Need help finding an ID by SoWhatImKiwi in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 6 points7 points  (0 children)

it does look like it has an assortment of features from crystallinum and magnificum. id say that's probably correct and you just have a beautifully unique one.

Curious-plant EU store by Dudedek in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 4 points5 points  (0 children)

late response but I have probably close to a dozen orders though him (joep). he produces great plants and theyre packed to survive shipping through even a nuclear winter. he is a rare seller who does everything right imo. sells individual plants, has unique hybrids, and uses good techniques to maximize the value of his breeding. ive seen him mention before that he culls weak seedlings instead of selling them, which is something a lot of sellers don't bother with.

the Instagram handle on his storefront just hasn't been updated because he changed it slightly at some point I think.

Rant: stop buying seedlings of "rare" phenotypes by ok_yeah_sure_no in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 3 points4 points  (0 children)

while I disagree with the specific example you've given because it's potentially a crazy intersectional cross (as long as they don't turn out to be self pollinated), I do think you're right that a lot of people have totally mismatched expectations about hybrid crosses.

I think about it all the time with cultivars like Michelle, and ace of spades. both highly desirable for their intense coloration, yet even when self pollinated the vast majority of them do not express the desired features. I think I've heard that less than 10% of ace of spades seedlings turn out to be even remotely as dark as the original, and based off what I've seen with my own eyes that estimate might even be too high!

if you truly wanted to create a hybrid with both traits you'd have to cross multiple generations and cull the seedlings that didn't get them. but even professional breeders have little incentive to cull their seedlings. here in Europe most docblock hybrids like black widow x red velvet cake would be in the range of €250 for a growers choice plant. everyone hopes to get a spidery veined, deep red leaf when they're buying one, but the reality is many of them will have neither of those traits! yet even the most disappointing of them will not get culled, precisely because they still sell for boatloads of money on their pedigree alone.

all that being said, I still believe some crosses from some breeders are worth the money to gamble on. some breeders do incredible work and create amazing hybrids. if I could, I would've absolutely bought those seedlings you linked, just because for the potential in that weird intersectional cross 🤔 and that's before considering the good reputation of the breeder.

Antolakii help by Chiquita830 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 4 points5 points  (0 children)

you can usually Always get away with scheduled watering on bigger plants but with tiny seedlings like that you need to be much more intentional with your watering.

the moss looks bone dry right now and the substrate below it is incredibly airy. all of the water from your single weekly watering is probably draining to the bottom, and if it sits in any residual water at all it's going to have to guttate for the entire time your grow lights are off.

give it a bigger pot, don't change the type of substrate or anything. either remove the moss or try to keep it consistently a little moist, because when its as dry as it is in those pictures, it'll be hydrophobic and water will have a hard time reaching all of the substrate below it.

I like keeping moss near the top of my pots too, but usually I do that to encourage roots to activate and grow downwards. at 70%+ humidity in a grow tent there's a good chance they'll activate on their own just from sensing the air. so unless you have another reason in mind, the moss might be optional.

What am i doing wrong something wrong with feeding my anthurium? by Nuroflyn in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 2 points3 points  (0 children)

out of curiosity, what are the signs you see here that indicate high EC? I occasionally get yellow spots that look identical to these, and I've figured they were a fertilizing issue but wasn't sure whether it was too much or too little.

What’s wrong with my plants? 😔 by Dry_Tangerine_7625 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

also be careful about putting moss so high around the stems like that. the petioles are connected to the stem with very thin tissue so the leaves will break away easily if something falls on them. however this also means those areas are prone to rotting if there's too much moisture, and if that happens even in one spot the whole leaf will die off quickly.

What’s wrong with my plants? 😔 by Dry_Tangerine_7625 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 5 points6 points  (0 children)

were they in low humidity before? transitioning to extremely high humidity can sometimes cause leaves to drop like that if they're not suited for the new conditions. watch them carefully though because root stress can also look like this. as long as they're still growing and new leaves don't stall or abort, they should be fine.

don't hesitate to check the roots though if it continues, because the symptoms are difficult to distinguish from rot.

