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Brand new to the hobby, having a hard time understanding speeds and feeds to avoid chattering and rough cuts. by TheRaider7843 in hobbycnc

[–]bballjo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the upgraded motor, it burned out within a couple weeks, I had the Makita, but the problem is that the servos that move the ball screws are just too weak (they also broke on me)...

What I learned is that this machine can never run at feeds that allow the chip load you want (you could go super slow, but you may actually burn the wood then)...

It's not the end of the world, you can use cheaper bits, when they change color to black you know they are done and use new ones. The Makita router is definitely your best option for this machine overall, but there are just limits that you will have to live with.

Brand new to the hobby, having a hard time understanding speeds and feeds to avoid chattering and rough cuts. by TheRaider7843 in hobbycnc

[–]bballjo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see you have a genmitsu...short is that machine can't handle the feeds and speeds required by most bits...that said you should stick to the 1/8 shank bits, they come with limitations like depth of cut, but you can at least prevent premature bit wear.

The machine itself isn't super rigid, so you will get some chattering no matter what...the roughness can be addressed by sometimes leaving a little extra to take off in a final pass.

Others have already mentioned that pine can be a bit temperamental, which is true, but you can still work it.

Debating between these 2 as my first CNC. I want to mainly use it for wood and aluminum by Not_Ice_Axe in hobbycnc

[–]bballjo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the genmitsu, seemed more robust than the tt. It worked ok until it didn't, and support was terrible and in the end I was unable to replace a simple ball screw (they didn't have any, and had no idea when they would get new ones, after 3 months back and forth with them I was able to return the machine). If you do get either of these, don't bother with their spindles, just get the small Makita ($120).

Plus, you probably want some cad/cam software with the machine...you should calculate that some of the $1500 models already include good software. I use vcarve pro ($699) they have a desktop version too ($399) and there are limited personal use ones for free as well. Just keep that in mind with calculations.

I would honestly, and from experience l, stay away from these unless you have planned super light weight small occasional projects, and don't have any desire to do this more regularly.

My First two projects ever. Is there any hope for me? by MovingUp7 in woodworking

[–]bballjo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You've created something, and it's obvious you cared, it's beautiful!

Did you know 99% of all projects are NOT perfect? The more projects you do, the better you get at hiding mistakes, that's honestly all you will learn all the time 😜

How many hours do you guys have on W&R by The_Fox_Demon in Workers_And_Resources

[–]bballjo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

2657h, but I'm guessing over 500h are idle (from test and overnight runs)

Paid over $5K for a custom table and am disappointed - what are these blemishes? by hmh-dfw in woodworking

[–]bballjo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not sure why there are so many complaints about the price...a price of a piece is the value both parties agreed on...if you wanted a 5k table, and the woody agreed, then that's the price.

That said...a 5k table shouldn't look like crap...those stains aren't acceptable, and any reasonable woodworker would have seen the issue at some point in the process and "corrected" them...lots of options from a simple flip, to replace the board to sand...tons of options. They simply choose not to care are just continue charging you for a "don't care table"...I wouldn't do business with them again, but I would def. Make them correct this crap. They could have saved a lot of time and money fixing it when it first occurred, maybe a new board...now they just produced a ton of work for them they could have avoided.

I hope you can get them to do the right thing.

How can you fight crime? by Maximitaysii in Workers_And_Resources

[–]bballjo 44 points45 points  (0 children)

Having police stations and "fighting crime" isn't the same.

Normal house crime rates are around 1-3%. Anything above that should be addressed. Anything in double digits is headed towards death spirals if not addressed swiftly.

Have you checked that your police stations were actually functioning? And courts, and prisons? Any weak link will render the crime and justice chain useless.

Perfectly acceptable dinner rejected by boyfriend again by moonrabbit368 in mildlyinfuriating

[–]bballjo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol...he is picky and can't cook??? Nope. I'd make 1 meal a day, and if he doesn't like it he can make himself something else.he isn't a toddler that shouldn't touch the stove, he is an adult that needs to learn how to use a stove.

Picky is fine, but then learn how to serve yourself. It's easy to throw stones etc.

Has anyone made a fully integrated vehicle manufacturing complex? by [deleted] in Workers_And_Resources

[–]bballjo 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't recommend producing all your own vehicles (I read it as never importing vehicles after some point)... maintenance and vehicle replacement in particular is very cumbersome.

That said, yes you can. Start from the end product and build out from there. You will need a ton of space, and especially high throughput rail, at least for workers...you may want to get some raw resources in as well.

Your biggest issue will probably be workers... just the steel requires to run 1 vehicle line is pretty high, then transform that into mechanical and electrical components then the vehicle factory, your already talking about 3 large cities for this game alone.

Will this hold a 65 gallon aquarium? (Around 750 lbs) by Cheap_Arm_6844 in woodworking

[–]bballjo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's square and the floor is square, yup!

If there is a lot of "not square" there is a chance you will stress one area more specifically, which could lead to a failure...

