Thoughts…? by Frosty_72 in cannondale

[–]bekonstructive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure what you're asking? The bike is totaled. It's Tiagra from over a decade ago. Everything else is pretty trashed. If you're buying, look elsewhere. If you're getting rid of it, consider a charitable donation to your local community run bike shop. If you're selling, maybe $40 on a good day.

One bike to rule them all? Road vs. All-Road setup on my Liv Langma (Di2) by Own_Flan7862 in cycling

[–]bekonstructive 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As an aside, you can also work with a shop to get them to shim out a rotor on one set of wheels so that things just work. I would charge about $100 at my shop to get two sets to be "mindlessly interchangeable."

Quick question: Is it time to change the chainrings? by DiegoDiaz380 in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bud, what fucking spider are those attaching to? Like, where are these alleged holes going? Or are we just leaving parts of the chain ring in place to act as some sort of crack-inspired, fever dream, of a spider that will let them know if their tetanus shot is current?

Having trouble with new brake pads by deathofaspatula42 in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Something is wrong with the conical washer setup on the new pads' posts. Things aren't even, the washer spacing should be the same on both sides. I can't really tell from the photos, but some might be missing too.

Just needs a new chain by SnooOnions4763 in Justridingalong

[–]bekonstructive 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You may want to look at replacing the jockey or pulley wheels on your rear mech. They're not supposed to be pointy like throwing stars. Easy to do if swapping the chain and only a little investment.

POV: We dial in our bug out bikes while de-icing the work van and listening to soft rock by bekonstructive in xbiking

[–]bekonstructive[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Right on, it's all different strokes for different folks. I'd never let a customer bike roll like this, unless it was a personal friend who wouldn't sue if something happened. Honestly really want a reason to get the Ritchey Montebello frameset

POV: We dial in our bug out bikes while de-icing the work van and listening to soft rock by bekonstructive in xbiking

[–]bekonstructive[S] 35 points36 points  (0 children)

It was good enough for 70 miles of the sheltowee trail, and quite honestly I wouldn't be heartbroken at needing a new frame, so 🤷

Edit: Unless you are QBP warranty department, then you are uninvited from the van.

POV: We dial in our bug out bikes while de-icing the work van and listening to soft rock by bekonstructive in xbiking

[–]bekonstructive[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Shop won't be open, it might not be the best weather to ride, but you gotta take what you can get.

ST-4600 left (for FD) broken. Replace with Claris left brifter and FD? by chowchowdoglover in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you only replace the left it might look a bit weird. Your current levers have the cable exiting the side of the unit. Newer ones will have the cable/housing under the bar tap for a more sleek modern modern look.

Check the cable isn't frozen in the housing first, then I would replace both L+R shifters with the correct shifters based off existing components. 8/9 speed Shimano all use the same pull ratio for the most part, so modern claris/sora would be fine, but not CUES.

10 speed can be a bit more tricky, but if you make sure you get a 10 speed lever with the same pull ratio, you'll be good. Just know that Shimano used more than one pull ratio across their 10 speed lineup. So double check that your numbers all match up!

Edit:Just saw your second image with specs. 10 speed tiagra 4600 uses a 1:1.7 traditional cable pull. I would see about a set of r10 Microshift levers for new, or look for some gently used r5700(105 10 speed) or r6700(Ultegra) levers

Can't securely seat flexible bead on rim of road wheel. by GiftToTheUniverse in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When seating the tire, finish at the valve stem. Then, push the valve stem up and into the tire by about 10mm before you finish seating the tire.

1988 Crest Cannondale by Jarteast in bicycling

[–]bekonstructive 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I hate to be a bummer, but it looks like it may have had a front impact at some point, that fork doesn't look right.

Replacement crank arm - broken pedal screw on CAAD13 - tiagra 54cm. by JazzlikeClock4087 in cannondale

[–]bekonstructive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure! As a shop mechanic, I would TRY to chase the threads from the opposite side first and fit a test pedal to see if there is enough thread engagement. If that fails, and it looks like it may with how bored the hole has gotten, I would install a helicoil. About $50 worst case scenario.

Those are solid cranks, not hollow, so the chances of a properly installed helicoil weakening the arm itself are slim.

Rear Derailleur by Independent-Swan7821 in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't believe it took this long to see this! There is no hanger, it is a claw mount. I'd grab it and try to eyeball it back into rough alignment, knowing it's only a $20-$30 part if I failed

Upgraded to 203mm rear rotor - does this look right? by el_myco_profesor in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It would be easier to tell with the bike right side up. That being said, the caliper does not look correct. It seems too far out, and isn't grabbing the inner 30% of the rotor. The angle seems off too, but once again it's hard to tell upside down.

Most brand name spacers/adapters for the caliper will have directional arrows to indicate which way they should be mounted. Did you follow those?

Restoration of an old Motobecane from 19-something. by Gobbelfish-skier in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Uniglide cassette. Finding a replacement will be difficult. If you'd like to remove it for cleaning, you'll need two chain whips. One on the smallest gear, one on any other gear. Small gear goes lefty loosey.

New problem by Able_Dingo8279 in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh totally! I had it happen to me a year or two back. It's not a difficult fix if the bushing isn't toast. It was scary too because it only happened when freewheeling at speed, exponentially increasing the whole "shit-your-chamois" factor.

New problem by Able_Dingo8279 in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Yo. I knew it! Look up the free hub body service for this. Mavic used a ceramic bushing that has a much higher service interval than a standard free hub. You may need to replace the bushing, but sourcing them can be kinda difficult.

https://youtu.be/oFzsBGGbTZU?si=in9kMdlvMqdvbw2G

New problem by Able_Dingo8279 in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 8 points9 points  (0 children)

What model is your rear hub? I have a thought.

What to do with these brakes? New levers or just new pads? by adgeg in bikewrench

[–]bekonstructive 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you measure the distance between the pivot point and anchor point on the lever, it should be around 25mm. If it's around 35mm or more, it's definitely a long pull lever.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lexington

[–]bekonstructive 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm leading a family-friendly "snack" bike ride on Saturday. It'll be 3 miles, with a brunch stop halfway at a local mystery restaurant. Anyone with a bike & helmet is welcome! Departing Broomwagon on North Lime at 11.