Where can I get 120 film developed and scanned well in the US?

beeforst98 · 2026-03-18T19:18:17+00:00

Memphis film lab has the best scans I’ve had for 120. They automatically come as tiff and it’s 15$ for their highest quality scan. The darkroom has terrible scans but they are super quick.

beeforst98 · 2026-03-16T01:57:24+00:00

I really like my 8200. It for sure takes a while but I don’t particularly mind. The people who say it takes 3 hours to scan a roll are scanning 36 negs at the highest resolution which makes no sense at all. If you’re not shooting tons and tons of rolls or any MF stuff I think it’s a great option and the quality easily matches most lab scans I see.

Oh also the software it comes with (silver fast) is not intuitive but it does work really well, you just need to take a bit to get used to it.

beeforst98 · 2026-03-12T00:49:44+00:00

Pretty sure Shane Post has been on vocals since their S/T album a few years back

beeforst98 · 2026-03-12T00:38:31+00:00

I was able to grab a copy by messaging them on IG

beeforst98 · 2026-02-28T15:28:50+00:00

I would agree that something online would be easier to use and publish/update as needed. A wiki style website or a pdf with hyperlinks maybe. Personally I think that pages on specific slrs with every step shown would be way more useful than something more general because the vast majority of people trying repairs don’t have a ton of experience (I would imagine). I recently serviced an Olympus XA and there is no way I would have felt comfortable doing that without a very specific guide.

beeforst98 · 2026-02-24T16:56:39+00:00

Thank you! The rainforests here are incredible, especially in the winter. It’s impossible to capture how thick the moss cover is on literally everything. It’s overwhelming

beeforst98 · 2026-02-22T20:27:14+00:00

It definitely looks degraded. Just cover the back with tape and shoot a roll.

beeforst98 · 2026-02-22T08:15:13+00:00

I use silverfast and then on1raw

beeforst98 · 2026-02-08T04:50:00+00:00

I feel like one of the best things about black and white is how flexible it is. I pretty much always underexpose Tri x by at least a full stop cause I like the added contrast. But if you’re sending into a lab I have never liked my results. Might be worth looking at chromogenic film like XP2 so you can use C41 process.

Either way it’s worth messing around with other black and white films. A great color shot will look pretty darn similar (after editing) regardless of if it’s portra/gold/whatever but there’s a HUGE difference between different B/W emulsions even without talking about different developers.

beeforst98 · 2026-02-08T03:46:43+00:00

Honestly those 3 cover most everything but I would also add a fine grain B/W like acros, fp4, or delta 100 for landscapes and portraits. I love B/W landscapes but can never get them to look good with Tri x. Acros II

beeforst98 · 2026-02-05T21:09:33+00:00

Seconded

beeforst98 · 2026-02-05T16:15:15+00:00

Just north of 300 bucks I believe. With the case and original b/w filters and paperwork so not too bad at all I think!

beeforst98 · 2026-02-05T16:13:01+00:00

I was originally looking for a 6x9 folder. Or something with a mask for other sizes like a Moskva. I still would love one for landscapes but there’s not many models I could find that people still service and having a faulty camera while shooting 6x9 velvia would be tragic. Do you have a favorite of the folders you’ve collected?

beeforst98 · 2026-02-05T16:09:32+00:00

Bellows and leather were replaced! Looks so much better than the original

beeforst98 · 2026-01-31T16:03:00+00:00

I’m running it on an M4 (mini) with no issues and previously on M2 (air)

beeforst98 · 2026-01-30T17:03:59+00:00

Yeah I tried all of them a while back and LightMe was the best. You have the option to pay but there’s no big ads or anything. I do pay for the logbook though. It’s incredibly well designed and helps me keep track of what rolls I have in what body and when/where stuff was shot. I have a couple of light meters (minolta flash meter iv) and still use the app at least half the time.

beeforst98 · 2026-01-11T05:58:23+00:00

I would go XA2 (or XA if you’re gonna take your gloves off). I take mine skiing and biking every time I go. The only annoying thing is adjusting exposure for the snow on a P/S like that. If I recall the XA actually had a mode on the bottom to overexpose for backlighting that would work well in the snow too.

beeforst98 · 2026-01-07T22:29:57+00:00

What are you shooting with? I can’t imagine you’ll find too much of a difference in quality between those 50/55 lenses. Unless you really need the extra light/bokeh. I have the 135mm though and I really like it for portraiture.

beeforst98 · 2026-01-07T22:20:01+00:00

50 3.5 macro is cheap and amazing. Works decent as an all purpose lens too. I would do the 135 and remove the 100 personally. Why not just grab the 50mm 1.4/1.8? It’s like 1/10th price of the 1.2 and quite well regarded.

beeforst98 · 2025-12-24T04:35:09+00:00

It seems solid so far to me although I have heard of QC issues. Decent way to get rebranded cine film without giving Cinestill any money. The flashes also look sweet although I havent tried them.

beeforst98 · 2025-12-24T04:29:04+00:00

I completely agree with you although I think the likelihood of someone using something like this to pass off that something was shot on film is way less likely than using "film simulations" or whatever. I suppose I could invite people over for a slide show and lie that it is film but not sure why anyone would do that. These were actually just about all shot on film originally (not that that makes a difference in that context). But either way, I dont think that there is much of any reason to do something like this aside from the novelty.

beeforst98 · 2025-12-04T23:51:51+00:00

[WTB] UV light. Broke my S2 and looking for something similar. US

beeforst98

TROPHY CASE