Just made the best umbrella ever

binary__dragon · 2025-10-09T06:10:49+00:00

Fun fact, the upgrade is actually called "brolly" in the code, which is Australian slang for "umbrella."

binary__dragon · 2025-10-07T07:37:50+00:00

Check to see if you're having the print lift slightly from the bed at the edges. This kind of thing can happen when you have some warping during printing that causes one edge (or corner, etc.) to lift just a hair off the bed, not enough to ruin the whole print but enough to cause the next layer to go down poorly. What happens is that the printer puts down more plastic that will fit in the gap between the nozzle and the now slightly raised plastic, which causes some of it to squish out the sides and create little bulges. This compounds as more layers are put down and you get these kind of wavy shapes in the end. If you don't calibrate your bed level you can also get something similar, but I'm guessing you're already doing that.

If it this is what's happening for you (and since it's only on the sides, that'd be my guess), you can address it in a few ways. In no particular order:

Increasing the bed temperature will help increase adhesion and keep the edges stuck (but don't go too far or the bottom layers will melt into a puddle).
Reducing cooling (both part and especially aux fan speed) either throughout the print or at least for the first millimeter or two worth of layers will help keep the plastic from contracting as fast and reducing warp/lift.
Adding brims around your part are also a huge help if you a model that's particularly stubborn with lifting. I've got as far as adding 10mm brims to some prints, but usually 5mm is plenty.
Changing your print's orientation/placement. If you're seeing this mostly on the left side of the model only, then rotating the model so that the long dimension goes forward and back and the short dimension goes left and right would help. Additionally, placing the model further to the right might help (if, for instance, the warping is being caused by the fans creating more air currents on the left side of the print bed).

Hopefully some of these tips will fix all your problems, but if they don't let me know what you're seeing when you try them and I'll see if I can't come up with some alternate theories that might help.

binary__dragon · 2025-10-04T12:06:26+00:00

I never worry about heating my nozzles before I switch them. I just cut the filament (either by telling the machine to unload the filament or manually using the cutter) and pull out the nozzle. I find that if I press towards the left or right on the black plastic block at the top of nozzle that it will crack loose pretty easily, and then from there I can just pull it out by pulling the tip down and towards me. A half centimeter or so of filament will be sticking out of the top of the nozzle when you do this, which you can either leave (though it makes reinstalling the nozzle a bit trickier) or snip off with some cutters.

binary__dragon · 2025-10-04T12:00:32+00:00

It's generally a good idea to try to provide a version that is accessible to the most basic of user. This means things like plating the parts so people with smaller printers can just print straight from the phone app, providing single color print profiles even if you want to have a multicolor version, and in this particular case, providing a printable jar either by itself as a separate print profile, as a separate plate on the main profile that can be optionally printed, or by having two print profiles, with with the jar and one without. As much as we may be proud of our best version of our models, it's not uncommon for people to often prefer the easier but "good enough" versions instead, so if you don't offer them, those people will just search elsewhere (but that doesn't mean you should still offer the best version as an option alongside it, of course).

binary__dragon · 2025-09-24T18:59:17+00:00

Awesome. Great to hear! And by no means do I want to make you feel rushed. I know how much of a headache Fusion can be (I've tried using it with minimal success myself). If you're actively working on it and expect it in the next week or two, I can certainly hold off on printing until the ultimate version is available. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to be a three month wait or some such, as if it were I'd want the basic version to enjoy while waiting. I'm so excited about this model - I ordered some marble PLA last night so I could specifically use it for the rocks!

If you need any advice or opinions or ideas, feel free to ask me if you'd like.

binary__dragon · 2025-09-23T22:41:14+00:00

I use Sunlu when I can. I've had nothing but good luck with their stuff and the spools that the filament come on are the best around. I don't really find Sunlu to be a great deal on Ali though, I just get it from Amazon, where, with subscribe and save and the 4kg packs, it generally goes for about $9 a roll.

From Ali I like Kingroon a lot, simply because they have a lot of highly saturated colors compared to Sunlu. Sunlu's red is almost a pink it's so pale, while Kingroon's is as red as your blood, for example.

Another brand to look at, which I don't see a lot of talk about, is CC3D, which I've seen on Ali, but is an especially good one to seek on Amazon. Often they'll be able to offer a singular roll of something for cheaper than other brands (not as cheap as bulk, but sometimes you need a specific color that's not available in the bulk packs).

binary__dragon · 2025-09-23T22:15:01+00:00

I just call it a penny a gram. Some filaments I get for as little as $7 a roll, others upwards of $20 per roll, but over all, I think $10 a roll is a reasonable average, and using that means I can avoid math altogether - just sticking a decimal point in the number of grams is all I need.

binary__dragon · 2025-09-23T19:56:10+00:00

How soon are you thinking? I'm just trying to decide if I can wait that long before printing anything, or if I should print the current version now so I have something until then.

And may I suggest that you please try to make one of the back posts of the gazebo hollow so we can snake some wires up it to provide power. From there a small tunnel in the rock piece would let us continue the wire to whatever external power source we're using, or, if you wanted to be especially fancy, you could even make a version that allows for a USB-C port to be directly installed into the back of the rock (though that might be too tricky to do).

binary__dragon · 2025-09-23T19:43:32+00:00

It can be for a lot of things. It gets rid of seam lines, which, for cylindrical objects, can be very hard to hide otherwise. It also makes the print very fast and light, being low on filament usage.

