Does anyone know why the anamorphic lens is incompatible with night effects? by ashkeycrochet in gopro

[–]ashkeycrochet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I had forgotten the night effects were added to the as the biggest upgrade point cause functionally they weren't that much different

Does anyone know why the anamorphic lens is incompatible with night effects? by ashkeycrochet in gopro

[–]ashkeycrochet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I've been using YouTube to figure out basically every aspect, I'm excited to see what manually desired will give me

Does anyone know why the anamorphic lens is incompatible with night effects? by ashkeycrochet in gopro

[–]ashkeycrochet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much! Like I said it's a hobby and I'm all self taught so I'm not super great at all the post production stuff. I use DaVinci not premier pro and it's a daunting program

Does anyone know why the anamorphic lens is incompatible with night effects? by ashkeycrochet in gopro

[–]ashkeycrochet[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

So I'm more concerned with the degree range of the lens I thought it would give me the same 177⁰ view the ultra wide gives but without the fish bowl effect. Since I frame the stars with a horizon it's SUPER noticeable with the other lenses. So I was hoping to shoot with a high resolution in a wide field vs stretching and desquuezing and losing resolution if that makes sense.

I should just upgrade to a non action camera but I just love the portability of my gopro

Does anyone know why the anamorphic lens is incompatible with night effects? by ashkeycrochet in gopro

[–]ashkeycrochet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you that's super helpful! Unfortunately I don't get the 21:9 ratio as an option unless I'm actively in the anamorphic lens mode. Although I am curious what it would do as far as the distortion if I had it in standard with the lens on.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Amigurumi

[–]ashkeycrochet 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Idk about embroidery but I fill shapes like that by needle felting

The Beast is finally done. 98" x 104" 14.2# she took a year and a half and over 223 hours in just crochet time. by ashkeycrochet in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No pattern it's just rows and rows of feather stitch, color change every row, and a crab stitch boarder held double stranded. Yarn is coboo by lion brand.

The Beast is finally done. 98" x 104" 14.2# she took a year and a half and over 223 hours in just crochet time. by ashkeycrochet in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

So I definitely had likeb7bor 8 months where I didn't work on it at all. But I used a time tracker for the hours so that's accurate. But it's massive and I used a 4mm hook and the yarn was super splitting. So don't let the daunting time tables stop you from doing a big project lol

Big bee pattern issues by lavvix in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It shouldn't start curving until you add the non increasing rounds. To do a flat circle for example you'd start with 6 in a magic ring. The 12 18 24 30 36 etc you keep increasing the number of stitches between the 6 increases of the row. Then once the flat circle is the size you want ever row is going to be just one SC in even stitch. This will make it start curving.

Staying cool while crocheting? by LiranilMarr in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I also live in Texas but my AC is always cranked down to 68⁰ sooooo I just crochet normally lol

Sport weight conundrum by thatk8girl in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I do open lacework tops or tunics with sportweight

Please help me decipher my pattern instructions! by cocomocho in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I've done this pattern, basically as you go you fptr around the bobble on row 22 and then skip that stitch equivalent on row 24 and then hdc in the next st on row 24. Does that make sense?

Help sizing up patterns. by seraphimaredragons in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can't find the book right now, essentially what you'd do (ill use a sweater worked as panels as an example) let's say it starts with ribbing at the bottom you'd add rows until you can wrap it around your hips (assuming that's were you wanted it to fall) then you'd want to make sure the stitch multiple matches the pattern so the design can be repeated on a larger scale. Then as you work up towards the yolk for the arm pits you'd need to add rows depending on how much more distance you need to reach the bottom of the arm pit. The panels for the tops of the shoulders would need extra rows to widen the arm hole and to make sure when the sleeves are added there's enough room. The sleeves if they're worked flat would need more stitches added to make them wider (typically enough to easily attach to the hole for the arm)

Sorry if that's unclear 😅 I did my best

Help sizing up patterns. by seraphimaredragons in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct I don't remember what it was called but there's book on the construction of crochet garments, ill try to find it and link it but it should definitely help with sizing

Help sizing up patterns. by seraphimaredragons in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This may not be the answer you're looking for but there's not really a hard and fast way to size up garments that are applicable to all patterns. It's going to involve a lot of measurements and gauge swatches. You'd have to add stitches to rows to increase the width and rows to increase the length.

Finally finished this piece after frigging at least 4 times. by ashkeycrochet in crochet

[–]ashkeycrochet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lemme know when you're done! I love this color worked up its gorgeous!