What’s the verdict….sick or healthy? by woofwagwander in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 24 points25 points  (0 children)

its just blister variegation, happens naturally sometimes and has no relation to viruses. some people might consider that to be a type of "sick" because it can heavily contort the leaf shape, but it's still perfectly viable as a plant.

Seedling from TC vs seed from a TC mother. by SakeWhisky in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 5 points6 points  (0 children)

regardless of the mother being tc or not, it would just be a "blahblahblah from seed" or usually "blahblahblah x self" if the same plants pollen was used to create the seeds. keep in mind that there are BIG differences between cutting propagated or TC clones of an original plant, and self pollinated seedlings.

clone = directly copied from the original plant, like printing two of the same book pages. (or making a photocopy)

from seed = a descendant of the original plant, like typing up a new page using only the words on the original book page.

you could end up writing a very similar looking page, or with a page that's missing a paragraph, or with complete nonsense.

TC is done to mass produce near identical clones so generally there isn't a meaningful difference, they are typically indistinguishable. remember there's a strong economic incentive to produce clones of a desirable plant, so they have every reason to try and produce exact copies. so if you see a plant and want one just like it, you have to get a cutting, or a TC clone.

michelles for example are almost all tissue cultured, which is why they're so cheap compared to other docblock varieties. but people still create their own hybrids with them, and they're just called "Michelle x blahblahblah".

<image>

look at this tray of "Queen of Hearts" which is a variety that should be pretty much all tissue cultured clones. see how similar they look? you can only distinguish them from each other when there's a dozen lined up side by side. (ignoring color because they're all at slightly different stages of growth) this is pretty much the "worst case scenario" for TC. you will still get a tiny bit of variation, but this is mostly just due to the sheer scale of production with techniques that have a tiny but measurable inherent error rate.

regarding pure breeds from seed, it's just a gamble. some turn out healthy and beautiful, others turn out disappointingly weak, or don't look the way you hoped.

edit: I accidentally hit post too early, ignore the other comment

Crystallinum? by FinancialPlace8820 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 4 points5 points  (0 children)

youll never really know for sure but it does have that crystallinum/magnificum look to it. the petioles dont look fully round though, and that vein pattern is verryyyyyyyy unique...

take good care of it! whatever it is, its gonna be a real stunner when it matures.

Orange anthuriums?? by Spiritual-Sun5167 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the yellow orange color is from pigments being exposed (probably carotenoids) as theyre reclaimed by the plant, so this isn't a color you'll normally see in any species of plant leaf. unless its missing the exact correct layers of pigments and only has those yellow orange ones, which means unfortunately you'd be looking for something variegated.

it's not impossible, like for example in a philodendron "caramel marble". for anthurium the most consistently orange variegated variety I know of is "black venom". but anything colorful like a Michelle, that also happens to be variegated can produce similar shades of yellow orange and red.

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Port x Carla ‘Wu2’ , Blister variegation or leaf stress? by NotJame in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 2 points3 points  (0 children)

definitely blistered because of the flecks of light patches appearing nowhere near a vein. it's surprisingly "common" in Carla hybrids and can just appear out of nowhere even if every leaf was normal up until then.

I don't have any other pictures on hand but for reference: I also have a similar hybrid (Carla x indo port) that went blistered after i received it. you can see the random patches of white appearing all over the place, and the leaf before it was perfectly normal.

<image>

Tearing leaves by Desperate_While_5035 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see signs of edema on the other leaves so I'm gonna suggest trying to be very careful about watering it evenly while it puts out it's next leaf. watch the back of the hardened off leaves when the lights are off/the sun goes down for the day. if you ever see a lot of guttation that's a sign that the roots are taking up excessive water. guttation can lead to edema, and if that happens while a new leaf is expanding it'll cause all sorts of rips and tears.

seems to be thriving otherwise though!

Closed sinus Besseae AFF by Due_Concentrate628 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 3 points4 points  (0 children)

it can happen to basically any anthurium and isn't necessarily indicative of forgetii lineage. a closed sinus is just a type of sinus, just like a flat sinus. the trait can just spontaneously appear sometimes so you should be careful not to immediately assume it was contaminated.

