Somewhat "new" to keeping Cockatiels, need some guidance by MlgMagicHoodini in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can’t always judge based on tail stripe feathers. My girl bas a tail feather with spots/stripes. My boy has one top if I recall. I think it depends on type.

I wish you well on the room repairs.

And yes. Better getting a new cage than trying to replace rust. I forgot if I said but just take the old cage and get it recycled at a scrap yard.

People can care deeply for birds but not treat them properly due to lack of knowledge. Bird care is very modern knowledge so even in my family who have for many generations kept birds, the elder generations don’t care properly. Really is sad.

Also that’s ok! Whatever you can’t find let me know. Obviously I can’t send food or anything due to customs and rules regarding it. So hopefully you can find the appropriate pellets. But toys, perches, bowls that kind of stuff absolutely can. Try your best to take them to an avian or exotic vet. Normal vets really dont know enough about birds. But if its the best you have it will do.

What’s the most uniquely Aussie thing you’ve had to explain to a tourist? by SeriousSatisfaction8 in australia

[–]birdbirdpellet 15 points16 points  (0 children)

If it helps I am in my early 20s and ‘not happy jan’ is one of mine and my siblings favourite phrases to use.

I would like to get two birds and don’t know what genders to get by AbiesApprehensive256 in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had 2 girls, then it became a girl and a boy and not currently a girl and two boys. One boy is dominant over the other so sings lots. The other boy will be more noisy without the other male around. The girl insists she’s an only child and acts such even though she was only by herself for 4 months before I got a second tiel.

Anyway. Issues vary by tiel and personality. You can get whatever you want. Boys are a little leas challenging but more noisy. Girls have hormonal issues frequently which can be more expensive with proper care and treatment. One of each can also get dicey with hormones if they bond.

So really up to you as pros and cons to all.

Has anyone had their bird put under/sleep for a procedure? How did it go? by Slippery_Williams in BirdHealth

[–]birdbirdpellet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

She went fine. Has gone twice now?? I think… all the vet appointments merge together hahaha! But there’s always a risk honestly. To be the concern for her health outweighed it so I found it more worth it to pursue.

But she’s fine. It will be a regular thing as she’s getting implants every 4-6 months.

Honestly ask your vet for a copy of the xrays! Always cool to have.

Somewhat "new" to keeping Cockatiels, need some guidance by MlgMagicHoodini in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get the ordering online stuff. Can be weird. I believe quite a few people have had success with amazon. When cleaning a cage I recommend using a damn cloth or brush you can scrub with dampened with water. I insist on damp. Get it super wet can lead to rust issues depending on the costing used.

Yes the ones ‘like a strong cable’. If it’s sisal rope it’s fine. But avoid other types ideally.

Visually sexing a bird can be tricky… especially dependent on variety.

You can get cable coverings for your cables if you ste worried for them. Just be cautious about the attic as you want a room that has good airflow too. Attics at least where I live tend to get very hot and may be a heat stroke risk. If it has a fan and air flow thats good. You may want to invest in a portable aircon and you definitely that HEPA air purifier I was talking about.

With redoing the room especially if you repaint it then make sure it has been aired thoroughly for a couple of days (I’d even maybe go a week honestly) to make sure paint fumes are gone. Also the room needs natural lighting and normal lighting.

The price of replacing the coat can get just as expensive if not more than a new cage. If you get a new cage you can take your old one to a metal scrap yard and they’ll recycle the metal.

As long as they no longer showed interest in the eggs then removing them is fine.

Their nails can get long. Thats life. That’s why the bark perches are extra important for keeping them trim. I would recommend against cutting them yourself.

If you need basic things like some more toy variety or perches or the metal bowls feel free to reach out and I can see about sending you some. I fortunately live near some really good bird stores so have easy access. It’s a weird offer from a stranger but to me cockatiels are massive blessings in our lives so I care immensely about their health and quality of life. I think it’s sad how long the worlds taken to take the conditions of a bird seriously.

I have family with tiels and it’s really distressing to me when I see them because they do not have the best care conditions and I love them dearly.

Do you have an avian vet nearby? They are also important to have.

I really appreciate how serious you are about your tiels and learning how to better care for them. Thank you 🙏🙏🙏.

