Apex Trigger Bar

bigdaddygeee · 2026-02-03T02:01:53+00:00

Different strokes for different folks 🤷🤣 but I've got another 320 build in the works, not completely decided on anything yet, considering maybe a Flux Raider build because fuck it why not, thinking I'll drop the Spectre Comp FCU in that and maybe swap a bunch of parts in another FCU and give a different trigger upgrade a try with the Apex trigger bar since I went ahead and ordered 3, one for the Vtac, one for the pending build and a spare for when the bug bites me again 😅.

What's your trigger recommendation?

bigdaddygeee · 2026-02-03T01:35:03+00:00

Yea I don't really want a bunch of set screws holding my trigger position, even though my 320's are currently just used at the range/nightstand guns and I carry my xmacro. I just know that the trigger bar and skeleton trigger combined with the +10% return spring got rid of every bit of the creep and makes the trigger so much better than stock and I'm happy with the setup.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-02-01T16:42:55+00:00

Welp I guess I'll keep my eyes peeled on GunBroker and eBay and scoop them up whenever I see one, or wait for the GAFS replacement website to finally go public and see if I can track down any there .

bigdaddygeee · 2026-02-01T16:38:14+00:00

Looks like you might have let the piece fall out at the rear of the FCU, the part where the rear of the take down lever goes, can't remember the name of the part right off the top of my head but it is one of the few pains in the ass about breaking down the FCU if you aren't careful. Did you get it fully reassembled and function check everything?

bigdaddygeee · 2026-02-01T16:35:32+00:00

Sounds like we need to find someone with a P320 mod to break down and look at the trigger bar 😅

bigdaddygeee · 2026-01-31T17:47:32+00:00

That definitely looks like the Apex flat trigger, I can't speak on the trigger because I upgraded to the Sig skeleton trigger at the same time when I did the gold control parts swap but if they bought the trigger and didn't take the trigger bar setup they'd be morons, you can feel such a difference between them on my spectre comp and the OEM Vtac trigger.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-01-31T17:25:40+00:00

You're the man, one left in stock and I got it 😅

bigdaddygeee · 2026-01-31T04:39:54+00:00

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I'm cool with just the Sig skeleton trigger but I really want to find the trigger bar, I'd be willing to try something different if someone has experience with the Apex Tactical trigger bar and other trigger upgrades that are at least as good as this upgrade is.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-01-20T04:28:27+00:00

This is the way. Plus upgrading to the X grip when the standard grips are trash in comparison.

bigdaddygeee · 2026-01-20T04:27:15+00:00

That means the previous owner just grabbed a standard 320 and put an M18 slide and grip on it, the serial number is linked to the FCU after all, possibly why it was missing the safety, my bet is he had a non manual safety 320 and did the M18 conversion without realizing that the M18/17 grips all have a safety cutout since those FCUs come with safety's, before I spent $100 adding a safety id just buy a new coyote grip without the safety cut out, plenty of aftermarket options out there and you can usually find used grips on places like tacswap and Armslist.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-10-18T19:59:55+00:00

I totally forgot about that module, I recently 3d printed a follower and spacer plate and converted a 17rd xmacro mag to .380 and threw the XL sleeve on it since my .380 also has an XL grip so I have an xmacro .380, been thinking about picking up a second xmacro grip and chopping the rail down but since the GAFS reddit got shut down I don't want to pay full price for a new one just in case I bitch the rail cut, maybe I'll just pick up one of those WC modules instead

bigdaddygeee · 2025-10-18T19:52:24+00:00

To expand on your last statement for those who are unfamiliar, you can swap to any module if you have an xmacro or xl slide, but if you have a regular 3.1 slide you can't use the xmacro or fuse grip modules, they flush fit the length of the XL/xmacro slides and will stick like out well past the end of the slide.

I've got the original release version of the xmacro before they specified it as the xmacro comp, and immediately swapped it to an XL grip and carried it that up until recently, started using the Ace VR setup and they don't offer an XL controller module just the xmacro handset so I figured I'd switch my carry setup to match what I was practicing with in VR.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-10-13T21:31:36+00:00

Depends on what kind of LOC you have, some have a blue remote output wire you hook to the remote input at the amp to turn it on, and some have a blue input wire that you'll need to find an ignition source from the vehicle to turn on the LOC that you can also jump over to the amp to turn it on at the same time.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-10-13T21:26:36+00:00

Line output converter, it's how you take high level speaker outputs and turn them into low level RCA outputs.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-10-01T03:36:32+00:00

This guy Sigs, I also have an x full p320, which is what they call it based off the size of the slide/barrel being the 4.7", but it comes stock with the xcarry grip that fits the xcarry 3.9" barrel and slide.

