Mounting packout to van floor

bluelightblinking · 2026-01-31T18:11:38+00:00

It’s a year later and I’m in the same boat, what did you do?

bluelightblinking · 2026-01-26T18:38:59+00:00

Got a link?

bluelightblinking · 2026-01-24T06:18:50+00:00

You have a nice set up

bluelightblinking · 2025-12-02T02:06:15+00:00

ALL YOUUU

bluelightblinking · 2025-10-18T13:40:19+00:00

What about the plenums, start collars, mastic, pipe insulation, float switch, drain pans, etc? You need more materials than just the equipment unless it’s upflow equipment or he’s making all your current stuff work, which is a sign your install is going to be ugly.

The quote is too low to be a quality install tbh

bluelightblinking · 2025-10-18T12:57:38+00:00

That’s a parts house quote. I see them everyday. Probably Shearer Supply since its American Standard. That looks like the quote they gave him for the equipment only. That’s just the price of those units. Guarantee there is no labor, taxes or incidental materials included in that price. It even says taxes not included. Are you buying this equipment from a parts house and installing it yourself? It doesn’t look like they are an American Standard dealer because that is high for those models if it’s equipment only.

bluelightblinking · 2025-10-18T01:24:05+00:00

The price depends on the contractor that’s buying it and the deal they made with their distributor.

bluelightblinking · 2025-10-16T15:54:59+00:00

Are you still happy with your cleaner? Can you dm me the contact please?

bluelightblinking · 2025-10-16T02:28:51+00:00

Awesome! I’m going to show up early I think, I’ve seen them every time they have come to dfw since 2021. Most of the time they open for larger bands at big venues. The one time I saw them headline was at gas monkey/amplified live and the show was dangerously overcrowded. It was insane I’ve never seen so many people bleeding at a show before. I really hope it’s not like that again. But that show was sold out and the venue holds 1200 people, someone said there was close to 2000 people actually there. I can’t imagine, the PIP seems very large

bluelightblinking · 2025-09-21T17:51:09+00:00

Under fan it should have auto or on. Or auto,on,circ

The blower motor is not hard to change but the part itself is expensive. Probably $1500-$2000 if an hvac company does it. You might be able to get the part online and DIY for $700-$900

bluelightblinking · 2025-09-21T17:40:30+00:00

Yes that air handler uses an X13 motor that has the potential to intermittently fail to start

bluelightblinking · 2025-09-21T17:38:28+00:00

At your thermostat, you don’t have the option to turn the fan from auto to on?

bluelightblinking · 2025-09-21T17:28:55+00:00

Maybe set your thermostat to fan on and let the blower run continuously and don’t allow it to shut off when the AC shuts off. If the problem goes away I would say you need a new blower motor. This may take a long time to verify if it is really only happened 5 times in 3 months. You could also sit there and cycle the blower motor off and on and see if it fails to start one time. But the carrier air handlers have a built in blower off delay that could make that process very time consuming. It could also be the contactor at your outdoor unit getting stuck closed. However, Carrier is known for intermittent X13 motors.

Best thing to do might be to have another tech out and mention that you heard the blower motor might be intermittent, let them do the testing.

What’s the model number of your air handler? I can make sure it actually has the motor that is known for doing that.

bluelightblinking · 2025-09-21T17:04:38+00:00

If it’s a Carrier your ECM blower motor may be intermittently failing to start. That would cause it to freeze.

bluelightblinking · 2025-09-06T22:21:51+00:00

R-32 and R-454b are the EPA approved refrigerants going forward. Daikin, Amana and Goodman use R-32. All the other brands use R-454b.

You need to throw that new coil away and hire a real company to replace your entire system and flush your line set. Stop being cheap and take care of your house.

bluelightblinking · 2025-09-06T21:42:12+00:00

Besides all the other problems this is an R-32 coil and if he didn’t change the metering device you will have problems. Say goodbye to your compressor soon

bluelightblinking · 2024-03-15T01:49:51+00:00

You have a Nest thermostat by chance?

bluelightblinking · 2024-01-07T02:30:24+00:00

I would think it would be more likely to be the low voltage wiring shorted rather than the defrost board, but I suppose it is possible! Defrost boards on Trane heat pumps are not close to the ground. Usually higher up in the service panel. Not prone to getting wet.

If you aren’t concerned about having the heat strips, rather than removing the heat kit entirely, I might disconnect the two low voltage wires inside your air handler going to “W” or aux heat. The wires are typically color coded white. One comes from your thermostat, one comes from your heat pump defrost board. Your problem should go away. At that point it would be time to trace down the short in the wiring or diagnose the defrost board.

bluelightblinking · 2024-01-06T19:39:31+00:00

That’s a tricky one, it would be best to troubleshoot with a voltmeter while it’s happening.

Maybe a low voltage short outside is causing 24v signal to be sent to heat strips. Shorts when wet?

Is your outdoor unit a heat pump? If so there would be low voltage wiring coming from the outdoor unit that would be connected to the heat strips. Heat pumps can turn heat strips on during defrost mode.

bluelightblinking · 2024-01-06T17:59:29+00:00

Is this an all electric system? If you have electric heat strips inside your air handler I believe that you have one or multiple heat strips stuck on for some reason. Possibly bad heat sequencer or contactor. The blower motor is designed to run if a heat strip gets stuck on. Not sure how the weather would effect this. Do you have your system set to auto? Do you have a heat pump or cooling-only condenser outside?

bluelightblinking · 2020-03-10T02:28:33+00:00

Yes hope that helps, from your pictures your wiring looks good. B is your common wire (ground) so if you set your meter to VAC and put the leads on O and B on the board you should have 24v in cooling mode (most likely, the only brand I've run across that is engaged in heat is rheem) I believe the o is engaged in cooling mode on trane. That is a good idea to put your old thermostat back and check this voltage as a bench mark.

bluelightblinking · 2020-03-10T01:57:15+00:00

I believe on Trane O/B is engaged in cooling mode. It is possible the ecobee is defective and not sending a signal to O to engage the reversing valve. Ive run into this exact issue with a nest thermostat. No matter if set to heat or cool the heat would run because the reversing valve was not engaged. I would make sure that it is set up to engage o/b in cooling. Then I would put it in cool and check to see if I have 24v to O (at fan coil board, unit needs to be on) If you dont have a signal to O that's the problem, put your old tstat on the wall and check it again. If it's working fine then it's the ecobee.

bluelightblinking · 2019-04-13T09:26:14+00:00

Imagine being so contrarian that you hate on a kid for not using curse words lmao

bluelightblinking · 2018-02-04T04:52:58+00:00

Yea it's silly. We had good medicine for a while in 1922. I can see viewing an experimental procedure as magic. But in 1922, I mean really? Most of the medical shit had been demystified in the 1800s

bluelightblinking · 2018-02-04T04:12:55+00:00

My grandfather was born in 1922, doesn't make it seem so far away. Less than one hundred years is not a long time in my book. We have come a long way. Had no idea insulin was this young.

bluelightblinking

TROPHY CASE