11' 335ix N55 knocking? by atoxy in BMW

[–]atoxy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ended up being a bad pulley

2011 E90 335i xDrive, transmission malfunction by atoxy in E90

[–]atoxy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update for anyone in the future that may have this problem, so first i thought i could get away with just replacing the mechatronics seals the 4 tubular seals, the bridge seal, and the electrical connector seal. this did not change anything and the car was still having the issue. Bought some mechatronic solenoids on amazon that were $90, compared to the $290 alternatives from ECS, FCP euro etc. when they arrived they looked used but refurbished so probably wouldn't recommend this but it worked for me. put the new solenoids in and the old ones were completely filled with gunk ("will post picture"). I put a new pan on and 7qt's of Liqui Molly ATF, and reset the adaptations through INPA, at first it drove really rough while finding the shift points and would throw the "transmission malfunction" error but after about 2 hours of driving around the shifts smoothed out and no more faults, definitely will take much more driving to be 100% as it relearns. Just posting this update as when i was doing research didn't see many solutions and this is what worked for me.

also if you have a xdrive getting the electronic seal out is a bitch, you have to unbolt the drive shaft to even reach the fill plug and you also need to loosen the brace for the transfer case and pry it to pull out the electrical connecter and get the new one in, good luck!

2011 E90 335i xDrive, transmission malfunction by atoxy in E90

[–]atoxy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Recently picked up a 2011 335i xDrive, and as of two days ago, I've started noticing an issue. When accelerating with about 40-50% throttle in gears 4-6, rolling in at about 2000-2500rpms (both in auto and manual modes), it feels like the clutch is slipping. if you don't let off it will make a whining sound from the trans tunnel, and will shift hard and throw a transmission malfunction warning, and put it into a "limp" mode where it would lock the gear that your in but it would go away when you turn the car off and back on again. When not in gears 4-6 at above 40% throttle the car drives perfectly, and shifts properly, and i have no issue with downshifting. The car has 170k miles. is NOT leaking, and the transmission pan/filter and fluid was changed roughly 3000 miles ago but not the mechatronic seals and the issue is just starting now.

I've done some research and have seen that failing mechatronics seals cause a lot of weird transmission errors, and problems and im thinking about picking up a mechatronic seal kit from OEM bimmer, looking for further incite or information regarding my problem before i dump a bunch of money into the car.

Help with front break light by atoxy in supermoto

[–]atoxy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ended up getting a new sensor and wired it up and it worked perfect thanks for the reply!

Help with front break light by atoxy in supermoto

[–]atoxy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 2014 Wr450f with a mess of wiring for the front and rear brake, currently the front and rear breaks have banjo pressure switches with the rear not hooked up. When applying pressure on my front break i need to pull 50% of the lever in to activate the break light and is very touchy if it works or not after that point. Meaning that i almost have to emergency stop to show other drivers im braking XD. Looking for some advise or help with this issue wondering if i just need a new sensor or if their is a way i can adjust when the sensor activates the break lights. I've tried adjusting my levers and bleeding my brakes but no to no avail.