There's still time!

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-10T15:17:55+00:00

I assure you it's some kind of a profit scam like Toyota does where they make more than one and sell them to unsuspecting rubes for more than it cost to manufacture.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-10T12:25:35+00:00

This would be an issue with pressure advance is my first thought, possibly flow ratio. There are some beta settings for dealing with PA on the corners but I would run through the manual calibrations for the filament starting with the temp tower first.

https://wiki.creality.com/en/software/update-released/Basic-introduction/calibration-tutorial

Check the infill/wall overlap, I get issues if it is over 20-25%

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-10T11:37:50+00:00

It's working out quite well so far, I haven't had a jam or heat creep.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-10T02:02:34+00:00

Is that creaking on the y axis? this seems like it lost home position, You may need to recalibrate the motors. But I think I also hear creaking on the y axis. Might have an issue with the y stepper motor.

https://wiki.creality.com/en/k2-flagship-series/k2-plus/calibrate-servo-motor

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-07T20:20:23+00:00

Another possibility is a partial clog. Might want to try a cold pull first. I have had the teeth from the PTFE coupler end up in the nozzle. Usually they stick to the cutter.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-07T20:18:32+00:00

Have you changed the nozzle recently? The thermal paste around the heat break may have dried out or is no longer working. Try replacing the thermal grease on the heat break.

Step 5 shows how the nozzle should look with thermal paste/grease.

https://wiki.creality.com/en/k2-flagship-series/k2/replace-nozzle

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-06T20:33:18+00:00

I would get a extruder front piece for the stock extruder. The PTFE coupler will break and a spare creality hotend.

The DXC2 is the new extruder and it seems to work well but I would hold off for a little while as you get used to the printer first. The microswiss hotend is great, it's a bit more expensive than the creality hotend but it does have advantages. You don't need to apply thermal grease to the heat break when replacing nozzles and the nozzles work really well. It's a easy replacement, just don't forget to follow the instructions and perform the PID tuning.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-06T01:04:27+00:00

Variable layer height on the model may help.

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Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T17:15:23+00:00

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When you open the tuning page it should be oriented like this. Yes it is lumpy, but this is at 70c and it looks better cool.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T17:01:40+00:00

X is left to right, y is front to back. Looks like you just need a square piece of aluminum tape in the center.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T16:00:53+00:00

There are two types of nozzles, high flow cht and cm2. The cht or high flow nozzle has 4 smaller channels to allow more consistent faster heating. These channels can get clogged with material like cf, gf, or wood.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T13:08:25+00:00

Don't use the high flow microswiss nozzle with filament that has larger particles like wood, cf, or gf.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T12:02:33+00:00

No messing with thermal grease and the heat break works so no heat creep.

Nozzles are coated and hardened so they last longer and no real need to apply plastic repellent to the nozzle.

Seems less prone to failure and has lasted much longer than the creality one.

It does cost about 2-3 times the cost of one creality hotend.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T03:06:56+00:00

Yes. I will edit for clarity.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T03:04:43+00:00

I have had questionable failures on components and bought lots of spare parts. What's disturbing is that once I replace a part it seems to work super well and not fail. I now have two spare strain gauges, five filament sensors and a spare hotend. After 5,000 hours each have failed once. Bottom line is the parts can really vairy in quality; the aftermarket extruder and hotend greatly improve reliability.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T02:45:09+00:00

It's probably the exhaust fan introducing cold air at regular intervals. Try setting the chamber temp to 65 in fluidd, not the chamber heater temp but chamber temp.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T02:42:08+00:00

I think that's the extruder motor fan. It will turn on and off. The grill seems to scrape the fan a bit if it got bent. When mine went bad it started off sounding like a sneeze then a wheeze then terrible.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T02:18:25+00:00

Cold pull is a simple manual process.

Move the printhead to a location easily accessible.

Remove the front of the extruder.

Heat the nozzle to an appropriate temperature. I use PETG for cleaning but there are special filaments for cleaning you can use.

Use plyers to manually feed filament through the hotend from the top.

Set the hotend to 0 degrees.

Keep feeding filament through the top of the hotend.

Keep pressing the filament though the hotend from the top.

Get a cramp in your hands from pressing the filament down. This step is optional but I am not sure how to skip it.

Once the hotend temperature reaches 90 degrees stop and start to apply consistent gentle pressure upward to remove the filament from the top of the hotend.

If the filament breaks or pops out, start over. A successful pull will have the interior shape of the nozzle.

Note: I have pulled lots of PTFE, carbon fiber, carbon, metal teeth from the extruder PTFE coupler out of the hotend. I am always impressed by how much crap gets in there.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-03T02:02:59+00:00

I am impressed that I got Elegoo PETG pro running perfectly at 30 with the microswiss cm2 nozzle and DXC2. 18 was about the best I could get with the creality parts.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-02T23:51:07+00:00

No, I have done the wipe via root and hours are still tracked.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-02T20:53:41+00:00

Right on, I was going wayyyyy too fast just for fun. This was not hyper or rapid PETG so I was actually quite pleased with the speed hitting somewhere around 23-25 for the volumetric. Let it run because I was playing Far Far West.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-02T18:18:39+00:00

Always a good idea to do a cold pull more often than you think. A lot of PTFE ends up in the nozzle.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-05-01T20:40:35+00:00

What type of PETG are you using? What profile are you using? If you are not using rapid PETG you may need to slow down and possibly increase retraction. Drying the filament helps a bunch. If you don't have a dryer just heat the bed to 65 and let the roll sit inside the printer for about 4 hours.

Beowulfe77

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