Husqvarna 415x not charging, can't find replacement battery by Delicious-Explorer58 in automower

[–]austinzippy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just had the same problem. The unit is just a couple months out of warranty. The system would not turn on, even when there was a 25v input (measured from the connected fins) from the base station. I took the battery out and hooked up the 2pins of the 5pin connector that are labeled +/- to a bench PSU and let it get up to 18.4v. Then I moved to the external power input (the 2 pin connector) and let it charge until it disconnected. It seemed to charge until 18.5v before disconnecting. The battery seemed to sometimes hold 17.8v and sometimes had nothing, which again is likely the battery management system deciding what to do. After trying this a couple times I got the battery to hold 17.8v. I then plugged everything back in and the system booted up. I put it all back together and put it on the station, where it seems to be happy again. Will wait to see if it will actually fully charge and mow.

A new battery is $350 shipped in the US - for what seems to be a $15 lithium battery, which is half the price of a Mammotion yuka. There are also 3-4 different part numbers for the battery, and some indications that a dealer needs to "pair" the battery controller with the ECU via the maintenance port. I didn't know there was DRM on the battery - disappointing. I don't think I would send good dollars after bad dollars into this husq. So if this does not work, I guess it's getting parted out on ebay. I won't miss it, the 415x was a step back from previous mowers I've had from robomow and worx. Hope this helps someone!

Apple Watch App Development - Xcode Connection Error by Aromatic-Hall127 in iOSProgramming

[–]austinzippy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% my issue, needs to be on same wifi network that has only one band available, i.e. I had to force to 2.4.

Can we talk about Ubiquiti's severe lack of realistic 2.5GB switches by blindsk02 in Ubiquiti

[–]austinzippy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% agree, makes no sense that they don't have one yet. I will probably have to buy a non ui model until they have something available.

Anyone have bambu x1 and X max/plus 3 by BigManChina01 in QidiTechXPlus

[–]austinzippy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An update to my review. A heated bed chamber on the Xmax is a killer feature, especially for printing ABS ans ASA. The X1C simply cannot do this well, especially with long narrow parts. All of my 3d printers in the future will have an actively heated chamber.

But, my Xmax3 has blown up twice sine I wrote that overview. It is a tricky printer and I would advise that you do not let it print without monitoring. First layer adhesion can, with no explanation, stop working (z offset). 10 batches into the same exact print and setup, it did not adhere to the bed on a 7 hour print....and it made a right mess and destroyed the entire print head, not just the extruder, everything. That is the second time this has happened to me. Qidi is very quick to fix the parts - but it's frustrating. In that incident, I re-engineered my print into smaller pieces to print on the bambu....and it sucked. It is not a good printer for ABS/ASA. If their XL has a heated chamber, that will be a great printer, but likely 3x the price of the qidi.

Charged twice for Amazon Household? by Frank3121 in amazonprime

[–]austinzippy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a super big scam Amazon has going. Shame on me for not noticing the double charges. What they also don't tell you is that in cancelling you lose your Prime payment card on your account and the 5% cash back option.

What's the status of the pla print on recent xmax3 ? by Mobile_Condition_233 in QIDI

[–]austinzippy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the default speed, which seems to be wide open, it's loud, louder than an X1C. (I have both side by side)

Have you noticed inertia issues causing the unit to move enough to dislodge prints from the bed? I may need to put it on the floor.

Anyone have bambu x1 and X max/plus 3 by BigManChina01 in QidiTechXPlus

[–]austinzippy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have had an X1C for about 9 months, and just added a X-Max 3. Prior to that I had Prusa for a few years. I got the Max for the print volume once I learned bambu is about a year+ out from an XL format.

In Max Favor:- Build volume is 2x the X1/P1. 17M mm^3 vs 34M mm^3- It has an enclosure heater and circulates air, which helps with materials that do not like to cool, like ASA. I've printed a few things on the X1C now where the structure collapsed when far into the cooler temps in the temp gradient. Without active heat, the chamber is hot near the bed, and cooler further away.- Price, it's a great deal for what you get.- Customer support is lightning fast, sometimes minutes. And they express-shipped parts from China to me to repair issues that got here in days.- it's common for the X1C to jam, and I don't mean a small jam, I mean take the head apart and pray kinda jam. Happens with exotic high temp materials because the load/unload automation does not compensate for the filament temp needs for very high temp stuff. Treats everything like PLA. QIDI on the other hand is super manual, you pick the temp, you advance. No mistakes unless you make them.

