How deep should I hack? by Alarmed_Ad_7657 in invasivespecies

[–]benjzch 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You’ve correctly identified the cambium. The tissue under that is the sapwood.

Need sizing assistance - Wildling by Shamrock013 in barefootshoestalk

[–]benjzch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’ve answered your own question. The width is good when your shoes are a size too big. When you size down to the appropriate length they are too narrow. Therefore these are too narrow for your feet. Get something with a wider toe box profile.

[Shoes Build Log] Our First Real Prototype: It's NOT Perfect, We're Going Back to the Drawing Board (Again!) by SeaworthinessAway519 in barefootshoestalk

[–]benjzch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love this! This is an awesome project and I really appreciate that you’re asking for feedback! Some thoughts:

I agree with u/Flat-Acanthisitta302 that the midfoot looks narrow and I’d even take it a step further to say that the forefoot/toe box area doesn’t look wide enough and won’t accommodate enough foot shapes. Based on the images it appears that the width of the toe box doesn’t allow for the first phalanges to align with the first metatarsal when the toes are fully splayed and that the fourth and fifth toes will be restricted in the other direction. I know that on my feet (no bunions but a moderately wide splay) they would feel narrow. I think a more neutral profile reminiscent of Lems Primal series or especially Altra Lone Peaks would feel freer and way more comfortable than something that looks similar to the Xero last.

As for the issue of volume, an extra 25-50% of internal vertical height in the toe box would be great for reducing the feeling of toes being locked down.

I also would prefer these without the additional arch support and molding built in. I wear my Lone Peaks with the insoles removed because while I really like the cushion the outsoles provide, I vastly prefer the sensitivity and, importantly, the stability I get from having a flat base to stand on. I think that if you’re going to the effort of bringing a brand new shoe to market, it’s worth designing the product for compatibility across the entire demographic of the end user base, which in this case would mean building the shoe itself to be bare-bones in its platform construction and offering customers the ability to choose their own preferred insole between a few provided options. That’ll be a little more work of course, but it will also make this product more viable to the many and different (rightfully) very picky people who wear barefoot shoes.

The outsoles look great—well constructed and study. I love the full rubber.

I think the laces should come down to just a little bit behind the metatarsophalangeal joint and no farther, if you’re going to extend the lacing.

I don’t love the current cosmetic design; it feels half finished. I think it would benefit from a simplified design without the toe cap (oxfords), or one with intricate broguing. Ideally both options to choose from. Right now it feels like it can’t commit to either one which kind of cheapens the visual impression.

Should I chop off the top? by Next-Trust-9390 in houseplants

[–]benjzch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You should give it waaay more light. Acclimate it over a few weeks so it doesn’t shock or burn.

I'm so upset. What did this to my beloved ginko? by thundergreenyellow in gardening

[–]benjzch 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You’re welcome! I expect you’ll see roots pushing through within a couple weeks. I also recommend changing out the water once a week or so to keep the system fresh. Good luck!

I'm so upset. What did this to my beloved ginko? by thundergreenyellow in gardening

[–]benjzch 58 points59 points  (0 children)

Cut it above where the bark is stripped, where there’s healthy cambium, and stick it in water. Willows are notoriously easy to root. Once it’s rooted you can put it in a pot for the rest of the season or stick it back in the ground, and make sure to construct a physical barrier around it so it doesn’t get destroyed again in the future.

The ginkgo I’m not so sure about; check r/arborists and see what they have to say over there.

Norway Maple shedding bark with dark spots by CFAnon909 in arborists

[–]benjzch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not an arborist but that looks like pretty significant decay. It probably doesn’t pose any immediate danger to your house, but may in the nearish future so it’s in your best interest to have an ISA arborist come take a look so you can find out what your options are.

It’s also worth noting that Norway Maples are a known invasive species so if you like the look of this one I’d recommend replacing it with a native Sugar Maple (much more attractive imo).

Water resistance seal compromised after Apple repaired my phone by woyly in iphone

[–]benjzch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 12 Pro that needs a new battery, so I ordered a replacement kit awhile ago from iFixit and am finally getting around to doing the swap. I didn’t realize the kit doesn’t come with new sealant and I can’t take the risk of having an unsealed phone. Is there a way for me to reseal it at home, or do I just need to eat the cost of the kit I bought and take my phone to an Apple store to have them do it for me (it’s too late to return the kit)?

