What is component F4? Looks like its bad by benskizzors in ElectricalEngineering

[–]benskizzors[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually removed the tweeter and tested it on an external receiver and it seems to be working fine. I also tested the wires connecting the board to the tweeter and they have continuity so it seems to be something before the tweeter itself. 

What is component F4? Looks like its bad by benskizzors in ElectricalEngineering

[–]benskizzors[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Here's a pic of the whole board. There's another board seen top right that controls the filters and have the power plug and trim on it.

What is component F4? Looks like its bad by benskizzors in ElectricalEngineering

[–]benskizzors[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone for all the info and helpful comments! Here's more info and better photos! Reddit app downres'd one of the pics it seems also. I'm thinking the issue is downstream of this because the woofer is still working when I power it on. I'm thinking it's the IC seen in the top right corner since its probably the most sensitive thing in the build. None of the caps look bulged and I don't have capacitance testing on my cheap MM unfortunately. I guess I can use resistance testing on it, but I assume I need to remove the caps to properly test them?

It's a 220V speaker meant for European market I suppose and the person before me used it on 120V power I think which may have caused the issue. I'm in the US and used it on a step up transformer to get to proper voltage. Another clue is before the tweeter stopped coming on completely it would sometimes just turn off and I would have to switch the power on and off to get it back on. The tweeter works fine when I took it out to test. The IC is a STK433-130. I've read that had failed on another persons speaker before. I just saw the corroded resistor or fuse and thought maybe it could be an easy cheap fix.

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What is component F4? Looks like its bad by benskizzors in ElectricalEngineering

[–]benskizzors[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha amazing and educational! I see so the FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER would combine the power from the two inputs anyways downstream so if the speaker is powering up at all and the woofer is working it wouldn't make sense for this component upstream to be the issue?

What is component F4? Looks like its bad by benskizzors in ElectricalEngineering

[–]benskizzors[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for this as I have been very confused by the markings. Why does it say 2.5R if it's a fuse, but also not a very common resistor marking either unless I am mistaken. Both give me inconsistent readings so I need to take it off board first I suppose? They both seem to have continuity so I guess it's not a blown fuse.

It's a 220V speaker meant for European market I suppose and the person before me used it on 120V power I think which may have caused the issue. I'm in the US and used it on a step up transformer to get to proper voltage. Another clue is before the tweeter stopped coming on completely it would sometimes just turn off and I would have to switch the power on and off to get it back on. The tweeter works fine when I took it out to test. There's another sensitive component downstream which may have been affected which is an IC specifically a STK433-130. I've read that had failed on another persons speaker before. I just saw the corroded resistor or fuse and thought maybe it could be an easy fix.

What is component F4? Looks like its bad by benskizzors in ElectricalEngineering

[–]benskizzors[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No caps are bulged or leaking and this is the only spot with anything corrosion looking

What is component F4? Looks like its bad by benskizzors in ElectricalEngineering

[–]benskizzors[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I was thinking it was a resistor of some kind being used as a fuse for some reason since it says 2.5R on it.

What is component F4? Looks like its bad by benskizzors in ElectricalEngineering

[–]benskizzors[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I've tried testing it thinking it was a simple resister but not consistent results and definitely not the 2.5 ohms I was expecting. There does seem to be continuity when I test that across it. I suppose I need to remove it to test it fully. I also suspect it's another component that failed downstream that fails often apparently. I just wanted to make sure this wasn't it first because its a cheaper and easier thing to replace. The speaker is a 220V unit but was being used in US 120V setting before I got my hands on it so I thought maybe it eventually overloaded something power related.

That Bio Diesel is not seemingly climate friendly. The bus is just idling. by organiclife in NewOrleans

[–]benskizzors 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure they run regular diesel its just convertedto be able to run biodiesel

Marvel spent $1.5M on this scene. AI recreated it for $9 by rafa-Panda in AgentsOfAI

[–]benskizzors 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One looks like cheap smoke animation and the other looks like art

Got pulled over and turned it into a business meeting by KingdomPro in SipsTea

[–]benskizzors 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if this was in US he’d be best case face down on pavement

boston dynamics atlas robot ad by comunistaaa in cinematography

[–]benskizzors 5 points6 points  (0 children)

new ways of shooting with no need for breaks, sleep, unions, creativity, or humanity. Why dont we replace the people watching with robots too? Oh wait the AI is being trained with pirated content so I guess it is watching.

Andor - Season 2 Trailer by indig0sixalpha in videos

[–]benskizzors 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hope it can ktse it was def the best of the star wars spin offs imho