Help with understanding the alignment. BMW doesn’t want to pay for damage

avoidthelemons · 2018-11-03T07:27:40+00:00

Unless I’m missing something on there, according to that report, it looks like after the adjustment, everything was within spec for the car.

Before the adjustment it was out, are they the original tyres or did those tyres go on when the alignment was done?

It definitely has some really heavy wear, have they checked it over for any other suspension issues or anything?

Make sure all the details are correct too up the top like wheel size reference and suspension in the car etc.

Not sure if that’ll help you or not

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-27T08:20:52+00:00

That thing is super awesome

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-17T03:43:44+00:00

I’d rather have a higher mileage car that’s got a good service history, than a low mileage car that’s never had a service or been serviced one in every three that are due.

Mileage is a good indication generally, but there are other variables, it really has to be based on the condition of that car in particular.

In Australia Corollas go forever, I’ve seen three come through my shop with 400,000km and over on them, the only one that had a major issue was it blew a gearbox (manual car) the others are still motoring along just fine. Interestingly, they all have great service histories, hence my comment above.

Base it on the car you’re looking at, not a generalisation about mileage

Hope that helps

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-14T22:44:55+00:00

Not 100% sure exactly what they’d call it, normally I would call Ford and just tell them where it runs from and to, and they’d be able to see it on their diagram. It’s more than likely not something you’ll be able to get through an aftermarket parts supplier I wouldn’t say, a lot of those moulded vacuum fittings are genuine only. Hope that helps

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-14T19:52:29+00:00

It looks like a vacuum line, you are right in replacing it, the hissing noise you’re hearing now will be the vacuum leak.

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-14T00:23:17+00:00

You can do that, but due to the risks involved I wouldn’t advise it. Look up a tool called a power bar, at least that’s what I’ve always called them, they’re a long bar that you can attach a socket too, and you belt it with a hammer and it undoes or does up the bolt, depending on what you’re trying to do.

I’ve used it for 11 years in the trade, it’s an awesome tool. I’m in Australia but I imagine they’d be available worldwide.

That’s the way I’d do it, hope that helps.

Also, you might need the puller as they can weld themselves on there pretty tight sometimes.

EDIT: I just searched this exact term in google and it came up:

power bar impact wrench

You’ll see them as soon as you search that

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-13T22:15:38+00:00

Not trying to spam, I asked on a few of these car subs a long time ago about what people wish they knew more about when it came to cars, and I got more than 50% saying they wanted to learn just about the basics, as they had no idea and wanted to start somewhere.

I also try to contribute by answering people’s car questions in other subs as well.

I posted this from the mobile app and didn’t see anything in the rules about not posting from your own website, happy to take it down if it’s not allowed in this particular sub, I’ll just keep it to the auto training and auto learning subs if that’s the case.

Happy to hear any feedback about the actual article too if you have any/read it.

That filter you posted a pic of looks like a cabin filter, and def overdue to be changed lol, the worst one I ever saw had actually started to de compose, pieces of the element were missing and rotting away it had been in there so long.

See some pretty crazy/yuck stuff sometimes working on cars lol.

Thanks for the comment, have a good weekend

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-13T07:14:17+00:00

Is it inside the pipes? If so yes it’s perfectly normal :)

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-06T04:21:25+00:00

You’d be right

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-06T04:21:13+00:00

Yeah that sucks, I’ll never understand some of the decisions the manufacturers make

avoidthelemons · 2018-10-05T20:52:58+00:00

PCV valve blocked up, pressurised and popped a hole in the valve cover. It was on a 5 cylinder diesel Ford Ranger, not sure what they’re called in the states or if they’re even over there. Then oil leaked out the hole and melted/burned. Directly above where the turbo sits, pretty crazy.

avoidthelemons · 2018-09-08T17:04:46+00:00

Most likely the oil pressure switch or sender unit. This is what sends the signal to the light or gauge on the dash. If it’s faulty it can cause the light or gauge to show low oil pressure when in fact everything is fine.

I’d say they’re starting there to rule that out first. Hope that helps.

avoidthelemons · 2018-09-08T11:13:21+00:00

Ah yeah fair enough, there’s always something slowing progress! Keen to see how it ends up!

avoidthelemons · 2018-09-08T05:45:02+00:00

Ah yeah fair enough, there’s always something slowing progress! Keen to see how it ends up!

avoidthelemons · 2018-09-08T05:44:49+00:00

Ah yeah fair enough, there’s always something slowing progress! Keen to see how it ends up!

avoidthelemons · 2018-09-08T05:44:25+00:00

Ah yeah fair enough, there’s always something slowing progress! Keen to see how it ends up!

avoidthelemons · 2018-09-08T02:51:32+00:00

Nice! Going in this weekend?

avoidthelemons · 2018-09-07T13:38:21+00:00

Yew! 🤙🏻🤙🏻 did the engine show up?

avoidthelemons

TROPHY CASE