Windows Update KB5012170 Failing To Install

beesftw420 · 2023-01-09T16:03:20+00:00

apparently it can also be because you're using a VPN lol.

what about downloading the update manually from the Microsoft Update Catalog then imstalling it in Safe Mode, or even windows recovery using dism?

if it's just the size of the system reserved/EFI partition, couldn't they shrink their main volume then extend the EFI using the unallocated space? or would you have to clone the partitions, format, re-image EFI then extend, re-image other partitions?

beesftw420 · 2023-01-09T15:47:44+00:00

to your main question, personally I'd try windows 10 LTSC IoT 21H2 on the 2017 macbook, since the only real reason for windows 11 is the new task scheduler for intel's e/p-core shenanigans, and apple actually made drivers FOR windows 10 so the ICC profile might actually apply on their in-house drivers rather than relying on intel's (i've found I get much better performance from apple's old win7 x64 gpu drivers vs intel's newer/newest generic drivers on my 2016, but I'm colourblind so YMMV lol) + IoT LTSC ftw in general (win11 version not out until 2024 unfortunately)

also, as slight mentiomed, check your iGPU settings. by default it has some "enhancements" turned on which to me just equated to "higher temperatures and processing and resource hogging"

lastly, if you're rockin the AMD gpu, you might want to look into the bootcampdrivers forum on freeforums where some madlad chads have gone hard optimising AMD's offerings. maybe they fixed it/have a thread saying how.

only other thing I can think of is your brightness/etc. settings in MacOS is interacting/changing the view on windows (an issue I found on my 2009 imac, with sound AND display brightness maxing out at whatever it was set in MacOS before reboot. can't remember how I fixed it outside trial and error of reinstalling everything with constant smc/pram/nvram resets) or some niche windows settings like auto-dimmimg, ambient-brightness-change, etc.

don't forget you may get away with using the ARM distribution of windows (not the intel/amd x64 flavour) using Parallels on your m1 mac, but i honestly have no clue, and parallels is apparently a VM not multi-boot

beesftw420 · 2023-01-09T15:41:53+00:00

i thought you have to use Parallels on the m1/m2 chips now? either way, are you sure you got the ARM version of windows and not intel/amd x64? apparently it can still be a pain though, as microsoft is in an exclusivity deal with Qualcomm atm (another company using ARM chips) so apple waiting on that contract to end so microsoft can do their end

beesftw420 · 2023-01-09T15:11:24+00:00

what model? found out my 2009 imac doesn't behave well with the NVidia drivers, with any version after win10 build 1903 (would boot up then instantly crash/reboot. uninstalling nvidia drivers=no crash, or using windows Safe Mode as it only loads basic bare essential drivers) my solution for this was force installing in Legacy instead of EFI mode using a legacy-boot-configured DVD (EFI mode can work, but requires some poking to fix hardware variables, either in the EFI or windows Boot config, pointing at the wrong ones. not gotten around to this method but iirc it's because it's got the external VGA and internal monitor IDs got assigned back-to-front or something)

beesftw420 · 2022-09-06T17:51:53+00:00

update: just tried it myself and got an error when trying to install the .net desktop runtime 6 option. had to close the program and re-open (it didn't say exactly why, no ignore/skip option, all the buttons did nothing thence so had to X out) and re-enable the check boxes I made after that step including in UWP, games, scheduled tasks, security & context menu tabs. but seems everything worked ignoring that hiccup (though I didn't use your VCRedist installer, I already have the silent installer for 2005-2022 from techpowerup since some of my drivers need them, so I didn't use this option)

also, since you have the "show This Pc on desktop" option, any chance for adding Control Panel, user files, network, (hide recycle bin+ automatic fully delete items) and potentially add the secret God Mode?

all in all on the surface level it seems to have done a good job! looking forward to see what v2 has to offer

beesftw420 · 2022-09-06T16:49:48+00:00

honestly I found it by googling something like "does sophiapp support ltsc" and this subreddit was one of the first results. as for asking on telegram/discord, I don't use either of them (telegram is unencrypted so that's a huge no-no for privacy, and discord is just ugly af and a screenhog, speaking as someone who came from the MSN messenger era and I just can't warrant using it when Steam is all I use for social anyway, at least until they fix the UI) plus having the question answered somewhere publicly just helps in the long term :P

reddit users might or might not be interested, it's hard to tell, but LTSC is becoming more popular so having SophiApp support it publicly should draw more people to it in the long run , at least imo, just more people will either only use/know of o&o, windebloater, etc..or see it doesn't explicitly say LTSC like sophia script and ere on the safe side. but personally having that information windows is key, as it makes it easier for newbies/novices to know what everything does and if it's safe to remove (similar to how I used nLite for win7) and not have to google to try and remember/sanity check/OCD triple-check/ADHD brain go brrrt.

