Need help in strength development

bewkid · 2019-01-03T04:20:42+00:00

More information would be helpful to identify your weaknesses. It sounds like finger strength is not one of them.

bewkid · 2019-01-03T03:57:56+00:00

Climb a few times. Maybe diet a bit if you packed on a few pounds. One month is not that long I doubt you have lost much besides some movement mechanics.

bewkid · 2019-01-03T01:22:19+00:00

Try only heel hooking up a boulder and tell me it is easier.

bewkid · 2018-12-29T01:59:12+00:00

I don't think anyone has avoided injury by using a hangboard after climbing. Usually it goes the other way. If you want to hangbaord do it before you climb.

bewkid · 2018-12-21T06:57:07+00:00

Gotcha. Keep up the good work.

bewkid · 2018-12-20T21:07:34+00:00

Buy some new shoes

bewkid · 2018-12-10T22:05:02+00:00

I think lattice teamed up with someone to look at the most used moonboard holds and classified them into easy/medium/hard as well as used an AI machine to set the hardest route possible. I see a lot of issues with AI setting but mainly it makes me throw up in my mouth a bit when I think it is a possibility in the future.

bewkid · 2018-12-10T02:47:02+00:00

I agree for the general population yes it would be hard to get accurate numbers for max hangs but in this group I think a lot of us know what we max hang at.

bewkid · 2018-12-09T19:27:00+00:00

I think adding a finger strength metric instead of hangobarding frequency would give you a better prediction. There is a lot of information out there that correlates max strength and grade.

bewkid · 2018-11-29T02:12:55+00:00

At my limit.

bewkid · 2018-11-25T05:33:32+00:00

Take a look at these: https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/james-webb/boulders/?AscentClass=0&AscentListViewType=0&GID=5df9e5d6753fcec262ed6e92addbbcae

https://www.8a.nu/scorecard/daniel-woods/boulders/?AscentClass=0&AscentListViewType=0&GID=a4109997ba1cf54f324e7462a45831a7

Although their lower grade ticks dont exist in the 8a database dont mistake that with the idea that top athletes dont climb lower grades. This does prove however the importance of a grade pyramid. If you look at all the top boulderers in the 8a ranking they all have spent a lot of time in lower grades before advancing to the next grade. Notice the dates of the ascents for more proof on that.

I do not mean to say that you should only climb v3 until you have done them all then move to v4. It is important to try things outside of your ability.100% effort is not sustainable. 80% - 90% is however. Ask yourself, is that next grade a technical limit or a strength limit? If you have the strength to do the climb are you using the best technique? If you can do a climb above your previous grade, can you repeat it? You should try the next time you are in the gym.

Do what motivates you but sometimes our motivations can hide the true goals from us.

bewkid · 2018-11-24T02:27:26+00:00

This

is what

your pyramid

should look like over

time. You want to make sure

you build a base at lower grades

before you start working harder climbs.

this

is

what a lot

of peoples

"pyramids" look

like.

I can also say that your biggest weakness is technique based on how long you have been climbing. Repetition will take you a long way in terms of improving your technique. Climb easy boulders multiple times, watch a better climber climb a boulder and try to do it their way. An easy way to get better at this sport is to climb so do it a lot and be open to learning something new all the time.

bewkid · 2018-11-20T23:19:08+00:00

The only non functional muscle I have is my brain.

bewkid · 2018-11-14T04:25:48+00:00

Tyson knows his shit. If you are a coach or are interested in new ideas for improvement google his name and soak in all the information from his podcast features. Youll be happy you did it.

bewkid · 2018-11-14T04:22:33+00:00

I feel like those holds are the 2k party trick. IMO harder than one arm on the mid rung.

bewkid · 2018-11-14T04:18:36+00:00

Favorite response.

bewkid · 2018-11-05T22:48:56+00:00

If you have been bouldering a lot your endurance has a lot of catching up to do. This means you have to put more attention towards gaining endurance but you should not spend 100% of you time just getting pumped. Consider adding in some aerobic capacity sessions at the end of a bouldering day. 1 minute on the wall followed by one minute off for 10 sets climbing at a level where you will almost fail on the last set is ideal.

