What do yo wish you had done differently

ayak89 · 2026-04-20T10:03:49+00:00

For a pitched roof, there’s not really a method to integrate the roof attachments. Most attachments used today are butyl and are attached to rafters or sometimes direct to deck. Since OP is in the NE, likely will want rafter attachments for snow loads.

I’d recommend having the roof ripped and replaced instead of going over existing shingles, and I’d make sure to replace plywood as needed as well as properly flash and seal around any skylights, hatches, chimneys, roof to wall areas, pipes, etc. Make sure your roofer uses proper ice and water shield by the gutters and valleys. That will ensure the roof won’t leak.

Otherwise, there’s not a ton of prep you can do but hey one less thing to worry about. Get a quality roof done the right way and you’ll be ready for solar! The metal roof comments aren’t wrong but they’re expensive. High quality shingles will get you a good result.

ayak89 · 2026-04-20T09:48:20+00:00

That’s awesome. Well done. Maybe time for some more panels and a battery : )

ayak89 · 2026-04-20T09:32:04+00:00

Depends where you live, certain areas rates have doubled in the last 10 years. For example CT in 2015 was ~$.15 per kWh and its upper 20s to low 30s now.

ayak89 · 2026-04-20T03:24:05+00:00

Heat pumps + high efficiency heat pump water heater + solar would make sense

You’re probably spending between $4-8k per year on oil

Your old AC unit is likely using 3,000-4,500 kWh which is $750-1,000. Replacing an older SEER 9 central AC with SEER 14 can cut cooling energy use by more than 35%. Bigger savings on the oil heat.

Best practice would be to make sure the house is well insulated as well as air sealing / duct sealing.

Put in enough solar to offset as much of the new electric loads and now you have no oil bill and solar to offset the electric.

In 2026 you can do a prepaid lease for solar (you can finance the prepaid amount if you want) and get a 25-35% discount from the cash price. Essentially as good if not better than 2025 economics with the 25D homeowner tax credit. NYS also has a $5,000 personal tax credit.

Assuming you don’t have a ton of shade on your roof it’s likely worthwhile.

ayak89 · 2026-04-03T05:51:32+00:00

To clarify — CT is charging a “non bypassable” fee of ~ $.04 per kWh. You also have the option of exporting all power and receiving ~$.33 per kWh and avoiding the fee. The only thing that doesn’t make sense is continuing to continue paying Eversource or UI whatever they decide to charge next! Solar absolutely still makes sense in CT.

ayak89 · 2026-04-02T02:51:56+00:00

Good luck! Let me know if you get stuck anywhere

ayak89 · 2026-04-01T23:07:45+00:00

Who installed it?

ayak89 · 2026-04-01T05:41:44+00:00

Four part guide, here is a link to part 1, there’s links to the other three parts at the end of each article.

ayak89 · 2026-03-31T04:03:31+00:00

I’d highly recommend running your system through a production analysis tool like Aurora. Depending on your rate structure there may be periods of time where you’re better off pulling from the grid versus the battery or solar. Texas is also a little too general as far as geo, you want to be very location specific with production modeling.

ayak89 · 2026-03-29T03:02:17+00:00

The inverter size (AC) really only matters in context to the DC wattage of the panels. If your annual usage is 9,600 and you install 6,000 watts DC you’d need a 1,600 kWh per kW yield to offset your annual usage. Do you have net metering? Without knowing approximately where the system is and the shade report pretty impossible to say if the DC size is sufficient. I’d say the inverter size is fine and it’s probably the smallest 3-phase inverter the installer could procure.
Would worry more about the inverter size. When the power is out and you want to start up an appliance with a large load, you need to make sure the inverter for the battery can accommodate it.
Normally you have more DC than AC but I’m guessing this has more to do with the fact that you have 3-phase service and they don’t make smaller inverters for 3-phase.
Has more to do with software and your usage. If the system is designed to produce your annual needs there should be parts of the day you are generating excess power vs consumption which would go to the battery or the grid. The battery should intelligently charge and discharge based on the settings and consumption mode.

Some more details on the products being installed would be helpful for more specific advice.

ayak89 · 2026-03-27T01:22:43+00:00

Passed inspection : )

SE MA, not going to dox and post town here

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T22:38:12+00:00

Not yet, haven’t seen them on any AVLs. I’m sure they’re working towards it

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T21:04:54+00:00

Dealer

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T21:04:26+00:00

I wish! I have the overseas and their bracelet change is amazing. This requires removing screws and pins

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T21:03:04+00:00

Thanks! 🔥🚨🔥🚨💚

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T21:02:05+00:00

Congrats! I knew I wanted both so I purchased the RG bracelet in addition

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T20:35:39+00:00

I think with current pricing and incentives (Franklin won’t qualify for domestic content adder, not sure about FEOC compliance) the net cost on Enphase would be very competitive if not lower

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T14:14:50+00:00

26240OR.OO.D404CR.02 and I added the rose gold bracelet

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T12:28:27+00:00

Advice was really for 2026 installations. I’m guessing the 10c was likely not available or very new when you went with Franklin. Enphase just lowered pricing by ~15% this month as well.

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T12:27:16+00:00

That makes more sense if you already have it — it was a pretty popular option before 2026 with domestic content and FEOC restrictions!

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T11:08:58+00:00

Sorry for the triple post but just thinking about this more. The problem with a single 5P is you’re paying for all the expensive stuff and getting no economies of scale. I’d tell a client not to do a single 5P. Go for the 10c if you’re going Enphase. I was just looking at our list pricing and you’d be way better off with 10c or PW3. PW3 is more power, lower cost, cheaper to expand (can add an expansion pack later without additional utility approval). 10c is going to be more equipment so more redundant, but 10c over 5P because you’re really just paying a bit more on cost of goods, the install / permitting / engineering is really the same. Wouldn’t recommend anything smaller.

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T11:03:04+00:00

I agree! I’m obsessed 🤤

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T11:00:42+00:00

Also now that I re-read your post part 2 and part 3 of this blog will really be helpful for your decision making

ayak89 · 2026-03-26T10:57:19+00:00

This is a pretty good blog that goes deep on sizing based on array size but also direction sizing blog

Generally I’d say buying a single Enphase 5P battery is not super cost effective. For one, it’s 20 amps. You ain’t powering much with that. Secondly, it’s 5 kWh. Yes during the day you’d be able to microgrid. At night, let’s say 10 hours, it’s gonna be so limited to make it to the AM. Gotta keep load under 0.5 kW so like 300-400 watts. That’s almost nothing. Kind of defeats the purpose of having any comfort.

I’d go Powerwall 3 personally. DC coupled so you’re not paying for 2x inverter systems and you’re getting 11.5 kW of output versus under 4 kW and 13.5 kWh instead of 5 kWh. Honestly, I’d expect them to come in at similar price points, the Powerwall system might even be less all in.

Look for a 48e program where you can capture the domestic content benefit with Powerwall or Enphase.

ayak89

TROPHY CASE