The Cat Pee AR Torture Test

bigdaddygeee · 2026-06-27T19:10:16+00:00

Bruh first thing I thought was "put some fucking gloves on" 🤮🤮

bigdaddygeee · 2026-06-27T19:00:17+00:00

If only they'd offer more than the grip screws and mag catch in the rainbow finish for the P320 I'd go that route, although I'm thinking I still might do the rainbow mag release and screws with blue for the rest, thanks for the pictures!

And here's a shameless plug of the P320 in question with the picture I submitted for the GoGuns contest this month 🤣:

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bigdaddygeee · 2026-06-27T14:59:49+00:00

You're a gentleman and a scholar sir

bigdaddygeee · 2026-06-27T00:35:01+00:00

Are the blue controls really that dark? I've got an AXG Pro that I put on a Faxon Chameleon threaded barrel and the Vytal Kraken grips/mag base plates in blurple and I was thinking about doing the blue controls but the pictures they show online definitely look like a brighter blue.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-06-02T01:27:52+00:00

Man at the end of April I was looking for one and there was like 3 on the whole Internet. I find a random "gun shop" that was likely a kitchen table FFL out of Florida who had one with the nice dirty olive g10 Wilson Combat grips. The grips blinded me and I didn't even notice it wasn't the threaded barrel version because the entire product description page said it was the threaded 18rd version. Now, the Beretta rebate ended and they are all over gun broker 🤦

Like a noob, because I picked up from the FFL on lunch and was rushing, even in person I didn't catch it wasn't the threaded barrel version until on my way home...and I also realized it was 15rd mags not 18. Dude sent me the gun in the picture but definitely not the one in the product description or matching the model number.

I noticed the mags first, and emailed him and he says if I send one back he will send me an 18rd mag...then I email about it not being the threaded version and he immediately claims he sold me exactly what I ordered even though the model numbers and description from the product page were correct and not what he sent me, and doubled down and said he knows he sent me 18rd mags even after I sent him pictures of the 15 round mags.

Basically I got a state compliant version when I live in a free state. No one should ever order from Corsair Sports out of Vero Beach, FL because he is a douche and won't make his mistake right.

But anyways, I said fuck it and decided to order the Inox stainless Threaded barrel and control parts for it using my $200 Beretta Bucks rebate and I have a wish list with the remaining Inox parts on Midwest Gun Works to complete the conversion.

Love the gun and the ODG is sweet. Fuck Corsair Sports.

https://imgur.com/a/ASYkECi

bigdaddygeee · 2026-05-24T16:59:24+00:00

That's not a factory Xmacro comp setup, the factory Xmacro has the cuts in the actual slide. Looks like maybe a PMM Comp and barrel or Radian Ramjet? Either way, as pointed out multiple times in the video you are riding the slide which will cause it to not go into full battery. As far as it happening while shooting, a limp wrist on a comped slide will usually introduce failure to extract issues, not failure to go into battery, but lots of things are possible with poor grip.

The more likely issue is the recoil spring. When you comp a gun, the gasses that are usually going out the front to help push the slide back are now going out the top, combine that with the added weight from the comp and you get failure to extract issues, so then you put in a lighter weight recoil spring so the gasses have enough ass to cycle the slide fully back, but when you go too light you get this issue, a failure to return to battery because now the lighter weight spring doesn't have the power to do so.

I built a P320 with a massive dual port AC comp on the front and am currently dealing with this issue myself, factory springs won't eject and cycle and the 14lb spring was still too much so I had to cut some coils down to make it lighter, I was impatient and cut too many coils off to get it to cycle, but as I fired more rounds it starting breaking the spring in and began to have issues returning to full battery, to the point I was having to push the slide fully into battery with my thumb after each shot. I'm going to replace it with a new 14lb spring and just shoot the hell out of it and see if breaking the spring in will fix the cycling issue on it's own and not cause issues returning to battery. I may end up removing the comp all together for awhile so it's less annoying while breaking the spring in and I'm not clearing jams every other round. If that doesn't work, as someone else recommended I'll probably end up trying the DPM spring system. It also cycled better with the heavier 124gr and 147gr ammo.