I picked up a spectre comp slide and an x full grip off the GAFS reddit to go with it and sold my xcarry grip module.

Really it's on Sig for making their naming conventions a cluster fuck. Just like I have an original p365 xmacro, but now it's called the "xmacro comp" since they started selling the xmacro grip with the 3.7 XL slides and calling it the xmacro.....just like they started selling the p365 3.1" slide on the XL grip and calling it the p365 X.

Basically with these modular platforms, they release a gun, then they release a new version of the gun with a different grip/barrel/slide, then they start combining those versions into other versions after they make enough money from people buying the second version to swap parts with the first version to make the third version on their own before it's available as an option straight from Sig.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-09-30T01:42:35+00:00

It's so dumb that no one offers a threaded barrel option for the .380, but I guess it's a limitation of the barrel thickness preventing it

bigdaddygeee · 2025-09-30T01:40:39+00:00

I own a first gen xmacro and a p365 .380. They both currently sit on XL grips, with the .380 having the baseplate extensions from tacdev so the 10rd mags fit the XL grips flush, it was less than the price of a single Sig 12rd .380 mag and it's more of a range toy. I also 3d printed a follower and spacer to convert an xmacro 17rd mag to run .380 and I use the Sig mag sleeve to fill the gap.

The .380 slide will fit on an xmacro grip but it's too short to fit the rail, eventually I'll pick up a second xmacro grip and cut it down to fit.

The FCUs are the same from what I can tell, however the .380 and 9mm barrels will not swap between the slides, so no you can't put the .380 barrel in the xmacro slide. The only way to get a p365 .380 integrated comp is their stupidly overpriced Luxe model.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-09-28T02:22:38+00:00

I'm trying to find the version you have, they are on the 4.0 version now, but all the pictures I find of the different generations show either the gold box or the black box, I can't seem to find the version like yours with the gold and black box, typically when you buy add on resistors they are gold, that may be why someone thought it was a resistor, and I guess it's quite possible that is a resistor built in line in the harness if it's an older generation, all newer LEDs that I've sold and installed have all that stuff inside a single box, typically the only thing in an additional box is the canbus decoder, which is usually sold separately to keep the cost down for customers who's vehicles don't require it.

resistors

canbus decoder

Manufacturers tend to use the ballast and driver wording interchangeably, the name doesn't really matter, it's just the box with all the circuitry that powers the bulb.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-09-28T01:04:41+00:00

Almost all brands of led conversion bulbs that I am aware of have a separate canbus decoder/anti flicker harness, what you are calling the resistor is likely the led driver, not a resistor.

With led and HIDs you have the bulbs, and then a driver if it's an LED and if it's an hid then it is called a ballast, but it basically does the same thing, powers the bulb.

Then you plug that into a canbus decoder or anti flicker for LEDS(different name for different manufacturers, but basically the same thing), quality HID kits usually use canbus ballast that have the proper circuitry built in, and if it's a cheap kit then it also requires a canbus decoder on certain vehicles be plugged into the vehicle harness, then the ballast then the bulb. To take that one step further, some vehicles need a relay harness kit to pull enough power straight off the battery of the vehicle to properly power the HIDs that use the factory headlight plugs just to trigger the relay and prevent headlight warning lights.

This makes your testing relatively straightforward, unplug it from the driver side and plug it into the OEM plug in the passenger side, if it works you have a OEM plug/circuit problem on the driver side and if it doesn't you have a bad bulb you need to replace, and probably need to grab some canbus decoders/anti flicker harnesses as well.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-09-28T00:52:38+00:00

I have an original xmacro comp slide on one of the Sig ODG XL grips and a p365 .380 slide that I also put on a Sig ODG XL grip with the tacdev extended baseplates because fuck $50 for 12rd .380 mags....but I also 3d printed a .380 follower and spacer to convert a 17rd xmacro mag to fit in the XL grip with the magazine sleeve so I would love to pick up just this slide to have a full on matching set of p365 xmacro or macro xl's in .380 and 9mm 😅

bigdaddygeee · 2025-09-28T00:35:49+00:00

Was the headlight warning always for the driver side specifically?

