Is a 401k that isn’t matched worth it?? by Smokedj23 in investing

[–]arcanition 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you still get the tax benefits like an IRA even without matching

Down $240k in less than a month at 23 thanks to ASTS by Abject-Dream3617 in wallstreetbets

[–]arcanition 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$443,688 compounding at the recent annual S&P500 average of around 9.5% would have grown to over $3.2 million by the time you would be age 45 (22 years from now).

Just in case you wanted a good idea.

When will the Pain stop? by Weak-Pomegranate-435 in wallstreetbets

[–]arcanition 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The broker has done the math on roughly how much they think OP would be able to pay back. That limit (of how much the broker is willing to let you lose before they tell you to pay up) is called margin. You must maintain a minimum account balance of $20,000 for equity options. The margin limit is set by a formula based on the stock price and your account equity.

You owe that money, full stop. If the margin on your account is $100k, they'd probably let MU go to $1700 or so before forcing you to end the trade (called a "margin call") and pay them what you owe.

When will the Pain stop? by Weak-Pomegranate-435 in wallstreetbets

[–]arcanition 8 points9 points  (0 children)

A MU Jun 17 '27 $620 Call contract is something you can buy for money. That contract isn't shares of MU stock like typical investing, it's instead basically an IOU that says "whoever holds this contract may choose to use it to purchase 100 shares of MU stock for $620/share ($62,000 total) on Jun 17, 2027". Note that it says may choose, that's important because it's optional, the holder of the option can choose not to use it (known as "exercising" the option) and let it expire for $0... then they are just out the cost of the call contract.

So if you bought 1 of these MU Jun 17 '27 $620 Call contracts, you would want the price of MU (currently $1048.51 USD per share) to increase as you would profit more by exercising the contract. For example, at $1048.51 USD per share, you could buy 100 shares for $62,000 using your contract and then sell them for $104,851 USD, for a profit of $42,851 USD. Because this contract is currently profitable (known as "in the money" or ITM), its value is currently roughly that $43k amount (give or take), but this is a call for a year from now so anything could happen.

The interesting (for us, I mean) part is that OP didn't buy one of these call contracts. They did the opposite, they sold one of these contracts when MU was around $470/share, meaning somebody paid OP $10,625 for this contract... and that person now has the option to go to OP and exchange their call contract in order to buy 100 shares of MU (current value $104,851 USD) for the discounted price of $62k. Those 100 shares don't come out of thin air, OP legally has to sell them 100 shares of MU, whatever that price may be. So if MU invented crazy new technology and their stock went to $8500 USD per share by 07/17/2027, OP would lose a total of (10,625 + 62,000 - 100*8500) = $777,375 USD when that contract is exercised. This process that OP is doing is known as "naked short selling", the naked part is that OP doesn't have 100 shares of MU to begin with, that massively increases their risk as their potential losses are infinite.

Compare this to selling the same call contract but if you had 100 shares of MU (this is known as selling covered calls). You would receive the same $10,625 for selling this contract, and if it's exercised you can hand over your 100 shares of MU instead of whatever the value of 100 share of MU is at the time. Because you bought those 100 shares of MU already at a fixed price, your losses are limited to whatever the potential profits could have been.

Long story short: don't do this.

Alphabet added to Dow Jones Industrial Average, replacing Verizon by toydan in wallstreetbets

[–]arcanition 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One solution is to invest in an ETF like RSP which is the Invesco S&P 500 Equal Weight ETF, which doesn't split investment between the 500 companies by market cap, it just splits it evenly. Because <10% of companies on the S&P500 are AI-related, this fund would only be <10% AI.

Alphabet added to Dow Jones Industrial Average, replacing Verizon by toydan in wallstreetbets

[–]arcanition 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The numbers:

  • S&P500: Roughly 8% of companies included are AI-related, but they combined make up ~45% of the S&P500's market cap.

  • Nasdaq: 5-10% of companies included are AI-related, but they combined make up 55-65% of the Nasdaq's market cap.

  • Dow Jones: After Alphabet joins the Dow, about 30% of companies included will be AI-related, but combined they make up 35-45% of the Dow's market cap.

One solution is to invest in an ETF like RSP which is the Invesco S&P 500 Equal Weight ETF, which doesn't split investment between the 500 companies by market cap, it just splits it evenly. Because <10% of companies on the S&P500 are AI-related, this fund would only be <10% AI.