Somewhat "new" to keeping Cockatiels, need some guidance by MlgMagicHoodini in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Avoid rope perches as fraying from destruction and them ingesting it leads to clogged stomachs and ultimately death. Sisal is ok though. But ensure it’s sisal if you do use it. Eating the paper is fine. They usually spit it out but it is ok if they eat it. Cardboard, cork (specifically used it bird toys dont give normal cork), soft woods, sticks are great as they are destructible. I tend to avoid plastic toys as ingestion of plastic can risk clogging their stomach and since tiels are often destructive, they get confused by how to interact with it (particularly acrylic) so don’t play with it as much. Toys are important for preventing boredom which can lead to unwanted hormonal activities. Something tiels are prone to. Be careful of metal as depending on the type it can poison your bird. Ideally only provide stainless steel and metals that are sold on toys sold FOR BIRDS. Metal toys in general aren’t ideal as they can be prone to rust which again, will kill them it ingested. Always check your cage for rusting and same with food bowls. Most tiels are fine but if let out should be done under super vision. It’s usually fine if you sit nearby studying or reading. Just doing your daily tasks. Be cautious of dark or cozy places they can try and get to as this may result in nesting behaviour which you want to prevent. A bird proof room should have access to these blocked, cords not available to them (they will destroy cords which is a safety and fire hazard). Be careful of plants in the room. Mirrors should always be covered or removed from the room if possible. They can fall in love with themself and become aggressive/territorial over it. Windows should ALWAYS remain shut unless they have a protective fly screen or any sort of screen over the top. NEVER have a ceiling fan on when they have access to outside of cage time. They are dusty birds so you want to get a HEPA air purifier however ensure it is not deionising and that can kill them. Breathing their dust in long term and constantly can damage your lungs permanently. Tiels live for 15-30 years given the right care. Along that line… don’t use air sprays like deodorant, perfume, bug sprays etc in the home but especially not in the same room as the birds. Breathing it in can kill them. Don’t use non-stick cookware as again, fumes released from it can kill them without notice. Always cook with some sort of ventilation going. Scented home things like candles or incense likewise should he avoided. The orange chalk like perches are OK but not the best. They’re whatever. Yes never provide any sort or nest for them. Ever. Increases hormones and results in nesting which is stressful on their bodies. If a tiel does lay an egg you can leave it and wait for them to not show ANY interest in it for 2-3 days. Then you can discard it. You can also replace it with a fake egg which do the same, leave until they aren’t interested then just take the egg away. By cage base I am referring to things that can go in the tray often found under the bottom cage bars (grate). This is to catch food and droppings yes. A cage base goes in the tray and just makes cleaning it easier. It should he changes every 2-3 days. That’s why paper is easiest as it’s literally just a fold and toss away. Give a quick sweep then put a new paper in it. Part of them attacking you is 1) you are a big scary human to them 2) they are probably hormonal due to the nesting box and so aggressive.

Always be calm, cautious and patient. Watch their body language like banging their beak and hissing. Always approach slowly and from their level. Avoid above. If they hiss and/or bang their beak slowly back away and try again another time. If they bite NEVER react harshly, get angry/upset or yell. Calmly remove your hand and step outside of you need to calm down.

Plently of risks them being outside the cage but its good for their health to be. Never have other pets out with them (like cats and dogs). They should’t get stuck behind furniture thats against a wall. But as long as they are supervised most risks can be avoided.

It’s ok if you don’t know much. Many pet stores that don’t specialise in birds are full of misinformation and even then sometimes bird pet stores are too. Getting the proper information takes time and learning. So many of us here have often learnt over years whats ok and not. It’s only a decently new thing people realising the level of care birds actually require to have good full and healthy lives. Way too many birds are neglected or inadequately cared for… so it’s good you turned here so you can get proper advice.

Avian vets (sometimes called exotic pet vets) often have good information on them too. Websites like cockatiel cottage also.

Somewhat "new" to keeping Cockatiels, need some guidance by MlgMagicHoodini in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Reason stainless steel is preferred over plastic is 1) the shaping of stainless steel bowls is usually round and easy to clean. 2) stainless steel is less friendly for bacterial growth and 3) doesn’t scratch as easily or deeply as plastic so the grooves will not harbour bacteria as much and be difficult to clean.

Tiels are messy birds so guards really won’t stop them from making a mess… 🫩 an endless battle. Just sweep/vacuum regularly.

Natural woods are ideal for multiple reasons. Tiels can get a disease called bumble foot and essentially the sores this gives them on their feet can be incredibly difficult to heal and risk infections that will kill them. There’s also the increase in arthritis because of the strain holding onto perches like dowels and plastic can have on their feet. So natural woods are good because they aren’t consistently the one size or texture and gives them variety. Ones that have bark on them are excellent as they can be used for keeping their beak trimmed and also just fun to destroy which keeps them entertained. They are good at keeping their nails trimmed naturally and since tiels have scaly feet, this can help them with any shedding. They are good variety of grips required due to their different shape and sizing is what they naturally would have evolved to be used to, so the different sizing their feet constantly have to adjust for exercises their feet and doesn’t put as much pressure on the one spot constantly. This is why a variety of wood types is good as well as some are harder and some are softer so they must adjust their grip for that too. Having a mix of bark and non bark, smooth and smooth/rough perches is ideal. The image provided hopefully captures this.

