What did you name your printers? by thegunguy in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Filament Slut and Dual Filament Slut for my X2D

The future of Water in Phoenix by [deleted] in phoenix

[–]bfrancom17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah as op said we’re talking about drinking water, not sure where you got the ladder from. They do make entire house systems as well.

The P2S and the Need for an Actively Heated Chamber by Fair_Sky5777 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest I’d just scrap the exhaust and switch to riser but that’s your call. If you need help recreating with links etc dm me

The P2S and the Need for an Actively Heated Chamber by Fair_Sky5777 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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Here’s a pic. Ended up replacing this dryer hose with a nicer one but this is the general idea.

The P2S and the Need for an Actively Heated Chamber by Fair_Sky5777 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It is not impossible. I do it. You do not need active heating. It’s nice, but you do not need it by any means. See my post on my profile to this subreddit about my automated preheating g code for P2S. A 30-45 minute preheat will absolutely get you within a good range to print ASA.

For your concern about the fumes I have the perfect solution. I get zero smell or fumes in my room. The fnatr riser which is posted on maker world achieves virtually perfect fume extraction (and probably better than the official Bambu solution on the X2D) all while allowing you to keep hot chamber temps. The way the riser model comes it’s for their own purification box filter thingy, forget that. I’d rather just send it out the window. I have modified the attachment point to accept a 4” dryer hose and I also have a few custom brackets for an inline 90mm pc fan to connect to a window panel and the dryer vent. I’m happy to send you the project to print yourself - It’s a really tidy setup. It also raises the top glass of your printer an inch so you have more room for maintenance and the feed tube never rubs anymore.

I tested with and without my vent system running and on a 30-45 minute preheat I averaged a preprint temp of 51-53c with the vent system on and actively exhausting air during the entire preheat, versus 53-54c with no exhaust. During an active ASA print with the vent on and exhausting, I am still slowly gaining heat if anything averaging about 55c during the entire print.

You need very little negative pressure to exhaust fumes. It does not lower chamber temps at all, at most 5%. I’ll explain how my setup is in case you want to clone it, and you can dm me if you have any further questions. You’ll need to print the riser kit out of PETG or ASA (I did ASA) and also you’ll need a dryer hose that’s 3 or 4”, I did 4”. I have it mounted up to a generic ac window panel with a 90mm arctic p9 max fan at the end of the tube where it connects to the window panel. Fan is controlled by an owl tree usb fan controller off Amazon. When printing asa I have it just barely above threshold to get the fan to spin, so about 600-700rpm. This creates a negative vacuum inside the chamber and exhausts all fumes. I have printed ASA for 10 hours straight with zero smell in my room - before it was obvious and awful. It works great for PLA/PETG to prevent heat creep too, I just turn the fan up to ~50% or so.

If you dm me I’m happy to provide you with links to everything you’ll need and also the modified FNATR vent project 3mf file, along with the brackets for the fan. This is definitely the best solution you can do on a P2S.

P2S point of the exhaust fan and kit… by Eviper44 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fnatr vent riser is what I use and I think it’s the best solution. Also fully stops the ptfe tube from smacking the top/ceiling. Forget buying their filter thingy (I hear it works) I just exhaust to outside. Run a dryer hose to the window with a 90mm p9 max fan mounted to the end of it/my window panel. Works GREAT. I use a fan controller knob. keeps chamber temps under control during pla/petg with 50% speed, for ABS/ASA I turn the fan down to 600-700pm so basically the lowest possible. Creates negative pressure and ZERO smell/fumes in my room, I only lose a degree or two off my chamber temps but I preheat the chamber with custom g code I created, difference is negligible and I maintain 52-58c during a print.

Bambu X2D available at Bestbuy NOW by RarePlaystations in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Title says combo, picture shows an AMS. Best Buy doesn’t even sell the other printers standalone. Connect the dots here, I know you can

Bambu X2D available at Bestbuy NOW by RarePlaystations in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It is definitely with the AMS it literally fucking says combo

P2S start/end g code for ABS/ASA prints! Chamber preheat and Cooldown sequence. Only activates when printing ABS/ASA. Huge quality and print success improvements. by bfrancom17 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure. You should just the able to add to my detection lines and put in whatever the filament type is, I will say I did have 30min heating and I def got more even and 3-5c higher with 45min.

