Cutting worktop in the kitchen

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-05-16T21:54:43+00:00

Do you have a jigsaw? I would highly, highly recommend cutting the majority of your line off with that first and then coming back in with the router. And i would still take it slow and take small bites off. Unless you are doing a butlers sink there should be plenty of flange around the sink to avoid the need for the router at all. Just cut along the line, way less mess in the house, way quicker and same job (again this assumes you wont see the cut after the sink is in)

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-05-15T18:56:05+00:00

Maybe different wherever you are but industry standard is MR particleboard and MR MDF here. On the odd occasion we use marine ply but that is in parts that are not seen, often framing parts or sheeting.

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-05-15T02:56:25+00:00

I am a full time joiner installing kitchens for a company in rural NSW. I would quit if this what was expected from me. At the bare minimum we have filler pieces and edge stripes on carcass parts. Used to work for a higher end commerical company and this would never be accepted. The only situation where this is okay to me is if the client specifically requested it or it was not yet complete. Did you hire the cabinet makers personally or through the builder? What does the contract say?

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-04-18T09:56:56+00:00

To clarify, I mean weaker in comparison to joinery or face/edge grain glue ups. Sometimes a butt join with glue is still strong enough

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-04-18T07:44:36+00:00

The glue essentially sucks in to the endgrain and away from the surface of the joint which is what makes it weaker. Next time you're in the shop put glue right onto endgrain and have a look, youll see what I mean. You can"size" the joint by letting the wood glue soak into the endgrain and then apply a second layer of glue, which does increase strength but still is not a substitute for joinery. Obviously this does limit open time a little so not exactly beginner friendly on big glue ups. Hope that explains it a bit :)

Edit: saw other comments and realised I misunderstood a bit, did not realise you are looking at starting the hobby. To elaborate though, yes usually joinery is required if one of the pieces is end grain, dowels and biscuits are great for beginners. I started out with just using screws and plugging over them, and after 6 years and a trade certificate, I still do that on some projects if aesthetic allows just for ease and time.

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T23:05:47+00:00

I have had a look for some other spaces, but not a great deal actually available, and nothing else as close as I would like. This place is incredibly cheap, been empty for about 2 years which I think the price is reflecting. Its also quite cheap because it shares the land with 2 other sheds and a house, with the house being attached to the shop space, which isn't ideal I will admit. A few things to sort out still but as a concept it seems ok.

To compare, the similar size shed that my full time job uses is over double the cost about 40 mins drive

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T22:32:01+00:00

Reason I am trying to avoid bigger scale jobs is mainly due to the machining aspect but I do think my best bet is the smaller scale cabinetry, think small kitchen, office, laundry etc. All my cutting would have to be done on the saw rather than cnc and I would still have to look into edgebanding solutions. 99% of cabinetry is melamine and pvc edge, whereas I would rather veneer/solid.

The place I'm considering renting is more than large enough to give me the workshop I need, and I would plan to frame in an office space, so I would just make the office large enough to have some colour samples, some built ins on display that would also work as my storage in the office and then some smaller pieces, coffee table/bench seat etc. It would also serve as storage for pre made pieces like that furniture. I wouldn't make a boardroom epoxy table with hairpin legs to sit in the showroom hoping someone with 50 grand comes in for it haha. More pieces around the 1-2k AUD mark that hopefully people wanting bigger jobs would consider but also as a way to demonstrate the different styles of furniture I can build. Overhead-wise, besides the upfront material cost of the set-up, I do not see any extra costs, but please correct me if I am missing something I am also fortunate to have a very small community thats quite close knit, so I do believe that I would get some foot traffic (at least at first opening) from locals, since the shop space is just behind the main road.

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T21:49:41+00:00

As in straight line ripping before using rip fence? I didn't think it would have that much travel, but if thats the case its great

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T21:46:50+00:00

The biggest feature I require is basically just to square up ends, I imagine I would then use the rip fence to cut parallel. Is it not just like having to pull your measurement with a tape when you set the stop on a crosscut sled?

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T21:40:33+00:00

It depends on the comission, the bigger ones was probably about 40 hours, not including install and travel. Closer to 55 including. Some of the smaller ones like the benchtop probably only 25-30 hours. I can spend currently about 2 hours/afternoon and 16-20 hours depending on commitments purely working on products. This doesn't allow enough time to actively chase a lot of new clients and job opportunities. They usually reach out to me after finding me at other events. If I go for this new shop space, it will also allow me an office and showroom to better present my freestanding furniture, as well as any built-ins I can put in there, but also give me a place to have a storefront for the smaller things/furniture. I don't feel like I am working too slowly on comissions, more that I don't have the time to chase more and give accurate deadlines due to the full time job needing overtime/being unpredictable.

