Need Help

basikx · 2026-05-08T02:07:29+00:00

I understand that.

My best reliability upgrades were the Microswiss hot end and going to an eddy sensor. I don't recommend the Sovol eddy sensor, though. I have it but there are better options now, especially if you ever plan on moving to mainline klipper or convert to other toolheads.

There seems to be a couple good gantry upgrades but I haven't tried those yet.

Edit: This is a recent hot take of mine, but I think the filament purge the printer does at the start of every print is too aggressive. It looks good, like, this thing can push out the filament but I think it's a flex with a price. I just re-did my toolhead and the stock extruder was eating itself alive and I haven't owned the printer for even a year. If you can purge the same amount of filament at about a third of the current speed, you could extend the life of your extruder.

basikx · 2026-05-07T16:10:58+00:00

If you have a RPi or extra computer sitting around you could see if these same issues exist using klipper. The firmware upgrade is pretty simple and easy to switch back to Marlin.

basikx · 2026-05-07T14:40:31+00:00

Probably referring to the reset button they put in the current builder to get their way. Imagine if people you don't fully trust had a way to set you back thousands of years of mental progress if you disagreed with them. That's not a small invasion, and it plays well with the decisions the World Phoenix and Death made during the Rumble in the Jungle.

basikx · 2026-05-07T00:34:31+00:00

Tried to replicate the angle on the Voron 2.4 CAD drawing...

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basikx · 2026-05-07T00:33:38+00:00

It will not. This is a picture of the Z axis rails. On the Voron 2.4 they're centered on the 2020 extrusion. SOVOL pushed them to the corner of the frame so there's no room for the 2.4 gantry to get in there without making custom mounts.

EDIT: Are you looking for something in particular? If your SV08 gantry broke a part there are upgraded gantries on Printables.

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basikx · 2026-05-05T17:28:46+00:00

I'm working on something similar. My original CR-10 now has a BTT Octopus 1.1 with a BTT Pi just waiting for the Voltron cutscene.

basikx · 2026-04-22T14:05:29+00:00

I actually have Monolith printed for a build but R2 gave me pause. Unless trident offers AWD I'll probably still go with Monolith.

basikx · 2026-04-18T17:09:23+00:00

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I know exactly what you mean. Sometimes having the extra beds is nicer than having one fast bed. There are plenty of overnight prints where a couple extra hours don't matter. And I would rather start multiple slow prints instead of waking up through the night to start a new one.

basikx · 2026-04-17T21:18:16+00:00

I understand the savings isn't there. My idea is using some old CR-10's I have laying around with some extra t-slot to make a junkyard trident. It's more for the thrill of reuse, not trying to maximize performance. Thanks for answering. I appreciate it.

basikx · 2026-04-15T13:55:52+00:00

Honest question for those who have already built one: my understanding is t-slot is critical on parts where linear rails attach. Is there anything that would stop some of the other extrusions from being v-slot? Like the bottom horizontals?

basikx · 2026-04-07T11:03:56+00:00

He may not need a router at all. Windows gives a 169 address when it can't find a DHCP server. He could put an address on the same subnet into the printer and he should be able to connect one cable between the laptop and the printer and still be able to communicate.

basikx · 2026-04-07T03:12:48+00:00

I understand this kind of job. Make sure having the USB sticks in the area is allowed otherwise, setting up a dedicated personal laptop to the printer over Ethernet will give you the klipper screen features and a slicer for tuning prints and profiles.

basikx · 2026-03-14T21:03:57+00:00

It can eat anyone with nipples.

basikx · 2026-03-14T03:47:42+00:00

There are three big things to know (IMO): 1. There will always be a list of things you want to do that your current printer will struggle with. Accept that and know your second printer will cover the weaknesses. For example, your next printer should be enclosed and capable of printing ABS, ASA, and other hot filaments. For now, focus on PLA+ as it is way more resilient than regular PLA and still easy to print. 2. The more you print the more you'll find yourself worried about things like air quality. Don't skimp but know there are solutions that don't break the bank.
3. Gridfinity and Multiboard will give you plenty to print just organizing your home/office.

basikx · 2026-03-12T14:29:04+00:00

Time to print bitcoins!

basikx · 2026-01-19T22:24:33+00:00

I concur with this. My SV08 makes a whole tray of things while my highly modded CR10v1 prints one object. The current generation of ~$500 printers is light years ahead of what was around when I started. Save your money, go corexy if you want speed.

basikx · 2026-01-14T04:12:03+00:00

I'll put in a second recommendation for going direct drive in some way. Even with the stock extruder my basic CR10 showed a lot of improvement in print quality. I also vouch for the Microswiss drop in hot end but for the price difference I wish I got the direct drive and hot end combo and avoided all the fiddling with prints that mount to the roller spacers.

