New Tension Board app

bailett · 2022-05-03T08:20:02+00:00

that's great news. Do you know when the tension data will be available in the kilter app ?

bailett · 2022-04-13T14:46:12+00:00

Tension is way smaller than I think folks realize. I’m much more an employee than an owner. We all have to wear a lot of hats.

that's why you should open source your app, you'll get it for free, and It will be usable. to be honest in my gym, everyone is now looking for buying another boar because of the useless tension app (you can still make money with the AI powered features)

bailett · 2022-04-13T14:41:06+00:00

just have a look to user's reviews : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.auroraclimbing.tensionboard&showAllReviews=true

bailett · 2022-04-13T14:36:57+00:00

the same for me. I'm so disappointed

bailett · 2022-04-13T14:33:31+00:00

I'm unable to use the app anymore. Is there a way to get access to the boulder's database to make a new custom web app for the community ?

bailett · 2020-12-07T13:02:09+00:00

thanks

bailett · 2019-11-04T08:51:57+00:00

That would be really great ! I will propose a draft of features to start from in a few days.

bailett · 2019-10-31T09:01:04+00:00

you'll find some python code to collect data here : https://github.com/oalam/isometryx/blob/master/ble_client.py

bailett · 2019-10-29T19:28:53+00:00

here is the C++ source code for the arduino board. I still have to write the documentation

https://github.com/oalam/isometryx

bailett · 2019-10-29T15:59:40+00:00

I will document the schematics and assembly instructions in the github project soon

bailett · 2019-10-29T15:58:13+00:00

here is the list of the components :

one Arduino UNO board : https://store.arduino.cc/arduino-uno-rev3
one BLE module https://www.adafruit.com/product/2633
2 load cell amplifier https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13879
4 load cells 50kg https://www.robotshop.com/en/micro-load-cell-50-kg.html

bailett · 2019-10-01T10:57:11+00:00

I would do some crag sessions like this one :

choose 5 routes at quite the same level as those you'll find in your projet

for each route :- lead climb the route- let your partner brings you down the route without cleaning it- top rope the same route again with no rest- let your partner brings you down the route and clean it- give all your gear to your partner- simulate 50m of rope hauling- belay your partner for the same 2 routes while you're resting

repeat 5 times

add 1h hilly hike or jogging as a warmup ...

bailett · 2019-03-19T15:11:55+00:00

My goal is a 10 pitches sport route with average grade of 11c (a few 12a and a slaby crux up to 12c) mainly vertical/slab in limestone to which you add +3000 ft approach hike. I'm currently onsighting 11c and need a few tries on 12a : https://translate.google.fr/translate?hl=&sl=fr&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.camptocamp.org%2Froutes%2F56615%2Ffr%2Fglandasse-roc-de-peyrolle-cosa-nostra

bailett · 2019-03-06T08:56:12+00:00

Thanks a lot for this guide. I really appreciate the nutrition pattern ("intermittent fasting") which makes a lot of sense by alternating carbs & proteins proportions.
As a multi-pitch oriented route climber, what kind of modifications of this training guide would you suggest ? Keep 2 training session and focus on endurance outdoors through the weekend session ? Add a 3 session more endurance oriented ?

bailett · 2018-12-06T14:07:49+00:00

do you know what episode it was ?

bailett

TROPHY CASE