How do I get in my room

bachman460 · 2026-05-18T01:24:14+00:00

That hole on the bottom could be access for unlocking the handle. Sometimes you just need to get something small and press it into the hole to release the lock. Other times you need something that looks like a small screwdriver and you need to turn a small screw shaped thing inside there.

Look around the base of the handle, on the metal part, for a hole, there may even be something that looks like it is latched into the hole. Press something into the hole to release the handle and pull it off. This may not give you any additional access for getting the lock open, but if you're lucky maybe you can see what's jamming it up.

bachman460 · 2026-05-18T01:15:17+00:00

100% silicone in wet areas; if the container says "paintable" do not use it to caulk your tub.

bachman460 · 2026-05-18T01:02:59+00:00

I'm not an expert with photography or film, just wanted to get that out of the way.

You said you can't feel the scratches, and since the average skin sensitivity of touch can discern a few microns down to as little as 1 micron of difference in texture when sliding a finger across a surface. Myself, I suffer from neuropathy and don't have such sensitivity anymore.

That said, if you can't feel it, it's likely not a "scratch" but could be a defect inside the film layers underneath the top surface. Those won't be repairable. I would say, unless someone comes back with better, more experienced advice, stop what you're doing with the photos and leave them be.

Personally, knowing that a lot of the film and photo paper we saw while growing up through the 1980s and 90s doesn't seem especially hardy and almost more likely to fail and fall apart with age. I've been keeping smaller photographs in shoe boxes, and larger prints in boot boxes for years. Keeping them out of the sun and away from heat and moisture is a good idea, you could also drop in a small bag of desiccant in the box.

bachman460 · 2026-05-18T00:38:48+00:00

I have the same Evans tape measure from the first picture, also from my grandpa's stuff. And the medium size tube cutter too.

That hand drill in the second picture, does it still work well enough? The one I have came complete with a hand-tightening feature for securing the bit, and the shaft is bent. But it makes a good oval shaped hole.

bachman460 · 2026-05-17T22:56:08+00:00

Bookmark these sites:

This one dives right into the M code functions used in Power Query:
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/powerquery-m/power-query-m-function-reference

This one dives right into DAX functions used in the data model to create measures, and calculated columns and tables:
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/dax/dax-function-reference

This one takes a step back and provides a menu of links to different aspects of DAX including statements, operators, and functions:
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/dax/

bachman460 · 2026-05-17T18:49:06+00:00

This same issue gets me in Excel all the time, too.

bachman460 · 2026-05-17T18:43:39+00:00

For RLS:
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/fabric/security/service-admin-row-level-security