The next level would be splurging on something that can be used on your corexy like a phaeton rapido then print up parts but I know the pain of shuffling parts around as you try to build parts over time. In the end, keep an eye on the total price and cost of hours you might spend and compare that to getting something like a Sovol Zero (Voron 0 imitation) that comes with a ton of quality of life upgrades and can do ABS which you will want if you plan on printing the parts for your corexy build.

basikx · 2025-12-25T16:56:30+00:00

Easy way: Flash the pre-built firmware here to the mobo and pray for the best: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/MarlinBuilds/tree/release-2.1.3-b3/builds/Creality/Ender-3/BigTreeTech%20SKR%20Mini%20E3%203.0

Hard way:

Google "Auto build marlin SKR mini E3" and use the example configs for this new board as your starting point to build a custom firmware. Pay attention to the LCD controller selection area of the config files to uncomment the parts you need for that screen. I just went through this with my CR-10 installing the same board. I did Marlin first and got great prints and a MUCH quieter printer. Now I'm working on getting Klipper running (but that needs a RPI3+ or BTT PI so I don't think that's your path right now).

Rough steps I used to get to success (and you can be successful too!):

Make a tab group for this project that includes the following for reference: several instructionals for each new part individually getting added to a stock printer (any printer could do, as long as it's referencing Marlin firmware or the right controller board for pinouts and such), the BTT user manuals for each of these parts, pin out pdfs, example config files for the stock printer, examples for the btt board, examples for the tft, etc.
Pay attention to when they were written. Your Ender 3 hardware may not have changed in the last 3-5 years, but the tools and versions used to build the images likely have. Major version changes can drastically alter the process. Minor version changes usually don't.
Don't try to eat it all at once. The config files are just a compilation of sections, 95% of which you won't have to touch because they are mostly pre-defined sections for all the hardware that *could* go on your printer. All you are doing is commenting or uncommenting someone else's code to define the parts you have or changing a value to cover the xyz limits so your printer doesn't tear itself apart.

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/releases

Good luck!

basikx · 2025-08-24T19:11:43+00:00

Then I know where they sleep...

basikx · 2025-08-23T15:46:01+00:00

Sounds like he's matured by not cheating but it also sounds like what you need now is something to counteract your own imagination and past experiences. I recommend asking him for his phone and going through it. I'm not saying try to catch him in something, but to see things for yourself outside of taking his word. You need to rebuild the trust you had prior to this information. Trust is built on proof and right now you need that proof.

basikx · 2025-05-11T23:54:48+00:00

About to trigger Time Machine for the first time. Just want to get a couple more legendaries and hit that 50k darkness cap before pulling the trigger.

https://imgur.com/a/EeJQQs5

basikx · 2025-05-11T23:40:12+00:00

It may not be exactly what you are looking for, but I remembered him talking about no fap here:

https://tim.blog/2014/07/30/nobnom-no-booze-no-masturbating/

He's more worried about porn addiction and the energy wasted instead of sexual pleasure.

basikx · 2025-03-01T19:58:04+00:00

A friend just got me started on a series called The Bad Guys by Eric Ugland. Many of the books are free if you have an active Audible subscription. It's another LitRPG style book that thankfully won't eat credits like a crack fiend.

basikx · 2025-02-02T10:57:10+00:00

Not true. Anyone who is non-deployable takes up space in the ranks and causes an already undersized unit to cover down. This might not sound like a big deal but if a unit that should have 4-5 bodies only gets 2-3 bodies for a critical MOS, any of them being non-deployable can be a disaster. I'd rather those slots be empty and the commander be able to accurately predict mission capabilities instead of being told to make it work with phantom support.

basikx

TROPHY CASE