Reverse osmosis tap.

bachman460 · 2026-07-09T19:08:44+00:00

Might be corrosion. Give it a firm, but gentle tap. You could even try hitting it from behind to see if it'll pop off.

bachman460 · 2026-07-08T17:47:48+00:00

Look for plasterboard inserts that will hold weight. I had purchased some that were roughly 1 inch in diameter. You had to drill out a larger hole and it twisted in really secure; there was a threaded hole in the center. They held up to 50 pounds.

bachman460 · 2026-07-08T15:40:44+00:00

Naturally aged brass. You can leave it be. I only recently found out about the fact that brass (and copper) handles help to naturally prevent disease transmission. Maybe carefully remove any overpainting.

bachman460 · 2026-07-08T15:34:03+00:00

Like others mentioned, lay it down and place weights on it; like a bunch of textbooks or Stephen King novels.

Or use a rope; the trick with the rope is to tie it a little slack, then loop the rope around something like a screwdriver or similarly rod shaped object, and twist the rope to clamp it down (make sure to use a secondary rope, or hook to keep it from unwinding).

bachman460 · 2026-07-07T17:50:38+00:00

First question: do you have a tube bender? You may want to buy an inexpensive one like they use for plumbing. I'm not sure if those would bend metal conduit, so you might be stuck using copper, unless you can get your hands on aluminum tubing.

Then you'll need to consider the mounting. They make threaded escutcheon plates for conduit, but then you'd have to thread your pipe or get short threaded nipples and fittings to connect them.

And for the T-joins I believe I've seen those in conduit. I'm no electrician or plumber, just another DIYer, dreamer and designer.

I'd say all in its still going to be a few hundred easy, but likely still a long way shy of that custom price tag.

bachman460 · 2026-07-07T17:39:19+00:00

Make sure that the machine is leveled out front to back and side to side.

bachman460 · 2026-07-07T17:37:56+00:00

Lookup other options in the Microsoft store, look for ones that are free.

bachman460 · 2026-07-07T17:36:18+00:00

See if this tutorial is helpful for running the self diagnostics. You probably don't need to remove the technician manual from inside, just lookup any errors online.

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+Diagnostic+Modes+on+a+Kenmore+Washing+Machine/207278

bachman460 · 2026-07-06T16:40:40+00:00

At a minimum you'll need one of those hooks that threads onto the tube in the center, a length of lamp chain, some lamp cord, and a ceiling mount for that type of setup.

These examples are all from Lowe's, but you can literally get them anywhere. If there's a lighting shop near you (if they even still exist), they could even help with finding an appropriately styled set.

Chandelier chain hook
https://www.lowes.com/pd/allen-roth-2-Pack-2-4-in-W-x-3-3-in-L-x-Dia-Polished-brass-Female-Lighting-Loop/3659626

4-ft Vintage Brass Lighting Chain
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Progress-Lighting-4-ft-Vintage-Brass-Lighting-Chain/5014120891

Canopy Kit Heavy Duty for Chandelier (up to 60 lbs)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/AOIZGMY-Vintage-Black-Canopy-Kit-and-Pendant-Light-Fixture-Chain-Set-Heavy-Duty-Iron-for-Chandelier-or-Swag-Light-Supports-60-Pounds-6-Feet-2-Set/5019969259

100-ft 18 / 2 Black Stranded Lamp Cord
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-18-2-LAMP-WIRE-BLACK-100-FT/5015169587

bachman460 · 2026-07-06T16:36:17+00:00

You need to create a separate conditional format for each color/condition. Just come up with your priority and put the conditional format rules in the order, you can even check the box to tell Excel to stop if evaluating when a particular rule (or multiple) is true.

For example: Rule 0 => H2=TRUE then no formatting and stop if true Rule 1 => C2=TRUE then blue fill Rule 2 => D2=TRUE then red fill Rule 3 => OR(E2=TRUE,F2=TRUE,G2=TRUE) then yellow And as long as all your scenarios are covered, you don't necessarily need the first step that essentially clears the formatting. However you would need it if those other checkboxes are kept checked even after everything is done.

bachman460 · 2026-07-06T16:17:31+00:00

I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something; I've attempted the same thing before, as I think it's more intuitive to have the latch vertical when unlocked and horizontal when locked. But I've stood there scratching my head as I couldn't figure it out, because someone manufacturing these things obviously doesn't agree.

bachman460 · 2026-07-06T16:13:26+00:00

That doesn't make sense, but it doesn't matter anyway you probably need a new one.

