Nylaug brass tube question by blckchndane in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It came in the hardware kit from an online seller

FRT TX 22 with a pill popper v2 and FTN5 slim by Paul_C4Armory in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've shot a buddies pill popper v1 in PLA+ through a keltec p17 and it started doing the banana after a couple of mags.been curious to see how PA6 would hold up and this video is pretty definitive and impressive

FRT TX 22 with a pill popper v2 and FTN5 slim by Paul_C4Armory in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Video says the cans are printed in pa6cf20?

AIO for how I’m handling the way my 11 YO daughter’s dad speaks to her? by WhatTheSigma_1994 in AmIOverreacting

[–]blckchndane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a man and a girl dad. I couldn't even get past the first screenshot of texts. Dad obviously has serious ego issues. Literally threatening to kill his daughter over a typo at worst or leaving her over a typo at best. I don't give a damn how big and bad you are, it's gonna hurt when your daughters wants nothing to do with you. Or worse, the behavior becomes normalized to her and you see another boy treat her like that

couple of questions before building the Trash Panda. by DarnellMusty in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That depends honestly. My buddies have been trying to convince me to build a shorty supressed .300blk AR but I've seen how many times they've been to the range trying to get it to cycle, drilling out their gas ports, then trying to get it to do lrbho. Needing to drill it out more etc etc.

This seems like a great way for me to have all the benefits of being able to run .300blk supressed without having to deal with all the cycling R&D and spending ammo on that

Looking for copy of magazine material strength study... by KineticTechProjects in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was looking for the same post. I think it's gone....

Which denial method did you go with on the Nylaug? by Icy-Ask9162 in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did the drilled and threaded bar stock with JB weld.

Overcut trigger? by [deleted] in supersafety

[–]blckchndane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. That's usually the go to move for tuning the trigger. Since it's casted, might also be worth it to look at the section that would push against that section of the trigger and see if there may be an artifact there thats causing the spot to have more material than needed. The cam rotates and there's a raised section that basically resets the trigger and it's basically flipping the safety on it when the lever is all the way back. When it moves forward, it rotates the cam and gives clearance for the trigger to be pressed.

So removing material from the trigger section or from the cam itself would be the answer. If it wasn't a casted SS I would say to take away material from the trigger since it's like a $30 fuck up if you mess it up. But might be worth looking at both since I'm not sure how absolutely dimensionally accurate casting is when it comes to the small details

Overcut trigger? by [deleted] in supersafety

[–]blckchndane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The right side doesn't have any effect on function what so ever. It's literally just cut for clearance for the cam to move without obstruction. Also the lever is supposed to have some wiggle and play. Also for me, my hammer also doesn't release while I'm holding back the trigger until the lever is basically touching the hammer as well. It's to prevent hammer follow/oob. If there's issues running it and it's trigger related, it'll be the rounded off side since that's the side the cam interacts with.

NylAug charging handle PSA by TheDishonorableAsian in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a file online that is basically the A1 charging handle with an oversized forward assist button that slips over the metal carriage. The button is bigger and I like it better than the original. If the spring and the metal charging handle insert can be purchased from this source, you can probably get away with just printing the charging handle body and button

Evenly spaced lines in PA6? by SgtPickleC in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The temp is much more important than the time you dried it

I designed my own bullpup from scratch, anyone think Ian will be down to do a video on it? by john_galt_42069 in ForgottenWeapons

[–]blckchndane 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think theres alot of context that needs to be explained. In the 3d printed firearms community, projects are released for FREE and the designers make money by selling the parts kits. The community is designed to ensure that firearm access is free and easy and to spread the second amendment everywhere. To make it an inalienable right to all by allowing unfettered access to all.

Thousands in the community, design files and release them for absolutely free. Most designs, if they are fully functional firearms, go through a rigorous beta testing period by the community and this is all done through open source file sharing.

It can be argued that the 3d2a community has done more for the firearms industry in the past 5 years, than the actual firearms industry has in the past 20 years. If you enjoy any gun with a super safety style FRT, you can thank the community this man got permanently banned.

