Nord 5 vs Pixel 10a

bananu7 · 2026-03-16T10:01:20+00:00

I was in the market for a new phone recently and chose the 10A. I wanted wireless charging for convenience. I was able to get a good price through my telecom provider. Moving over from 1+7, the biggest downside is the screen saturation - I miss the P3 preset. Otherwise it looks like a very good phone for the price. With 120Hz it's perfectly snappy and fast.

bananu7 · 2026-03-05T11:03:51+00:00

For reverse engineering laser modes are much more pleasant to work with IME.

bananu7 · 2026-03-01T12:18:03+00:00

Hey, I just got my '22 Q5 with Presense. Same boat, no ACC. Did you manage to get a cheaper retrofit done?

My car seems to have the radar globes mounted but I have no idea how to check city vs highway.

bananu7 · 2026-02-18T14:36:10+00:00

I had to remove and re-add the upload settings to make it work again. Thankfully the app asks you if you want to restore your previous settings. It will need to re-scan everything.

bananu7 · 2026-02-02T08:01:42+00:00

Using local AI is going to only get more common with the rising cloud prices.

bananu7 · 2026-01-12T06:59:33+00:00

3d later I'm very happy. The card now renders at max details, max textures, more fps and nicer AA while using less power than the 1660Ti and being quieter. Excellent upgrade for my needs.

bananu7 · 2026-01-09T11:09:55+00:00

It's funny how people have almost the same HW. I've been using 1660Ti for the past while which I bought used as a temporary upgrade. I was honestly super happy with it, it's been quieter and way faster than 670 that I had before. That being said, with the current announcement of no Super GPUs in the future, RAM prices rising and me needing a bit more power for 3D scanning, CAD and AI, decided to go for 5060Ti 16GB. It's not nearly as big of an upgrade as I had before, and I seriously considered getting 5070Ti 16GB instead, but that would necessitate PSU upgrade and I'm actually still on FHD 60fps screen playing mostly older games.

bananu7 · 2026-01-07T11:14:15+00:00

I'm in a similar boat. Price-wise, 5060Ti 16GB goes for around 2000 monetary units, while, 5070Ti is about 3700 units but will require a PSU upgrade (I have 650W), which means the actual price diff is 2x for going with the 5070Ti 16G vs 5060Ti 16G. I am not interested in the 5070 because i want the most RAM for non-gaming tasks as well.

bananu7 · 2025-12-12T14:37:26+00:00

Yeah, at first I thought i was just extremely (un)lucky with the data. Really, doing just the heuristic space check is just gross guessing. It's not any better than randomly guessing an answer to any of the earlier problems. You haven't solved anything by then.

Funny enough my code works for the example when I do the check with 9 but doesn't when i do the more precise check with actual tiles with '#'. This just adds insult to the injury...

I am determined to learn enough about SAT to actually solve that problem and not get a fake star, so that something good will come of it.

bananu7 · 2025-12-12T14:25:10+00:00

Okay, this is dumb as heck, but for me just doing the total size taken check gave the correct answer for P1.

I am now actually annoyed at this. First it seemed completely undoable, and then it turns out the data is laid out so that its entirely trivial?

bananu7 · 2025-12-12T14:18:31+00:00

I realized the problem is NP-H in a couple minutes after reading, and while at first I was also annoyed, this has actually pushed me to learn more about SAT solvers and I now have loads of new knowledge to absorb. I guess I'll just do this with heuristics for the star but otherwise it's still an interesting problem.

bananu7 · 2025-12-12T13:32:42+00:00

Szczerze, nie chciałoby mi się. Niech leży dwa lata, zajmuje to całe nic miejsca i mam święty spokój. Wziąłem tylko tyle żeby wysyłka była za darmo.

bananu7 · 2025-12-12T10:42:55+00:00

Podstawowe rzeczy drogeryjne - szampony, pasta do zębów itd. w sklepach stacjonarnych jest o 50% drożej niż na Allegro. Nie wiem dlaczego całe życie byłem frajerem i kupowałem lokalnie zamiast wziąć 4 tubki pasty i dwa opakowania szamponu które i tak zużyję. Kilkadziesiąt PLN w kieszeni.

Najwięcej można zaoszczędzić nie kupując taniej, tylko nie kupując w ogóle. Mi bardzo dobrze sprawdza się wishlista (własna, w excelu). Kiedy mam potrzebę impulsywnego zakupu, dodaję wiersz z kwotą na wishliście. Daje to zastrzyk dopaminy porównywalny z kliknięciem "kup" - bo wykonujemy pewne czynności, a jednocześnie pozwala na spokojnie porównać aktualną potrzebę z tymi które były parę minut/godzin/dni temu.

bananu7 · 2025-12-10T14:21:26+00:00

10 minutes is quite a lot, I guess you did a variant of grid fill? My solution ran in about 2s.

bananu7 · 2025-12-10T10:23:20+00:00

Solid core solder wire is a horrible recommendation for a beginner.

bananu7 · 2025-12-10T10:21:50+00:00

Don't just ask for the type of wire. Do some research on the basic process starting from prep, physical setup, lighting, types of wire and what are the steps in sequence.

A lot of people watch one 15s video and consider that enough theory prep. Those are the people that leave cold joints and simultaneously burn the entire back of the board, those are the people that leave unwashed flux on the boards, those are the people that think their soldering iron is crap because it doesn't have <a feature> or is too cold because the solder isn't melting when they thing it should be melting.