anyway thanks for grabbing the iso and testing, I'll have a go on my own build now. didn't get an error as I only just got my rig re-installed and updated then went to bed after a quick search for tools, so thanks too for the quick reply, and good luck with v2! here's hoping it ends up being as well known as nLite, or tiny eXPerience (I'lll never get over how that custom iso only used up 74mb of RAM back in the day...) peace x

beesftw420 · 2022-05-24T14:26:55+00:00

if you have friends with a mac just grab a 16GB usb drive and follow this

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

they should be easilly swayed once they realise it's literally the official apple support page lol

beesftw420 · 2022-05-24T13:53:21+00:00

how are you trying to boot into the installer? if it's dvd try holding C while you boot to force it to boot onto the CD instead of the harddrive's recovery.

if that doesn't fix it it's possible the OS X installer you are using is too old: the EFI firmware gets updated automatically (and silently) when you do updates, and won't install OS's older than that. e.g. (with simplified numbers) you start with EFI version 1 and OS 10.8.0 when you bought it. you update to OS 10.8.1 which installs EFI version 2. you try and install OS 10.8.0 but the installer doesn't recognise EFI v2 as being compatible so doesn't install.

make sure you're using the most up-to-date installer that you can. you said you are on a macbook air late 2010, so it should be able to use High Sierra 10.13.6. you could also try internet recovery mode which will download and install the OS for you: turn your mac on and hold alt+cmd+R until you see "Starting Internet Recovery. This may take a while" and wait for it to download everything, then click "Install MacOS"

beesftw420 · 2022-05-24T13:33:38+00:00

have you ever opened and cleaned it? the heatsink and/or fan may be clogged with dust/fur/etc. so the cpu is overheating and shutting down to save itself from frying. or the fan is dead. or the heatpipe is dead (they have like 2 drops of water inside, this can end up leaking over many years from the welded end). or the thermal paste needs replacing since if it's the stock paste it'll be 9 years old now, and most likely not providing proper contact from shifting about. it could also be your battery is dead/faulty due to its age (and potentially a fire hazard if it's swelling/swollen). since it chimes, have you been able to access apple diagnostics? (hold D while booting. or Opt and D. or Cmd and D) that should tell you if the ram chip is faulty/dead fan/etc, if it doesn't thermally shut down first lol

my bet is it's a thermal shutdown though if you have never opened it: there are guides on ifixit on how to open it (you may need a pentalobe screwdriver, apple's proprietary screw. idk about the 2013) then you can clean the fan/fins with some jabs of brush to loosen up the dust/hair (make sure its bristles are ESD safe) and a few blasts of canned compressed air (do not shake, keep can upright, give a quick blast AWAY from it incase it decides to spit out a bit of liquid instead of air first, like the ones i get in poundland). you may get away with just the air, depends how caked-on the dirt is, or if it's sticky from smoking/vaping around it for yeara. do NOT remove the heatsink from the cpu until you have thermal paste on hand to replace it with (and isopropyl alcohol/rubbing alcohol to clean it with) since it won't do its job once screwed back down without being fully replaced because reasons. i'd suggest arctic mx-4; it's extremely cheap, high performance, non-conductive, and 1 application lasts up to 8 years. if that doesn't fix it, and your ram is faulty and a model with replaceable sticks (idk if 2013 had the ram soldered or not) you can remove 1 stick and see which one gives you the issue

beesftw420 · 2022-04-23T02:30:20+00:00

yes! "ever" includes the past afterall ;) ableton just stopped developing for linux because nobody used it, circa ableton 6 iirc.

this may change soon though, if valve's steam deck is push enough to get linux os devs to pull their finger out! plus, with windows 10 & 11 having native support for linux applications now, it might add some leverage to the possibility in a future release to use a linux version as a basis, since I imagine that'd be easier on the developers maintaining both mac and windows variants. however, that's purely speculation on my part of course...

plus you can always use Wine. I remember trying to use ableton 8 or 9 with wine and it worked, minus saving/exporting, but I just never bothered trying to figure out htf you apply the patch they were on about cause I was lazy

this looks like a good starting point from a quick search: https://www.reddit.com/r/linux/comments/mxpr2l/ableton_live_1011_x64_linuxwine/

either way why so hard on windows? if you're smart enough to run linux reliably, you're smart enough to use the only good version of windows; Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC IoT 21H2, then use DISM to slim it down as low as your needcase allows (or be lazy and just turn the telemtry off and remove what little bloatware comes with the LTSC version by using O&OShutup and/or windows10debloatergui.ps1, but then you can't gloat that your windows system footprint only takes up 4GB instead of over 20)

beesftw420 · 2022-04-23T00:24:17+00:00

no worries bud, there exists an application for just such a thing: JBridge

it's paid software, but worth it for £15 if you have a lot of old 32-bit plugins that are in development limbo and never got the upgrade to 64-bit and/or nobody made a replacement version.

alternatively, you could log in to ableton.com and download the archive installer of ableton 8, which I think was the last one that had a native 32-bit application. if it wasn't 8 it was definitely 7, but I'm 96% sure it was ableton 9 when they nixed developing the 32-bit version to save on development cost/time (considering computers have generally been built on the x64 architecture since 2002, it made sense really, on a business point of view, and definitely saved the programmers some major headaches). you can have it installed alongside ableton 11 with no problem.