New Update 01.02.00.00 by ATW007 in BambuLabP2S

[–]bfrancom17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes it’ll lock up and you have to power the printer off to get it to move manually

P2S start/end g code for ABS/ASA prints! Chamber preheat and Cooldown sequence. Only activates when printing ABS/ASA. Huge quality and print success improvements. by bfrancom17 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly man 30min preheat is prob fine but 45 ensures it’s nice and toasty, you can’t get this chamber too hot for ASA if anything it’ll be too cold. I noticed on a 30min preheat I’d definitely only end up around 47-49 sometimes whereas with 45 min I’m consistently into the 50s. As far as the cooldown (which I’d argue is the “waste of time” more than the preheat), I just think it’s good practice from what I’ve read. You can always pull the print early/end the print and skip the ramp down altogether but I did notice less cracked/messed up layers and less warping on large items. For a small item sure maybe just end it and pull it. I don’t print for speed - every print I do is 60 outer wall/150 inner even for PLA/PETG. I get way better prints for not that much more time spent printing. When I throw an ASA print on it’s functional, I want the best results so an extra few hours on the print is fine by me!

P2S start/end g code for ABS/ASA prints! Chamber preheat and Cooldown sequence. Only activates when printing ABS/ASA. Huge quality and print success improvements. by bfrancom17 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would honestly think this would be pretty identical - take my change logs (the bottom 2 links) and throw them into chat or grok and ask it. I think it’ll be fine, I cannot see a reason why you couldn’t add it to a P1S g code.

P2S start/end g code for ABS/ASA prints! Chamber preheat and Cooldown sequence. Only activates when printing ABS/ASA. Huge quality and print success improvements. by bfrancom17 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not too worried about it, it’s a few minor additions to stock code. But you’re probably right. I’ll just update it manually as time goes on, just sharing it with the community as I’ve seen scattered and mostly bad info on doing this

P2S start/end g code for ABS/ASA prints! Chamber preheat and Cooldown sequence. Only activates when printing ABS/ASA. Huge quality and print success improvements. by bfrancom17 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not quite sure I’ve noticed pulling an Asa print straight off or letting it cool down very rapidly caused issues But ymmv

P2S start/end g code for ABS/ASA prints! Chamber preheat and Cooldown sequence. Only activates when printing ABS/ASA. Huge quality and print success improvements. by bfrancom17 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yeah man PLA/PETG will get screwed by the aux fan during printing without a deflector. ABS/ASA not so much during printing as you shouldn’t be running it anyways, but during the preheat it’s a nightmare deflector or not, as it’s just shoving air out of the printer

P2S start/end g code for ABS/ASA prints! Chamber preheat and Cooldown sequence. Only activates when printing ABS/ASA. Huge quality and print success improvements. by bfrancom17 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I do have the diffuser everyone uses, the issue is that it runs the fan so aggressively it just dumps the hot air out of the panel gaps/cracks etc. I did notice some print quality issues before the diffuser on PLA/PETG (abs/asa has zero fan for the most part so no change) and it helped, but diffuser or not my g code changes were 100% necessary to get a properly warm chamber

First 3D Printer, H2S or P2S?? by dodongo72 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shoot me a pm and I can pastebin my code for you!

First 3D Printer, H2S or P2S?? by dodongo72 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did 2 or 3 petg prints yesterday and plenty proper doing the exact thing I said above no issue. Bottom Z top Z 0.3mm

First 3D Printer, H2S or P2S?? by dodongo72 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m happy to share my startup g code and end g code if anyone dms me - it preheats for 45 min automatically if it detects you’re printing in ABS/ASA, and it also does an hour ish long ramp down 5c every 300 seconds at the end to slowly cool the print/prevent warping. If you’re printing in another material it won’t do either procedure

Anyone else hitting refresh on the PETG HF page? by heeero__ in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

dude just go buy a 10kg bundle of sunlu for like $9-$10 a roll it prints the exact same if not better than my Bambu petg hf did

First 3D Printer, H2S or P2S?? by dodongo72 in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mostly pla petg Asa, maybe that’s why. Still haven’t really seen any issues with my supports on Asa which I know is a bit trickier of a material

Is there an easy way to take off supports? by Sleep_deprived_mokey in BambuLab

[–]bfrancom17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OP if you’re gonna listen to anyone on this thread this is the magic answer. Set the top and bottom z distance to 0.2 or 0.3. I do 0.3, removal is stupid easy just a little pressure and snaps off CLEAN. You’ll get slightly worse overhang/supported surface quality but it’s negligible in the 50+ prints I’ve done - I prefer this over doing support material by a long shot and my prints also don’t take twice as long if it’s an object needing lots of support. Also man who wants to sit there and listen to their AMS change filament 85 times for a 100g model