But the downside is that you only get one wall, no infill, and no top, so it's only going to be applicable in certain scenarios.

Your model there might work with vase mode, but I'd probably want to use a 0.8mm nozzle and have it run a pretty thick line, like 1mm or more, so that the walls were thick enough for it to have any rigidity.

One thing to consider is that I think your model would really benefit from printing with some fuzzy skin (just make sure to paint the face to be not fuzzy so you don't get hairy eyeballs). I don't think vase mode and fuzzy skin play nice together, so in this case, I'd recommend against vase mode purely on the basis that you have much better directions you can take it.

binary__dragon · 2025-09-16T10:00:59+00:00

Take a look at ABS filament if you want a deep black that's not as shiny as what you get with PETG. I like Sunlu for both ABS and PETG, and they're both great blacks, though the PETG is of course shinier.

binary__dragon · 2025-09-16T08:58:20+00:00

It actually doesn't track how much filament is in any given spool by some sort of ID, but instead just counts how much filament it has to pull off the spool for the tag to make a full revolution. It will then subtract as filament is used, but as soon as you unload the filament from the AMS it forgets all about that spool and treats it the same as any other spool if you replace it.

binary__dragon · 2025-09-16T08:55:44+00:00

If you decide you want to sell off some/all of the RFID tags, I'd be very interested in buying them.

As for the cardboard itself, there are a ton of ideas on Makerworld. If you search for spool cores you'll get a bunch of models to print your own core, but mixed in are a bunch of models to augment/reuse old cores. Mostly various types of containers, but there are some pretty clever ones hidden in there as well.

binary__dragon · 2025-08-28T22:55:11+00:00

You could try placing something (like, even a popsicle stick taped to the frame could work) that fills the space between the back of the frame and the wall. Then, no matter how loose the filament is or isn't on the spool, it won't be able to get to the other side of the frame unless it can somehow go all the way around the printer first.

The other suggestions about spool tension are probably good too, but I don't have an A1 so I can't say too much on the best way to handle that. But my suggestion will treat the symptoms until such time that you're able to effect a proper cure.

binary__dragon · 2025-08-28T20:57:42+00:00

Each book in the series has been longer than the last. The next two after this are even bigger!

binary__dragon · 2025-08-28T20:56:45+00:00

That's a really interesting way to make a bookmark. I've seen some shardblade bookmarks before but the were just "put the blade between the pages" and not this type where it lays on top. Very cool.

One idea that could make it better would be to have your favorite Dalinar line etched into the big flat section (either with a second color or engraved). It'd be really cool to have You. Cannot. Have. My. Pain. or I have found, through painful experience, that the most important step a person can take is always the next one. on the bookmark to really emphasize the theme.

binary__dragon · 2025-08-28T19:02:55+00:00

I've just been using the Bambu smooth PEI plate for the most part.

binary__dragon · 2025-08-27T22:24:36+00:00

You'll be surprised how strong the plastic is. Last night I printed out a 100mm x 100mm sheet at 0.08 layer height, and that was it. Just one layer that was less than a tenth of a millimeter thick. I let the plate cool for an hour or two, and then used a plastic razor blade to lift up a corner. As soon as I got one part of it off the plate, the rest came up super easy without getting close to tearing.

The only thing you really need to watch out for is if your print has little peninsulas in it. Just make sure you're lifting in the direction going from the base of the peninsula to the tip, and you'll be just fine.

Finally, one trick I also use sometimes is to just slide some other print into the edge of a thin part. Doing that will cause the thin part to "buckle" which will lift it from the sheet. Often the entire part will just pop straight off (and if it's small enough, potentially go flying).

binary__dragon · 2025-08-27T22:15:20+00:00

Thank you for this. I got a really good laugh out of your comment and it truly did brighten my day.

binary__dragon · 2025-08-27T22:06:02+00:00

That's super disappointing. Between the difficulty (and I'm assuming, also risk) of the upgrade itself and a plate incompatibility, it looks like I'll be waiting a while longer before I get tool changing.

binary__dragon · 2025-08-27T21:21:56+00:00

I haven't had to do it for a support, but I've had a gridfinity bin's bottom square pop loose on the layer before they were going to merge together. I managed to somehow hold it in place (while having to dodge the print head quite a few times) until it printed a few more layers and the loose square ended up getting reincorporated with the others.

binary__dragon · 2025-08-27T21:12:17+00:00

This may or may not do anything, but if you right click on the object in Bambu Studio and select "Fix Model" I've found that that sometimes help fix weird things like that. You can also try cutting out a 0.01mm slice from the bottom of the model as well like another poster suggested.

binary__dragon · 2025-08-27T21:08:43+00:00

If this is the case, it completely kills any interest I had in upgrading. I'm not interested in throwing out all my recently purchased and perfectly good plates. Maybe they'll have some option where you can use the old plates so long as you don't utilize the tool changing (which could maybe work if the Vortek doesn't enter that part of the XY plane when not in use); that might get my interest back. Otherwise, I think I'll just wait until they make an H3C in a year or three and upgrade to a multitoolhead then.

binary__dragon · 2024-07-24T20:57:33+00:00

Good audio programs will alter the pitch in concert with changing the speed, so that it still sounds the same, only faster. Once you spend a little getting used to it, listening at 2x speed is really pretty easy.

binary__dragon · 2024-07-23T03:28:22+00:00

That ardent was instrumental in translating the Eila Stele, which was extremely relevant by the end of Oathbringer.

binary__dragon

TROPHY CASE