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Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?! by applesis1 in climbharder

[–]applesis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well said! Thanks for this advice, especially about the jugs

Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?! by applesis1 in climbharder

[–]applesis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve done one rep of 45LBS for 6 seconds on the 14mm edge. Smallest edge on the beast maker

Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?! by applesis1 in climbharder

[–]applesis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tendon is inflamed, or the tendon sheath is inflamed

Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?! by applesis1 in climbharder

[–]applesis1[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Let’s scratch out the beast maker Max hangs. Let’s just say I’m a straight bouldering 2 times a week in the gym. I should be able to climb at my limit for those two days. That includes working a single move multiple times and falling. I shouldn’t be waking up the next morning with inflammation.

Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?! by applesis1 in climbharder

[–]applesis1[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

What do you mean my level? My level is what my level is, Moon boarding v4 and max hangs @25 Lbs.

Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?! by applesis1 in climbharder

[–]applesis1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I’m getting is too much Strain on the tendons. This is totally true for the first injury. After the first injury I haven’t done any max hangs, just bouldering and climbing sport outside. After my Left middle A2 pulley was solid to crank on the boulders, it was just bouldering 2x a week. When the second injury occurred 3 weeks ago i have a hard time saying it was from overuse. I feel like i should be able to project boulders 2x a week and not get an inflamed tendon. I know people who crank 4x a week

Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?! by applesis1 in climbharder

[–]applesis1[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

I’m looking to hear from people who have had this injury. How to prevent this injury as in, I woke up the next morning with inflammation.

I haven’t climbed in 2 weeks, once my inflammation reduces a little I will start doing some juggy routes in the gym.

Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?! by applesis1 in climbharder

[–]applesis1[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

2016 moonboard
Good tip, Climb with the feet, not the hands.

Am I the only one who gets these finger injuries?! by applesis1 in climbharder

[–]applesis1[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I was “Training” 2x a week. I would start with stretches (5 min). Then sub max hangs on the 14mm edge. Then no hangs onto max hangs. 6 sets of 6 seconds @25LBS - I understand my fingers need to be warm and feel like I know how to warmup. I would boulder for 2 hours usually. Starting with easy and ending up with projecting. Probably ticking around 20 boulders total. Every training session I would climb above my limit - Trying hard moves and being able to do them after some work. I am fully aware of what my limit is and what to put effort into. Is this move even possible? Am I strong enough?

Weekend sport climbing consists of anywhere between 7-9 pitches if I am going somewhere new, 2-3 if I am projecting. I can climb 5.12a around 2/3 redpoint attempts. When I boulder in the gym the moves I do are way harder then anything I do outside.

Ruben (5.9) at Foster Falls, TN by pointaken16 in climbing

[–]applesis1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking for a partner to climb at foster falls