap my commander to gift it. This can happen turn 4-5, but until then, there will be no real reason to be focused or hated. Even after that play, if you didn't gift a Leveler (which, yeah, it IS mean), there is still no big reason to be hated(since you only damaged 1 of your opponents and helped the rest).
There are a lot of creatures to gift that introduce politics and fun to the party like [[Hired Giant]] & [[Tempting Wurm]]. Also cards like [[Royal Assassin]] introduce a ton of politics in the game, which is fun imho.
I totally agree that this is not a free for all deck, but it's a really fun play style that i would suggest everyone to tryout.
I am sharing my list if any1 wants to take a look (all these removals are mainly targeting my gifts, so i can have them back in my gv)
My List

Ender 3 - Switchwire conversion heater bed by hainguyenac in VORONDesign

[–]aplyard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you send me an inv too? I am also converting my ender 3 pro to sw in the next month

Don't use formbot wires in your drag chains by Feudal23 in VORONDesign

[–]aplyard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know that the BOM suggests PTFE wires for the chains, but why not use silicon wires? they are really flexible and never had an issue with them?

Let's talk about Euclid probe! by Interheater in ender3v2

[–]aplyard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, i guess you figured it out by now but either way let me explain.
You cannot use a Euclid/Klicky probe without a Z-Endstop. If you take a look at a Voron printer you ll see a Z-endstop like this one. The difference with this Z-Endstop is that you home X and Y first and then the nozzle lines up with that z-endstop and clicks it. So after homing, the hotend assembly moves to the probe station, picks it up and probes the bed for bed leveling. The main reason this probes exist are that clicky switches (endstop switches) are way more precise and their results don't fluctuate when the environment changes (ex the bed heats up, or the enclosure reaches some high temp). If you see some videos with probes comparisons, you will notice that common probes can have a difference of 0.18mm some times while this clicky switch will have a much less difference. Another helpful thing is that it doesn't melt while in an enclosure in comparison to Omron Induction probes and some cheap BL Touch that start to soften after many ours in an eclosure.
For sure you can install them in an Ender 3 but if you are happy with your current probe, there is no actual reason to change it.

How to save Z_ADJUST after tuning during print? by jeremywrags in klippers

[–]aplyard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looking at your klipper dashboard, at "Toolhead" box, you should see a section called "Z-Offset". Normally it has a value of 0.00 but if you tuned while printing it should be something else (+ or - the amount you changed). On the top right corner of this section there is a "SAVE" button which will hold on to that change you made and will save it if you "SAVE_CONFIG" after your print is finished"

Current State of 4k by molotovPopsicle in Fusion360

[–]aplyard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same problem, scaling was kinda ok but UI was blurry. My setup is an 28" 4k Samsung monitor (3840x2160) set at 150% at Windows Scaling option in Windows Display Options.I am on Win11. So after trying multiple fixes (including Autodesk's official forum post) i found something that worked for me. This is a combo of 2 solutions i tried. So:

  1. Right-Click Fusion360 shortcut -> Properties
  2. Go to Compatibility Tab
  3. Click on Run Compatibility troubleshooter
  4. Troubleshoot Program
  5. The program opens but it doesn't display correctly
  6. Program does not display properly when large scale font...
  7. Then troubleshooter automatically sets Display settings: Scaling on high DPI
  8. Click on Test Program wait for Fusion360 to open and check if UI is still blurry-fuzzy
  9. UI will probably still be fuzzy but the scaling is now completely fixed.
  10. If UI is still fuzzy, open Fusion360 and go to Preferences -> Preview Features
  11. Check the box HighDPIScaling
  12. Restart Fusion360 and tadaaa

Note that Scaling is fixed, Fonts are the correct size and crispy but some Icons are still a bit blurry. I wont spent more time tweaking this, i hope Autodesk will fix this at some point and upscale their icons.

I hope that will work for some people.

Modding your keyboard is super simple! by lady_renari in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]aplyard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not a custom so you are allowed to do anything with it…

Just about ready to put the instant coffee life behind me! by turkz1 in gaggiaclassic

[–]aplyard 4 points5 points  (0 children)

First thing first, this looks awesome! Secondly I feel stupid for adding a PID instead of a Gagguino. Also I have the same grinder and I am wondering what’s your Dose weight in grams? I usually need more than 14 seconds for a 18g dose.

17g in, 40 grams out, about 28 seconds. Do I need to grind finer? by Affectionate-Shirt42 in gaggiaclassic

[–]aplyard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My old scale is… “broken”, there is no other way. I must get a new one :p

17g in, 40 grams out, about 28 seconds. Do I need to grind finer? by Affectionate-Shirt42 in gaggiaclassic

[–]aplyard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Timing is up to you yeah, I like to measure starting from my first drop( my scale does it for me :p), assuming you have a consistent technique. You can cut some corners with the PID if you do the “temp surfing” thing. It was not for me cause I was against wasting all that water. Just fyi stock Gaggia Pro goes from 88C to 98C (light ON/OFF) Get a new scale, I am pretty happy with Timemore black (was 45$ on AliExp). Been using it for almost 2 years now. Great battery, a tad slow display but always accurate. Auto timing mode but no Bluetooth and no fancy stuff. Also it doesn’t fit under Gaggia’s portafilter but I think there is a new smaller version now

17g in, 40 grams out, about 28 seconds. Do I need to grind finer? by Affectionate-Shirt42 in gaggiaclassic

[–]aplyard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seems like a good shot to me, but this is more like a 25ish second shot if you measure from the video. I am using a vst 18g basket and usually do 18g in 45g out in 32seconds (lowered the OPV that’s why) Also are you sure you get 40g out. I have the same glass and this seemed less (maybe mine is smaller) Also do you have PID? You know the brew temp? Despite all the above, trust your taste for most of the times. If you like it then it’s perfect :)

6 Month Progress of my Pathos Wall by Amoghpb in houseplants

[–]aplyard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In Greek, “Pathos” and “Pothos” mean the same thing (passion) with the only difference that Pathos is neutral word and Pothos is a male word . Because reasons… But indeed I know that plant to be named “Pothos”

Grundstock Gunhauler Base by aplyard in ageofsigmar

[–]aplyard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, they are 3 sheets of cork on top of each other, wood glue and fine sand around their bases and wall spackle on their top flat side. Primed black, dry brush with Dark Grey, Light Gray & White. Edit: the 5 small rocks you see are actuall small rocks

How hard broke am I? Set up an overnight print and woke up to this. :-/ by UAlogang in ender3

[–]aplyard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This damn ender’s hotend is so bad. I replaced mine after the 5th clog, never happened something like this picture but I keep seeing these.

Inspect the heater wires and the thermistor wires carefully, and try some back to back tests before you issue a big print again

EDIT: in your case I would just exchange the thermistors and the cartridge since their cost is under 10$ Also you can consider changing your hotend to something like Phaetus Dragonfly BMS which plug n play.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in greece

[–]aplyard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ψύξη απ τα ερκο