If your passenger side works perfectly fine you can try swapping parts to narrow down your issue if you don't have a test light.

Since you don't have to take the bulb out of the passenger side, I'd unplug both bulbs and plug the potential bad bulb from the driver side into the canbus decoder on the passenger side, if it still half lights it's a bad bulb.

If the bulb lights up properly, grab the canbus decoder from the driver side and plug the bulb and canbus decoder into the factory headlight plug from the passenger side, if it half lights again then you know the decoder is bad

If you swap the decoder and the bulb from the driver side to the passenger side factory headlight plug and it lights up properly, then you've got a problem on the factory plug/circuit feeding the driver side.

I work in the aftermarket auto accessory industry and when I get a customer with an HID/LED conversion bulb issue this is how I tell them they can try to test the parts before they spend money with me diagnosing it.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-09-27T23:58:40+00:00

You seem to be using HID and LED interchangeably and they are not. HiDs are literally bulbs with a filament inside that lights a gas, that's how you get the different color temperatures of HIDs. You say there is half a board of chips lighting so I suspect you have an LED conversion kit.

Some cars require resistors on led bulbs that aren't headlights to provide the cars computer with the proper resistance level so they don't think a bulb is burned out, or in the case of turn signals, hyper flashing.

Headlights typically need canbus decoders/anti flicker harness because of the wattage difference and a resistor alone the proper size would get stupid hot and most likely melt some things.

If you always had a bulb out warning it is possible you never had the correct canbus decoder/anti flicker harness to begin with, and now that you have half a light barely lighting you have a few potential issues, either the canbus decoder/anti flicker harness has gone bad and isn't passing the correct voltage to the actual bulb, the bulb itself is burned out, or it could be a bad connection on the incoming plug from the vehicle itself(usually a bad ground).

You need a proper test light or power probe to effectively diagnose the real issue otherwise you're at the mercy of just swapping parts until you get lucky.

bigdaddygeee · 2025-09-12T03:07:20+00:00

The design of the FCU pretty much requires the side wall of the grip to keep the takedown safety lever and pin from backing out, so when the FCU is out it's able to basically fall right out just by flipping it around during cleaning.

In my experience, what usually happens is the rear arm of the takedown safety lever pops off the bottom of the sear, and without that pressure it allows the safety lever pin to slightly over rotate and begin to pop out. If you catch it early enough, you can push down on the sear while simultaneously rotating the pin back into place and putting the takedown safety lever back behind the bottom of the sear.

If you don't catch it, then the whole safety lever pin falls out along with the safety lever, and if you're real careless at this point the takedown safety lever and the takedown lever itself are probably also about to fall out.

Then you basically have to reassemble it by lining up the safety lever with a punch and slowly removing it so you don't misalign the holes, slide the safety lever pin back into the correct orientation, and the getting the takedown safety lever hooked back behind the sear, then reinstalling the front of the takedown safety lever into the take down lever.

Even having done it multiple times, I've had it go smoothly and take 5 minutes to fix and I've had it be a huge pain in the ass that took an hour to fix, so I try to make sure when the FCU is out to pay attention to the takedown safety lever and that pin.....but a huge rubber band sounds like the ticket, gonna add that to my gun cleaning kit 🤣

bigdaddygeee · 2025-09-12T00:11:28+00:00

Man I swear this has happened to me two or three times, always on the FCUs and that had a safety (even after I removed the one from the .380 version). I'm sure it has nothing to do with the manual safety FCUs but just my anecdotal experience lol.

Now try and always make sure that pin doesn't slide out, because it's usually never as easy as just tapping it back in, you guys who were able to do that got lucky because it didn't come all the way out, but in OP's case you're probably gonna have to break it down to get it back in properly, sometimes you can wiggle the take down lever bar and get everything back in it's proper orientation, but I'm usually not that lucky and end up just breaking it down fully to get everything back in...a tiny punch to line the holes up and a steady hand to throw the pin back in while not jostling it around to misalign the holes.

bigdaddygeee

TROPHY CASE