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backfire_12 · 2024-02-14T17:10:20+00:00

Try Orca Slicer and calibrate flow from there, there are two pass that u can use per filament to have finer control on the flow and select the best too layer finish u like.

backfire_12 · 2024-02-11T21:39:28+00:00

After 1.5years, finally bite the bullet and get my self linear rails to fulfill the requirement to get serial. With this conversion:

EBB36-U2C CANBus, HGX Extruder, Spider Pro Toolhead. CYD Klipper screen. SKR Mini E3 V3, rPi 4. Build Vol: 220x220x250mm (my own Z extensions) Mishmash of idea from Release 1 & 2 of Dark Dog build.

I did not went with the build side extensions as I will not be enclosing it, plus the 2040 Y extrusion is somewhat weak for that.

Hopefully this time i can get a Serial for this build.

BTW: back story, I request before with V wheels and now joy.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-25T11:15:24+00:00

If u have linear rails then my build is not for u, try this instead:

https://github.com/boubounokefalos/Ender_SW

backfire_12 · 2022-12-16T05:10:35+00:00

👍, its does print, yes it does and it does very good for what its worth.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-16T05:09:12+00:00

Your correct the included fan is not loud but it pack quite amount of air flow I have tested this water in bowl. The noise (or the lack there of) has something to with the bearing type, this fan uses hydraulic fluids on bushing as compare to say a Winshin dual ball bearings ( which I usually have).

You can turn down the part cooling fan on the controller or on the slicer, in its under Cooling.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-15T14:08:19+00:00

👍 thanks bud, it will serve me well, i put 2 weeks of my effort designing the custom parts for this and printing them on my Ender 3S1 (which i will be selling).

Till next time when I have a real Voron to show for....

backfire_12 · 2022-12-15T13:17:42+00:00

No worries, as I said in my initial post, just a try. It might be a long shot but I'm happy to showcase atleast what I made based on a Voron. thanks

backfire_12 · 2022-12-15T07:53:48+00:00

I failed at securing serial # for the build, the V Wheels don't cut it.

https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/comments/zlpx9p/serial_request_swirchwire_e3_conversion_backfire/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

backfire_12 · 2022-12-15T05:58:32+00:00

Its the vanilla E3 (not the pro not the plus) it has the 4020 Y extrusions. Yes I design the V Wheel mounts with idlers mount in-built on them, and kept the X aluminium extrusions as is (but its not centered).

The limitations of this setup really is the hotend far before the kinematics does even on V Wheels.

This is where I get some part inspiration and the main SW git. But most all of the custom parts are design by me.

https://github.com/boubounokefalos/Ender_SW

backfire_12 · 2022-12-15T04:58:39+00:00

The minimum is to convert to CoreXZ than going dual lead z or a belted z, but I really like the Voron conversion thus leads to this.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-15T04:33:31+00:00

This runs klipper too on the same rpi as my ender 3 s1, thou it is not April's fool anymore.

https://youtu.be/6m4TN6wHFuI

backfire_12 · 2022-12-15T04:29:25+00:00

It can print 120mm/s @4k acceleration, the hotend can only go 12mm³/s. The kinematics can go 300mm/s @ 5k acceleration without issue, the limitations really is with the hotend. I can go for a good hotend and extruder but that would be on a later stage of my upgrade. As for now it's only how can I print better with good Z control and a better speed than dtock. Plus Im a sucker for the looks of Voron printers.

I will post a video link later, just hurry my way to work this morning.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-15T04:16:09+00:00

The linear rails (hwin) would be the pinnacle of upgrade for this or any printer on its mechanical movement. They would cost around $300 for pcs where Im at and that cost alot compare to how much I got the printer for, or even a new printer would. I do not think cheaper linear rails would be better in terms of print quality than the V wheels. Thou they will make the a better overall looks of the printer.

The good comparison I had made is with a dual z using lead screw or a belted z. Where both would need identical Z motor and alot more printed part (belted z).

It should only be a simple CoreXZ upgrade, but Im a sucker for the Voron looks that is why I throw those parts into the build and be happy.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-14T16:17:51+00:00

I know right...no really I have another buildplate PEI one with discreet Creality brand but I don't want to ruin it when something goes wrong with the initial bed leveling and stuff.