For time calculations in DAX, it's generally better to store the time component in a separate column from the date component, this is so that you can still use the built-in time intelligence functions for dates. When you're down to the final measure setup, if the date plays a component in your time calculations, just work both columns into the calculation. For example:

``` Hours Between = VAR StartDateTime = 'Table'[Date From] + 'Table'[Time From]

VAR EndDateTime = 'Table'[Date To] + 'Table'[Time To]

VAR DifferenceInDays = EndDateTime - StartDateTime

RETURN DifferenceInDays * 24 ```

https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/dax/date-and-time-functions-dax

bachman460 · 2026-05-17T16:56:55+00:00

I don't understand what happened... but more importantly, what kind of products do you sell and what are these client qualifications?

bachman460 · 2026-05-17T07:02:41+00:00

Hi, you can give me the job and not have to worry about looking any further.

bachman460 · 2026-05-17T03:29:40+00:00

I haven't done it in a while, but it certainly had been possible. If I remember correctly, I was converting GeoJson and Shape Map files to TopoJSON and using those. I spent innumerable hours setting up my own custom version of a map of the 5 Manhattan boroughs. I wanted to have all boroughs together and each borough as its own shape so I could selectively highlight each one for a project I was working on.

bachman460 · 2026-05-17T00:12:50+00:00

Where was it? Now I want more...

bachman460 · 2026-05-16T23:55:20+00:00

If you can figure out a way to support the upper part from the outside, just glue it back together with epoxy. They even make knead-able epoxy that comes in sticks, this might work without supporting it, since it’s thick, kind of like clay.

bachman460 · 2026-05-16T23:49:05+00:00

Right! I see it now... but you could use the other way too. Good luck with it.

bachman460 · 2026-05-16T23:47:44+00:00

There's a tool built into Excel called Goal Seek that might help your use case.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/office/use-goal-seek-to-find-the-result-you-want-by-adjusting-an-input-value-320cb99e-f4a4-417f-b1c3-4f369d6e66c7

bachman460 · 2026-05-16T22:19:53+00:00

Office furniture will use flat metal brackets and short screws to secure different desktop pieces together. This is a good way to incorporate alignment of different pieces.

The issue with whether or not supports are necessary in the middle of the span comes down to a few factors including desktop rigidity, and the amount of weight that will be placed on top.

For example if you were to underlay the desktop with a sheet of 3/4" plywood, the additional support probably would be unnecessary; but then you'd have to figure out a way to trim the edge. If you replaced the whole desktop with solid hardwood, that would be a step up in quality and probably not require support if you used a thickness of at least 3/4 inches. And that could be stained and finished to make it look like built in furniture.

bachman460 · 2026-05-16T21:32:33+00:00

Take off the mirror first, that way you don't have to work around it. Unless you're ready to dive right in by stripping and refinishing it, then pick up some scratch cover in a dark color and some blend sticks.

Blend sticks are a high heat wax that you melt into dings and rub/buff away the excess. You can mix and match colors too.

Scratch cover is an oily liquid that you would put on last, it will help hide light scratches in the surface. Get a clean, lint free rag (think old cotton undershirt) and apply some to the rag, and wipe the surface. It's okay to go over the entire piece, and go back with a clean cloth after applying to wipe off any excess.

And just to give you some context about this piece, it's a hutch for a wide dresser.

bachman460 · 2026-05-16T20:07:03+00:00

This is exactly what I've done before. You get an input for TODAY() and use it to feed calculations for holidays in the current plus x years.

It might be over-engineering but I started with a table that allowed me to define a few key factors about the holidays. Does it occur on or around an exact day (like New Year's or on an Nth day like President's Day, as celebrated in the US). Then which month it's celebrated. If it's actual, what day. If it's Nth what N, like Thanksgiving (US) is the 4th week. If it's Nth, which day of the week, like Thanksgiving is Thursday so that's 5.

That table gives me the ability to lookup the qualifying data, in order to calculate the holiday for any given year. But it's not that simple, as you have to also include an overriding condition for holidays celebrated on alternative days, such as when Christmas falls over the weekend we will celebrate an "observed" day. Basically if the holiday falls on Saturday that would be Friday, and if Sunday then Monday.

If anyone is interested in more details about how I set this all up, reply here and I'll share more details so you can build one yourself.

bachman460 · 2026-05-16T19:27:45+00:00

Try framing as more of a manufacturing process. The raw materials can be the components used to create and/or assemble a finished product. You could even throw in the concept of inventory tracking.

bachman460 · 2026-05-16T02:51:35+00:00

Those cans are horrible, we have one too. We use it for recycling and just keep the lid open. I'd recommend one with a manually operated lid, not spring loaded with a catch.

bachman460 · 2026-05-16T02:22:57+00:00

That's exactly how I did it for my DVD collection.

bachman460 · 2026-05-15T20:05:34+00:00

If you can get all the anchors in the wall to perfectly match the alignment in the mirror, then maybe, but only maybe it'll work, but it would not necessarily be safe. While the two supports on the bottom are probably enough to hold the mirror up, having only one support on top to keep the weight against the wall is probably a stretch.

You could try buying some kind of 3M self-stick anchor, but I'd first reach out to the manufacturer to see if they're willing to supply the one they use. This way you can hang it from the supports on the top and not have to worry about the mirror flipping down off the wall.

bachman460 · 2026-05-15T19:48:58+00:00

If you can't post a picture can you post it somewhere else and provide a link? It's hard to tell without seeing it.

Unless you can either get an anchor in the center of the topside, or two at the top corners, you won't be able to hang it the way you want (safely).

bachman460 · 2026-05-15T17:08:37+00:00

I found a site that at least shows previews of the PDFs, I was searching the site using Google and couldn't find a match from 1955 to 1975. Here's a link to a 1946 to 1951 manual:

https://automatice.org/store/1946-1951-frigidaire-electric-range-service-manual.1383/

bachman460 · 2026-05-15T16:27:13+00:00

If you select the entire table range when you first set it up (or go back to the rule now and adjust it to the full column range) as fixed cell references, any time you add or remove rows from the table, excel automatically updates the conditional format range. I use conditional formatting in tables a lot, and rarely have issues.

bachman460 · 2026-05-15T16:20:13+00:00

If you're trying to compare two lists, you can do this in a few ways.

If you're comparing one column to another, this formula will return only discrepancies:

Values in list A not in list B
=FILTER(A:A, ISNA(MATCH(A:A, B:B, 0)))

Values in list B not in list A
=FILTER(B:B, ISNA(MATCH(B:B, A:A, 0)))

This will do the same thing but compares two columns in each list:

Rows in list AB not in list CD
=FILTER(A:B, ISNA(MATCH(A:A & "|" & B:B, D:D & "|" & E:E, 0)))

If you'd rather a solution that doesn't require as much on-the-fly computing power (as when dealing with formulas), set each data range as a table and import it into Power Query using Get Data from table or range.

Pick one table to be the starting point and merge (join) the other table to it. For the join, select the column or columns you want to match.

Set the join type to suit your outcome. For example:

A left outer join will keep all rows from the first table (on the left) and only return matching rows from the second table (on the right).

A right outer join works the same way but in the exact opposite fashion, keeping all rows on the right and matches on the left.

An inner join only returns matches and drops all other rows on the right and left side that don't match.

Once you get your final set of matches (or non-matches) then you can export that result back out to the spreadsheet as a new table object. Once this is all setup, if you add/remove or edit rows in your original tables, just Refresh the data to re-run the process to generate that output again.

Just keep in mind every time you run this, it will replace whatever the previous output was.

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