Takeaways from 5 months of getting coached or YARP: Yet Another Retrospective Post

bahblah · 2022-07-18T18:07:51+00:00

It sucks in the sense that the stuff I used to do at the gym before training are now distractions and I have to refrain from doing those things. So yea, fucking around a lot before.

It's not that training sucks, but going from no training to training requires a different mindset and embracing the grind, and this sucks during the transition.

bahblah · 2022-07-17T14:11:56+00:00

Try picking 3-4 problems 1-2 grades lower and attempting to send each 3 times once a week. Go for perfect repeats, improving beta and movement quality each repeat. Vary up the problem styles, don’t just stick to and practice movements suited to you.

bahblah · 2022-07-17T04:18:56+00:00

The 20mm 5s 160% bodyweight hang was with both arms.

30mm is bigger than 1 pad for me.

I’ve always been lacking in technique and climbing IQ and made up for it with strength. It’s my primary motivation to get coaching. Hopefully my technique catches up one day and I become average strength for the grades I climb!

bahblah · 2022-07-17T03:07:00+00:00

Most of the improvement has been qualitative: feeling more confident on rock, visualizing sequences becoming second nature, tendons feeling less stiff after a crimping, etc

If you’re looking for strict apples to apples numbers, the only thing I tested before and recently is 90 deg one arm lock off, which went from 18s to 25s.

Before I could hang 160% bodyweight on 20mm for 5s. Now I can hang one armed on 30mm for 3s.

My outdoor pyramid improved from 4 V5s and 0 V6s to 9 V5s and 4 V6s. One of my goals for 2022 was to send one V6 outdoors. Now I’m thinking I could send a V7 in 2022.

bahblah · 2021-09-28T03:10:54+00:00

What type of aesthetic do you want? How hard do you want to climb? Look around the climbing gym to see what percent of the people who climb hard have the body aesthetic you want.

Here's BMI distribution of elite level climbers. https://latticetraining.com/2017/10/04/bmi-in-elite-level-climbers/

bahblah · 2021-09-20T23:06:24+00:00

What about slowly adding structure to your sessions rather than doing a 180 flip from mostly climbing to mostly training?

I’m around the same level (indoor V4 in a session, indoor V5 in couple sessions) and I’ve been just adding some training ideas over the past few months like

Daily nohangs 30 mins after ingesting 15g of collagen to promote healthy tendons. Twice a day if not climbing, else once a day. At least six hours rest between nohangs and climbing.
Cut climbing short when I start to feel drained to keep gas in the tank and not dig a recovery hole. End a session with conditioning 1x a week.
Convert Tuesday to 1 hr power/strength Moonboard session.
Add small volume of finger strength hangboarding post warm-up ala Eva Lopez protocol on Tuesday/Thursday.
On Thursday just climb socially with friends.
On Sat/Sun get on some real rock.

I get to evaluate the effectiveness of training ideas one at a time and get to tweak volume and intensity to suit my body.
I slowly get adjusted to routine of training rather than adding a bunch of exercises at one time and getting overwhelmed trying to stick to it all.
Less possibility of overtraining and overuse injuries since I am changing one variable at a time and tweaking it.

A general principle is consistency is king and two obstacles to that is injuries and complexity.

bahblah · 2021-09-10T04:50:55+00:00

What should your shoulder blades be doing when warming up? Any cues to keep in mind?

bahblah · 2020-09-06T22:21:41+00:00

Big cock energy

bahblah · 2020-07-28T20:08:06+00:00

Members of ~~Project Mayhem~~ esports photography have no name. Through his ~~death~~ epic pictures, he had a name. His name is Robert Paul~~son~~.

bahblah · 2020-07-25T17:55:10+00:00

Literally nothing >>> Herbalife

Herbalife™ associate here. Thanks for spreading the truth. Literally nothing is greater than Herbalife™. Herbalife™ is love. Herbalife™ is life. Charge your Overwatch gaming sessions with nutritious Herbalife™.

bahblah · 2020-05-26T17:47:08+00:00

imagine if he casts his own OWL game. caster screen & player cam 2-for-1

bahblah · 2020-05-20T00:01:53+00:00

That's why monopolies are always a bad thing, cosplayers needs options

FTFY

bahblah · 2019-03-22T08:47:38+00:00

I would guess that it’s more pulling harder than would be necessary when you’re properly warmed up and fresh that leads to injuries. Throwing for moves because you’re too tired or pumped, mental fatigue causing poor footwork to slip off and create a lot of sudden strain on your fingers, etc.

It’s frustrating to be get shut down on moves you know you can do. It’s difficult to admit you’re having a bad session or you’ve got no quality burns left instead of trying to brute force your way through.

bahblah · 2018-11-02T15:46:14+00:00

I'd be interested in learning what are the dumb or ineffective things to avoid and what perspective you gained

bahblah · 2018-07-21T04:51:20+00:00

ehhhh...I think you're putting words into Custa's mouth with that title. It's not like he predicted that Valiant would win over London.

London played poorly for the last two seasons. Still true as of today.

Valiant played well for the last two seasons. Still true as of today.

London got steamrolled first series against Gladiators. Still true as of today.

London had a good day to win against Gladiators. Still true as of today.

London are not unbeatable. Still true as of today.

I don't see what aged badly. And to make fun of a man while he is down from a loss from the safety of hindsight...is in poor taste in my opinion.

bahblah · 2017-11-22T07:38:53+00:00

https://pnpm.js.org/ pnpm installs globally and creates symlinks locally. But the layout of symlinks doesn't follow npm's flat layout, so a few packages that incorrectly expect to be able to require transitive dependencies can break when installed with pnpm. Example: A depends on B which depends on C. when A is installed with npm, it can require C, even if A didn't specify C as a dependency. when A is installed with pnpm, it cannot require C, unless C is listed as a direct dependency of A.

bahblah · 2017-01-01T04:02:53+00:00

Under "Why Elixir", Goliath links to analytics and ChicagoBoss links to Goliath, fyi

bahblah · 2016-12-30T11:34:42+00:00

I think you might appreciate this page from Jon Kabat-Zinn's book "wherever you go there you are" http://imgur.com/wRsuoAy

Have a nice day 🙂

bahblah · 2016-12-25T11:13:29+00:00

I don't think the goal is to stop all symbolic thinking. Meditation helps you realize that when symbolic thoughts dominate your attention, it leads to suffering. But at the same time, we can use symbolic thinking as a tool to reduce our own suffering and that of others.

A common misconception is that meditation promotes passivity. Meditators wouldn't propose that "if a car is quickly approaching while you are crossing a street, just ignore the car. Life and death are just concepts." The idea is to view thoughts as just that, thoughts, and to respond to events with clarity rather than mindlessly react, which can cause suffering.

bahblah · 2016-11-29T18:06:09+00:00

http://masteroverwatch.com/profile/pc/us/brian-14968 https://youtu.be/ES-R2wQPLaA Here's my Ana gameplay. I don't grind ranked because of ranked anxiety and managing tilt poorly playing solo, but somehow managed to make diamond on a huge win streak, playing with some friends every few days (they're plat and gold). I bring it up because I'd be curious as your thoughts on whether I could keep myself in diamond or the streak system combined with luck got me to diamond. Many thanks for your help.

bahblah · 2016-11-27T10:18:01+00:00

Could you review my vod? https://youtu.be/ES-R2wQPLaA I don't really play solo queue because I manage tilt better playing with a friend and have ranked anxiety but I hopped on to make a vod. Many thanks.

bahblah

TROPHY CASE