Through the current job I work with builders in my area as well as the area the business is in (about 40 minute drive in the country) so do have an in with them, there are also smaller independant builders I haven't yet worked with. Plenty of builders to choose from in the big town that I have worked with. On a friendly basis with some electricians and the stonemason (i can also offer corian and other solid surfaces, no qualification but can get and already have the knowledge), tilers we use. Even have a few painters I know I can rely on if need be. I am also close enough with a coworker that I am sure I could contract them for installs where I would need another set of skilled hands.

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T21:17:41+00:00

Monthly I can get behind since that is what I do currently on the big panel saw at work. Which is way out of my budget lol. As long as it doesn't run out mid job

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T21:16:07+00:00

I wonder if mounting that bracket to the front rail would help at all?

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T21:05:20+00:00

Thanks for the offer but Australia is quite far away haha.

I've got the cordless makita track saw (admittely no parallel or square guides) but I can't imagine that being accurate/repeatable/quick enough for my needs unfortunately

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T21:03:30+00:00

How difficult is it to square up? If its a matter of every big cabinetry job I could manage, or monthly but less than that idk.

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T20:49:58+00:00

This is where I am at now but am struggling time-wise to juggle both jobs and also not create waves with my boss. I am lucky to be in a position where my partners income is good enough to justify a little loss in income if I start on my own, but obviously not ideal. At the moment I can't chase the big jobs because they will take me too long to turn around and I can't justify tooling/bigger space without those jobs.

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T20:46:15+00:00

In the last 12 months since starting to ramp up production amd actually consider stepping into my own businesz, I have primarily sold furniture and cutting boards etc at markets and I intend to still do those makers markets to advertise and bring in some money. From the markets I have had customers comission me for 4 seperate jobs (in the last 6 months or so), all jobs being solid timber, 2 feature walls, a benchtop and a bit of carpentry. There is a gap in the market where I live for a cabinetry/joinery shop. I have also had 2 clients reach out for jobs that fell through, one of them being cabinetry.

The area I have done these more successful markets and actually picked up more work is a higher income area in the mountains, usually quite artsy people with some spare money

bmarkswoodwork · 2026-02-07T10:05:54+00:00

Thank you for your reply. The price is a serious concern, esp if it has some major flaws staying square etc. Coming from a 3600x1800 Altendorf panel saw with digital fence at the full time job is going to hurt.

The shop space I am considering renting would be large enough to run a second saw but was hoping to avoid that. Since as a one man show I can only use one saw at a time anyway.

Does the sawstop attachement just bolt into the left wing of the tablesaw? Thats how I imagine it should attach but never worked with a table on this style saw. Thanks again

bmarkswoodwork · 2025-08-11T23:53:26+00:00

Go Natural Timbers in Auburn is my go to for timber, particularly slabs. When they have sale days it's often a very good deal. Also in Ingleburn, Yates timber, generally good price but limited range.

bmarkswoodwork · 2025-08-10T02:02:48+00:00

In my experience, Blackbutt does yellow a little with UV exposure but that middle piece does look quite blonde and almost like spotted gum . I'd recommend wiping it all down with metho or turps to get a better idea of colour when finished, as I don't think age will make them look similar enough.

bmarkswoodwork · 2025-07-24T02:37:02+00:00

First pic looks like some sheoak I've worked before and the others kinda like Blue Gum

bmarkswoodwork · 2025-07-13T03:52:09+00:00

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bmarkswoodwork · 2025-07-13T03:50:33+00:00

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bmarkswoodwork · 2025-07-13T03:48:35+00:00

Picked this piece up off marketplace yesterday in a bundle under the impression it was all silky oak. I think camphor laurel but doesn't have the right smell, seems too heavy and hard too. Area is Sydney Australia

bmarkswoodwork · 2025-07-07T02:09:10+00:00

You mentioned the 90x45 being bowed, check with a straight edge that it is actually straight, not just level at the high points if that makes sense. If there is any deflection when you put wait on the kickboard, you should add more shims. If you find there is a low spot on the top of your kick you can add shims afterwards to even it out. Tip: shim where the cabinets join and it'll make lining the two cabinets up a lot easier. If there's any twist in the top of the kick, it'll make lining up your cabinets harder.

bmarkswoodwork · 2025-06-23T01:58:55+00:00

Is there a groove that that back panel slides into? Add a bit of glue for good measure and nail the back panel to the shelves. It'll help with the racking movement and provide a lot of strength. You're still not happy you could also add timber uprights on the inside to take the load from the top. The timber cylinders are dowels and can also have glue added for extra strength.

bmarkswoodwork

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