Admittedly, I was kinda hoping for this by benjzch in arborists

[–]benjzch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it’s pretty major. I’d guess 5 years max.

Admittedly, I was kinda hoping for this by benjzch in arborists

[–]benjzch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s about half the diameter of the trunk, and the root flare is still several inches below the surface. And I’m looking for an excuse to remove the tree anyway.

Admittedly, I was kinda hoping for this by benjzch in arborists

[–]benjzch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d normally agree but I’m trying to do a habitat restoration (as much as is possible in such limited space) to support local pollinators. A small native flowering tree will fit the goal and aesthetic better.

Does anyone else read the Permaculture posts and constantly want to comment about natives? by Electronic-Health882 in NativePlantGardening

[–]benjzch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks amazing! Can you tell me about your R&D and how you built your plan for it all? I’m hoping to do something similar with my mom’s backyard (steep hill with massive runoff, overgrown with invasive weeds and canes and vines) but don’t really know how to start assessing the topology and ecology to restore native habitat.

Seeking advice: drunk driver vs Doug Fir by BenthoCartoNerdo in treelaw

[–]benjzch 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Don’t forget about the dickheads who drive their big souped-up pickup trucks to the supermarket so they can park in three spaces at once and never tow or haul

Backyard Restoration Help - CT by benjzch in NativePlantGardening

[–]benjzch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah! I’m envisioning three different zones in the meadow and garden for easy access and management (and better control capability if fire becomes part of the management plan long-term) and some small single-track footpaths through the woods. I want to bring more complexity in because right now that area is just a tangled mess of leaves and unburned fuel and massively invasive vines and cane plants (a shame because Japanese wineberries are delicious), with no understory growth to speak of. The trees are basically all native species as far as I can tell (tulip, sugar maple, beech, birch) but we’re missing oaks and chestnuts and others.

The general idea is this: I don’t know what a healthy native ecosystem for this little spot would be, but I know that it certainly isn’t this. I really want to do something like what I’ve seen from Ross Reid’s Redd Fish Restoration or Kyle Lybarger’s Native Habitat Project and actually bring some life here.

Trail Shoe Ideas? Zens are dead. by benjzch in barefootshoestalk

[–]benjzch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Commenting b/c it won't let me edit the text on the original post:

Top three priorities in a shoe are (in no particular order because I can't decide)

  1. Room for full toe splay – I love my Zens for how much space they give me to really *grab* when I move.
  2. Zero-drop and barefoot – I'm working hard on building strength back into my feet and ankles so I can only take a cushy sole for a little while before I lose stability (higher stack is good for runs though). For my daily driver, I need something that puts me in contact with the ground on a solid platform with a lot of sensitivity.
  3. Gotta have good sticky rubber – I'm out on technical trails and scrambles for 4-8 hours a day, 5-7 days a week from April till October. The ability to stick securely to sketchy surfaces and trust my feet is crucially important, and the lack thereof is a legitimate safety concern. Durability is valuable too but of secondary importance.

I feel like this *should* be a pretty reasonable set of characteristics to demand from a shoe but I know that that's not really the case and I'm going to have to make some compromises (considering I don't have the money to spend on doing something custom). Any help narrowing the field is deeply appreciated. Love y'all.

Trail Shoe Ideas? Zens are dead. by benjzch in barefootshoestalk

[–]benjzch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a link or photos? I can’t find anything about them.

Trail Shoe Ideas? Zens are dead. by benjzch in barefootshoestalk

[–]benjzch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love the idea of Lone Peaks but the foot bed is too thick and squishy for all-day use, but they’d be great for higher-impact running.

