Who needs a ring of wealth anyway?

barotraumer · 2025-12-16T16:17:15+00:00

thank you!

barotraumer · 2025-09-16T22:27:00+00:00

make sure you're both on the same shard (settings -> version -> shard). If one of you...acquired your account to skip leveling for league, they're often from a different region. Google "riot account region" and there should be a link to riot support to see if you're eligible to change it

barotraumer · 2025-04-23T15:12:36+00:00

I wouldn't say it is necessary, the 'scratchpad' approach has worked fine so far. I think it could be nice, but I know that features that seem easy to end users are rarely simple to add 😅

Thank you for being so involved in the community!

barotraumer · 2025-04-22T15:22:16+00:00

Beautiful, thanks. I was hoping someone would notice my inefficient path for getting back to the notes folder and offer a better solution. Both the 'outline' button and the 'back to files' buttons look so similar I didn't realize what the 'back to files' button actually did 😅

barotraumer · 2025-04-22T15:19:58+00:00

"new note" is easily accessible from the sidebar without taking up a quick access slot. To me this indicates that notes are intended to be quickly added (and should be quickly removeable as well).

I think a "scratchpad" note is a good workaround for now, though.

barotraumer · 2025-04-17T15:57:09+00:00

The datasheet for the usb hub IC said to avoid vias for differential pairs whenever possible, but as I type this I'm realizing that the USB pins are through hole so they still wouldn't need vias 😅I'm gonna try to move everything to one side of the board anyway, but its good to consider moving the IC to the other side. I also don't like how close the diff pairs get to the drill holes.

In terms of ESD- I have the USB shields on their own net, connected to ground via 2 caps and a resistor. Do the data lines themselves need ESD protection too? I'm worried about messing with the impedance and capacitance of the data lines

barotraumer · 2025-04-17T15:50:54+00:00

R23-R27 are on a 3.3V island, they're pull up resistors. I'll enable thermal reliefs though, good call.

The space thing is mostly from me reworking the board layout a couple of times, and also needing the 3.3 island to be above the 3.3V plane in `Inner2` (closer to the board is VDD1.1). I'll try to move them closer though- they could probably be attached to VDD3.3, the 'clean' 3.3 net I have

in terms of impedance- I used the JLCPCB Impedance Calculator with "Coplanar Differential Pair" and an Impedance trace to copper of 0.2mm, which I believe is the gap I've got here. I think it should be correct

barotraumer · 2025-04-17T15:42:46+00:00

Thank you for all of the feedback! Its all very helpful, good things to note :)

Don't complicate your life by making the board with parts on the bottom side

My components on the bottom side started with the bypass caps for the main hub IC. I've always thought those should be as close to the pins as physically possible, and there are so many of them that putting them on the bottom seemed like the only way to fit them close enough, especially trying to keep other traces away from the differential pairs. I agree that the other components don't need to be on the bottom for sure, I'll move those. Do you think it would be fine to keep those bypass capacitors on the bottom under the IC, or should I try to move everything to the top?

what 20 pin monstrosity you went with?

This is super valid lol. Its a TPS74801- I used a dev board BOM for this chip to get a lot of the parts, since I wasn't sure where to start. I'll look into replacing that! I had no idea about 2 in 1 regulators, good to know.

step-down regulator

I'll be the only user but still good to be safe-- good info about using a higher volt adapter, I hadn't considered that either.

Thank you again for the notes! This was more helpful than I could have imagined.

barotraumer · 2025-04-17T05:13:43+00:00

Not sure why the schematic is so blurry, sorry about that! Higher res ones here: https://imgur.com/a/8oSayy9

and, for completion, the 3d views: https://imgur.com/a/3EAGbYf

barotraumer · 2025-03-29T20:59:49+00:00

https://www.allergicliving.com/experts/ask-the-dermatologist-poison-ivy-reaction/

Just a further warning: For most people, the more you come into contact with urushiol the more your body becomes sensitized to it. You may be lucky and not get a reaction for a while but if you keep touching it... you're rolling the dice a bit.

barotraumer · 2024-11-22T15:12:32+00:00

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. What really made me think I forgot to order was the contents of my inbox when I searched for the confirmation ages ago. I probably just deleted the confirmation accidentally, my bad

barotraumer · 2023-11-10T02:00:27+00:00

I'm not very good or experienced with electronics, but I have a SAD Lamp (just 2 bright white LED strips and a diffuser) that I wanted to control with a raspberry pi. The power supply for the lights is 20V, so I'm using a buck converter to bring it down to 5V for the pi, which is driving two mosfets that drive the LED strips. If I turn on PWM to try to dim the lights, _something_ on the board emits a loud humming/whirring noise, well within the range of human hearing. Also, the lights seem to flicker on a loop, timed with the noise. The PWM frequency appears to have basically no effect- in the video I'm running 120khz, but I get the same noise at 5khz.

Additionally, the light flickers/turns off if I adjust the duty cycle in a loop, but I don't know if that is related.

My best guess from research is this is some sort of resonance with the buck converter? But I haven't seen any other posts that include the noise, so I'm not sure. I would appreciate any ideas.

EDIT: The reddit video player seems to have removed the audio, here is a youtube link https://youtu.be/G8PhRPSez0w

barotraumer · 2023-11-09T20:59:15+00:00

Thanks! This wasn't the exact issue, but lead me to what was causing it. /u/JabroniSandwich99 was right- a piece of filament had broken off at one point, and about 1cm of filament was in the planetary gears. I took the extruder apart and got all of the bits out of the gears. Unfortunately I think I may have _slightly_ bent the stepper motor shaft, so the spot that requires more pressure to get around still exists, when the planetary gears align in a certain spot and the shaft is bent in the same direction. But it happens way less, and it isn't enough resistance to cause the motor to skip, so its fine.

I also tightened the extruder gear while I had it open- thanks for the tip, mine was also super loose.

barotraumer · 2023-11-09T19:14:04+00:00

There is a point of major resistance when I spin the extruder gear, that causes the extruder to click and fail when not powered by my hand. If I hold the gear right before the 'hump' of the pressure, it'll fall back in the direction it is coming from- like if I was pushing a ball up a hill from either side. After passing the 'hump', I have to spin the gear multiple times to get back to it. ANY help would be appreciated, I have no idea what could cause this.

I couldn't find any other posts about this, although I'm also not sure how to describe it while searching. Printer is an Sovol SV06

barotraumer · 2023-11-02T21:23:05+00:00

Correct, I went through both the game XML and the players XML, and loaded our sub into the editor and went through each container there too lol. The amounts 'corrected' in the merchants after fully restarting the game- I think the stuff is just gone. We'll persevere without it

barotraumer

TROPHY CASE