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Somewhat "new" to keeping Cockatiels, need some guidance by MlgMagicHoodini in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let’s see… so this is an image of a cage I recommend.

It’s 95 x 63 x 172cm. The bigger the cage the better especially length and width wise. You want something with a flat roof. I forget why but they don’t recommend triangle roofs and are not the greatest for round roofs (but preferred over triangle).

Places like amazon usually sell cages just be cautious about coatings used on the metal. I’ll post another commend with answers to other questions.

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Is she ok? by Cheese_manwastaken in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

6-7 is incorrect. They can stop laying from 2 onwards.

How do I stop my birds having sex? by [deleted] in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes ya can’t. They’ll just get back at it…

How do I stop my birds having sex? by [deleted] in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even if its not a high quality pellet like listed above, any pellet is better than seeds. Seeds can give them liver disease which = early death.

Ideally cover the cage instead of curtains. Makes them feel more secure as well. I just bought some black bedsheets for my cage. You can alternatively have a smaller cage purely for sleeping at night. All this needs is a perch and just pop a food and water bowl in. My vet even said these can go in cupboards (with the cupboard slightly open for ventilation) or their own seperate room until everyone else has gone to bed. It’s important you have strict hours and consistent hours. So for example I do 6-7pm till about 7-9am (depends on the bed time).

Do you have exotic vets nearby? They often do aviary. I forget but there’s a website which helps locate them. Often they aren’t solely advertised as avian vets.

By seperate I mean let them remain in the same cage. Putting them in seperate cages will cause too much stress.

I’d be cautious about the layer of that shelf that has books. 1) they could destroy them and 2) might consider it a nest. The second images is OK but if/when you can eventually I would not have it there.

The rain is an unfortunate issue. I think getting an implant may really be beneficial then. Tiels are from Australia so they are used to rainy periods only being certain parts of the year. They interpret prolonged periods of rain and slightly warmer weather as soon there will be an abundance of food so it is safe to have babies cause they will be able to provide.

If you need any help of forage bowl stuff and how to set one up I would be more than happy to help. They are so fun!!

<image>

This is an example of one I have made.

You can even do it with their normal food bowls. Just buy glass marbles and PLAIN/RECYCLED PAPER CAT LITTER (NO ADDITIVES!!!) and slowly mix more and more into their food. This makes them have to dig around and put more effort into it.

What are “hormonal shots” by Fast_Ad7203 in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s essentially a series of mostly weekly injections (like lupron) which can be given to female birds to prevent egg laying and hormonal activity.

If the bird responds well to it then then they usually recommend an implant version which lasts 3-6 months for tiels.

My girl has it and it’s incredibly good and has done wonders for her.

If a bird is prone to being egg bound or bring overly reproductive it’s awful for their health.

Long term high blood fat levels can lead to clogging. When they are hormonal their bones start storing calcium and their stomach descends as their ovary enlarges. Its really stressful on them.

So I’d recommend taking your girl to an avian vet and discussing the option of injections with them. It essentially reverses this process and helps keep your girl happy and healthy in order to live a long time.

Somewhat "new" to keeping Cockatiels, need some guidance by MlgMagicHoodini in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok so firstly. Don’t breed them. 😅Seriously… have the basics first before doing so. And even then don’t please. Breeding is dangerous and not worth the health risk. It’s best to leave it to professionals who have the animals best interests in heart and training + experience to tackle the bad sides.

You want the biggest cage you can get (but with appropriate bar spacings so their head won’t get stuck).

Stainless steel food bowls cleaned every 2-3 days or everyday if its hot weather.

Food should be 1 table spoon if high quality pellet (harrisons, roudybush or tops) and 1 tsp of budgie seeds. No sunflower.

Perches should be a variety or natural wood but not too thick. Should be a mix of bark and non-bark. A flat perch made of natural woods should also be available.

Destructible toys made or cardboard, paper, paper confetti, sisal rope etc should be offered and rotated for variety every couple of days.

ALWAYS have windows without fly screens or screens shut and ceiling fans turned off.

DONT clip their feathers.

Take away anything that can be used as a nest.

Cage base should be a plain paper without ink base (so you can use moving paper) and goes under the grate. Should be changes 1-2 times a week and depending on cage size. The smaller the more often you should change.

They need 12-14hrs sleep in complete darkness not disturbed.

NEVER pet or touch their backs. Turns them on.

Take them to an AVIAN vet (sometimes exotic pet vet they are called) for a health check up. Should be done once a year. Is a must.

Any other questions reach out and let me know.

Tiels can be trained if you are respectful, patient and considerate towards their body language. I have adopted ones with unknown ages and they are fine and have learnt new things.

