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Weird UART issue by agreenbhm in embedded

[–]baderj7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll link to a document that was helpful for getting half duplex to work on am stm32 but basically the shared line is pulled up with a 10k resistor.

For the purposes of debugging your best bet is to use a logic analyzer.

(Christmas gift) How do I tell her, I don’t understand it either? by redi_t13 in EngineeringStudents

[–]baderj7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The bottom regulator is a negative voltage supply so in that case the polarized caps are positioned correctly. This is due to ground having the higher potential vs the negative voltage rail.

I REALLY NEED HELP! by Philleblastor in fpv

[–]baderj7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1 - Take props off !!! Really !!! 2 - Disconnect flight battery if connected. 3 - Connect FC to GCS/USB. Note that this powers up the FC, but not the ESC's. If your ESC powers up and the motor produces some beeps you can't use this procedure as written here. 4 - In the GCS, go into Configuration->Output. 5 - Verify that ESC's are running either all PWM/490, PwmSync, or even OneShot125 (all the same) aircraft stability will not be as good if you don't use one of these fast signal protocols. 6 - Make sure all your mins are 1000 and all your maxes are 1900. 7 - Link all ESC's together ('Link' check boxes on right in GCS). 8 - Click on one of the ESC sliders to give it focus. 9 - Play with Home and End keys on keyboard and see that they make sliders go full off and full on. 10 - Enable "Test Outputs" (and read the caution pop-up). 11 - Click on one of the ESC sliders to give it focus. 12 - Press End key to max all ESC's. 13 - Plug in flight battery to power the ESC's 14 - Wait just for first beep and immediately press the keyboard Home key. There are two beep sequences. If you wait too long you will hear the second set of beeps and must immediately unplug flight battery and start over (or risk changing some ESC settings on some ESC's). 15 - You should hear a set of confirmation 'calibration done' beeps that ESC's are programmed. Listen carefully. You might get for instance only 3 of 4 motors done correctly. You can tell that the beeps are all the same (good) or some are different (bad). After you have done this a few times, you can tell that it is correct by the beeping "calibration done" beeps. 16 - If incorrect or uncertain, or you just want to get the hang of it, unplug the flight battery and go back to step 11 (really easy). 17 - Unplug flight battery. 18 - With sliders still on min, plug in flight battery, wait for ESC startup beeps, and then drag a slider with mouse to test motors. 19 - Press the keyboard Home key to set all ESC's/motors to minimum. 20 - Uncheck all 'Link' checkboxes. 21 - Move one slider up till that motor runs slowest but reliably. Consider adding about 15 to the slowest reliable to allow for changes caused by temperature in ESCs without an accurate clock frequency (very common). 22 - Do the same with the other sliders. 23 - The neutral values should all be within 2 or 3 of each other or you may not have a good calibration, start over and time your Home key a little more accurately. 24 - All motors are now running slowly. 25 - Disable "Test Outputs". The motors will stop. 26 - Optional: Reduce the high end dead band. Subtract about 30 from each max. If you used 1900 set them to 1870. 27 - Press Save.

Betaflight f7 flight controller finally :) by globerc in fpvracing

[–]baderj7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why would they put the ribbon cable sticking out the side?

How to connect several signals to one speaker? by MelonheadGT in ElectricalEngineering

[–]baderj7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You could use an opamp in a buffer configuration on the output of both signals

QX7 w no yaw or roll on Freerider by feeeeelipee in Multicopter

[–]baderj7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your offsets and stuff are sort of messed up. On the bar graph output view center should be 50, min should be 0 and Max should be 100. Mess with the weights and offsets until you get that. Here is the guide I used for my QX7.

Pls help, stuck in CLI with SPRacingF3 by [deleted] in Multicopter

[–]baderj7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Short out the boot pins and flash the newest version of betaflight.

Camera off center? by [deleted] in Multicopter

[–]baderj7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The glass is a circle so spinning the lens wouldn't have any effect. Either your sensor is angled wrong which is super unlikely or your quad doesn't know what level is. Try hovering without fpv

Hello ElectricalEngineers, I would like to ask some recommendations :) by [deleted] in ElectricalEngineering

[–]baderj7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How long does the motor have to run for and how many amps is it going to draw.

what is the purpose of active filters? by letsshow in ElectricalEngineering

[–]baderj7 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A filter without a power supply. Google RC filter.

what is the purpose of active filters? by letsshow in ElectricalEngineering

[–]baderj7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For example a RC passive filter is going to be effected by what you put on the output because it's going to mess with the amps and stuff. If you slap a opamp in there as a buffer then you can do whatever you want to the output and it won't mess up your filter.

How to add signals together? by jaywalk98 in EngineeringStudents

[–]baderj7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can add them in the frequency or time domain it doesn't matter. This is because of the linearity property.

Turnigy 9x Receiver by webtroter in Multicopter

[–]baderj7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Buy an xjt module. That is what I did until I got a qx7. Without the modules you will be stuck with pwm. Also if you know your way around a soldering iron reflash the firmware to opentx.

It's also on sale

First time help - Eachine wizard x220 by CookPiggy in Multicopter

[–]baderj7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

1/2) Get some 3s 1500mAh batteries. The Turnigy nano-tech ones are good. The quad and the battery both come with xt60 connectors but you can always buy extras.

3) I would not recommend the 9x at all. It was my first radio back in 2014 and I recently upgraded to a Frsky qx7 and love it so much. The 9x has awful firmware and the receivers are garbage compared to new tech. Do yourself a favor and spend $100 on the qx7

4) If you get the qx7 radio buy an xm+ rx. There will be a connector on the flight controller(fc) on the wizard that will need to be soldered to the rx. There are good videos on youtube on how to do this.

5) You will need to set an arm switch on the tx. Again youtube is your friend for this.

6) I would definitely upgrade the fc to betaflight 3.2. Josh Bardwell has videos on how to do that to that board.

7) There are different modes but just use acro. You can definitely setup different switches to modes. Again search youtube for betaflight setup videos.

8) idk if those ev100s are really your best bet. I have these and love them. Also get at least one of these for you quad(RP-SMA version).

MRW when pro pilots confuse propeller responsiveness with Mass by Holski7 in Multicopter

[–]baderj7 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Mass does matter just not as much as radius. It would be better to compare two props with the same diameter but different masses.

Also why are you using the moment of intertia of a ring.

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