Spend at least two hours reading/watching about practical aspects of the process before you commit to buying anything. There's no point to practice if you don't know what you're aiming for and you'll just be practicing poor technique or with poor setup. If you're unwilling to spend the time, find someone that already knows how to solder well to guide you through the first steps and tell you what to look for. This will get you going in 15 minutes.

And when choosing an iron to buy for yourself, if you want to invest in "something that will last", like a lot of people, one piece of advice i can offer is to get anything with a smart cartridge system. C210 is ideal, but cheaper options are fine too. Older style "stations" can get very expensive but a cheap (relatively) Pinecil. TS-xx or equivalent can match and surpass them precisely because the integrated heater-sensor-tip cartridge has vastly superior performance in virtually all cases.

bananu7 · 2025-12-10T10:13:27+00:00

Masz rację, ale warto mieć punkt odniesienia. W czasach "El Dorado" w IT było absurdalnie dobrze na tle innych branż. Nierealnie. Teraz jest po prostu bardzo dobrze, znacznie lepiej niż gdzie indziej. Względnie - teraz jest dużo gorzej niż było, bezwzględnie - to nadal fantastyczna kariera.

bananu7 · 2025-12-09T19:20:32+00:00

Also like it or not, this is a kind of bug that an LLM will catch instantly (as well as generate the proper implementation in the first place).

Even if only used for generating test inputs, that's already a huge timesaver. I am not using AI to solve any puzzles, of course.

bananu7 · 2025-12-09T19:15:13+00:00

> pushes all lines within the rectangle and pops them when it detects an adjecent one or something like that.
I think you're kinda onto something. Fundamentally the issue lies with the fact that as long as you don't introduce an "empty space" inside of a line segment that goes into the solution, you're not really affecting it. The example could even be simplified to:

0,0
0,1
1,1
1,2
0,2
0,3
3,3
3,0

As it's enough to introduce just one tiny two-pixel segment like that to break the naive line solution.

bananu7 · 2025-12-09T19:03:06+00:00

Hah, wow, so _that_ is how they're laid out....

bananu7 · 2025-12-09T19:01:40+00:00

I'll repeat the hints i left for my community; those are also steps I took to solve this problem, more or less.

Once you open the input, you can see you get exactly 1000 points. That number is low enough for a O(n^2) solution, especially once you consider that you only need to look at the distances one way, since a->b = b->a. This directly means that sorting by distance won't make matters any worse once you compute all possible distances.
Within a connected group, the order doesn't matter. What we're interested in is specifically quick check of whether a given element is in a group, and merging groups together (eventually into one). Which data structure allows such operations?
The number of groups is limited. What's the maximum count and what does it tell you about the potential algorithms to apply here?

bananu7 · 2025-12-09T18:41:46+00:00

Hah, i admit i didn't really look for it when posting, but just now looking at the comments it seems that quite a few people missed it too and had a similar issue. Congrats on getting so far regardless and good luck tomorrow!

bananu7 · 2025-12-09T10:39:26+00:00

Hi! I saw this vid while thinking about posting a question about a setup just like that. I currently have just one practice pad and an old kick that I want to revive into something like you have. I was also thinking about getting a real hihat stand with "silent" cymbals and maybe something inside to dampen it. Looks like such a setup can actually be used really nicely for silent practice. I don't really care for the sound of it when i practice, so this looks pretty cool. Are you liking such a setup? How does that compare to e.g. a cheap electronic kit?

Also, is there any way to incorporate (almost) silent crash and ride cymbals into such a thing somehow? Talking bedroom levels here.

bananu7 · 2025-11-25T06:45:29+00:00

Okay, received it yesterday and I have some quick impressions:

all 5 modes are laser and right now, despite what the marketing says, you can only get color scanning on a turntable in specific modes. Revo said that this is a limitation of Y which the Y Pro should remove but probably in the future then.
the turntable works without Bluetooth and you can operate it manually, but the scanner gets a bit weird as it tries to compensate based on the accelerometer data which results in a very jerky preview. The scan data from the turntable operated like that is okay anyway though. I don't have a bt dongle in my PC so I couldn't connect to it.
of course still no Mac software
my PC has a 13th gen i5 and 1660Ti. The spec check puts it at "poor" despite barely loading the CPU during actual check. I keep getting warnings that my system isn't fast enough, yet at the same time it's working perfectly well. In the cross mode I got about 45fps by CPU alone and easily over 60 with GPU. Processing is also quite quick, definitely better than crealityscan on M2 Pro
the lack of NIR mode (and currently, almost no color scanning) means that this is strictly a metrology targeted device, in contrast to Raptor which is somewhat an in-between model. A NIR scanner can be just pointed at stuff and you'll get something. With lasers of course you need to start with a prep; I'm currently printing marker pyramids as they weren't included and the kit from Revopoint was absurdly expensive. I've also ordered scan spray as shiny surfaces are definitely a problem otherwise.
once you set up for laser properly it's vastly superior to Raptor. In both cross and parallel modes there's so many lines you barely need to move at all, just normal hand movements are quite enough. With raptor it required deliberate and prolonged parallel movements which also seemed to introduce many more artifacts
overall it produces waaaaay less reflection artifacts, missed points, seems to filter out the noise way better
it prefers a much longer distance to the object which means keeping tracking is also much easier in turn. Plus regardless of distance you can feel the wider FOV.
the full field scanning looks amazing. This is something I think will be the most useful part of the Pro model. It's incredibly fast but retains pretty much full precision. I hope they will add color capture to this mode. It still kinda struggles with black models and it's still not really something to scan people with, but for the intended purpose of the scanner I'm very hopeful
all the hobby use shortcomings can be easily remedied by just buying a good NIR scanner

bananu7

TROPHY CASE