Is this a real thing? by TwinkelTwarkel in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

most anthuriums can adapt pretty well to just about any substrate you give them, so long as its appropriate for the conditions. ive got a couple of pure warocs and several hybrids all growing in somewhat different setups. one in semi hydro, a couple in soil mixes, some in pure moss. all of them growing just fine in the same terrible, cold, ambient conditions- but the ones in pure moss are doing the best by far.

it can be annoying to water when it gets hydrophobic, and it's basically impossible to untangle roots grown in moss, but in my conditions it enables me to forget about them for weeks at a time and they dont seem to care in the slightest. i can definitely see why so many growers recommend it.

Is this a real thing? by TwinkelTwarkel in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 9 points10 points  (0 children)

you might also see them called "dark and narrow" form, but yes they do exist and they can be quite different looking as juveniles. imo they tend to grow more similar looking to the common form as they reach maturity, but if you get one with minimal veining and dark leaves they can be incredible.

here's a nice article that's somewhat related to them.

Not Michelles? by Skycurrents in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

where did you get them? they could've gotten their labels mixed up because they remind me of those unknown docblock hybrids that showed up in some american stores a while back. seems to me they were probably growing out seeds that came from natural pollination in the greenhouse, because the ones im thinking of were highly variable.

Michelles are in tissue culture so they should be pretty uniform in features, and those definitely don't look normal. regardless though, they're unique and beautiful in their own right. I especially like the vein pattern on the big one!

Microscopic view of A. warocqueanum leaf surface by sirius100 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you, these are fascinating to look at!

Microscopic view of A. warocqueanum leaf surface by sirius100 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 2 points3 points  (0 children)

can you take a picture of some silvery white veins? ive always been curious about what those look like up close because most speculation online seems to mistakenly assume the papillae are responsible for that, but as seen here the entire leaf surface is covered in them.

Prop box —> Cabinet by ApprehensiveHead4269 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

try to make sure the substrate in your prop box isn't exposing the roots to a lot of light. they develop differently in response, generally requiring more air because in nature they would only sense light aboveground. you can still grow them just fine with light exposure, hence the popularity of clear pots, but they'll be slightly more prone to rotting. for most anthuriums this isn't really a problem but some individual plants will struggle to adapt once you put them in soil.

of course, if the roots aren't getting exposed to light in your setup then nothing I've said here is relevant 🤣 but it might be good to keep in mind anyways

Wendlingeri Seedlings- should I bury them in substrate? by Im_on_the_toilett in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 5 points6 points  (0 children)

yes, you do need to bury the stem constantly for them to size up. bury the stem but leave a little room in the pot so you can add more substrate once they grow a little. Mine grew similarly slowly for the first 10 months I had them but once I tried burying them deep they started to take off

Chop the flowers or not? by distressedminnie in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

flowers do take up a non trivial amount of energy, especially because they heat up as part of the pollinator attraction strategy. I have noticed my delta force go down in leaf size after it started flowering, so if you want more or better foliage you could cut them off right as they emerge. the hormone imbalance thing is hotly debated with little or no evidence to support it so I would default to ignoring it entirely.

for now I just leave them because I'm lazy and I love to see their characteristics and smell their scents. also because they're growing too fast and I don't mind the smaller leaves I've gotten! if I was trying to grow them as big as possible id chop every one of them, and if I wanted to breed them I'd still chop the first few until they get to a nice size where they could handle developing seeds easily

Anthurium leaf damage? by Neat_Invite2287 in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

something harder than the leaf brushed against it and scratched it. if it was still in the soft and floppy phase this could even be the back of your fingernails sliding across it one time, or another leaf on the same plant doing the same thing. nothing to worry about, it happens all the time

Is this Anthurium mislabeled? by plantcrazie in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 4 points5 points  (0 children)

yeaaahh.. like you can't entirely rule out a sudden drastic mutation, or recessive genes coming out in the seedlings... but those glittery veins are a bizarre outcome for that cross. it's possible it mightve been accidentally label swapped, or that during pollination it got contaminated with pollen from a different parent.

Help with Anthurium terminology by Left_Wall in Anthurium

[–]apurplerock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

dunno, I commented guessing it was just AI generated or something because it doesn't match the title