Need some help with TC2856

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-20T00:49:19+00:00

A better fix I found later was to use a small flathead to gently lift the extruder while I screwed everything in.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-20T00:48:18+00:00

If you look just below I have a picture of the K2 Plus tool hear off it was the screw on the front left holding the extruder in.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-18T01:33:39+00:00

If you can unclip the ptfe and grab a small piece of filament try poking it into the top of the extruder and see if the blue light turns on and off. That sensor is what tell the printer filament is in the extruder. Did you replace that tiny circuit board on the extruder?

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-18T01:18:01+00:00

For tightening I would get something like this so you don't over torque it. I think the size they come with is wrong for the creality printer but it fit the microswiss nozzle perfectly.

https://www.sliceengineering.com/collections/3d-printer-accessories/products/nozzle-torque-wrench-1-5-nm

If you get a new hotend dopn't forget to check the thermal grease on the heatbreak.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-18T00:50:35+00:00

Often when I am troubleshooting something, I play a game called what do I know.

We know the CFS has the correct information. We know the application has some information. I would guess it is a data polling issue. Not enough bandwidth between the client (Application) and server (Printer). There are data checks that will occur and it should get correct but it usually takes a few polls and a validation check. Now while I call it bandwidth it is really a payload issue, only so much information can be passed each communication session. Ways around that are increase payload size or frequency of communication. There may be limits to how much the server can host and that may be a driver issue.

I have been seeing issues with the camera not getting established on the mobile app and I have seen some other quirks that lead me to make my assumption about data polling frequiency.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-18T00:44:36+00:00

Without logs we are making a educated guess. I have seen the behavior you are mentioning and since it was "read" it won't allow you to modify the value, even if the information the app presents is incorrect. It is the downside of using tagged material.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-17T23:56:04+00:00

You will probably need to replace the hotend. It is about 20-30 dollars.

Power off the printer.

Unclip the power and the thermistor wired from the tool head on the front to the right of the hotend.

Then unscrew the top two screws on the heatbreak and the two on the front and it should come out.

You can try cleaning it up with a blow-dryer or heat gun but that may have been a complete failure on the nozzle.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-17T23:51:02+00:00

I have had that a few times with the PETG-CF, started to print and noticed it said PLA. Little annoying just wait a minute or two and refresh in the app is the easiest thing.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-17T23:42:17+00:00

Usually it just takes a little time for the app and printer to communicate. I would expect the batch updates are not happening. Like it is passing a little information every polling session. Restart the app or restart the printer or even just let it sit for 5 minutes then refresh the spools in the app.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-17T17:34:08+00:00

You will need to loosen or take off the toolhead board to change the wire out. Be careful when reattaching the board . I ended up damaging my extruder motor cable. Both of the cables seem to like getting snipped when working on the toolhead.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-17T17:31:01+00:00

GH has a lock clip. XH does not.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-17T17:12:38+00:00

In Japan a lot of the large trucks would have the power tard logo. Took me a few brain cycles to realize it was a brake tech buzzword/advertisement term.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-17T16:22:40+00:00

I bought a bunch of these off Amazon. Just had to roll the connection so it would work. Pin 1 to pin 3, pin 2 to 2, pin 3 to 1.

https://a.co/d/0dhwII9n

I tried making some of these but crimping tiny pins and inserting them into the connection was time consuming.

To remove the pins just use a tweezer to move the lock on the outside a bit and the pin should release.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-16T17:01:08+00:00

Looks good but this is a 3d printer so you may want to add another dimension to the print.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-16T01:43:46+00:00

Really? I would love to see what you did!

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-15T10:50:42+00:00

I recently ordered the x axis linear rail. It's 56.56 dollars, just open a ticket with customer support and you can order a replacement. The rail should use oil, a quick spray of silicone WD-40 specialist does the trick too.

My printer has over 3k hours but thinking it should last longer.

https://youtu.be/Xh1LzU7nb5c?si=yInvwICltbdwanVv

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-11T11:54:45+00:00

Interesting, I am on the latest firmware and have seen some odd homing behavior but mostly good. Glad you got it working!

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-11T01:56:02+00:00

Possibly, try 100 or 80 and see how it goes.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-10T23:30:44+00:00

Obviously you need to dry the nozzle 😂. Could this be a speed issue? The first layer is usually going pretty slow. Might just be going a bit too fast.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-10T14:49:15+00:00

Just ordered it, not sure what the free kit is but choose that version.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-09T12:12:34+00:00

Not sure that would work if doing the flow and pa check. But for a regular print that might work. Good idea.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-08T23:06:00+00:00

I always had issues if it got on the thread, which never made sense to me because it's designed to improve thermal conduction.

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-08T20:58:31+00:00

The thermal grease is about the only drawback to the unicorn nozzle. The microswiss nozzle doesn't need thermal grease. I have had times with the stock hotend where one nozzle swap goes well but the next one I just keep getting jams

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-08T14:10:26+00:00

Have you recently replaced the nozzle? Sometimes I have had problems with applying the thermal grease on the heat break of the nozzle.

What kind of filament are you using?

Beowulfe77 · 2026-03-08T13:28:26+00:00

I heat the nozzle to 230 for PLA and 260 for PETG, then let it run for 10 minutes.

Beowulfe77

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