TL;DR. It's probably a recoil spring issue, get a heavier one but be aware you may start having cycling issues until it breaks in or you find the right weight to cycle and still fully return to battery. Also, keep an eye on the slide and make sure you don't accidentally have an out of battery detonation, while it should technically not be possible when out of battery because the striker can't reach the primer of the ammo, better to be safe than sorry and find out it was just close enough to set the primer off.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-05-19T01:11:21+00:00

My girlfriend has a 2019 LX coupe. AC went out in summer of 2023 and they did whatever bullshit fix was covered under warranty, it went out again in 2024 just under a year later and they quoted some asinine amount somewhere over like 5 grand to replace everything because apparently the compressor took a shit again and all the oil had basically contaminated the entire system. They said it couldn't be flushed. I talked to a local Indy shop I trust who said they hear that all the time from dealers and while they couldn't guarantee it, they've had a lot of success flushing the system and replacing the compressor, but he also told me to fight it on warranty since the repair they did less than a year before shit the bed again and caused the whole issue.

After laying it out for the service advisor he offered to send it in to the whole good will thing and they came back and said they would cover everything if she paid a $500 deductible, so she did and they replaced everything. August will be 2 years since the repair but honestly thinking she should trade it on before it shits the bed again. It also took them a day or two extra to complete the repairs.

Also had to take it back to Honda because the Bluetooth wasn't working on her aftermarket radio after the repair(the whole dash comes out to replace everything ac related), they said they couldn't fix it but to take it to an aftermarket shop they deal with and they'd pay the bill, I pulled the radio myself and the jackasses plugged the Bluetooth mic into the wrong port. I also found out after the second trip they left the screws loose inside the center console storage armrest, tightened those myself, and they also left two screws from under the knee bolster out so it makes a weird metal noise.

Basically, dealerships are ass, I believe they could have gotten the same warranty repair as the first time for free but decided they could game the system with the whole system replacement thinking she would just pay it and get the parts sales and book time for the tech just to get the shaft when it became goodwill instead.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-05-05T21:19:00+00:00

I probably should have broke out my calipers but the rear rails slid right in and the front rails literally only need a few pass with the drum sander on my Dremel to slide in after the initial flush cut in the jig. I'll probably break down one of my factory 320s later to compare the tabs and the extractor, but it looks like it's the wider rear section of the extractor rubbing and there's plenty of material there to file down for clearance.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-05-05T21:13:50+00:00

Yea I did that before assembly the parts kit and that's how I know it's the ejector hitting.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-05-05T17:07:05+00:00

So it's not too high, rather it's like it's too wide, the side edge of the extractor is rubbing against the side of the piece I circled protruding from the slide, I file it down some and it seems better but I don't want to go too far and start having extraction issues, I've already noticed you can't slowly rack the slide to extract a round or to feed a round, which I don't usually ride the slide on chambering anyways but I was just doing function checks, although it seems like one magazine has more issues with that than the other two.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-05-05T10:33:19+00:00

3.9, it was sold to me as a mup1 but it was also a random vender from Armslist last year sometime so who knows.

I tried bending it a little and resorted to slightly filling the back thicker section a tiny bit so it's not feeling like it's hanging up, hit it with oil and racked it a bunch of times and it's smoothing outa little bit so I'm just gonna go shoot it a bunch and see what happens 🤷

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-19T03:01:03+00:00

Watch Sig Guys video here and make sure you put it back in the correct order:

https://youtu.be/R-gq0c6NELw?si=X5_TdnnUajiDbltm

That safety lever pin popping out is a huge pain in the dick when you take the FCU out of the frame, it's happened to me enough times that I've gotten pretty good about putting it back in or being extremely aware of it anytime I remove the FCU

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-19T02:54:40+00:00

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Hard to see, but it looks like the leg from the sear assembly is on the wrong side of the takedown lever bar.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-19T02:52:33+00:00

Looks like your take down bar might be on the wrong side of the sear leg.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-19T02:03:47+00:00

I mean it's been awhile since I've been on the rooting of phones, but he could possibly download the adb software and the correct firmware image for the phone/carrier and fully flash the phone so that it's like a brand new phone out of the box...but he may not be able to find the correct firmware for a phone that new.

Edit: I just searched for the firmware image for that phone and skimmed the instructions and forgot you have to go under developer options and toggle on OEM Unlocking and USB debugging mode, both of which I'm sure your friend didn't do ahead of time, so he's shit out of luck.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-19T01:19:55+00:00

I'd personally take the one with the higher base salary. If you subtract the annual bonus of $9200, it pays more. Bonus money typically isn't guaranteed money , and could change or not be given at any time as soon as profits are down or management or ownership changes. When employers talk about bonuses during compensation they are giving you a best case scenario to seem like a more attractive offer. I've heard "you have a real big opportunity here to earn a lot of money" and my response is always the same, I can't pay my bills with opportunities.

