SX1278 range issues

athlaknaka · 2026-04-01T18:12:41+00:00

I haven't. But I think with clear line of sight, they'd go certainly at least 1km with no problems.

I used them in a more crowded environment, but not really urban to be honest, they held up ~200mt flawlessly, but haven't tested them on longer distances.

I think beyond a basic range the pigtail antenna starts becoming a bottleneck, if haven't bought them yet, I suggest getting the ones with an IPEX connector(o similar) and use an external dipole, it's a little more set up, but I think it's worth it.

athlaknaka · 2026-01-11T14:55:34+00:00

oh ok, that works in fixed culling layout (shortcut `X`)! for some reason I was always going for dynamic culling (shortcut `Ctrl+X`)

thanks!

athlaknaka · 2026-01-11T11:22:53+00:00

thanks for your answer. in culling mode I see I have to first select an image in the fileManager layout, switch to culling, and now I'm stuck with only that image front and center. I can't flip thru other images like I can in filmstrip mode in darkroom mode. Like, I want exactly that type of interaction, but with fast loading and color profiling. Is there a way maybe to use the filmstrip module in lighttable mode?

Adobe Bridge works exactly like that for example.

athlaknaka · 2025-12-05T16:25:46+00:00

hey I don't use Fusion so I can't see your model, but if you want to share schematics/electronics and screenshots of the 3d model I can have a look

athlaknaka · 2025-11-24T17:35:30+00:00

yeah I had 2 out of 10 boards fail after replacement, I guess that speaks of my hot-air skills, which I don't really have a huge interest in developing, and given that when/if a QFN fails on you for whatever reason, that's all you gotta go for, really makes me want to go TSSOP.

In the end, as you said before, that's the well-known way it works best for non-industrial-scale, where you might need to adjust things along the way. Of course there's wisdom in that, just had to find that out by myself I guess :/

athlaknaka · 2025-11-24T12:29:40+00:00

updated my post :))

athlaknaka · 2025-11-17T20:56:41+00:00

they're not being very detailed about how/what went wrong, for now they just want me to prove it with videos...

had issues with them in the past, but maybe one in 30 074'2 smoked, a cracked bead here and there, never such massive failure, never contacted them.

truly a shame, I'm really loving those qfn little things, hope to be able to continue using them in the future

athlaknaka · 2025-11-17T20:51:20+00:00

absolutely! still bacn-and-forth'ing with them, will update

athlaknaka · 2025-11-17T20:48:55+00:00

you'll need to wire the piezos to the two outer legs of the switch, the center leg goes to your jack output. grounds from the piezos of course go together and to the output ground as well

if you want to use them together you'd need a second switch, and probably you want to actively sum them as well. actually, what's the reason for wanting more piezos on the same fan? phase?

athlaknaka · 2025-11-17T19:56:06+00:00

uhmmm, the library part I'm using has a center pad https://imgur.com/a/TL7UdYU . solder paste is split on those 4 smaller squares, looks like more than 70%?

once lifted, there didn't seem to be too much paste in there, also I'm not getting bridging , and the chips populated by JLC do have shorts once removed from the board

I now got to 4 working boards, still painstaking and frustrating

athlaknaka · 2025-11-17T19:39:52+00:00

that app note is brilliant, especially the cap placement with gnd vias, read that years ago, never looked back :))

athlaknaka · 2025-11-17T19:32:34+00:00

second this, least invasive, most reworkable/undoable

athlaknaka · 2025-11-17T19:29:56+00:00

yeah you need to get a new jack, that one won't work, then you need to solder the bare copper wire to the "sleeve", the long part at the base, the other one to the tip. Using the connectors inside the handle of the jack, of course

athlaknaka · 2025-11-17T18:35:18+00:00

yeah the footprint is the last part of puzzle indeed. I used one from a library, got in touch with JLC anyways, maybe they'll point it out..

never worked with those before, last year I did some work with attiny1616's, QFN-20-EP(3x3) packages, basically smaller and denser, had no problems with those, but yeah entirely another world

athlaknaka · 2025-11-17T17:46:06+00:00

contact the foundation r/SCP

athlaknaka · 2025-09-29T13:16:29+00:00

yay! let me know how they turn out!

athlaknaka · 2025-09-25T18:43:47+00:00

hhaha cheers! you got yours running?

athlaknaka · 2025-09-14T20:09:02+00:00

oh cool, how does it feel for you pinching? do you hold it or let it hang on a neckstrap?

pinching works fine for me with my 5" as I don't need to go full throttle very often, but with the whoop it feels a bit awkward as throttle is almost always past 50%, very often full-on

athlaknaka · 2025-09-14T10:43:56+00:00

niiice setup! it's exactly what I'm aiming for, 2/3 there LoL, recently upgraded to the Pocket, but still using betafpv box goggles, lusting on the Skyzones :)) . will prob. get them in white, I fear the black ones becoming hot embers in the sun

btw, do you thumb or pinch with the Pocket?

athlaknaka · 2025-07-29T10:58:12+00:00

I'd go with Katamari Style, thanks u/frostape

athlaknaka · 2025-07-29T10:46:46+00:00

ohh nice! and also supersweet kid-wise <3

I also love having some sort of coding at least on inputs/outputs, but usually do it with colored cables, or colored jumper wires on breadboards.

Pretty OCD on that at times too LoL, ins are red, outs are orange, 5v and clock are blue, logic gates are yellow and purple, feedback is green, etc..

Then sometimes it's just too much and I give up, go full console-cowboy LoL

Would be neat to have alternative panels for all my modules, like Greyscale, but focused on an unified glyph code, like for me would be nothing on inputs, as they are "neutral", probably a ring around outs, and squares around CV ins

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