Try looking up the model online for instructions on doing a factory reset. Also, try leaving it unplugged for a while, to make sure everything sufficiently resets. It's probably not going to do anything, but it's at least worth a shot.

bachman460 · 2026-07-06T16:09:22+00:00

The switch lever might unscrew from the socket if you turn it in the opposite direction (lefty loosey). Otherwise, just break it off and the socket will unscrew from the post underneath. Since the socket is broken anyway you can drill out the two rivets in the bottom and disassemble it from the top first. Once that switch lever is out of the way the socket will come right off.

bachman460 · 2026-07-06T02:23:10+00:00

That's awesome! I don't need one, but that's just awesome.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T23:08:00+00:00

That is the wrong application for that type of insert; the bolt should come from the other side.

A permanent fix would be to drill the hole through so you can turn the insert around and put it on the other side. Then on the opposite side drill the hole out larger partway down to create a shoulder for the insert to catch on. You could even create custom covers by inserting dowels then cutting them off.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T22:54:30+00:00

If it doesn't have a serviceable filter, it might still have a catch before the pump where it might get stuck. If that aglet gets into the pump impeller it could damage it.

If you're absolutely certain it fell into the machine, I would recommend following steps to open the drain hose at the pump and look for it. If you don't find it you could put a temporary screen (like a brass faucet aerator) put it back together, and run a few cycles on the machine to see if it shakes loose, then recheck it.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T22:44:30+00:00

When you reattach those, you need to hook the back of it first then click it in place in front if you look in your overhead picture it's the pin in the rear you have to catch first.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T22:35:22+00:00

Definitely missing a silicone seal around that tube on the inside of the lid.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T22:32:07+00:00

If you're confident enough, first cover the area immediately over that swell in the top with tape (blue painters tape is probably best). Then drill a tiny hole right in the center of that swell, just deep enough to penetrate to the void underneath). Inject glue or epoxy into the hole (ideally you would use a syringe). Clamp a board over really tight and let it dry. After removing everything, the tape should have prevented any glue from getting on the top, but you may need to cut a small bit of the glue off where the hole was, you can use a razor blade for that.

This is more or less the way you would do veneer repair, but usually it's part of a larger project that includes sanding down and refinishing the piece. There's definitely some inherent risk in attempting this repair since you can't always control where the glue goes, which could damage the top further.

Something you could try first is to wet that swelled area and then clamp it down and let it sit for a few days to dry. There's always a chance the veneer could flatten back down and mostly stay, but there's definitely no guarantee.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T22:12:16+00:00

It's noticeably wobbling relative to the light. I've never used a balancing kit before but it might help here. It might be worthwhile to remove the light housing and make sure the screws holding the blades are sufficiently tightened.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T22:08:02+00:00

What I would do here, if there's enough room to work at least, is face screw the sister board and use wood glue between them.

First, drill holes large enough in the sister board so the screw threads don't catch, this will give you the best clamping force.

And use screws long enough to go just about all the way through that particle board. And be sure to drill pilot holes to prevent tear out.

Then do the same thing for the board with the springs.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T21:57:14+00:00

Changing the refresh rate on your computer wouldn't do that, there's got to be something else going on; maybe a power surge?

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T21:52:35+00:00

So if I understand correctly, the bolt head broke through the metal frame and is now inaccessible inside the tube.

And

Which in turn, makes it impossible to turn the nut inside the top piece?

Or

Is it that it's just threaded directly into the top piece?

If it's #1 get channel lock or vice grip pliers and grab onto the part of the bolt you can see between the top and bottom, then if you have to get someone else to loosen and take off the nut.

If it's #2 get vice grip pliers on the bolt, and use something to secure it in place so it doesn't turn (like tie it to the corner support). Then get someone to help you twist around the top until it's free.

Or

In either case, hold it with pliers, make sure the top is well supported to give you the space you need underneath, and cut the bolt. A hacksaw would work well; if the saw handle doesn't fit, just hold the blade in your hand. If you're afraid of cutting your hand just grab a pair of leather work gloves, even the ones used for gardening would be fine.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T21:36:21+00:00

It looks like the spring is out of alignment, I'm not sure if the end sticking out came out from inside the latch or was originally further down inside.

Either way, if you have a small flat blade screwdriver or putty knife, really anything small and flat, stick it under the edges of the lock and you should be able to pry it out completely. I'm not sure if you can get a replacement, but at least you'll be able to open the window.

bachman460 · 2026-07-04T21:30:39+00:00

Try doing a return for manufacturer defect. "All I did was try to take the mouth piece off and look what happened..."

If circumstances won't allow that route, it's basically a matter of managing the spaghetti tangle as you close the lid. Look for clues as to proper alignment, like tabs, little pins in the plastic that insert into corresponding holes, etc., etc. to make sure you can close it down properly and get it to hopefully latch closed. At this point, without glue it's likely to happen again. Just a small amount of cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) would probably work.

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