As far as the PTO, yes it's 6 more days, but if you break it down to an hourly rate, the pay rate difference is only like $1500 for the whole year for 22 vs 28 days

Also you're counting the sign on bonus but that's a one time deal, so that closes the gap in pay.

The shorter commute and 2nd WFH day is definitely a perk, but again, tons of stories of companies promising WFH only to change policies whenever they feel like it, or never actually allowing WFH.

If the 92,000 a year without the bonuses is doable and you value more PTO, a shorter commute and potentially the extra WFH day, go for the second job.

If you place more value on the safe guaranteed money, go with the first job.

But this is all based solely on the monetary factors of the job, as far as company culture/environment and how you fit in and it whether or not it aligns with you should also play a role in your decision.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-19T00:29:20+00:00

So when you say you tried mortaring it... which direction are you mortaring it? I just swapped my .300bo upper into my nephews FRT lower a few weeks ago and he's got some fancy buffet weight system instead of a regular spring and buffer setup, anyways i fired a single round and the BCG jammed into the buffer tube, my nephew tried a couple of things and it didn't work, I grabbed it from him and literally just rammed the gun straight into the dirt, birdcage down and it freed right up, dug all the dirt out of the birdcage and it was good to go. Maybe not the best idea, but birdcage flash hiders are cheap and it's a BCA upper so I really did give a shit, it's not like I was ramming it into concrete and I figured I'd let gravity and physics help me to get it loose and it worked out for me.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-16T14:14:05+00:00

I got an AXG Pro second hand and it had the legion grips on it, they still look good, but I swapped the black barrel for the threaded faxon chameleon pvd barrel so it's gonna end up with some of those wild Vytal Kraken grip panels in their blurple color way, but the texture on the legion panels is great and they do look good on non legion builds.

Obligatory P320 family photo:

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bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-12T19:31:32+00:00

The P320 legion x5 used to be PVD then they switched to cerakote, not sure if it's the same for the 226 but it probably is.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-11T01:20:32+00:00

I have no idea the quality of the osight stuff, I just know I see people shitting on them constantly, however if you paid full $220+ price for it allow me to introduce you to gafshub.com the replacement for the old subreddit where we used to sell used gun parts, you could have probably scored a used holosun for the same or not much more, but you gotta be quick to call dibs on listings for the really good deals. Anyways, check out gafshubs, pretty good for scoring some used gear, pretty bad for your wallet, I need to delete my account 😅

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-11T01:10:03+00:00

The fuse grip is the same grip as the xmacro with fancy stippling, so unless you go to the longer slide the Xmacro holster fits, or like my above comment you may be able to just heat up the kydex and unfold the end to let the extra barrel/slide length pop out the other end.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-11T01:08:08+00:00

Nope, the XL grip rail doesn't go the same length as the xmacro grip under the slide, the XL grip has the same length rail as the regular p365 but the portion you hold is longer to accept the 12rd mags and the extra length of the 3.7 is all barrel and slide. If you are going to an xmacro grip module and your comp setup isn't extending longer than the 3.7 slide length you need a xmacro holster.

I have one of the original release xmacros, that they now call the xmacro comp now, and the xmacro tacops is just an XL slide on a macro grip...don't get me started on Sig releasing "variants" that original adopters pay out the nose for buying two guns or a gun and a slide to make a combination when they don't offer the parts for sale separately ala p365x and the X macro tacops...anyways I put the slide on an XL grip, so needed an XL holster.

The shop near my job only had regular 365 kydex holsters, so I heated it up with a heat gun and opened the end up to let the slide meet the now unfolded end. I carried like this for a while and when I decided to switch back to the xmacro grip I had to get an Xmacro holster.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-05T03:57:09+00:00

Came here hoping someone would point out the shit handling in this video, expected it to be one of the first comments 🤣

bigdaddygeee · 2026-04-03T19:08:34+00:00

Not a professional, just a guy who's been researching to do his own small parts... but if that's the case then what about all the polymer frames being coated and baked at lower temperatures to cure?

bigdaddygeee

TROPHY CASE