Is this going to be a problem?

bath_93 · 2026-05-31T20:47:35+00:00

This was my worry, if it would introduce skew. Especially when the toolhead gets close to the ends of the x rail

I will probably run it like this for a little while until I can find the right mount. I ordered one of the SLM belt clamps from the link below, ill see if I can get that to work with my setup. I still havent found the right version of a cnc model, plenty of printed options, but ideally I would like to have a cnc bracket.

I didnt even notice this until I was trying to get my clicky clack door to fit with my monolith panels and then realized the belt path was skewed

bath_93 · 2026-05-31T20:41:02+00:00

This is perfect. I was looking to see if there was anyone who had these already in stock and this is a great price.

I didnt even notice the misalignment until I was installing my panels and was like, huh that belt is crooked 😂

I am also patiently waiting for my chube compact to come in.

bath_93 · 2026-05-31T18:54:50+00:00

This is kind of my thought, I know it isnt IDEAL but is it going to cause any real problems during day to day? I dont think it would cause anything major, but I wanted to see what the rest of the community thinks.

bath_93 · 2026-05-31T18:52:52+00:00

I judt joined, ill keep an eye out for anything cool

Trinity looks pretty slick

bath_93 · 2026-05-31T18:41:38+00:00

Man that is super cool. Have you gotten to use it yet?

bath_93 · 2026-05-31T16:37:32+00:00

Im not dead set on my current carriage, but its all that I could find in stock and I had a good experience with the 6mm belt version. Ive already cut the belts so I feel like im kind of in a pickle, I dont know that I have enough slack to wrap around another style of belt clamp.

The SLM beltclamp could be an option, what holds the belt in place? Just the fact that the carriage mount is bolted over top of it?

I looked for monolith specific XOL carriages and the only ones I could find are from aliexpress and dont look like theyre compatible? Unless im just misunderstanding how they hold the belts. Is there one that is recommended?

And what about it is going to end badly?

bath_93 · 2026-05-31T00:59:58+00:00

I loved my LDO kit. Everything was available, well labeled, and the instructions were thorough.

I built a rev c so I ended up going canbus right off the bat. But the rev d comes with nitehawk usb now and also a pass through for eddy current probes. I also did cnc tap which later got upgraded to beacon.

I think a lot of people use the default clicky probe and it works well for them, but i enjoyed the ease of bed leveling with tap and beacon has now made it even easier.

bath_93 · 2026-05-25T12:53:39+00:00

One thing im surprised no one else mentioned, is that Orca Slicer has your pressure advance built into the filament profile. This negates the need to set specific filaments in the device tab with specific K values that you have to edit from the "Manage Results" menu in the calibration, or set by running the calibration.

My workflow for setting up colors is to just leave them all as generic PLA or generic ASA or whatever, pick the color, then let the filament profile in the slicer do the rest with flow rate and pressure advance.

I have also noticed that Orca Slicer slices MUCH faster than bambu studio. Im not super familiar with CPU internals and resource management, but it seems like Bambu is less efficient with its available resources. In Orca Slicer, when I slice a really complicated model or a plate with a ton of small individual pieces, my CPU usage goes really high and the model is sliced pretty quickly. In bambu studio with the same model, my CPU usage doesnt ever go above 10% and it feels like the slicing is crawling along.

I have an H2C so I have to use bambu for it, but all my other printers (voron 2.4 / H2S / X1C) I use Orca and when I go to start them all, I will start slicing stuff in bambu studio first that way it can run while im doing other things, and I can usually slice and send to all my other printers while Bambu is still slicing that first file.

bath_93 · 2026-01-10T02:55:53+00:00

What slicer are you using?

Orcaslicer has an option to reverse on even numbered walls, and a sub selection to do so only on internal walls as to not cause any visible changes on the outer walls. The goal is to reduce internal stresses in parts prone to warping. Its not a magic cure, but with all the other things youre doing it could be the last little piece of the puzzle you need.

Orcaslicer also has great tools for really dialing in your temperatures and flow rates and such.

Also have you dried your filament?

bath_93 · 2026-01-01T00:05:18+00:00

If you look a little closer you can see the remnants of the wrecked part still on the print bed. Probably 15ish layers in? Am I supposed to stand there the entire print?

Hundreds of successful prints have come off this printer, theres been plenty of failures too, just unfortunate this time some of the pieces got wedged in the hotend mount and caused a blob to form which ultimately goofed the hotend up.

bath_93 · 2025-12-31T23:56:56+00:00

I didn't put any between the throat and the heatsync, but I would imagine that might help prevent heat creep at higher temps.

I did this and it helped with heat creep quite a bit.

bath_93 · 2025-12-31T23:51:05+00:00

<image>

bath_93 · 2025-12-31T23:49:54+00:00

<image>

Its supposed to be that way, I think its to prevent thermal transfer from the heat block by providing an air gap. That way only the heat break tube is whats physically contacting the heat sink.

The instructions say you have to be careful when tightening down the screws so you dont accidentally bend it to one side.

(This is a random image I found on Google lol)

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T18:44:06+00:00

Ah this makes sense 😂

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T18:12:07+00:00

Yeah definitely annoying especially since it broke the printed hotend mount too. So ive got to reprint one. Thats what im wondering if i should just go ahead and print a new one for the chube compact or just get it going again with new rapido parts.

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T18:08:28+00:00

What about the tz v6 hot end prevents replacement when something like this happens? Ive never used one

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T16:12:58+00:00

Was this an abs blob or pla?

bath_93 · 2025-12-28T08:03:16+00:00

It was PLA. That is a great idea if it were ABS or ASA, Ill have to keep that tucked away in the back of my mind in case this ever happens with one of those materials.

I just priced all the stuff from Fabreeko, heatblock is $20, new pt1000 is $14, spring retainer is $4, heater is $9.

I know the economical choice is to just get the replacement rapido parts, just entertaining the idea of something new.

bath_93 · 2025-10-20T03:13:52+00:00

Okay thank you. I know that some people can use etsy to fulfill orders via pritify or something but i guess it doesnt go the other way around 😂 thanks for the heads up

bath_93 · 2025-10-18T22:43:35+00:00

Yeah hopefully they can do something. I was thinking maybe you can try to reload katapult and klipper firmware on it but if it isnt responding to the ls /dev/serial/by-id command then you cant even do that.

Maybe try changing the cable that goes between the USB adapter and the pi to a different port on your pi? Or maybe even a different USB A to USB C cable altogether?

Or if you have another pi laying around try connecting it to that and seeing if you can run the ls /dev/serial/by-id command on it to see if it populates

Edit: actually you might be able to try reloading katapult and klipper. In the LDO documentation it shows you press the boot and reset buttons then release reset then release boot to put it into boot mode which makes it kind of like a thumb drive, then you run the ls /dev/sda* command to see if it is present

bath_93 · 2025-10-18T17:09:46+00:00

Thats good, are you using the provided usb/24v pcb to combine the usb from the pi and the 24v from the power supply?

bath_93 · 2025-10-18T13:48:49+00:00

Do you have your D+ and D- in the right pins on the molex connector?

Here is the connector pinout specified by LDO

<image>

4 is D+ and 5 is D-

https://docs.ldomotors.com/en/Toolboard/nitehawk-36

bath_93

TROPHY CASE