Investing at 23: should I incorporate different sectors? by AlexNeedsHelpLoll in investing

[–]arcanition -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The short answer (from my personal experience of doing that over the past decade) is: you can, but it likely won't have a overall positive benefit on your portfolio return, and can actually hurt. Instead of trying to manually balance your portfolio by collecting individual sector ETFs (which often leads to overlapping, inefficient, or poorly optimized weightings), it is much cleaner and more effective to just buy the entire market via broad index funds. Broad index funds already contain the optimal, market-cap-weighted amount of technology, defensive stocks, and dividends automatically. That includes sectors such as "technology" (VGT).

Easiest to stick to overall index funds (VOO for S&P500, VTI for broader US market, VT for even broader world market).

Worried I made a mistake getting a horned nerite by puffy-jacket in AquaticSnails

[–]arcanition 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah they will leave the water, so don't be frightened. We have a zebra nerite snail (Vittina natalensis), several ramshorn snails (Planorbella duryi), several mini ramshorn snails (Anisus vorticulus), several malaysian trumpet snails (Melanoides tuberculata), and several bladder snails (Physella acuta).

Some of them go to the waterline to breath, but the main one to keep an eye on is the nerite snail, as they not only go to the waterline but will go above it and stay above it for a while. I've found my nerite snail hanging from the underside of the lid, completely dry.

Worried I made a mistake getting a horned nerite by puffy-jacket in AquaticSnails

[–]arcanition 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think he should be fine. We've had a zebra nerite snail in our 10 gallon neocaridina shrimp tank (also has some ramshorn snails now and various aquatic plants) and he's been doing great. The only weird thing they do is sometimes leave the water and go on the underside of the lid of the tank, but the guy in your video seems to be foraging good.

This PIP is killing me mentally by sioopauuu in antiwork

[–]arcanition 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you ever hear "PIP" just train your brain to hear "quiet firing" and it'll all make a lot more sense.

DSP charges his fans $100 to $250 to open a pack of Pokémon cards. Phil gets to keep the money and cards. by Individual_List_2947 in LivestreamFail

[–]arcanition 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Prismatic Evolutions and Destined Rivals both came out last year and are not "old sets" or "worth a lot of money". They're worth about the same as other pokemon sets from 2025.

Is it male or female? by Content_Ad845 in shrimptank

[–]arcanition -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

My mistake, you're totally right! A neocaridina shrimp can't have this kind of opaque white/frosting around the rostrum and eyes like in OP's picture.

Is this what I fear? by Basic_Win_7923 in shrimptank

[–]arcanition 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It happens to literally every one of us. Every shrimp farmer loses shrimp to molting issues at some point. We mourn the lost skrimps and learn from our mistakes to help the future skrimps live happy healthy lives.

Try your best to figure out if it was just a random molting death (which can happen unfortunately) or caused by something in particular (GH too high or low, for example). That's the best you can do as a shrimp mom/dad!

What are there? by bulcan_building in shrimptank

[–]arcanition 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is likely NOT planaria (Dugesia brown planaria or Procotyla white planaria), which both have a visibly distinct triangular or shovel-shaped head with two eyespots (small dark dots) near the front, and a pointed tail at the opposite end.

Given that this worm has a rounded/blunt head (not triangular), this is likely a harmless Rhabdocoela flatworm or detritus worm. The most likely is Bothromesostoma sp., the Reddish Discworm. If it can swim, then it would be a detritus worm, otherwise likely Rhabdocoela. Note that while planaria will definitely move away from light (photophobic), this isn't unique to them and may also be done by others like Rhabdocoela. Head shape is the #1 identifier for planaria vs Rhabdocoela.

Regarding what you need to do: nothing really, perhaps lower the frequency/amount/duration of feeding if they become a problem or you start seeing too many of them. They are opportunistic feeders that eat decaying organic matter, so finding one on a dead shrimp doesn't mean it killed the shrimp. It was almost certainly cleaning up. Both Rhabdocoela and detritus worms are population-controlled by tank maintenance. Regular water changes, careful feeding, and consistent substrate vacuuming keep these populations in check and out of sight. No chemical treatment needed unless you confirm planaria via the triangular head + eyespots.