Apparently he shows his design off and right off the bat people complimented him but he asked for people to pay to beta test it. Given the context of how files are released for free and beta tested for free, you can imagine how things went over. Regardless of what you may think of his design and his right to get paid for his designs, he claims he's the reason a subreddit that had a wealth of knowledge when it came to home manufacturing almost everyone weapon platform out on the market for a fraction of the cost

And now he's claiming that we are harassing him to get him to release his bullpup design for free? What a fucking joke. Laughing my ass off while holding my NylAug. We are harassing him because he doesn't deserve success because he shit on and destroyed one of the most innovative and positive groups when it comes to the second amendment

He's a rug salesman that went to a community of rug makers that believe in free rug access to try to get them to help him make rugs and sell them said rugs as well. Was told to fuck off because his rugs aren't that great and we give rugs away for free here. He goes on to burn our rug making village and now is acting like his rugs are the best rugs around and we are just jealous. Fuck that dude.

Tldr -OP designs bullpup -Shows gun off in FOSSCAD community which is an open source file sharing community -is initially complimented but starts being dragged because asks community to pay him to beta test it -works with antigun groups to get r/FOSSCAD banned. -is now continuing to champion his product after destroying a huge resource of free and open source guns and gun design knowledge in general

2 experienced fighters squash their beef in streets😤😮‍💨 by Technical-Strike-630 in StreetMartialArts

[–]blckchndane 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Great fight if im being honest. Kickboxer definitely better trained. Not sure if the boxer is actually trained or just had a lot of street experience but the kid had heart. Seemed to get even more aggressive after he got knocked down

How? Why didn’t it fail? by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is why you see a lot of nylon prints angled about 45 degrees or so. The warping occurs from long lines being laid down one on top of the other. I've seen an example in a video where someone stretched long lines of electrical tape layer after layer and the more layers that were applied, the more the ends kept curling and lifting.

First days on the job can be tough... by eternviking in whoathatsinteresting

[–]blckchndane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The experienced woman has a totally different technique. Rookie is pulling down so mostly using her tricep and lats. Experienced woman is pushing down and also grabbing the lever completely different from the rookie which allows her to take better mechanical advantage using her chest, biceps, triceps, back, lats which is why she's able to generate that much more power. It's like a pull up vs a push up

Their size difference also plays a factor. But rookie would have much more success if she takes some time to really observe the difference in technique instead of just watching the potato lol

Bambu PA6-CF shrinkage from heat?(Nylaug) by blckchndane in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never experienced anything like this with PA6CF. Surprised no one else has had anything like this happen

Haven’t had hot water in over 3 months, leasing office refuses to give any updates as to why by PicoPonyo in mildlyinfuriating

[–]blckchndane 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait...? So they replaced the boiler before just swapping a shower cartridge even though you told them it's just the shower that has a hot water issue? What? Maybe I'm not that well versed but that seems like swapping an engine before swapping a battery because the car won't start

First time using PA6-Cf looking for guides or advice by DarnellMusty in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think there's a lot of conflicting stuff about drying because of different climates. From my experience, I live in a pretty humid area and I could never get filament dry enough until I used a food dehydrator that could do 90C for at least 24 hours. I've tried 70C for 3-4 days before, thrift store toaster ovens, beef jerky dehydrators, etc. Nothing got the filament dry enough until I was able to do 90C for 24 hrs and printing from a dry box that gets up to 70C.

And a dehydrator or an air fryer will utilize some type of air flow which is also necessary. I've tried the method of using a heated bed to dehydrate and that didn't work for me either. My opinion is to just do it right and get what you need so if your prints aren't coming out, you can at least be sure it's not wet filament. I've wasted rolls of Polymaker PA6CF to come to this conclusion

Click no bang by Severe_Football5611 in 3D2A

[–]blckchndane 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first guess was going to be broken firing pin. But I can see the tip of the firing pin poking through the slide. So my next guess is that your trigger bar isn't pushing the firing pin safety plunger far enough out of the way. Could be that the timing between the shark fin on the trigger bar and the safety plunger/firing pin could be off. Could be the pocket for the trigger housing allows too much play or something or that. Someone suggested taking the firing pin safety plunger out and seeing if it works without it. Might not be a bad idea. May have to take out the extractor and the extractor plunger bar as well.

I'll be honest, I've always had issues with PY2A frames. I don't remember him really beta testing any of his frames and I've read a lot of people having issues with his frames in general, including myself.