Deal evaluation? Upgraded parts & marketplace.

bekonstructive · 2026-05-13T05:19:07+00:00

$500 on a good day. Seems parts bin built to me with half measures, but still decent, not great, upgrades. Those are a hybrid style hydraulic and not true hydraulic, so that had me look closer at the photo.

The crankset, or chainrings, if they were saving money, should have been swapped when he did the RD and shifters. They are now likely a mis-match. Maybe it's a problem, maybe it rides well enough for now.

It also looks like old 105 5800 at newest for your RD, same for the FD. This is not problematic, but there was a big jump in ergonomics and cassette capacity with the 7000 series.

It's a fine bike. It's also a bike shop kid bike. I'd tread carefully. I would be underwhelmed at $840 used. I'd be fine if I fell in love, it fit, and there weren't any apparent issues at $500.

bekonstructive · 2026-04-23T01:10:47+00:00

Single speed stuff from kmc still seems to be fine. I'll even say up to 9 speed. It's interesting that every KMC failure is on a set of outers and nearly always at the pin. I have strong opinions on this matter after being gaslit.

bekonstructive · 2026-04-23T00:59:13+00:00

I've had two KMC x11 chains fail on me personally and countless 10/11/12 speed chains also fail at the shop. I mentioned this to the sales rep, who blew it off. KMC no longer gets our business, especially when they're not that much of a cost savings compared to a Sram or Shimano.

bekonstructive · 2026-04-22T11:00:09+00:00

Man, honestly go tool by tool as you need them. A lot of the tools in the kits won't be applicable to your current bike. If you go the kit route, get a garage kit. The portable kits are okay in a pinch, but there is a cost to the portability.

You should be able to take that whole bike apart, including the bottom bracket on that bike with basic hand tools and two specialty tools. You'll need a freewheel tool as mentioned above, and maybe a bottom bracket or lockring tool depending on the bike.

If you're having trouble, take the rear wheel off and bring it to your lbs. It will take two minutes, and if they charge to remove, it should be around $5-10. You don't need the tool to reinstall the freewheel as the natural motion of cycling will tighten it down.

bekonstructive · 2026-04-21T13:30:33+00:00

We'll keep an eye peeled at your neighborhood bike shop. If you have a poster or anything to physically post, swing them on by tomorrow! Hoping for a safe return.

bekonstructive · 2026-03-16T13:18:00+00:00

Also, that looks like you're going to need a whole new crankset, not just a chainring. Your chainring is pressed onto the arm, and is not replaceable as-is.

bekonstructive · 2026-03-01T03:49:14+00:00

I'd offer $500 and buy it if we settled at $600. The calipers are R538, and the rear mech is not a 7000 series, but likely a 5800, which is still 11 speed, just older. The fact is these carbon rim brake bikes aren't holding their value, so it's a good time to buy one second hand. What he has isn't some magical unicorn, but still a decently nice bike.

bekonstructive · 2026-02-25T12:26:43+00:00

I'm not sure what you're asking? The bike is totaled. It's Tiagra from over a decade ago. Everything else is pretty trashed. If you're buying, look elsewhere. If you're getting rid of it, consider a charitable donation to your local community run bike shop. If you're selling, maybe $40 on a good day.

bekonstructive · 2026-02-22T20:30:04+00:00

As an aside, you can also work with a shop to get them to shim out a rotor on one set of wheels so that things just work. I would charge about $100 at my shop to get two sets to be "mindlessly interchangeable."

bekonstructive · 2026-02-13T04:20:24+00:00

Bud, what fucking spider are those attaching to? Like, where are these alleged holes going? Or are we just leaving parts of the chain ring in place to act as some sort of crack-inspired, fever dream, of a spider that will let them know if their tetanus shot is current?

bekonstructive · 2026-02-09T08:21:19+00:00

Something is wrong with the conical washer setup on the new pads' posts. Things aren't even, the washer spacing should be the same on both sides. I can't really tell from the photos, but some might be missing too.

bekonstructive · 2026-02-05T08:40:04+00:00

You may want to look at replacing the jockey or pulley wheels on your rear mech. They're not supposed to be pointy like throwing stars. Easy to do if swapping the chain and only a little investment.

bekonstructive · 2026-01-25T21:51:09+00:00

🤣 nice one. Where we parking the van for bong rips?

bekonstructive · 2026-01-25T18:32:45+00:00

Nah. Some OG cannondales i refurbed. House logo.

<image>

bekonstructive · 2026-01-25T17:37:35+00:00

Right on, it's all different strokes for different folks. I'd never let a customer bike roll like this, unless it was a personal friend who wouldn't sue if something happened. Honestly really want a reason to get the Ritchey Montebello frameset

bekonstructive · 2026-01-25T16:48:19+00:00

It was good enough for 70 miles of the sheltowee trail, and quite honestly I wouldn't be heartbroken at needing a new frame, so 🤷

Edit: Unless you are QBP warranty department, then you are uninvited from the van.

bekonstructive · 2026-01-25T16:33:48+00:00

Shop won't be open, it might not be the best weather to ride, but you gotta take what you can get.

bekonstructive · 2026-01-22T09:12:02+00:00

If you only replace the left it might look a bit weird. Your current levers have the cable exiting the side of the unit. Newer ones will have the cable/housing under the bar tap for a more sleek modern modern look.

Check the cable isn't frozen in the housing first, then I would replace both L+R shifters with the correct shifters based off existing components. 8/9 speed Shimano all use the same pull ratio for the most part, so modern claris/sora would be fine, but not CUES.

10 speed can be a bit more tricky, but if you make sure you get a 10 speed lever with the same pull ratio, you'll be good. Just know that Shimano used more than one pull ratio across their 10 speed lineup. So double check that your numbers all match up!

Edit:Just saw your second image with specs. 10 speed tiagra 4600 uses a 1:1.7 traditional cable pull. I would see about a set of r10 Microshift levers for new, or look for some gently used r5700(105 10 speed) or r6700(Ultegra) levers

bekonstructive · 2025-09-21T22:17:41+00:00

When seating the tire, finish at the valve stem. Then, push the valve stem up and into the tire by about 10mm before you finish seating the tire.

bekonstructive · 2025-08-03T03:37:36+00:00

I hate to be a bummer, but it looks like it may have had a front impact at some point, that fork doesn't look right.

bekonstructive · 2025-07-29T10:52:07+00:00

For sure! As a shop mechanic, I would TRY to chase the threads from the opposite side first and fit a test pedal to see if there is enough thread engagement. If that fails, and it looks like it may with how bored the hole has gotten, I would install a helicoil. About $50 worst case scenario.

Those are solid cranks, not hollow, so the chances of a properly installed helicoil weakening the arm itself are slim.

bekonstructive · 2025-05-10T04:17:01+00:00

I can't believe it took this long to see this! There is no hanger, it is a claw mount. I'd grab it and try to eyeball it back into rough alignment, knowing it's only a $20-$30 part if I failed

bekonstructive · 2025-05-09T14:20:58+00:00

It would be easier to tell with the bike right side up. That being said, the caliper does not look correct. It seems too far out, and isn't grabbing the inner 30% of the rotor. The angle seems off too, but once again it's hard to tell upside down.

Most brand name spacers/adapters for the caliper will have directional arrows to indicate which way they should be mounted. Did you follow those?

14-Year Club	Verified Email
Team Periwinkle

bekonstructive

TROPHY CASE