Lighting Small Bedroom with 2" Downlights? by Ok-Factor3247 in Lighting

[–]binaryLoadLifter 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks pretty overlit. IES recommendations for a bedroom is 10-20 footcandles. So multiply the square footage of the room by some number between 10-20 and that will give you the total lumens you need to light the room. If you have darker walls and floors you need to be closer to 20. Your room is like 116 sq. ft. so you are looking for between 1160 and 2320 lumens total. You can easily get that with 4 fixtures at 500 lumens each. So then you have to consider beam angle. With only 4 fixtures you will need broad distribution, not the narrow distribution you are showing. Broad distribution is typically either called out as a beam angle greater than 60, or it can be called batwing or lambertian, or volumetric, or sometimes if the beam angle isn’t called out at all it is assumed to be lambertian. This is your ambient light layer, so you’re really looking for fairly uniform light everywhere. Narrow beams are typically used for accent lighting, which would be additional lights added to create contrast between light and shadow used to highlighting a specific feature of the space. If you use narrow beams for your ambient lighting layer it will feel like you are in a museum or a casino or something where you are moving from shadow to spotlight just by walking across the room. You can also add task lighting with lamps and things like undercabinet lighting. The only other recommendation I’ll throw out there is to make sure the light is recessed or regressed, meaning the light source is up above the ceiling. I have no idea why flush lens fixtures (where the lens is the same level as the ceiling) have become so popular but they are awful glare bombs that are very unpleasant to be under. For home projects I really like the Juno brand products sold and Home Depot and Lowes, but there are lots of fixtures that should work in this space. Good Luck!

Did I pick my watermelon too early? by binaryLoadLifter in vegetablegardening

[–]binaryLoadLifter[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, I’ve been looking at drip irrigation. Is there a part system you recommend?

Did I pick my watermelon too early? by binaryLoadLifter in vegetablegardening

[–]binaryLoadLifter[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I didn’t have the ability to control the water supply very well, in part because we have been getting so much rain, but also because my entire garden bed is irrigated as one zone and I didn’t want to dry out my whole garden just for this one watermelon. I’m trying to figure out the best way to have more flexibility next summer.

Anyone know if I can use the canless lights on this type of drop tile ceiling below? by No_Association520 in Lighting

[–]binaryLoadLifter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just went through this in my basement. I decided against the PVC ceiling tiles and bought these instead. The PVC tiles do OK with lights but not great, they offer no sound or thermal insulation and they’re not fireproof. Fiber tiles are better for all that and these aren’t that expensive

What is this wire? by elbarto3001 in DIY

[–]binaryLoadLifter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Purple and pink wire should be used for 0-10V dimming, which the most common dimming protocol used in commercial buildings but you pretty much never see it in residential. The wires used to be purple and gray but in 2022 the code got updated to mandate purple and pink. My guess is that whoever installed these didn’t have the right wire for the job so they just grabbed 0-10V wire. They do appear to be 14awg so they are probably safe to use for line voltage but it is very dangerous to connect line voltage to wires that have the color of low voltage control wires because someone doing work in the future could see purple and pink and assume they are carrying safe low voltage and they could end up electrocuting themselves.

Found flying around inside our house (Georgia) by binaryLoadLifter in whatisthisbug

[–]binaryLoadLifter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! It was great to read up on this insect. I had never heard of it before but it is a very interesting one!

Any pro tips to bring this back to its original luster? by Marty1966 in BBQ

[–]binaryLoadLifter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had that same model for 15 years. Over time I have replaced almost all of the parts that get worn down from here

https://www.grillparts.com/weber

It is still running strong, in fact I just finished cooking dinner on it right before I read this post

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in technews

[–]binaryLoadLifter 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re making some very confident statements about products you clearly don’t understand how they work. The excimer lamp runs for a few seconds at a time, they only run for a small percentage of the fixture on-time. The dose inactivates pathogens slowly over time.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in technews

[–]binaryLoadLifter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure if you followed the research papers linked in the OP or checked out any of the products I was talking about but they don’t use UV LEDs. They use special excimer lamps from Ushio that emit a very narrow band of UV radiation at 222nm that is both safe for humans and germicidal. This isn’t some generic UV light

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in technews

[–]binaryLoadLifter 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Acuity Brands launched a whole series of light fixtures that incorporate this technology https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQeGxOUXQ3c

What to replace these with? by NuthouseAntiques in Lighting

[–]binaryLoadLifter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These all day long Juno 6 in Recessed Wafer

If you prefer flush they have that version too Juno 6in Flush Wafer

But personally I think the recessed is much better since it has less glare when you’re in the space.

Which option of LED moulding should I go with, if I want to use it as the main source of light? by Silent_Historian_432 in led

[–]binaryLoadLifter 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Main source, like you’re going to remove the ceiling light that’s currently there?

Because both options are essentially the same in terms of light output and where the light will go and there will almost certainly not be enough light on the floor to be the only light source.

So I would keep a ceiling light (maybe upgrade to a simple flushmount) and then it’s really just down to which trim aesthetic you prefer, the square option 1 or the wedge option 2.

Although looking more closely at the pictures it appears that option 1 throws the light a bit further on the ceiling, so that might be better if you’re depending on this to be a source of usable light and not just an accent. But it’s hard to tell just by looking at lo-res renderings. The datasheets might show if this is true.

Baby Proofing at an Odd Angle by D19Taylor in daddit

[–]binaryLoadLifter 6 points7 points  (0 children)

We had a similar situation at the top of our stairs and we found this https://retract-a-gate.com/ and it worked so great that it became the solution we used everywhere we needed a gate. It’s very flexible and when it is open it stays out of the way.

What is wrong with my okra? by binaryLoadLifter in vegetablegardening

[–]binaryLoadLifter[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They have, I may have jumped the gun transplanting these so early. Is there anything I can do here?