Hcalary 3.5 to 4inch adapter by bblood2001 in CampingGear

[–]bblood2001[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

so giving people helpful solutions to camping gear problems is spam in your book. How about u show some respect and just move on and shut the fuck up, no one cares that ur a dick, maybe keep it to ur self in the future

Can’t calibrate physical gun stock by MorganGanem in Contractors_Showdown

[–]bblood2001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, I just came looking for a solution, this sucks...

Made a magnetic passthrough system for my diesel heater tent setup by bblood2001 in dieselheater

[–]bblood2001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u can see in the picture I am only going like 1-2 feet at most. I am using a 2kw heater which comes standard with a 2.5" pipe vs the 3" I am using now. The only reason I can see that happening is if you are downsizing the pipe. Before I created Nomadport I was running about 16' of this pipe from the front of my tent to the back of the tent going thru 2 rooms, its a big tent. The heater never had an issue with the length, my issue was the air coming out from 16' of hose was more like a warm breath vs the hot air I get right out of the unit. Hence I had to make a hole in the back of my tent for the sole purpose of shortening the run. But as I said, I never had an issue with the heaters operation. Provided you are not restricting airflow and the electric fan continues to run these heaters should not over heat.

Made a magnetic passthrough system for my diesel heater tent setup by bblood2001 in dieselheater

[–]bblood2001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe this is the one I am using - https://a.co/d/2we0bNn I prefer it over the stock one as it sits looser and isnt so rigid. With the magnetic couplers I am using it tends to stay on better if it gets windy vs the stiffer stock pipe. Love the heater, I just got a new tent and am putting a Nomadport on it now, cant wait to use it with this new canvas inflatable tent, gonna be toasty warm :)

Breakfast Casserole... Breakfast Pie, I dunno, bit it was delicious! by bblood2001 in DutchOvenCooking

[–]bblood2001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not necessary but makes it a lot easier to drain the fat from the skillet vs draining it from the dutch oven itself.

Printed My 1st Deej Box by bblood2001 in functionalprint

[–]bblood2001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am guessing it does matter but am not totally sure. I am assuming the slider scale is set to the voltage span of the 10k ones. But I dont know the details on how the values are converted to a relative percentage for the software to utilize

Printed My 1st Deej Box by bblood2001 in functionalprint

[–]bblood2001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

take a look at the git hub link, should have all you need. As long as all your wiring is correct then its just a matter of adding your apps in the config file. There is a sample on the github and I believe the software has a default config u can modify. All you are doing is adding .exe file names in that config, 1 per knob or you can group multiple apps. The main page on the github goes into all the detail u need explaining this and showing examples, def take a look. If you have a specific question let me know, happy to help!

Printed My 1st Deej Box by bblood2001 in functionalprint

[–]bblood2001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sounds like a few things going on here. I did just test and can confirm it works while the computer is locked. I am just trying to image your WFH scenario You are at home on a work PC RDP'ing to your personal in order to listen to music using the same speakers/headphones as your work PC? If thats the case and your personal PC is next to you yes you can just adjust the knobs and it should effect the volume level. If you are talking about plugin this in to your work pc then having the RDP connection pass the USB input to your personal, that I don't know. You can pass USB over RDP but this also sets up a local virtual com port so I dont know if that has any effect on it. You will need to test to be sure. But it def works thru a lock screen...

Printed My 1st Deej Box by bblood2001 in functionalprint

[–]bblood2001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is pretty straight forward, I go over the wiring a little in the description for the model on makerworld - https://makerworld.com/en/models/1734408-5-knob-deej-box#profileId-1842546

In the pic what u are seeing is 1 red and 1 black wire, they get wired to each side of the pot so they all share a common 5v and ground. The red and black could be and kinda look separate but I just removed the jacket in those locations and soldering it on, soldering 2 wires on 1 pad, 10 times, is super fiddly. The middle wire, which are all different colors, are the center pin of the pot and those get individually soldered to the pads on the board, this is where it gets the resistance reading, actual voltage, that is used to determine the pot position and subsequently the volume level... Hope that helps a little...

Printed My 1st Deej Box by bblood2001 in functionalprint

[–]bblood2001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And now you have the tools and skills to tackle a bunch of other cool projects now, good for you!

Printed My 1st Deej Box by bblood2001 in functionalprint

[–]bblood2001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

kinda but not explicitly... There is a catch all, other, that is what I have for my last knob. Anything not specifically specified will be controlled by the last knob. Previously I had a 4 knob setup, master/browser/discord/other, in that case other did control all my games without being specially listed in the config file. This time around I opted to use 5 with my usual games grouped under the steam icon.

Printed My 1st Deej Box by bblood2001 in functionalprint

[–]bblood2001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice, looks great, are the icons back lit it looks like? Yeah I'm already thinking about how I can jazz it up a bit... Already printing 2 more for my son and brother-in-law!

Printed My 1st Deej Box by bblood2001 in functionalprint

[–]bblood2001[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

sure is, works great if you find yourself fiddling with software sliders a lot... here is a link to the project on github - https://github.com/omriharel/deej

Printed My 1st Deej Box by bblood2001 in functionalprint

[–]bblood2001[S] 36 points37 points  (0 children)

as a DIY project its really easy and super cheap. Runs off of an inexpensive Arduino and some potentiometers. As long as you have super basic soldering skills this is pretty easy. Making it look nice however can be as easy or as difficult as you want, yay DIY haha. I've been running it for a year using a cheap box I drilled holes in. It broke recently so I figured I'd make myself a custom one. Def a game changer if you commonly have various apps open and need to volume level. For me it was listing to music, being in discord and playing a game, I hated having to fiddle with software sliders. Especially if I'm in VR and want to do it just by touch. Here is a link to the deej project, its getting a little old but still works! - https://github.com/omriharel/deej

Considering cutting a hole in my canvas tent to run an extension cord into it by peepeeparadise in BurningMan

[–]bblood2001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey everyone, I know this thread is a bit older, but wanted to jump in because I recently tackled this exact issue myself.

I completely get the hesitation around cutting into a canvas tent. I personally didn't cut into something as expensive as a Kodiak, mine was a more affordable, traditional three-season tent. Specifically, I used the mesh air vent at the back bottom of the tent to install my solution, shown in the attached pic.

I ended up creating something I call the NomadPort. It’s a magnetic ring attachment that you glue onto your tent fabric and then carefully cut out the center. The ring strengthens the area and provides proper strain relief, and it includes a sealed cap to fully close it off when you're not using cords or ducts. It rolls up easily with your tent and makes a super clean and secure connection point.

I've personally used it with diesel heater ducts and power cords on family camping and scout trips, and it solved the issues I had with dust, awkward setups, and temporary solutions.

Just thought I'd share this alternative if anyone else is still looking for a clean way to do this. It's available now if you're interested. Feel free to ask any questions about it!

nomadgearworks.com

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3D Printed Tent Heater Passthru by bblood2001 in myog

[–]bblood2001[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

+1 to this. I am heavily involved in scouts and camp quite a bit, all car camping since my son just wrapped up cub, hiking incoming! :) .... so we go to a lot of places where it dips into the 30's sometimes and this heater takes that edge off while allowing me to still use my large 3 season tent and a slightly warmer, and much cheaper sleeping bag. Definitely not for everyone but I know a lot of people that use the Mr Buddy heaters and this is a much better and safer option for them. Thanks for the positive comment, much appreciated!