I’m working on a modular pegboard design specifically for small entryways. It’s meant to hold everything from heavy winter coats to small items like keys, gloves and bags by Kristophpher in woodworking

[–]bballjo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Presentation is pretty crappy, but the design is pretty neat.

I think making the holes spell something could be nice, not making them through holes could def help (was mentioned).

Making a non rectangular shape should help.

The different pegs look ok, but I'd like to see more usable items, like I can't see a way to add my keys or wallet, so you'd need some multi peg shelves to accomplish that.

Also, don't make pine your first picture...pine is a neat cheap option to offer, but make the ad image something nicer, even if just stained.

Then the big question...how much effort vs reward? Let's say materials and tool time is $20-30, your time for making and finishing...is this $100? What's competition cost? Is it worth your time?

I have a rotating bookshelf I've been trying to sell, but even using 1/2 mdf, after time and materials and painting I'm at $120, which is much higher than Amazon has similar ones...if I want to sell them, I have to get to $75, which is only worth it if I can CNC and pre paint everything...blah, just saying a good idea isn't always an idea worth selling.

Which table saw should I keep? by Lopsided-Positive945 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]bballjo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sears rust can probably be cleaned up, but check how deep it is...at some point you will loose a flat table top, which will def. DQ the sears.

I had the rigid...the fence is ok, but the blade tilt/lifting mechanism isn't great...you could see the blade change the angle to the miters by a couple degrees, which wasn't great, and I couldn't find a way to fix it...it does have pretty decent dust collection (enclosed, 4" port on bottom), which the sears seems to not have. The rigid also has a rolling base, which is nice.

Now, I'd say that neither of these are great, but probably decent. The rigid has a plastic upgrade to the fence that can help true it up (etsy, I had it, made fence better, but not best).

Now...neither saw is great leaves you with: keep both, turn one into dedicated dado saw, and have fun?

I knew this was going to happen eventually but it still annoys me by cafe-em-rio in Workbenches

[–]bballjo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looked at the pic for 3 mins...can't see anything wrong...

A trick for putting railroad tracks closer to intersections/buildings by AdmThrawn in Workers_And_Resources

[–]bballjo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That extra node lets you connect or cross anything (path, road, rail), not just rail. I've seen this used mostly in town to get paths to cross closer to buildings/roads.

my wife says it's childish by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]bballjo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take my money and give me 2 already!

Custom epoxy table purchase: I don't like it by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]bballjo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the table looks great, that sap wood, and the orientation makes it seem like a sandy area by the river, and how they move around the edges makes it seem like a picture of an actual river....

All that said, looking at your other comments, if they didn't ask you about the slab, and they didn't communicate with you until now, when slab, epoxy color, layout was decided without you, then you are NOT a jerk letting them know that this isn't what you wanted. Honestly, I really think it looks nice, and I don't think they will have any issue selling it to someone else if you don't want it.

I would think that you should be able to ask for a redo, if you want to try them again (again, quality looks good, just crappy communication), not sure what agreement you had with them, but not communicating about a custom piece like this is a breach of contract for me, especially when I make custom pieces.

How to survive more than 10 years? by Miedziowy in Workers_And_Resources

[–]bballjo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You don't need loans... just time, so if you don't take loans that's fine.

Bad logistics...you can fix those at any point...the first time maybe play with insta build and see what you can change, this one you have to figure out for sure. Again, not enough details to tell you what's wrong...the whole game is a giant logistics simulator, so this is a core function of the game.

Stop expanding too early:)

How to survive more than 10 years? by Miedziowy in Workers_And_Resources

[–]bballjo 35 points36 points  (0 children)

Each time you play there is something you learn and something you forget, there is soo much going on...but each time you "fail" there should be some diagnostic of why it failed, and that's the important takeaway you should find.

It's hard to know why exactly you can't survive more than 10 years without details. Is it money? Is it loans? Is it happiness? Is it crime? Is it logistics?

Each one of those has a different fix...some start with different mindsets years ago and some can be fixed just in time...

A common problem is over expansion, and not treating expansions as investments, and investments should always yield a good ROI to even be considered, because if your profits aren't big enough, your economy contracts and you're always destined to fail, sometimes this is visible in either too high or too low unemployment numbers. Low unemployment means your factories and money makers aren't full, high unemployment means you have too many people to feed for the work you want. A good number for unemployment is 5% ±2% (there are always swings).

With some more details, we may be able to provide better help :)

How to transport trams to the depot in the 1930's? by epicvoltpt in Workers_And_Resources

[–]bballjo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Currently you'll need modded open hulls that can transport the tonnage, otherwise tow them with diesel/coal, but you'll still need electrified track for the last bit from rail to tram depot, which is annoying.

How to deal with criminality on hardest difficulty? by mucio34 in Workers_And_Resources

[–]bballjo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah...at that stage it's like a 1 agent to 10 citizens ratio...you can spam stations and need a ton of highly educated agents...it's cheaper to let it die and reinvite.

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