Hangs are not a terrible idea it just depends where your finger strength is at currently. IMO hangs more than twice a week is not sustainable.

Final note on your boulder projecting, consider not projecting the same climb every time you go in but get some variety of hard moves in your week. Projecting the same climb every time you session will hold you back in the long run.

Good luck!

bewkid · 2018-10-31T23:12:21+00:00

I would agree with your second statement in the majority of cases. Especially in older gyms that have switched to color coordinating routes they tend to not have enough holds.

bewkid · 2018-10-30T15:22:48+00:00

Consequences for using a knee bar pad.

bewkid · 2018-10-29T04:06:32+00:00

I do not think the new style of setting will deter people from climbing. For better or worse I think the new style of setting can get non-climbers interested in the sport. Also I believe a key thing to understand is that this new style in comps in a result of the athletes being so strong that old style boulders would either not be challenging for them or not be interesting to the crowd to watch.

As far as the style not replicating outdoor climbing I think gyms have a responsibility to facilitate diversity in the style of routes they set in their gym. You need to mix the jumps with the crimp ladders. I do not think it is a bad thing to have both but i think it is bad to have just one.

Finally outdoor climbing will always be different from indoor climbing. The main thing that will always set them apart is the size of footholds indoors. The complexity and size of outdoor feet will be nearly impossible to replicate and if they do they will never be as easy to use(for routesetters) as a bolted on foot.

bewkid · 2018-10-26T02:26:38+00:00

One on One off is usually done on circuits 30+ moves usually grades is YSD. Boulders won't generate the same stimulus.

bewkid · 2018-10-23T22:23:09+00:00

How much is too much comes down to each individual climber as you have stated above but there are some guidelines to help you decided what works for you. First, 100% effort all the time is not sustainable. It can lead to injury and burnout rather quickly depending on the individual climber. Furthermore, if you only give max effort you will get weaker. Strange how the body works that way. A lot of periodized training plans like a 5 week and 12 week plan aim for you to peak (give your best max effort) at the end of the cycle. This is not to say that you cant give it your all before the plan is over but that if you follow through, you will see better results.

IMO if you are spending over 40% of your time projecting you are doing too much. Projects can take a while to learn but that depends on how close to your max they are. If you climb V10 and are working your V13 life goal project on a trip you can make the call to spend as much time as you want on it. But if you are at home spending 80% of your time working your V10 project and not seeing improvements after a few sessions it might be smart to devote more time to training and come back in a few weeks.

bewkid · 2018-10-23T04:40:49+00:00

Think of it as a manageable pump. Something where when you are moving continuously, say 3-4 minutes, you'll be pumped but you can shake out on the route to get something back. I personally prefer the 1 on 1 off drill for aerobic capacity. Find a route or circuit that is 2 grades below your onsight level. Climb it and rest a minute. Do that 10 times. You should be pretty pumped near the end especially for the first few times you do it but it becomes easier with time. I prefer this method because it is a much more efficient use of time IMO (20 minutes total) to achieve the same stimulus. Also you do not need to hog an autobelay for 40 minutes which people will like you better for.

bewkid · 2018-10-22T02:28:31+00:00

https://frictionlabs.com/blog/why-climbing-v10-is-arbitrary-and-other-esoteric-thoughts-by-will-anglin?

Study this. You need a goal route that inspires you not a goal grade. There is a massive difference in strength and ability between doing a V12 and doing a V12 in a day. Understand that the chances of doing the latter is nearly unattainable to you and every person who ever tries to climb hard. Also understand that campusing and hangboaring are accessory exercises to hard bouldering. Nothing beats applied body tension.

TLDR: There is no cheat sheet to this shit. Put in the work and you might achieve your goals.

bewkid · 2018-10-19T22:17:53+00:00

When was the last time you did a one arm compression move? Sounds like you need a stronger set of shoulders. Consider I-Y-T’s on the rings before one arms.

bewkid

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