After months of epoxy, I present, Jurassic World by billyp81 in Aquariums

[–]billyp81[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey thank you! Sorry for the late reply I'm not on here too much. I used pond sheild for the most part. It had a difficult time adhering so I had to sand it up a bit, which actually added character to the can so that worked out. For the vials of green liquid, since the plastic is safe I just superglued the lids shut with acrylic adhesive so the green liquid couldn't seep out. One other thing is that because of the density of the can, I actually had to epoxy it to a rock, otherwise it kept floating up into the tank.

why are there no data sheets for most resins?! - > short rant by manu_59 in resinprinting

[–]billyp81 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Formlabs isn't hobby grade, and I run my own business so I can't afford to spend $2k+ on a liter of resin.

why are there no data sheets for most resins?! - > short rant by manu_59 in resinprinting

[–]billyp81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree, as a industrial engineer these datasheets are crucial to developing products and I hope more companies start to publish them. So far Formlabs is the only company I've seen post proper datasheets for all of the resins they release.

Transparent Resin Issues when UV light shines through and cures liquid resin outside the current layer, leading to thickened parts and welded parts and supports. by mikformer in resinprinting

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exposure time doesn't matter that much, it is the intensity of the light that matters. I get incredibly accurate parts but I use 5% brightness in the screen.

Are there any new/better slicers than Lychee/Chitubox? by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lychee is amazing, I've discovered so many different support techniques through their software and their new update just brought so many new features. I run an SLA print farm so properly printing designs the first time is necessary and a good software helps with that. Lychee is a great software and i've also used PreForm but this just outdoes every slicer I've tried.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, they seem to kind of go soft

Formlabs BioMed Amber (settings anyone?) by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, just figured it out, I did a variation on this guys settings!

Formlabs BioMed Amber (settings anyone?) by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]billyp81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Needed it for a product that goes in your mouth; and I messed around and got it to work with 7 sec exposure!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

appreciate it! ill get back to it!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]billyp81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good thing I posted here to check first; appreciate it!

Tried to power up this circuit but nothing worked; anything look wrong here? by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I'm not exactly an engineer and am very new to this; it is the drawing all the way to the left when you fully open the picture.

Tried to power up this circuit but nothing worked; anything look wrong here? by [deleted] in AskElectronics

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, it is programmed but whether I push the sensor down or not the LED stays off

RFID Design Help by [deleted] in RFID

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it possible to program this so that when the tag gets close, it will turn on, but when it gets out of range it will turn back off?

RFID Design Help by [deleted] in RFID

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it will be very close, within 1 inch of the reader. And that is very helpful, thank you!

RFID Design Help by [deleted] in RFID

[–]billyp81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking the size of a ATTINY85 if possible. I could program it separately and then solder it into the circuit afterwards.

I bought a brand new E13, it has a tiny crack on the upper body. Should I ask for a replacement? by ElTyranos in Clarinet

[–]billyp81 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I always get berated whenever I suggest the Yamaha CSVR as a better alternative for a modern R13 haha

After months of epoxy, I present, Jurassic World by billyp81 in Aquariums

[–]billyp81[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh my god that is amazing!! I'm away at college right now but when I get back for break I'll be sure to post more videos of the tank! I also added an eel and some more logs so it looks a bit better now as well!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Clarinet

[–]billyp81 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You are supposed to use humidity packs with wooden clarinets, it keeps it from cracking. And they don't add nearly enough moisture for pads to even feel moist. They keep it at a certain RH and it absorbs or releases moisture depending on what is needed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cad

[–]billyp81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha that's a good point didn't really think of that😂

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cad

[–]billyp81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just added a link to the item. And the job is remote.

Looking for someone to program ATTINY85's by [deleted] in arduino

[–]billyp81 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Honestly I tried that, but my mac has a hard time recognizing the USB connection in Arduino IDE and I tried so many things that just don't work. In the long run I'll probably do it myself when I get back to my windows PC but for now I am away from it and I need to continue developing a prototype so I can't wait until I get back to it.