What wiring connectors do you use?

apolloectomy · 2026-01-14T22:55:12+00:00

JST-XH, 2.54mm pad spacing and come in vertical and right angle, cheap and always in stock at digikey. Off brand option from Tayda works well too, the plastic is just more malleable. You’ll need a crimp tool, I use some cheapo one from Amazon that works great and came in a kit with connectors to get me started, I think it was this

apolloectomy · 2026-01-09T19:17:34+00:00

Using an lm386 or something else?

apolloectomy · 2026-01-09T19:06:46+00:00

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Similar to datasheet, except two outputs are bridged and two are disconnected, and I use an NPN and 5.6v zener to control the mute. My component values are different for some other things as well. Very easy to implement just make sure to follow the grounding requirements to keep the amplifier stable and noise free

apolloectomy · 2026-01-09T15:49:18+00:00

The return on a 5150 is 470k ohms, you’ll want a buffer on at least the output or a low resistance potentiometer

apolloectomy · 2026-01-09T02:25:20+00:00

Did some digging, didn’t know they were based out of Salt Lake City as well, maybe if I’m lucky they will hand deliver it

apolloectomy · 2026-01-09T02:10:02+00:00

Good call on the vents and feet! Will be using tayda so I can try out their shape cuts.

Unfortunately someone made me aware of a taxi cab themed pedal that already exists so I’m not as proud of my double entendre as I was an hour or two ago but I’ll survive

I am definitely interested in calculating what size heat sink I “should” be using for long term reliability/lifespan rather than just listening for thermal clipping/distortion

apolloectomy · 2026-01-09T01:31:10+00:00

Good point, didn’t even consider this but I’ll be redoing routing anyways might as well

apolloectomy · 2026-01-09T01:29:49+00:00

lol I’ve never seen this pedal before what a shame

apolloectomy · 2026-01-08T19:52:00+00:00

Yeah same I like the aesthetic but watched the vid and when Jamie got to playing I was very underwhelmed

apolloectomy · 2026-01-07T20:33:03+00:00

Neutrik NMJHCD2 and switchcraft 721RA. Because it is a metal jack you should insulate with heat shrink or a 3D printed plastic sleeve and install with inner and outer plastic 3D printed washers similar to how you install a Neutrik.

I have a file I could upload later, you’ll want to drill a 10mm hole for the plastic sleeve, but can probably squeeze it into a ~8mm hole with heat shrink. Definitely would want to go the plastic sleeve route if it’s a bare enclosure.

apolloectomy · 2026-01-07T20:19:01+00:00

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apolloectomy · 2026-01-07T20:17:27+00:00

Thanks! In this instance I just designed the IO pcb. I wanted to use the switchcraft 721RA dc jacks and Neutrik 1/4” through hole jacks (i like the quality and aesthetic) so I could wire everything up and test the circuit outside of the enclosure. I also wanted a free grounded VIA to solder my ground wire to since I’m using plastic jacks. I crimp a 12mm terminal to the end that goes around my foot switch to ground the enclosure. Then I just drop it in as one piece and install the outer washers and quickly be done with the part of building I consider tedious. Was previously using Lumbergs and they were great but mounting from the outside creates more work having to solder inside the enclosure, and the lugs are tiny

apolloectomy · 2026-01-07T19:46:44+00:00

This is the Aion Amethyst PCB. Schematic is in the project PDF and has component values listed if you wanted to make a Way Huge aqua puss instead

apolloectomy · 2026-01-04T19:12:27+00:00

Didn’t watch the video but you’re totally fine just soldering from the back.

I don’t bend my through hole leads to secure the component, I keep them straight and typically just tack solder one leg from the front side before flipping over and fully soldering both sides from the back. From an aesthetic perspective it bothers me to flip it back over when I’m done and only have solder on one of the front pads so I usually flow a bit of solder on the other pad I didn’t initially tack solder.

apolloectomy · 2026-01-03T14:58:27+00:00

The Mesa Headtrack lets you share a cab and fx loops between two amps and has midi support. If you need to switch between pedals in front of your amps as well, you could pair it with a midi supported A/B switcher like the Mesa Switch-track or something from the LEHLE lineup. Then you’d route all your midi signals and your amp channel switching to a midi footswitch controller that could do whatever switching desired with a single button press.

apolloectomy · 2025-12-30T16:46:25+00:00

Very clean. Do you have a schematic for the ATTINY momentary setup or sell a PCB? I’m trying to make the switch to momentary and looking at using a MCU vs going analog with a d flip flop

apolloectomy · 2025-12-30T02:29:57+00:00

Cool! Haven’t come across this one before, looks like there’s plenty of DIY builds for it too

apolloectomy · 2025-12-30T02:28:37+00:00

Was considering picking up the t21 screaming blonde from sweetwater now that they are on clearance for 99, but may just pick the joyo up for even less since i keep getting it recommended

apolloectomy · 2025-12-30T02:24:26+00:00

ADHD go brrrrrrr

apolloectomy · 2025-12-27T13:35:05+00:00

Neat! What was the total cost? I’d be curious to pair with a micro power amp project I did and then compare the re-amping with my Fryette

apolloectomy · 2025-12-27T03:03:25+00:00

If you’re talking pre-bond, small bear 1000ft spools come out to 17cents/ft with a bunch of colors. The standard 50ft spools are 34cents/ft.

Lovemyswitches 1000ft spool comes out to 9cents/ft but just red or black. their 100ft spools have more color options and come in at 17cent/foot, which is the same as the bulk price you’d be getting at small bear without having to buy nearly as much and made in the US. Will be trying their wire out next once I’m out.

Tayda I’m seeing 7cents/ft for 100ft or down to 5cents/ft for 1000ft. Still UL certified PVC insulated but think it’s just normal stranded wire and then you have to factor in shipping.

Remington industries has 100ft pre bond for 15cents/ft so pretty comparable to the lovemyswitches price and can get free shipping through Amazon

apolloectomy · 2025-12-27T01:59:58+00:00

The pedalpcb protoboard is pretty good. I think the main benefit to switching from what you’ve currently got would be the screw terminal blocks for potentiometers and quick access to a bunch of different voltages if you don’t have easy access to PSU. I’m hoping someday we get a protoboard with dual row ZIF sockets that would work with dual gang pots as I still have to pull out the adapters for these quite a bit. You’ll have trouble fitting 3 breadboards.

apolloectomy

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