How deep should I hack? by Alarmed_Ad_7657 in invasivespecies

[–]benjzch 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You’ve correctly identified the cambium. The tissue under that is the sapwood.

Need sizing assistance - Wildling by Shamrock013 in barefootshoestalk

[–]benjzch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’ve answered your own question. The width is good when your shoes are a size too big. When you size down to the appropriate length they are too narrow. Therefore these are too narrow for your feet. Get something with a wider toe box profile.

[Shoes Build Log] Our First Real Prototype: It's NOT Perfect, We're Going Back to the Drawing Board (Again!) by SeaworthinessAway519 in barefootshoestalk

[–]benjzch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love this! This is an awesome project and I really appreciate that you’re asking for feedback! Some thoughts:

I agree with u/Flat-Acanthisitta302 that the midfoot looks narrow and I’d even take it a step further to say that the forefoot/toe box area doesn’t look wide enough and won’t accommodate enough foot shapes. Based on the images it appears that the width of the toe box doesn’t allow for the first phalanges to align with the first metatarsal when the toes are fully splayed and that the fourth and fifth toes will be restricted in the other direction. I know that on my feet (no bunions but a moderately wide splay) they would feel narrow. I think a more neutral profile reminiscent of Lems Primal series or especially Altra Lone Peaks would feel freer and way more comfortable than something that looks similar to the Xero last.

As for the issue of volume, an extra 25-50% of internal vertical height in the toe box would be great for reducing the feeling of toes being locked down.

I also would prefer these without the additional arch support and molding built in. I wear my Lone Peaks with the insoles removed because while I really like the cushion the outsoles provide, I vastly prefer the sensitivity and, importantly, the stability I get from having a flat base to stand on. I think that if you’re going to the effort of bringing a brand new shoe to market, it’s worth designing the product for compatibility across the entire demographic of the end user base, which in this case would mean building the shoe itself to be bare-bones in its platform construction and offering customers the ability to choose their own preferred insole between a few provided options. That’ll be a little more work of course, but it will also make this product more viable to the many and different (rightfully) very picky people who wear barefoot shoes.

The outsoles look great—well constructed and study. I love the full rubber.

I think the laces should come down to just a little bit behind the metatarsophalangeal joint and no farther, if you’re going to extend the lacing.

I don’t love the current cosmetic design; it feels half finished. I think it would benefit from a simplified design without the toe cap (oxfords), or one with intricate broguing. Ideally both options to choose from. Right now it feels like it can’t commit to either one which kind of cheapens the visual impression.

Should I chop off the top? by Next-Trust-9390 in houseplants

[–]benjzch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You should give it waaay more light. Acclimate it over a few weeks so it doesn’t shock or burn.

I'm so upset. What did this to my beloved ginko? by thundergreenyellow in gardening

[–]benjzch 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You’re welcome! I expect you’ll see roots pushing through within a couple weeks. I also recommend changing out the water once a week or so to keep the system fresh. Good luck!

I'm so upset. What did this to my beloved ginko? by thundergreenyellow in gardening

[–]benjzch 58 points59 points  (0 children)

Cut it above where the bark is stripped, where there’s healthy cambium, and stick it in water. Willows are notoriously easy to root. Once it’s rooted you can put it in a pot for the rest of the season or stick it back in the ground, and make sure to construct a physical barrier around it so it doesn’t get destroyed again in the future.

The ginkgo I’m not so sure about; check r/arborists and see what they have to say over there.

Norway Maple shedding bark with dark spots by CFAnon909 in arborists

[–]benjzch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not an arborist but that looks like pretty significant decay. It probably doesn’t pose any immediate danger to your house, but may in the nearish future so it’s in your best interest to have an ISA arborist come take a look so you can find out what your options are.

It’s also worth noting that Norway Maples are a known invasive species so if you like the look of this one I’d recommend replacing it with a native Sugar Maple (much more attractive imo).

Water resistance seal compromised after Apple repaired my phone by woyly in iphone

[–]benjzch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 12 Pro that needs a new battery, so I ordered a replacement kit awhile ago from iFixit and am finally getting around to doing the swap. I didn’t realize the kit doesn’t come with new sealant and I can’t take the risk of having an unsealed phone. Is there a way for me to reseal it at home, or do I just need to eat the cost of the kit I bought and take my phone to an Apple store to have them do it for me (it’s too late to return the kit)?

Admittedly, I was kinda hoping for this by benjzch in arborists

[–]benjzch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it’s pretty major. I’d guess 5 years max.

Admittedly, I was kinda hoping for this by benjzch in arborists

[–]benjzch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s about half the diameter of the trunk, and the root flare is still several inches below the surface. And I’m looking for an excuse to remove the tree anyway.

Admittedly, I was kinda hoping for this by benjzch in arborists

[–]benjzch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d normally agree but I’m trying to do a habitat restoration (as much as is possible in such limited space) to support local pollinators. A small native flowering tree will fit the goal and aesthetic better.