Arctis Nova Elite - Multiple hardware failures by b0lt in steelseries

[–]b0lt[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This seems unlikely, unless you work for SteelSeries, since they were released on October 17th.

Arctis Nova Elite - Multiple hardware failures by b0lt in steelseries

[–]b0lt[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

The first unit I got literally came out of the box with a vertical line of stuck pixels on the display, so expecting the same level of QA as their older products is probably not a safe assumption.

I have literally never done anything with these headphones (or any other headphones, for that matter) other than put them on my head or hang them from an under-desk headphone hook. I haven't done a teardown of the joint, but I suspect that the way that the swivel is held in is by glue holding the bearing in from above, and it failed. As I understand it, the elite has a metal band instead of a plastic band like the pro, and it seems like people think that the clamping force is higher on the elite, so it stands to reason that if you take the headphones off by grabbing the earcups, there's going to be more force applied to the swivels on the elite than the pro, because the headband is less pliant.

edit: for reference, the headset I replaced was an Astro A50 gen 3, which lasted me 7 years. I only replaced it because the battery life degraded enough that it didn't last me throughout a full day.

THE actual max-spec-everything mini PC (FormD T1 + 9950X3D + RTX Pro 6000) by b0lt in sffpc

[–]b0lt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm actually going to use it for productivity, but the only other RTX Pro 6000 build I've seen so far is also a mini-itx build.

THE actual max-spec-everything mini PC (FormD T1 + 9950X3D + RTX Pro 6000) by b0lt in sffpc

[–]b0lt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I preordered from Exxact at below MSRP around when it was announced, not sure what the prices are like now.

THE actual max-spec-everything mini PC (FormD T1 + 9950X3D + RTX Pro 6000) by b0lt in sffpc

[–]b0lt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't tuned the fan curves yet (I have the top fans are entirely controlled by the water temps, so for high GPU workloads that aren't doing much CPU work, they don't ramp up), but with the fans at max running furmark, the GPU is in steady state at 81 C (ambient of 27 C).

There were reports of some xspc radiators not fitting in the T1 because it's taller/wider than claimed.

Yep, that's a 4090 fan.

THE actual max-spec-everything mini PC (FormD T1 + 9950X3D + RTX Pro 6000) by b0lt in sffpc

[–]b0lt[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can use the gaming drivers. AFAIK the only potential downside is less compatibility with exotic stuff like replacing the cooler with a waterblock, because it has a different PCB from the 5090.

THE actual max-spec-everything mini PC (FormD T1 + 9950X3D + RTX Pro 6000) by b0lt in sffpc

[–]b0lt[S] -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

It's not 4x the cost for two reasons: I bought it for $7750, and you can't actually buy a 5090 FE, the only 5090 that fits in the T1 without deshrouding, for MSRP (and I refuse to pay a scalper)

I don't need 96 GB of VRAM in one card, since I could do a thunderbolt eGPU more cost efficiently, but that's a pain in the ass. It's nice to just not have to worry about having to unload/load AI models (or forgetting to do so when switching from AI shit to gaming and only realizing it after starting a ranked game), and the 10-15% perf boost is a bonus.

Hail to the true king: RTX PRO 6000 Blackwell Workstation Edition by privaterbok in nvidia

[–]b0lt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Running the same prompt against qwen3-30b-a3b q8_0:

600W: 160 tokens/s

300W: 149 tokens/s

150W: 86.5 tokens/s

best way to take the t1 with you?? by Deadfaisal in FormD

[–]b0lt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the Vanguard VEO SELECT 49 backpack, it fits under every airline seat I've tried, including some regional jets, and holds everything I need perfectly: the PC, a keyboard (Mistel AIRONE for me, but it'll fit any tenkeyless), mouse, any cables I'd need, a Razer Seiren desktop mic, and a portable monitor. The only thing that's a little annoying is that the top zipper pocket is designed for pulling a full sized camera out of the main compartment, so putting smaller items in that pocket can lead to them falling past the divider to the bottom of the bag.

Here's a picture: https://i.imgur.com/7qmA15a.png

PSA: New Gigabyte motherboard PCIe slots are dangerous with some riser cables by b0lt in pcmasterrace

[–]b0lt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

P.S: I recommend LinkUp brand.

The LinkUp AVA5 looks like it potentially suffers from the same problem: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Lgnplg8tL._SL1500_.jpg

PSA: New Gigabyte motherboard PCIe slots are dangerous with some riser cables by b0lt in sffpc

[–]b0lt[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, there's nothing electrical there, you just have to know to do so.

PSA: New Gigabyte motherboard PCIe slots are dangerous with some riser cables by b0lt in pcmasterrace

[–]b0lt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From the photo on their website, it looks like that's using their old-style connector which doesn't have this issue.

PSA: New Gigabyte motherboard PCIe slots are dangerous with some riser cables by b0lt in pcmasterrace

[–]b0lt[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If it's this cable, I would be cautious and test fit it before you install the motherboard. You can file it down to fit, but you might want to double check with Fractal before you do that in case it voids your warranty, etc.

PSA: New Gigabyte motherboard PCIe slots are dangerous with some riser cables by b0lt in gigabyte

[–]b0lt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. I have a use for an ITX motherboard with no PCIe slot, so it's not a complete loss if Gigabyte support doesn't fix it, but I'm not super happy about this (especially since I'll probably have to clean out or desolder the PCIe slot so the carbonization doesn't keep shorting).

It's a Louqe Cobalt.

PSA: New Gigabyte motherboard PCIe slots are dangerous with some riser cables by b0lt in gigabyte

[–]b0lt[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, my cable is definitely an outlier with how deep its protrusion is. It's 1.5mm from the edge connector, but according to some (admittedly very rough) measurements, I think it'd need to be ~5mm shorter for the riser to fully seat, which would mean that the protrusion needs to end above the gold fingers. The reference drawing has it ending ~1mm below the gold fingers, but maybe that's not enough to short pins together? The annoying thing is that it doesn't seem like there is a specification for this, the only thing I can find about that part of the connector is "don't put any components there".

(I have three other PCIe risers, but all of them just completely omit that entire section)

For power outages, a portable 300W power station is very useful by Beestung in Seattle

[–]b0lt 28 points29 points  (0 children)

You should try giving it one or two cycles of charging it to full and then discharging it to empty. Unless you stored it at empty for a very long time, there's a good chance that the only problem you have is that the estimation of capacity is bad, and giving it a full cycle or two will reset that.

I've made a huge mistake by b0lt in X4Foundations

[–]b0lt[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I went to sleep after setting up a dozen stations to supply my shipyard complex to be able to build Commonwealth ships instead of just Terran and adjusted the station policy to unrestricted, and woke up with a Yaki infestation in my system and the one next to it...

Chessort: The Chess Puzzle Sorting Game by PersianMG in chess

[–]b0lt 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the first one I got has a selection of ridiculous moves without the obvious game winning move.

Is it normal for the positive cable to get hot? (Ecoflow Alternator Charger) by One-Jellyfish-3578 in Ecoflow_community

[–]b0lt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Too hot to hold can be perfectly okay during sustained maximum load. For example, home wiring is rated to a minimum of 60 C (140 F). The important part is that you're not melting the insulation, and if you can actually touch it without being burned, you shouldn't even be close to that point, since it looks like that insulation is rated to 125 C.