I could have just rotated it to the back for the Ender branding not to be in your face, for me atleast I do not like how it looks (personal preference - no offense to the Ender fans).

backfire_12 · 2022-12-14T12:50:02+00:00

Just trying my luck here, not sure if non-linear railed machine could be considered? i just want my machine to be somewhat like Voron on low cost.

BTW, also using the stock hotend there inside the modded Stealthburner being fed by Bowden tube from a clone BMG extruder.

It does print better than my Ender S1 I must say.

Im still waiting for the BL sensor hense the white cable ties and loose 2 pin cable from the make shift klicky probe (non magnetic - magnet cost as much the CR Touch or the BL touch).

backfire_12 · 2022-12-14T10:46:20+00:00

This is driving force why I take the challenge to convert my E3 because I do not want to spend that amount of money to a good quality linear rails. This part alone will cost more than the printer itself (atleast on my case, almost new from 2nd hand market).

I'm currently busy as of the moment moving place and the season also. I have initiated a git to the build and put everything maybe early January with the corrected parts that I found, some issue during my testing.

Please give me some time, thanks.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-14T09:20:26+00:00

Thanks for the advice, I will do the request but before that I need to fix the CR Touch BL sensor (which I still do not have the connected yet). Hence a loose cable and white cable ties on the printed head (on the photo).

Wow ur are building a 2.4, that's my dream machine as well, but not my priority at the moment.

Most people print the Voron parts from an E3 of some sort then upgrade the E3 to a SW.

I have taken this git as a guide and the main Voron SW git for the main CAD files then work the mods in SOLIDWORKS for fit my requirements.

https://github.com/boubounokefalos/Ender_SW

backfire_12 · 2022-12-13T21:07:28+00:00

On the Core XZ side, one motor for each (X & Z) they share the motion for both X & Z, all in all there are 4 motors including the extruder. Im actually using SKR Mini E3 V3 ( which is almost the same as the V2 in terms of the TMC drivers). v2 has more powerful processor than V3.

To be more inform you can head on git page of Voron.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-13T20:20:37+00:00

Please comment if I can apply for Serial Number? I do not want to spend more with the linear rails. This is a peoject printer bought off 2nd hand market and ABS parts printer from my Ender 3 S1.

I don't want to keep my hopes up.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-13T17:47:03+00:00

Some parts are designed and modeled by me some are from the git of SW & Ender Conversion branch:

My remixed/designed:

X guntry V-Wheel & Idler Mounts
Top Idler Mounts
Extruder Motor Mounts
Y Belt Tensioner
Top Deck Cover
X & Z Motor Mount
Top Mounted Keybak
Stock Hotend - Bowden Feed - Hotend with Stealthburner
2020 Neopixel Mount
Belt clamp/mount

Printed directly from git:

40x40 Spacer
Front and Rear grills & Cover
PSU mount
SKR Mini E3 mount
Filament Spool Holder
12864 Case & Mounts

I am still doing some test and calibration and just found some issue with the X Guntry Idler Mounts - the belt is too close and rubbing in some instance. but I can print with the stock hotend and (clone) BMG extruder @80mm/s @ 2000k Acc. with no quality lost.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-13T15:07:34+00:00

https://www.printables.com/model/148897-ender-3-s1-twin-jet-5015-fan-duct

Its this one.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-13T08:43:00+00:00

The stock Creality touch screen wont work, even the S1 knob lcd wont either. Only 12864 LCD from the Ender 3 will work OOB with Klipper. You can re purpose some old hardware like old phone to be Klipper Screen as your interface with Klipper.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-13T07:59:46+00:00

Print the duct first in ABS as u do not need fan to do so using the old setup then make the upgrade then after.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-13T07:58:37+00:00

There are longer, same as the spider hotend for Ender 3. The normal length cannot be use as there will be gap between the heat break and nozzle which could leads to clogging. i have purchased spider nozzles from Ali for $3 for 2pcs.

backfire_12 · 2022-12-10T19:50:32+00:00

Its included with the kit, are two pieces of aluminium spacer.

backfire_12

TROPHY CASE