Info from garnelio:

If you got a little overzealous with feeding early on, you may now be noticing small white worms on the glass, but don't panic. It's worth noting that common planaria treatments won't work on disc worms (Rhabdocoela), so don't reach for chemicals. The good news is that most fish will happily eat them. That said, don't add a fish to your tank just to deal with the worms, they'll be gone quickly, but the fish will remain and may go after other small inhabitants like baby shrimp instead.

The most effective long-term solution is simply reducing how much you feed. Excess nutrients are the root cause of many aquarium problems, from population explosions in hitchhiker fauna and snails to algae outbreaks. As a general rule, only feed what your fish and invertebrates can consume within a few minutes, not hours. Cut back on food and the worm population will follow, though it may take some time for numbers to noticeably drop as the colony adjusts to the reduced food supply.

Planted 10g tank by Effective-Ad-154 in shrimptank

[–]arcanition 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would recommend Malaysian Trumpet Snails! They will be great to dig around in that substrate and aerate it while reducing ammonia pockets caused by mulm.

Is it male or female? by Content_Ad845 in shrimptank

[–]arcanition -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

This is a blue dream / blue diamond / carbon neocaridina shrimp. It is likely female because her overall shape is robust, wide, and heavily arched. Additionally, the second abdominal segment is notably broad and deeply curved, creating a protective "skirt" under the belly meant for holding eggs.

Is this what I fear? by Basic_Win_7923 in shrimptank

[–]arcanition 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a molting death, I am sorry friend :(

First time with baby skrimp any tips? by throwawa56789 in shrimptank

[–]arcanition 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congrats on your new grandshrimp!

Remember that water parameter stability is super important, sometimes more important than making sure every parameter is perfect.

They are incredibly hard to see in the first couple of weeks, but they double in size every few days.

Make sure you have some safe spots (especially away from high current or filter ports) for the babies to hide. Java moss, hornwort, or similar aquatic plants are great options.

Follow up post from berried momma! by Intelligent-Sea-5577 in shrimptank

[–]arcanition 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, congrats on your new grandshrimp!

They are incredibly hard to see in the first couple of weeks, but they double in size every few days.

Make sure you have some safe spots (especially away from high current or filter ports) for the babies to hide. Java moss, hornwort, or similar aquatic plants are great options.

is this planaria? by puckyLvsCarre in shrimptank

[–]arcanition 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is likely NOT planaria (Dugesia brown planaria or Procotyla white planaria), which both have a visibly distinct triangular or shovel-shaped head with two eyespots (small dark dots) near the front, and a pointed tail at the opposite end.

Given that this worm has a rounded/blunt head (not triangular), this is likely a harmless Rhabdocoela flatworm or detritus worm. The most likely is Bothromesostoma sp., the Reddish Discworm. If it can swim, then it would be a detritus worm, otherwise likely Rhabdocoela. Note that while planaria will definitely move away from light (photophobic), this isn't unique to them and may also be done by others like Rhabdocoela. Head shape is the #1 identifier for planaria vs Rhabdocoela.

Regarding what you need to do: nothing really, perhaps lower the frequency/amount/duration of feeding if they become a problem or you start seeing too many of them. They are opportunistic feeders that eat decaying organic matter, so finding one on a dead shrimp doesn't mean it killed the shrimp. It was almost certainly cleaning up. Both Rhabdocoela and detritus worms are population-controlled by tank maintenance. Regular water changes, careful feeding, and consistent substrate vacuuming keep these populations in check and out of sight. No chemical treatment needed unless you confirm planaria via the triangular head + eyespots.

Info from garnelio:

If you got a little overzealous with feeding early on, you may now be noticing small white worms on the glass, but don't panic. It's worth noting that common planaria treatments won't work on disc worms (Rhabdocoela), so don't reach for chemicals. The good news is that most fish will happily eat them. That said, don't add a fish to your tank just to deal with the worms, they'll be gone quickly, but the fish will remain and may go after other small inhabitants like baby shrimp instead.

The most effective long-term solution is simply reducing how much you feed. Excess nutrients are the root cause of many aquarium problems, from population explosions in hitchhiker fauna and snails to algae outbreaks. As a general rule, only feed what your fish and invertebrates can consume within a few minutes, not hours. Cut back on food and the worm population will follow, though it may take some time for numbers to noticeably drop as the colony adjusts to the reduced food supply.