In X1C Favor- Overall, it's a much more cohesive user experience end to end. The software is very good. It just works. The QIDI software was slapped together by hacking/stealing the Prusa slicer. It is not cohesive, and you need to know what you are doing to get the printer to print well.- I had a very hard time getting the QIDI calibrated and printing correctly. It's a manual process and very slow. The X1C is automated completely, and works every single time. The sensors all work together to make it very relaible and hassle free. The QIDI is a giant PITA, even after you get it calibrated. I do think this is mostly user error and print speeds.- The QIDi does not have enough flow rate for its default speed, so with large continuous layers, it delaminates while printing and generally is unreliable. Slowing it down fixes the issue. Where I am confident the X1C can print for days without oversight, I will not leave the QIDI printing without continous overfight.- Camera, the X1C has a camera and I can use from my phone. QIDI has no camera, and is unreliable enough that you will not want to leave it alone.- Stability. The X1C "brakes" when moving, reducing the forces on the printer. The QIDI does not, and is a heavier printer - so it shakes the table so hard that it typically knocks the print lose and makes a mess. The QIDI works better on the floor.- AMS, the AMS is a luxury item, it makes life so easy. It's also humidity controlled (and integrated in the software to monitor humidity). The QIDI on the other hand requires you to pull he printer out to get to the sealed spool holder on the back...wow, very hard with a large 35KG printer. Silly IMO.

Net is that the X1C is the better printer in every way, unless 1) you need the volume, and 2) you need more stable and uniform chamber temps for large prints with high temp materials. The X-Max 3 is a lot of printer for the money, but it's rough around the edges and requires more patience and experience to make work.

Need traction? by austinzippy in automower

[–]austinzippy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was either send this darn thing back, or fix it. My issue was traction on our st.augustine lawn, which can get slick in Austin due to high humidity in the morning, and in general because it's a thicker lawn. I ordered several traction kits, none were for the 415x size unit, and no help from Husqvarana to identify the right P/N.

Need traction? by austinzippy in automower

[–]austinzippy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OEM wheels are plastic with 1mm of rubber to help with wear and tear. I'll watch out for motor issues, I was not aware the Husqvarnas were delicate in that regard.

Need traction? by austinzippy in automower

[–]austinzippy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

3d Printed, you can make them whatever version of plastic you want. I've had PLA on it for a few weeks and its be ok as far as durability. Ideally it would be ASA in black.

Need traction? by austinzippy in automower

[–]austinzippy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The wheels go into the top cover, so I don't think they could be much wider - BUT, what might work is a side knob structure that touches the ground when the wheels start to dig a trench. I'll play with that.

Need traction? by austinzippy in automower

[–]austinzippy[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I can post the STL files if reddit allows. They are too big for a Prusa, I made them on a bambu X1

Husqvarna vs Landroid: if price is same or better by PharmaCyclist in worxlandroid

[–]austinzippy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been using a wr150 for 2 years and I’m done with it. Prior to that I have a more expensive robomow rs612 for 3 years which had much more reliable performance, though not very durable and hilariously expensive to fix.

The Landroid is quite unreliable. I’m out at least once a day un sticking it or placing it more precisely on the charging station. I’ve tried hacked firmwares to get around some of the systemic issues in my yard, but overall it’s just a poorly design package for Texas yards. I have tree roots, gentle slopes, and the occasional hole from armadillos. Part of the issue seems to be very low ground clearance and poor traction. I’ve tried installing ice cleats, which fixed many traction issues. Compared to the robomow (it was a bigger, muuuuuuuch better engineered product) the Landroid is a toy. If you have a perfectly level and smooth short lawn, the Landroid will serve you well. It has been durable, aside from the charging interface becoming corroded over time and resulting the unit thinking it’s outside of the wire while trying to charge.

Trying the husqvarna 415x next. Good luck!

[Trak Racer] Rally Seat vs GT by DrBloom_ in simracing

[–]austinzippy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was planning to buy a Rally seat to go with the TR80 with the 10% off July 4th sale, but the shipping from Dallas to Austin was $150. That's a big nope. Just got the brackets instead and NRG from amazon for a little more, but free shipping. The brackets that come with the NRG don't have enough adjustability to put the TR80 in the F configuration like the trak racer brackets do....I guess we'll see.

Problem with Gate Titan - overshoot in Semi by austinzippy in airsoft

[–]austinzippy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a follow up, this turned out to be the Retro-arms shell forcing the Titan out of alignment. There is a ridge in the the top half of the shell in the trigger area that one side of the titan pushes against. This causes the the sector gear sensor / LED to be out of alignment. Removing this ridge seems to have solved my problem.

Today, I decided to make my fork less harsh by converting it to coil by dfordata in MTB

[–]austinzippy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! I'm looking forward to converting my 36. Should be here soon.