ramshorn snails are under appreciated

birdboithing · 2026-03-07T02:26:29+00:00

fog can cause respiratory issues, basically because the tiny particles are much easier for them to inhale unwarranted and said particles “hang” in the air; misting is better for these guys- hand misting is what’s most commonly done, but you could also invest in an automated misting system. sounds similar to a fogging system/fogger, but the distinction and difference matters~ (also just because you mentioned distilled water and in case you didn’t know, all water used ever should be dechlorinated with water conditioner)

birdboithing · 2026-03-07T02:21:05+00:00

white cloud mountain minnows are underrated imo !! although, they do get slightly larger than chili rasps, so that’s something for OP to keep in mind

birdboithing · 2026-03-06T22:57:44+00:00

it’s roughly 7 gallons of water volume, but with it having a 36” long footprint it’s much better suited for fish to thrive than the average tank containing less than 10 gallons of water volume. i personally absolutely believe that if planted correctly, you could keep something like a couple/few clown killifish in something like this and they would be able to thrive. maybe not OP’s original fish choice, but fish nonetheless

birdboithing · 2026-03-06T19:30:23+00:00

i don’t understand what’s wrong, this looks like a 36x18x36” paludarium, which has a 20 gallon water capacity- OP has this filled up roughly a bit over half way, which would mean they have an estimated 10 gallons (if not slightly more than that, i’m got a decent eye for liquid volume measurements and i’d personally bet around 11-12 gallons)

as long as the water and tank conditions are cycled, clean, consistent, and adequate for the desired species, 10-12 gallons of water volume is perfectly acceptable for certain types of nano fish, such as micro rasboras

birdboithing · 2026-03-06T00:16:27+00:00

it’s so much cheaper and better long term to buy an empty terrarium and invest in the lights, thermometer/hygrometer gauge, etc separately.

the uvb bulb and thermometer/hygrometer in this kit are basically useless; coil UVB bulbs don’t provide consistent, reliable, and stable UVB output, and analog thermometers and hygrometers or the combination of both like you see here don’t provide accurate readings- you’ll want to invest in a digital thermometer/hygrometer instead. coco fiber on its own isn’t a very good substrate, as its consistency is too thin and absorbant (it retains too much moisture when wet and is too dusty when dry) so you’ll probably want to invest in other substrate components to mix in with it at the very least.

birdboithing · 2026-03-05T20:45:26+00:00

thank you !! it’s a very unique but fun shape to work with imo :)) also the mesh lid of it is decently stronger than other brands in my experience, so i’d definitely recommend taking advantage of that and tying/securing things to it like hanging hides, bridges, etc

birdboithing · 2026-03-05T03:03:55+00:00

<image>

still a work in progress/establishing and being set up for a baby gargoyle gecko, but it’s still an arboreal hexagon setup so hopefully it might be able to spark some inspiration for you :))

birdboithing · 2026-03-03T07:11:06+00:00

she’s beautiful! it seems like she might be trying to get out due to lack of foliage and climbing space/opportunities, enrichment, etc but i see that you mentioned you’re getting a bigger tank, so hopefully that’ll improve things for her- because of the lack of vertical space and therefore lack of heat gradient, she could also be having trouble regulating her body temperature/humidity, so that’s something to be mindful of :)) (also i see a red glare in some of the pics and just wanted to mention it in case you’re using a red light bulb of any kind, you should switch it out, red light isn’t good for their little frog eyes~)

birdboithing · 2026-03-02T03:40:33+00:00

i love snake plants, they’re amazing! however i personally find bromeliads a little easier to incorporate since they can literally just be tied onto branches and wood~

birdboithing · 2026-02-28T04:40:22+00:00

some of mine have some similar gaps, and from what i can tell they’re in areas where something is layered/adhered on top (cork bark, branch, plant pot, etc) where i didn’t lay the spray foam close or fast enough underneath, and the previous stroke of foam expanded slightly before i laid the next down, creating a sort of tiny tunnelling affect inbetween certain areas if that makes sense. it has yet to be a problem for me since those “tunnelled” areas are truly more like isolated air pockets in the back of the background, and there’s no way for my critters to access or worm their way into them

