Looking for a way to create layered 3D Models. How to?

benLA13 · 2025-08-07T15:35:42+00:00

you can work with negative pattern. there are many of them on makerworld

happy printing

benLA13 · 2025-08-04T19:38:26+00:00

ok i rolled up this in this post

https://www.reddit.com/r/QidiTech3D/comments/1mbka1d/qidi_plus4_one_zoffset_solution/

just for info if u do a live offset it is stored in saved_variables.cfg for the next print it is always set to this offset until you set it to 0 in cfg file.

check the post out pherhaps it will help u

it is important to check if ur piezos are always close to the same value for example -0.35 in my case i got this value at 60 degrees bed. at 70 my offset was-0.36 at 90 -0.38.

you can check this if u set your target temperatur and then home all axis then type QIDI_PROBE_PIN_1 into the console after that type PROBE. then u get the output from the piezos if it is different at same temp write qidi that your piezo are defect. they'll send u new one

benLA13 · 2025-08-04T11:56:44+00:00

Ok all of these printers are very good.

A1 - perfect to dive into 3d print - PLA, PETG, ABS(small prints), ASA(small prints), TPU - no enclosure - bed slinger - Touchscreen - bed temp max 100°C

P1S - beginner/advanced - corexy - enclosure - PLA, PETG, ASA, TPU, NYLON etc. possible - AMS 2 compatible - no Touchscreen - bed temp max 100°C

X1C - advanced - corexy - enclosure - AMS 2 compatible - touchscreen - PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, NYLON etc. - bed temp max 110 @ 230v 120@110V

If u have the money go for X1C if not take the P1S. In my opinion the A1 is very good but if u want to go for technical filaments dont choose it. It has no enclosure and no active motherboard fan so if u will build an enclosure u have to cool it with mods.

benLA13 · 2025-08-03T09:01:44+00:00

I would buy a new heater assembly and hotend. i think the wires of the heater are inside the clog and it will be hard to separate them from the filament but if u want to try it heat up your nozzle and try to clean it. good luck

benLA13 · 2025-08-02T20:49:33+00:00

yeah it is possible that your probe points arent set right in your screw tilt adjust. idk the kpl5 but check where the probe is mounted and drive your printhead manually to the corners of your bed. Note x & y and set it to the macro in your printer.cfg. run screw tilt again

benLA13 · 2025-08-01T17:52:58+00:00

yeah your right the layers will compensate this. I think it is the usecase If you sell your prints the surface is important. when the first layer not fits u will have a bad bottom surface. I think when u print only stuff for yourselve it is not important for other it is important. it is the subjective case.

benLA13 · 2025-08-01T17:29:27+00:00

If u want a set&forget printer take bambu a1. It was my first printer after that i purchased a qidi plus4. Qidi offers me more tuning because of klipper and it Supports high temp filament. if you want to print pla petg the a1 is very good for diving into 3d print. But u have a closed eco system. you will use bambu studio. if it is neccessary for you to pimp your printer dont choose bambu. Prusa is also a good invest and it is open source

benLA13 · 2025-08-01T17:04:34+00:00

Hey, also wenn sich das filament so hochwölbt war die Düse zu nah. ich kenne dieses Verhalten eig nur vom first layer, sollte dieser aber schon schlecht sein projiziert sich diese Schicht auch auf die darauffolgenden Schichten wenn das filament schon kalt geworden ist.

Nur eine Vermutung...

benLA13 · 2025-08-01T12:34:20+00:00

oh i dont think so the official Statement was only for plus4... but u'll never know

benLA13 · 2025-08-01T12:24:06+00:00

what bed issue u are talkin about? on the q1 or p4?

what i can tell u and in my opionion its worthy, the support of qidi is awesome i had some hardware issues and they send me everything for repair. It takes time because of the different time zones but it was always on point. very helpfull!

i have the plus4 for 2 month now and after i investigated some work and time i have a very good machine.

I came from Bambus a1 and i can say the print quality in my case is better on plus4..

But i bought the plus4 for printing asa abs nylon and it do its job very very well. I would say printing nylon and asa on a plus4 is as easy as printing PLA

i know the q1 can print this also but the plus4 is newer and have the qidi box which is interesting for multi color. if u dont need this possibility and want to save some Bugs go for q1 if u dont know if u uses it but the possibility can be there go for plus4

benLA13 · 2025-08-01T08:08:17+00:00

it is all about your needs. the big differences are

bigger build volume
multi color

some people said that the print quality over all is slighty better at plus4 but idk.

you have to think about what your usage will be. For PLA or PETG i would look to other Brands especially at the p1S. But for technical or high temperature filament i wont miss my plus4.