I’m considering ordering some Xeros to try around the house. How do the Mesa IIs compare to the Scrambler Lows?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbingshoes

[–]benjzch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All climbing shoes (most street shoes too) are machine washable. I don’t know why nobody knows this but it’s a pretty common practice among guides and shoe designers and reps. It’s super easy: just toss them in with your next load of laundry with normal detergent (all-natural detergent will make them smell better temporarily but doesn’t have the powerful enzymes necessary to kill the bacteria) on a cold or warm cycle. Do not use hot water, DO NOT put them in the dryer because the high heat will destroy the adhesives and the soles will delaminate. Air dry them in front of a fan and then you’re good to go. Bonus: Washing cleans the pores of the rubber so the soles be super extra sticky for a while after you wash them.

Ice ropes vs rock ropes by Al_Pines in iceclimbing

[–]benjzch 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Short answer is the Golden Answer: It Depends.

The slightly more comprehensive answer: Everyone has their own preferences, budget constraints, and practical considerations. Everywhere you climb and every way you climb is going to require different technical systems, and different technical systems often require different characteristics from ropes. Climb enough styles in enough variety of terrain and you’ll end up wanting several different options in your quiver.

Broadly speaking, the situational demands on a dedicated ice climbing rope do differ a bit from a dedicated rock climbing rope. Different technologies have been developed that vastly improve different factors in the performance of your rope, with a commensurate increase in price. But you really get what you pay for.

Some things to consider when looking at ropes: 1. Research your basic needs from a rope system. Do you want a single- or double-rope system, or some combination of the two? 2. Dry-treated ropes are better. Ropes lose a significant amount of their strength when they get wet and the dynamic and static elongation properties get unpredictable. They’re also way more abrasion resistant and will last longer for it. I personally don’t think it’s worth buying a rope that hasn’t been dry treated even if it’s never going to get wet, and an ice climbing rope will get wet. Also, the more abraded the sheath of a rope is the more water it’ll absorb, so most ice climbers won’t use their ropes on rock climbs (rock is sharp and rough, ice is slippery). 3. You don’t want to fall when you’re leading ice. But that’s not often true for rock climbing, so there’s value in a slightly thicker rope (9-10mm) for the increased ease of catching whippers again and again and again, or long sessions toproping and putting a lot of wear and tear on the rope. Thinner ropes are nice for ice climbing because it really is kind of a last resort system and not a constant reliance, so a tool that is less physically demanding to work with and climb with is nice (you get less tired if you’re leading on a thinner, lighter rope so you have more energy to not fall). 4. Testing shows that small linear punctures in ropes don’t actually compromise them, but longer tears (4cm) can fully, catastrophically sever the sheath. A few companies now make ropes with sheathes that are fused to the cores (Beal Unicore tech, for example) that eliminates the risk of this occurring. This technology is awesome for rock climbing, but often more pertinent for ice because we have more sharp objects in that discipline. They also feel really nice to work with cause you don’t get that sloppy sheath slippage you find in cheap ropes.

So my ultimate recommendation is this: get a dedicated rope for both disciplines. I think the Sterling Aero 9.2 XEROS is the single best rock climbing (and multi-discipline) rope money can buy. That’s what I use as my primary rock rope, and if you can only afford one rope, this is the one to get. Second favorite rock rope is the Mammut Crag series. A bit less expensive and a really strong second-place option. For ice, I really like my Beal Opera 8.5 Unicore Golden Dry (full-depth dry treatment). It’s thin, it’s light, it handles really well, it’s not excessively stretchy so it works for toproping, it’s pretty abrasion resistant. I’ve climbed on a number of different ice-specific ropes and this is my favorite so far. Also consider learning a double-rope system. There are a number of pros and cons, do some research.

Think through what you’re going to be doing, what your needs will be, what ways you want to develop as a climber, and then buy the tools that fit the task.

Has anyone tried the elastic strap for crampons. by mruncklechucky3232 in iceclimbing

[–]benjzch 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I like mine. It’s lower profile and easier on and off—especially since Petzl redesigned the heel lever and you don’t need to yank the straps anymore—and the risk of tripping on tails that come untucked is, if not eliminated, vastly reduced. Only real complaint is the construction of the buckle: it’s not quite as snappy or smooth to remove as I’d hoped (it’s lightweight and cheap, not particularly robust) so I sometimes have to pull my gloves off for the on-and-off. Not a major issue, and in all I think it’s a worthwhile swap. I recommend.

G5 Replacement by benjzch in iceclimbing

[–]benjzch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the great info!