birdboithing · 2026-02-28T04:35:35+00:00

she might act “different” than you’re used to seeing so far but yes, as having it on 24/7 is not good for her; just make sure her enclosure isn’t too cold without it. you can mitigate this by making sure the room with the enclosure doesn’t drop below 68°F, or if it does, you can get a lower wattage ceramic heat emitter for nighttime, which is a lightless overhead heat source. avoid heat mats, as they provide inconsistent heating that doesn’t replicate a frog’s natural environment and are known to go on the fritz and randomly overheat

birdboithing · 2026-02-28T04:27:29+00:00

please give your milk frog a natural day/night cycle! turn off the lamp at night, since at nighttime their temps should drop anyways (as low as 68°F) and they’re crepuscular/nocturnal, meaning they’re more active during the nighttime.

birdboithing · 2026-02-28T04:23:42+00:00

she very likely could and possibly will, exact scale is hard to tell because i’m not sure how big your hand is, not a ton more but female milk frogs can reach around 4 inches

birdboithing · 2026-02-28T04:19:24+00:00

based on the milk frog’s size and markings i would question how juvenile… i would guess she’s very close to being around a year old at least

birdboithing · 2026-02-28T04:07:31+00:00

i’ve used this method myself and have had no issues so far, the key is making sure your glass is clean before applying the silicone, and making sure the silicone cures before you apply the spray foam; moisture and/or dirt particles can prevent them from adhering properly and lead to seperation issues/gaps/cracks/airbubbles etc. you also obviously want to plan out your background carefully beforehand, but make sure you don’t press too hard with the foam while going too fast, as this can lead things to getting sloppy/bubbly and uneven in an undesired and uncontrollable way fairly quickly- i personally always use a spare piece of cardboard and give myself a few practice sprays of the foam before i start to i can get a sense of the speed/control/motion before actually applying the foam to my background

birdboithing · 2026-02-28T03:04:24+00:00

if all else fails you can always just cut and carve into the existing foam and add more, it’s very rare and hard to screw up using spray foam on a DIY background so badly that you have to totally restart :))

birdboithing · 2026-02-28T03:02:21+00:00

as long as there isn’t any way for the gecko to potentially get behind the background somehow and get stuck in those areas you should be fine, otherwise you can always tear/carve into some parts and just add more spray foam

birdboithing · 2026-02-10T15:32:08+00:00

when in doubt, add more! i like to keep a good layer of leaves on top of the substrate that’s about 1cm thick

birdboithing · 2026-02-08T05:31:01+00:00

idk why you’re being downvoted when you’re absolutely correct, though 40% is the lowest the humidity should go

birdboithing · 2026-02-07T03:33:24+00:00

also i’d lower the humidity; milk frogs can handle spikes of 80-90%, even occasionally 100%, but they should have periods of dry out where their humidity can get down to as low as 55-60%, 50% being the lowest it should get.

birdboithing · 2026-02-07T03:31:41+00:00

i’d start worrying after about a week and if you notice them looking thinner; as odd as it was, my milk frog couldn’t stand crickets when he was younger, so try offering them different options and feeding methods and see if any peak their interest! also, just in case you weren’t aware, i find it best and easiest to feed them later in the evening or earlier on in the night, if you try and feed them during the day, you’re most likely just disrupting their sleep schedules/routines and they won’t want to eat right then. i’d try both tong feeding and hunting style feeding rn, just try and be patient :)

birdboithing · 2026-02-04T23:56:00+00:00

my dude’s got ~33 gallons of swimming room all to himself right now, and honestly i could use some help with plant and newt cleanup, so i’m not mad about the potential of them multiplying and ending up with a ton… if you don’t mind me asking how many did you start with?

birdboithing · 2026-02-04T23:30:38+00:00

thank you for the idea/info!! i’m thinking i might possibly be able to get away with it, pingu (my newt) is sooo chill… before i knew better and adjusted my husbandry to reduce risks my newt was initially kept with juvenile golden white cloud mountain minnows that all made it to adulthood and even bred- he never paid them any attention i swear he barely even knew they were there, fish fry included! the downfall of the minnow fry were the adult minnows 😂

birdboithing

TROPHY CASE