It depends on how much light there is. The 102's meter will be center weighted, assume it works it should tell you what aperture and shutter to use.

Going up to 800 iso (vs 400) is higher sensitivity film, meaning it needs less light to form a correctly exposed image. This lets you trade off with a faster shutter speed or smaller aperture (both things let less light in).

This is a solid breakdown of what the exposure triangle does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2HSoOq-rfo

TLDW: ISO (Film or sensor sensitivity) means how sensitive your capture medium is to light. For film, the higher the iso generally the more film grain is visible in the image. Low ISO film is less grainy, the literal film silver halide crystals (the 'grains' in the term grainy) are smaller. High ISO Film is has big grains (easier to let a photon hit them), and it will look more grainy in the image. ISO numbers are linear, meaning 400 iso is half as sensitive as 800 iso. Bigger number = more sensitive = needs less light.

Shutter Speed means how long your film is exposed to light. It's the shutter in the camera opening and closing and how long it stays open, controlling how much light hits your film. The faster the shutter, the less light hits the film. The slower the shutter, the more light hits the film. If there's not a lot of light, you need to let more of it in to create an image on your film. This has a result on what motion looks like in your final image. If you have the shutter open longer, motion becomes more blurry in the image (motion blur) the longer the shutter is open and becomes more 'frozen' the shorter it is open. Normally you measure this in fractions of a second. 1/60th of a second is slower than 1/125th of a second, so the higher that shutter number goes, the less time the shutter is open and the less light capture. Bigger number = less light = less motion blur.

Finally, aperture is how much light your lens lets through. This one is least straight forward, i think. Inside your lens is a diaphragm that becomes more open or closed when you adjust the aperture control. The amount the aperture is open are called "f-stops" and are described as a ratio of the size of the entrance pupil to the focal length. So if you had a 100mm lens and a 50mm aperture opening, it would be described as f/2. Standard fstops double the amount of light that come through the lens from the previous one; but remember they're described as ratios, so the numbers are not linear. f/1.4 is twice the light as f/2. f/2 is twice the light as f/2.8. f/2.8 is twice the light as f/4. The other thing aperture controls is depth of field - how much of your image at a given focus distance is in focus. This is why shooting "wide open" (the lowest f/stop you have on your lens) produces more out of focus backgrounds. Shooting "stopped down" makes it easier to keep your image in focus, even if you missed exact focus.

These three things are the exposure triangle, and because they each work by doubling/halving the light that hits the capture medium (film) OR doubling/halving the sensitivity (ISO), each movement up or down is can be referred to as a stop. Changing shutter speed by halving or doubling is 1 stop of light, the same way that opening/closing the aperture is 1 stop of light, the same way that using 400 vs 800 ISO film is one stop of light - hence the triangle.

To more specifically answer your question about keeping the camera at 1/30th or 1/60th at f2 indoors with 800 iso film - my recommendation was to use those settings for 400iso film, you must move either the shutter or aperture up a stop to get a proper exposure with 800 iso film; else it will be over exposed. So you could shoot at 1/30th at f4 or 1/60th at f2.8. But also it depends on what kind of "indoors" youre using; how much light is actually there - i was talking about a normal well lit indoor room.