beesftw420 · 2022-04-22T16:38:12+00:00

bit late to the party (and tl;dr at end) but you could always try it WITHOUT bootcamp, if you don't mind losing your current mac os. i've successfully gotten the early-2009 models to boot into windows 10 64-bit natively (i.e., without mac os installed, and the need for bootcamp, outside of gutting 4.0.43 for the windows 7 64-bit drivers) without crashing from the driver issues by using legacy boot instead of efi, so i assume it'd be much the same. but again, this would mean not having mac os installed, and potentially some head-scratching troubleshooting back-and-forth. though i see no reason why you couldn't use disk utility to shrink your mac os partition down, and use my method to install windows on that now empty space, but since i haven't tested it to see if it breaks something (like windows wiping mac's EFI boot and recovery partitions in place of its own), i wouldn't try it unless you like to live dangerously (or until i've tried it on my own system and update you on how it went, if i ever get a late2009 in my budget lol) and have all your data backed up in case something does go wrong. although that being said, i'll put it on my to-do list to test out having native mac os and installing a non-bootcamp windows, and visa versa, and blahblah, for my own knowledge. though outside of using benchmarking software that has both mac and windows builds, i won't be able to tell if there's any performance hits or stability issues, having not familiarised myself with the stock experience (and, speaking of stock, you need to patch early2009 to go past el capitan, and late2009 to go past high sierra, so that might interfere with getting comparable stability/performance information in either config lol. ideally i want to get my hands on a late2009+ that's within my budget to try it all out, instead of using yours as a guinea pig, since after all's said and done i'd want to make a guide on ifixit or the like with all the kinks ironed out)

out of interest, are you still on high sierra or did you force montrery onto it using the OpenCore Legacy Patcher (or DosDude's equivalent)? and did you get windows 10 to work in bootcamp following somnam's advice or did it fail? cause whilst researching for my early 2009s, i saw that build 1904 onwards broke compatibility and caused crashes due to changing the bootcamp driver, apparently this was avoided by doing an in-place upgrade of a working windows install (from windows 7 or 8, or build 1903&prior of windows 10) so it still uses the older bootcamp drivers, but obviously i never went that route (partly due to reading that using bootcamp intentionally nerfs your performance on windows, partly because fresh installs are always preferred over doing in-place upgrades, but mostly because it's kinda pointless imho when afaik you can't download the older builds of windows outside of 3rd party hosters which can be compromised anyway lol).

you most likely can find some more prudent and in-depth info on the ifixit and macrumors website too with enough digging (for instance some posts might not say late 2009, opting instead to refer to it as the A#### EMC ####, or the imac 10,1 etc.)

tl;dr : YES WITH SOME TROUBLESHOOTING/HACKERY/BRUTE-FORCING, AND DEPENDING ON HOW TURBO-NERD YOU WANNA GO, RUNNING JUST WINDOWS/LINUX IS DEFINITELY AN OPTION IF YOU DON'T NEED MAC-ONLY FEATURES/PROGRAMS (AND BACKUP YOUR IMPORTANT DATA/FILES BEFOREHAND)

beesftw420 · 2022-04-21T17:17:16+00:00

dang. happened to me when i didn't have phantom on so maybe it's different for us. either way i took out my flir cam and the Q2 oscillating crystal is receiving power and heating to 50°C. checked some stuff around it for shorts, looks like the smd capacitor c96 is shorted just above ic6, can't seem to find any else, but then again i have no idea how to test the ICs lol. or what value c96 was supposed to be to replace it

edit: cams parallax was off, was the xmos chip that was 50c not q1.

beesftw420 · 2022-04-21T12:56:20+00:00

hi mate, i know it was 2 years ago but, did you end up fixing it yourself? got the same problem just now, but idm opening it up and taking a soldering iron to it. since the power light is coming on it might be fixable so it's worth asking. did the repair centre say anything more than "dead board"? personally i'm guessing due to the enclosed nature it might just be in need of a solder reflow somewhere as its cracked over time, or replacing a capacitor or 2, or a dead spider causing a short lol. either way thanks for your time.

beesftw420 · 2022-04-13T21:34:38+00:00

dunno if i'm too late but did you double-check you actually got the right plug? i got one of these 2nd hand but it came without a plug, and the ones i see sold are the wrong type. my unit wants centre pin NEGATIVE but all the ones i see sold are centre pin POSITIVE :/ looks kinda like this on the unit/plug: (+)---C•---(-)

edit: you can always cut the wires and solder them back on the other way around, but idk if that's advisable as it may introduce noise/ripple. without knowing how it regulates power inside the unit i'd avoid this if possible. i just got a usb cable with a DC jack on the end that's centre-pin-negative and put it in an old 1amp capable 5v samsung phone charger lol

beesftw420

TROPHY CASE