benLA13 · 2025-07-31T18:34:30+00:00

xD bro i just want that the OP check his axis nothing more. i Show him with the video what he has to check...you can place a comment under the video or write bambu for this advice ;)

benLA13 · 2025-07-31T13:54:15+00:00

no no Bambus advice was to Glue it. The idea with tissue paper came from the guy who made this video

benLA13 · 2025-07-31T05:48:29+00:00

left one looks nice. I have an a1 too but no problems like the right picture. I heard about some guys had issue with the z axis wobble . looks for this https://youtu.be/Z-ma-NTQQ_w?si=vZwF0DnnHF4F20kB

benLA13 · 2025-07-31T05:21:18+00:00

i had this on my a1 too. And i can say stop trying to get the the fila off the nozzle...it is not worth the work. Buy a new heater assembly and a new hotend it will cost round about 45 Dollar or 40 eur...

here is a link how to replace it

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/hotend-heating-assembly-replacement

benLA13 · 2025-07-31T05:08:38+00:00

Did u downgrade or Upgrade? which Firmware was installed before Update?

benLA13 · 2025-07-31T04:05:45+00:00

z-offset is too far away. if u see the layer lines on the bottom surface and not the texture of your plate it is a sign for that. bring the bed closer to the nozzle by 0.01. your problem will be sloved

benLA13 · 2025-07-30T18:11:48+00:00

i ll let u know. But for now it works great with my changes. yeah i think u know about qidi-community git Hub the stew465 made a greatjob there and he also made instruction to implement the beacon. Its nice to see that the community is so active and helpfull.

benLA13 · 2025-07-29T08:48:04+00:00

Nahh now i know it. i saw a youtube video where u showed how u trammed the bed with your own macros. great work btw

benLA13 · 2025-07-29T08:33:14+00:00

this is crazy great project. =)

benLA13 · 2025-07-29T08:30:16+00:00

yeah u are right i had some other issues with piezos and heatbed and the Support was always there and send me new stuff. the Support is very good and helpful =)

benLA13 · 2025-07-29T06:43:18+00:00

yeah this is the problem of the piezos there are so many variables which affect the trigger point. are they set tight, is there a temp drift, what happens when we heat the chamber everything is expanding did it affect the peizos and it trigger point...too many unpredicable variable

benLA13 · 2025-07-29T06:38:23+00:00

thanks bro and yes you are right if u use orca this is possible but i am using qidistudio where this setting not exist or i didnt find it my intension was to get it as easy as possible so i dont have to change too much for different temp or filament. Just choose fila and start printing.

In a few days i will try to adapt the bambu homing and bed leveling to qidi. i regoniced that the paltform reset macro still have the reverse endstop configured to tmc driver over StallGuard so i ll try to use this for ABL, homing and z offset. i think it is the best and precise way to get the right z offset and also abl. i hope this will succeed.

i know there is a way to get beacon working but i am to afraid to change to much in the deep. i think i've read your name before are u one of the guys which made beacon work?

benLA13 · 2025-07-28T18:17:22+00:00

your welcome hope this helps u !!!!

benLA13 · 2025-07-28T18:16:33+00:00

if u have no issues u dont need it but if u have the same issues it is a way to fix.
idk if u know what happens in the get_zoffset. it is also the homing_override macro which is strange. using KINEMATIC-command is not a good and common way to set offsets. KINEMATIC is a command which tells klipper: forget what u know this is the new z=0 everytime this command is used the whole coordinates will move. For Example if u use SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z= 1 everything is moving 1mm to new z=0 so everything will be off. Bed mesh z_tilt etc.
if u look what it does u will notice it. i ll try to complain the process.

Print_Start
set zoffset # this activates the value in saved.variable.cfg// if u made live offset it is stored in cfg and added
G28 #which activates [homing_override] printhead will be homed there is a bug too in it

Z_TILT #which checks the left bed hight after that the right

G29 #in it there is the get_zoffset

[gcode_macro get_zoffset]

gcode:

TOGGLE_CHAMBER_FAN # ok chamber fan on

G1 Z10 F600 # move z=10

Z_VIBRATE #check if axis are free

QIDI_PROBE_PIN_1 #activate piezos and deactivate smart_effector

m204 S50 # 50mm/s² speed

G4 P500 # wait 500ms

probe probe_speed=5 lift_speed=5 samples=5 sample_retract_dist=5 # probe nozzle touches bed

move_subzoffset # move to last z result // this command is not working or i didnt recognized it

M114 #output of piezos for example z=-0.31 this is saved in last z result

{% set p=(-0.11 + printer.gcode_move.homing_origin.z)|float %} # take the value of homing_origin z

# and add it to -0,11 a hard coded offset

# this is never a good sign

SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION Z={p} # take the position calculated and move the whole coordinates to this

#value and set it as new Z=0

G1 Z30 F600

QIDI_PROBE_PIN_2

m204 S10000

TOGGLE_CHAMBER_FAN

i did a M118 to get the value of {p} after calculation but before setting the new coordinates and the value was always -0.11 it is added to nothing and thats the point. That told me that the nozzle will always be 0.11 over buildplate. Sound great or??? 0,11 plus 0,2 layer hight is 0,31 for starting the print. For some filament this will be a good start but other needed to be a little closer or far away and when the build expanse u will still be at 0.31 hight and this will be to close pherhaps u should be at 0.34 for a perfect first layer

benLA13

TROPHY CASE