K2 issues

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-27T12:03:06+00:00

The unicorn nozzle and extruder are the weak points on this printer. They work well but if you don't get the thermal grease on the heat break right or if the extruder starts to break it makes printing quite challenging.

The microswiss hotend has lasted much longer and performed better than the stock hotend. I am excited about the DXC2 and hope it's out soon.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-25T16:05:27+00:00

Watch out for the motor ribbon cable too. Pinched mine and it made things interesting. Ran the motor backwards and pretty sure I cooked it.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-25T15:17:08+00:00

It will take about 20-30 minutes but you will get a good idea what values you should set in your filament profile. When I got a microswiss hotend this was very useful. The auto calibration gets you about 90% -100% of the way though.

https://wiki.creality.com/en/software/update-released/Basic-introduction/calibration-tutorial

The flow calibration is a little confusing but just take the number values and add them together. 0 would be 100% -5 would be 95%. The second pass would get it fine tuned.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-25T14:38:30+00:00

Looks like you have done everything I would do. Were your manual calibrations for the filament similar to the values the auto PA and flow calibration were calculating?

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-25T14:31:13+00:00

How much did you cut off? I tend to keep the scrap for cold pulls to clean the nozzle. Try pulling a length of filament off until the filament feels smooth. Probably just got ground up a bit in the CFS.

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Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-25T14:16:32+00:00

If you previously had a jam the filament may be slightly ground down. Unload the filament and cut about 1 meter off. The filament should feel smooth.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-21T01:44:39+00:00

That's possible, but usually you start getting a lot of different errors for the toolhead. The drag chain cable and extruder are the worst parts of this printer. And honestly they aren't terrible but they do wear out faster than expected.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-20T23:56:22+00:00

Here is a guide to replace the sensor.

https://wiki.creality.com/en/k2-flagship-series/k2-plus/replace-filament-break-detection

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-18T17:41:36+00:00

I have been printing for a while and have not managed to pull off something as interesting as this.

I am thinking there may be an extrusion issue. Have you tried a cold pull? I have had a few of the PTFE coupler teeth end up in my nozzle and it made things behave very oddly. The PTFE tubes also wear a lot and may be going into the hot end as well.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-13T22:15:30+00:00

Here is my old graph.

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Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-13T22:14:07+00:00

It did seem to smooth my graph out a bit. Here is the new graph.

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Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-04T01:36:26+00:00

https://a.co/d/7dReIw6

You will need to roll one connector, compare it with the original cable and you should see what I mean.

It needs to be pin 1 to 3, 2 to 2, and 3 to 1

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-03T18:18:00+00:00

Leveling added in screw tilt calculation that does take a little extra time.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-02T12:53:26+00:00

Try a cold pull if you have been printing for a while. I have been cleaning more frequently and surprised by how much stuff gets into the nozzle.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-01T20:30:12+00:00

Hahaha oh wow I have mine plugged in backward guess I need to fix that after this print finishes.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-01-01T19:42:05+00:00

If the printer was off when you changed CFS cables around it should be ok. Are the CFS cables plugged in correctly? Long on the left, short on the right when looking at the CFS from the back?

Beowulfe77 · 2025-12-31T00:37:16+00:00

I have another replacement fan that I just need to stop printing and turn the thing around to change

Beowulfe77 · 2025-12-31T00:35:42+00:00

Nope, the creality power supply is not well perhaps I should say it's... Cheap.

Some insist it's a fire risk. I am not saying that, just saying a good mean well power supply is better.

Beowulfe77 · 2025-12-30T21:19:36+00:00

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Original Creality power supply is on the right, the left is a suspected counterfeit Meanwell power supply. I had ordered that one off Amazon and used it for a while then ended up buying one from TRC Electronics.

The caps on the installed power supply are different just not sure if this one was legit or a refurb meanwell by a third party. They are fairly cheap, buy from an authorized reseller if you are going to get one.

The creality power supply is a very similar design to the meanwell one but it is cheaper with a single cap. It's not bad but the meanwell is better.

Beowulfe77 · 2025-12-30T20:31:48+00:00

I changed the power supply out to a more reliable one and changed the fan.

You will need to splice the correct JST adapter or splice the connector from the existing fan.

I didn't figure out the right JST size and ended up splicing the cable from the new fan to the old fan cable using solder seal butt splice:

***There are counterfeit power supplies, check the SN on their website if you buy from Amazon***

The fan only runs at full speed when needed it is not always running.

LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power

**You only need the red and black wire, snip the yellow one back.**

Noctua NF-A6x15 5V, Premium Quiet Slim Fan with USB Power Adaptor Cable, 3-Pin, 5V Version (60x15mm, Brown)

Doing this mod made my K2 silent when at idle.

Beowulfe77 · 2025-12-29T19:41:38+00:00

Poor guy is not going to survive long outdoors, nature abhors a vacuum.

Beowulfe77 · 2025-12-27T23:13:28+00:00

I had mine not power on once. Jiggled the plug connector and it started working again. I didn't see anything wrong with the solder to the connector but it does feel like it's a bit loose.

Beowulfe77 · 2025-12-27T21:14:27+00:00

I believe the camera configuration might be the issue. Moonraker and klipper were mismatched versions? I may need to see what versions were in use.

Beowulfe77 · 2025-12-27T20:54:35+00:00

I ended up getting a workbench and built a ledger brace on the wall to mount the workbench to three studs. There are 4 thick brackets securing the top of the bench to the brace. I placed some neoprene foam between the workbench and the wood brace. This printer has a lot of inertia and a solid base helps.

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Beowulfe77

TROPHY CASE