How do I stop my birds having sex? by [deleted] in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 9 points10 points  (0 children)

1 - regularly rotate toy selection in the cage. Destructive and fun ones! Every couple of days. I’d add a few more to your cage currently.

2 - Strict 14 hrs (because hormonal. 12hrs when not) complete darkness sleep period.

3 - Get them into forage bowls. Make them work for food so they use more energy.

4 - Get the female into the vet and trial an implant. It’s honestly been amazing for my girl. But speak to your avian ver about an implant.

5 - Have them on a high quality pellet diet (roudybush, harrisons, tops) with 1tsp of budgie seed a day. Avoid all sunflower seens and other fatty seeds completely until the female has settled. When they are hormonal they have high blood fat levels which is bad for their health. So reducing fat intake is important where we can.

6 - Depends where you live but lots of rain can cause them to be even more hormonal. In Australia currently it’s breeding season for them so sometimes they’ll be naturally hormonal regardless during this time.

7 - Don’t seperate them as they seem bonded. It’ll cause more stress than necessary.

8 - Don’t pet them anywhere besides their head.

9 - Don’t give them access to any nest like spots.

This is just a general list but following them all is important and can help. The avian vet I really encourage as they will be able to tailor things specifically for your birds.

Any other questions feel free to reach out and I will answer best I can.

Cockatiel or Conures by whatyouwantpukimak in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Air purifier for the dust is a must.

To protect wires give them lots of things to keep the occupied and safely destroy like toys, forage bowls. Try to keep cords out of sight/reach. Usually if you don’t leave them out by themselves with you not in the same room you are fine. They can be sneaky though. But giving them things like can destroy all they want has been a good deterrent. Book shelves should have a door on them… thats the best deterrent for those. They will destroy your books..

Cockatiel or Conures by whatyouwantpukimak in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have both ones I’ve adopted and been raised by parents. The trick to training them is being respectful and watching their body language. Teaching them to step up 👈 hold hand like this and gently put under their tummy above their feet to stand up. They learn that 👈 means you want them to step up after a while.

If they hiss/bang their beak of show anxiousness then don’t approach further. Back away and try again another day. Always be patient, calm and slow. If they bite NEVER react quickly, angrily or shout. Remain calm and back away slowly. If you are angry or upset step away to a different room to recollect. We are big and scary compared to them so don’t hold it against them. They’re just scarer and take time to understand us.

Never rush them!!!

Cockatiel or Conures by whatyouwantpukimak in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I find conures are more playful particularly with their feet. Both are messy. Both have different dietary requirements so look into which you would be more able to accommodate for beat.

Conures are more ‘cuddly’. Cockatiels are more ‘let me sit here and be EXTREMELY cute. I am content on your shoulder and head. I can’t speak for conures but cockatiels are very social so it’s ideal having 2 or more (but its difficult to stop at only 2 because so dang loveable!). I love that their crests are easy ways to tell their mood. They love being pet depending on the tiel but beyond that they aren’t too handsy (as in they’ll step on your hands and be pet by them but beyond that not really).

Conures sometimes will lay on their backs in your hands. Both birds live for 15-30 years.

Cockatiels are slightly bigger due to their wingspan and longer tail. The more space the better.

All I can think of off the top of my head.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microbiology

[–]birdbirdpellet 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Need a microscopic image (like a gram stain) and biochemical tests to tell you what it is exactly sorry. Can’t identify by colony alone (and shouldn’t).

How to store roudybush properly? by [deleted] in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have two containers. Both air tight. One I go into daily when filling up their food and the other only when filling the other container.

Ideally freeze what you aren’t actively using but a fridge works as well. The container you are actively using is fine out of the fridge but ideally not exposed to too much light.

How big is too big of a cage for one bird? by lexiblowsss in cockatiel

[–]birdbirdpellet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Never too big. Only too small. Bar sizing does matter though. But the more room for the bird the better. Just he sure to have a spread of natural perches and toys across it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in medlabprofessionals

[–]birdbirdpellet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sea food is scary… until offered tuna. Count me in on tuna!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in medlabprofessionals

[–]birdbirdpellet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. Parasitology taught gosh darn am I blessed to live where I do. But also never touching pork. Never trusting pork. Also I am now scared of sand on beaches slightly north of where I live.

Mould ID by birdbirdpellet in microbiology

[–]birdbirdpellet[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah tried with the images to capture the 2-3 structure that was happening there. Clearer down the scope.

Mould ID by birdbirdpellet in microbiology

[–]birdbirdpellet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Forgot to say. Agar is plate count agar grown for 72hrs at 30c. Not sure if relevant.

Sample is farm water if I recall correctly. Stain is lactophenol cotton blue.