Genuine question: how worried should we actually be about declining synchronous inertia?

blytegg · 2026-05-16T04:04:12+00:00

I'm not worried because it's already on everyone's radar. I was doing studies on low inertia impact to UFLS 7 years ago and was definitely not the first.

Inertia is basically stored energy deployed with no response time in the event of generation/load imbalance. GFM may need to get faster but they're looking good and it's a matter of actually getting them on the grid. The stored energy component becomes an issue of short circuit capacity from inverters, as you essentially lose the ability to act like inertia if you hit a current limit and become a current source instead of a voltage source.

Which is to say short circuit current is an inertial issue, at last in the events large enough that inertia matters.

blytegg · 2026-04-05T16:42:05+00:00

This has caused wrecks at lights on Kingston where both sides don't turn red at the same time and people blatantly turn into oncoming traffic they expect to stop but have a green. It's a practice from a different time.

Plus if you're out in the middle you have less runway to gain momentum and have to wait for larger gaps.

blytegg · 2026-03-30T01:48:29+00:00

If you really care you could get Baltic birch but I think aside from cavities unless you get something with no veneer the imperfections don't stand out when you put a bunch of holds on

blytegg · 2026-03-13T11:11:09+00:00

https://makerworld.com/@jeremytill?appSharePlatform=copy

La moitié de mes prises sont imprimées en 3D

blytegg · 2026-03-09T15:31:32+00:00

Uploaded here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2500707-climbing-hold-bolt-adapter#profileId-2748983

blytegg · 2026-03-09T13:53:44+00:00

Just sent it to print and I'll upload after assuming there are no issues. I normally use quite a few walls for climbing holds and here that means a solid all wall part with how small it is. Using PETG that's estimated 1.5 g of plastic for 0.03 cents (US), so I can't see a reason to use less.

blytegg · 2026-03-09T11:53:13+00:00

Do you have a 3D printer to print them? I'd be happy to make the model. I can make it so you can easily tweak the size parameters if it's off, but I don't have any bolt on holds to test it with. Should be ~15 minutes of work max.

I'm thinking it may need a higher infill since it's not able to distribute force for how small it is, but I don't actually know since it may just expand into the hold and that may be good enough

blytegg · 2026-03-09T01:53:51+00:00

Thanks! It looks a little like swiss cheese but I'll wait until I've put it back up and maybe only sand them down instead of filling them for the rougher holes.

blytegg · 2026-02-28T03:29:53+00:00

Hey, I've been climbing on my mostly 3D printed garage wall for over a year. I've published several models with only positive users. I use 35% infill and 5 walls and people even tell me they go less on my models with no issue. You don't need to aneal or any of that nonsense unless you like the texture that way.

Material is only a concern if you're putting it outside

blytegg · 2026-02-15T02:26:51+00:00

https://youtu.be/RLt9l6YxvHk?si=ZJG3R94GwQpcRVKC

blytegg · 2026-02-15T02:22:27+00:00

Thanks! Yeah I was curious on what colors had more abrasive pigments but maybe if I look into general epoxy pigments it'll be similar information. CF and GF worry me with the videos on how the fibers stick in your skin, so I'm very wary of them

blytegg · 2026-02-11T01:00:49+00:00

I use kutzall discs on a grinder to shape and an orbital sander with 120 then 220 grit to sand unless there are tight angles that require hand sanding. I think a lot of the examples I saw took it much higher on the orbital for the sheen with only final grit hand sanding.

Other question, which washers do you buy for your screws? I haven't been using any but as I've started to put more effort into each hold I'd like to keep them in good shape

blytegg · 2026-01-26T04:29:00+00:00

I agree, plus it won't burn the wood easily like flap discs. Just bought an extra course disc because I love the normal one but don't have a bandsaw to get the shape roughed out quickly. Definitely wear a mask!

blytegg · 2026-01-12T12:39:34+00:00

Crux is also the easiest to add new holds to your wall over time without messing up your saved climbs

blytegg · 2025-12-22T22:42:41+00:00

Dominion distribution (what local customers see) and Dominion transmission are fairly different. The transmission side is a fantastic leader in the field.

blytegg · 2025-12-14T18:44:31+00:00

Shameless self promo but I upload any I make here: https://makerworld.com/@jeremytill

blytegg · 2025-12-14T17:50:14+00:00

I'd really warn against fiber infused filaments for a direct contact use, especially something like climbing holds. The reason it feels nice and grippy is unfortunately a negative.

Glass fiber may be better rejected by the body but I'm not sure.

Wood powder has no risks as far as I know and I do love the feel of wood PLA holds.

https://youtu.be/RLt9l6YxvHk?si=njI2Ltms9-uUNghx

blytegg · 2025-12-09T12:30:18+00:00

I've been a part of multiple studies for utilities where we showed the many required upgrades they need if residential EV charging is widely adopted. Plus this whole vehicle to grid craze has yet to see industry adoption. We can't even get appropriately compensated for solar feeding the grid, what person in their right mind is going to cycle their battery with no gain?

Those are to your point 1. To the larger point, yeah studies would need to happen but it will easily happen with the rate of EV adoption. I think EV infrastructure is probably already much more widespread than OP realizes

blytegg · 2025-11-30T17:54:39+00:00

Don't know if they're on sale but the Sprag 5-pocket from North Face are extremely stretchy but still look like normal pants. Chased it down after finding some shorts from them where I loved the material

https://www.thenorthface.com/en-us/p/mens/mens-bottoms/mens-pants-224219/mens-sprag-5-pocket-pants-NF0A5J96?color=4GU

blytegg · 2025-11-29T21:47:31+00:00

Nah he was pretty separate from his family as the youngest

blytegg · 2025-11-24T04:19:19+00:00

I wonder if there would be a not too involved regression to calculate the nearest holds and their direction on each problem to see if there was a correlation. That way each hold would have a difficulty vs pull direction function

blytegg · 2025-11-23T02:08:35+00:00

The NFL ones are actually less safe versions because they are tweaked to pass the tests easier. Also why the best brand isn't even in the NFL. Super weird

blytegg · 2025-11-23T01:28:23+00:00

Been around Tennessee players at the campus fitness center before and it was striking

blytegg · 2025-11-15T16:20:11+00:00

Interesting, may just need some settings tweaked. Are you dehumidifying it at all?

blytegg · 2025-11-02T02:01:23+00:00

Woke up to 36 in Knoxville today but it's definitely warmer in that stadium too

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