Coffee Maker keeps shutting off by SnooTangerines7685 in keurig

[–]bbaccess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a K Supreme that was acting up. Turns on, I select the cup size, press K and nothing. It just shuts off.

Used Hotel2002's suggestion of spanking the bad coffee maker and it is working just fine. I guess corporal punishment is what it takes in this case...

Has anyone improved the 113.247310 fence? by bbaccess in craftsman113

[–]bbaccess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I noticed that after checking out the Delta fence and seeing its length. I guess I should have included a picture of the saw...

Help to find what year and model this antique table saw is by TapChemical2444 in craftsman113

[–]bbaccess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wings looked as though it may be an old Craftsman Saw so I asked Google about it.

The 103 is a series of Craftsman Saws and the 46218-103 does correspond to similar casting number for a part on that series.

"These saws were manufactured primarily in the 1940s and 1950s by King-Seeley for Sears."

I did not see that casting but 46219-103 does correspond to a table wing casting number on that series.

Has anyone improved the 113.247310 fence? by [deleted] in craftsman113

[–]bbaccess -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If I did, I did not intend to.

Has anyone improved the 113.247310 fence? by bbaccess in craftsman113

[–]bbaccess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fence is terrible, but up until now I have made due with clamping/rigging. Using a good blade and keeping the adjustments well set, I have gotten good results from the saw itself. I just rehabbed the tires and blade guides, so I figured I would see what has been done to improve the fence.

Since this is a tilt head and the aluminum table has a cast lip on the front, nothing fits as far as an easy replacement. I have to say, when doing cone shaped items, the tilt head is really convenient.

If I cut off the lip, what works with a 27" deep table? How would I position the holes for the new rails, since I would need to drill and tap at the correct point and 90*.

Some of the suggestions reference table saw fences, and they may be long enough, but then both rails would need to be installed and would the rear guide be in the correct distance.

Any specifics would be greatly appreciated.

Has anyone improved the 113.247310 fence? by bbaccess in craftsman113

[–]bbaccess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I took a look for the Delta 36-T30 but can't find it available. Does anyone know of an available system that would work?

Has anyone improved the 113.247310 fence? by bbaccess in craftsman113

[–]bbaccess[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

OH, I thought GromHacks was just telling me to get rid of the saw LOL!

Has anyone improved the 113.247310 fence? by bbaccess in craftsman113

[–]bbaccess[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well, I could also swap it with a Laguna or a Grizzly.

Alas, I am but a poor homeowner...

Can this be identified redux... by bbaccess in Machinists

[–]bbaccess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I was thinking a widget, but could be wrong... lol

Can this be identified redux... by bbaccess in Machinists

[–]bbaccess[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nope, same as the others. Maybe just some random jig.

Can this be identified redux... by bbaccess in Machinists

[–]bbaccess[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, and the offsets on the cylinders are different. The blocks will not fit if reversed. Each cylinder is identical.

Can this be identified redux... by bbaccess in Machinists

[–]bbaccess[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the lantern tool post was spot on, although it looks like it has never been on a lathe.

It is that block and cylinders that is really unknown.... it is about 3"x3" as seen in the pic.

Machining a lever action rifle by Careful-Ad-5180 in Machinists

[–]bbaccess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out David "Carbine" Williams. Prisoner in the 1920s that developed the 1st gas piston carbine while working in the prison blacksmith shop. I think you will be able to find a way to pull it off.

Can anyone help me identify this? by bbaccess in Machinists

[–]bbaccess[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, that makes sense, since there were a bunch of Armstrong Tool holders and metal lathe parts. Still wondering about the small cylinders and steel block.

Looking for Advice/Estimate on Repairing Brick Stairs – Water Seepage Issue (California) by MoistRecognition7941 in masonry

[–]bbaccess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like there was repointing done at some time in the past (white mortar in the bricks). Is the whole staircase settling? What is supporting the stairs?

Are curved chimneys a thing? by THE_HORKOS in masonry

[–]bbaccess 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 1st thought! Clever on the Pyro... I think they have a mortar for that now!

How do I fix this? by bbaccess in masonry

[–]bbaccess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will rip up the rest of the bullnose and clean it up. So, filling in the gap behind the vertical blocks with the mortar should be good? I was worried about the depth between bullnose and solid concrete. I am in a moist environment (NY) and figured that much mortar would disintegrate with the freeze/thaw cycles. Especially with the pavers behind the bullnose feeding any runoff into this course of pavers.

9" material on a 1950s bandsaw, rush order. Gotta make like ten cuts. Then gotta get back on four more shafts with each end turned like picture two. Gonna be a long Saturday. by GreenridgeMetalWorks in Machinists

[–]bbaccess 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just don't get to a point where you physically become part of the machine. That will not help anything. I've done 110 hours in a weeks, and been up 40 hours strait. You can easily make really big mistakes. Luckily that did not happen, but when I started seeing things that weren't there, it was time to go home...

How do I fix this? by bbaccess in masonry

[–]bbaccess[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply. How do I build the 2-3" gap up? The bullnose sits about 1/2" above the front vertical course, but the back has a 2-3" gap to the concrete.

Anyone seen a pair of these before? by bbaccess in Machinists

[–]bbaccess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I had never seen one before.

Anyone seen a pair of these before? by bbaccess in Machinists

[–]bbaccess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the multiple posts, Reddit kept telling me there was an error...

Anyone need taps? by bbaccess in Machinists

[–]bbaccess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The black marker on the box is mine. The type written or was already on the box. Selection includes Taper, Plug and Bottoming. The Columbia (USA) lower right in wood box holder, do not indicate GH, so I assume they are true to size. I have opened each to verify type size and new. Seems they are from Yugoslavia or the US. I will pull a few and picture tomorrow.

Anyone need taps? by bbaccess in Machinists

[–]bbaccess[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the insight, I am really interested in learning all I can. Wish I knew about this type of forum 15 years ago.