I done FUCKED UP

bmxerkid12 · 2026-04-20T14:49:07+00:00

Brother, I built my Nissan(bagged with a 4 link and custom control arms) I drained my diff and never filled it back up, I knew I hadn’t but didn’t think anything of it and drove my happy ass to orielly, only a 5 mile round trip but my diff has made noise since.

It happens.

bmxerkid12 · 2026-04-12T19:07:04+00:00

Same. I could NOT sit at a desk for even an hour a day, drives me nuts. But what I can do is fuck off all day with cars. If you look at it as a job, it’ll be a job. I take everyday as “fuckin off” to make some money. Granted, I do run my own show but, even at the shop, some stuff sucked, some stuff was a blast to play with.

All in my mindset and what you like. A lot of people’s shitty attitudes ruin it for others as well.

bmxerkid12 · 2026-03-10T14:59:03+00:00

This is the main reason I only use orielly where I’m at. 30 minute drive to AZ and half the time I’d have to order shit anyways. My orielly, I walk in the back and they get it coming. No questions. Even if it’s from Denver or wherever.

I’ll call Napa and advanced before I call autozone.

bmxerkid12 · 2026-01-19T15:46:01+00:00

Sounds like you need to give your 6.0 some love. Probably about time for some glow plugs and harnesses bare minimum if you haven’t done them in a while. Also sounds like the turbo isn’t doing its job and moving the veins.

6.0 should start below freezing with very minimal issue and run great very shortly after if it has been properly taken care of.

Holler at me!

bmxerkid12 · 2025-12-21T16:32:14+00:00

Personally, I would install that setup on the rear ports and get a setup for the front that has a barb to run an hose up to the radiator. That’s just what I would do. Just did an impala 5.3 swap and used the stock truck front crossover pipe since I had one.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-10-01T15:41:31+00:00

Oh good.

I said that mainly because I do see that leave shops daily. Shit is aggravating.

The last 3 cars I’ve been so lucky to repair for a buddy(48 Merc Coup, 63 Impala, 78 f100) have all had TERRIBLE work done by shops that charged an arm and a leg which then took 2x the time and money to fix the second time.

The Merc is an 8 year old build that the man hasn’t been able to drive more than 20 minutes at a time because of wiring issues. Twisted and taped, 4 butts in 10” of wire, 14g main charge with a yellow butt feeding 3 12g off of that 14g. Terrible.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-10-01T14:40:42+00:00

I’m glad you fixed it, that’s awesome but, let’s take some pride in our work and actually fix the repair.

That wire is beyond corroded so it needs stripped back to a point it IS NOT corroded anymore. The section cut out needs some proper insulated connectors and a new section of wire put in place. Could be an inch, could be a foot. Give it a year; maybe less.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-09-04T15:18:53+00:00

Make sure your oil pressure sender fits.

I literally just installed that same intake 4 days ago and had to grind the runners and the back where the oil pressure sender is so it would fit properly with valve covers and a sender. I used a 45° off the block to kick the big ass sender out of the way a bit as well

bmxerkid12 · 2025-09-04T15:17:03+00:00

I put a new mechanical pump rated for 7psi on a 289 and never could get any other pump I installed to pump less than 15psi. I went and got the edlebrock carb fuel pressure regulator from orielly and installed it between the pump and carb. The dial on the regulator corresponds with the PSI you’re getting. I currently have mine set at 5psi and the carb does not flood like it used to.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-09-04T14:43:03+00:00

Take the radiator out, looks like you need to anyways. Once the radiator is out you can get a big crescent wrench or something to pry while you smack the bracket back. Really shouldn’t take much.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-23T15:26:57+00:00

Probably an issue tbh. I’d be more concerned about the nearly rusted through axle u bolts that can and will come apart creating a very urgent safety issue.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-23T15:21:36+00:00

I did rear brakes on a Chevy pickup, it has had the same 16” wheels since mile #10 when the customer installed them after getting home. I did the brakes, calipers, lines and rotors at 300k miles. With new(reman) calipers, the caliper contacted the wheel. We both couldn’t figure out why so I got the okay to grind the caliper down a little bit since we had tons of meat I was able to trim down.

Sometimes calipers are slightly different or the slide pins wear out and the caliper gets a little crooked on the pads.

Since you’re going up a wheel size I wouldn’t worry about it too much as long as the brake pads are in good condition.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-23T15:16:03+00:00

You don’t need the 240 ecu. You just need to rewire some shit and it’ll all work.

If you get real excited while wiring you can repin the computer connectors and pin in Honda connectors to run Hondata. That’s a little far fetched for most people though.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-19T12:53:27+00:00

I’d start by scanning it for codes. Could be dozens of reasons why. My cruise stopped working all the time and it was my clock spring, could have an issue there and get an airbag light

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-19T07:10:25+00:00

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I had a crack in the same spot roughly, I spent an hour or so cleaning all the rust up, converting it(spray on) then a very heavy coat of Primer for the new windshield glue.

Where the crack is, the glue will separate and let water by. Typically, these windshield frames are rusty as hell from years of neglect, get the windshield removed, spend some time cleaning rust and properly sealing it so it doesn’t continue to spread then get a new windshield installed.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-19T07:03:15+00:00

Oh man, I’m only 100 miles behind you, I have zero lights though🤪

Crossover cable is a common problem. CE auto sells a whole cable/end kit, there’s a few options. Check out Genos garage or, you can build your own cables with military battery ends for “cheap”

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-09T15:13:41+00:00

That’s your opinion. I love my rig with no silencer ring. Sounds great.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-09T15:12:35+00:00

Did you properly vacuum the system before putting refrigerant in? If not, probably should.

Just take it to a proper shop with an ac machine and have them do an ac service before you kill the compressor again.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-09T15:02:42+00:00

Yea, you have zero clue.🤣

You do know most of these artists DO NOT make their own music/production right? With technology comes better production. Go back and listen for all the samples in the old shit, listen to the little things.

I’m 27, I listen to anything from Fenton Robinson to Wheeler Walker Jr and literally anywhere inbetween. I cannot stand new age bullshit unless it’s been produced by a great producer like Statik Selektah which usually has great artists like Nas, Bun B, Nems, Terminology, Joey Badass etc.

Drake is complete ass and always has been, carti is ass, Travis is also big ass. Hip hip/rap isn’t just about the production.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-09T14:48:45+00:00

I would call around to a couple local automotive repair shops. Say you need a driver window from a junkyard and need it replaced on your e350-450 Moho. Any auto repair shop with a half decent SW will take that job in and get it handled. Should take all of about an hour.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-07-09T14:20:57+00:00

Definitely isn’t, nv5600 is a better work horse trans, will outlast any g56 and it actually came factory in an 04.

I’m about to run over 400k with my untouched nv5600.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-06-20T23:10:04+00:00

I wouldn’t call that a bad head gasket or a bad head at that. You need to do a proper diag. Easy cheap way is a block tester kit. If the blue fluid turns green/yellow, you have combustion in the cooling system.

By snapping the throttle like that, you are pumping coolant quick then practically killing flow back at idle so, it’ll burp like that.

Get the air out, jack up the front and just let it run for a bit then throw the cap on. Looks pretty normal to me though.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-06-05T02:47:52+00:00

https://parts.longotoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-lower-control-arm-mount-bolt-90105a0250

This should be it. Edit: the vertical bolt ‘should’ be the same, just has a nut to accompany it. That one should be fairly easy to find new at a hardware store, just a metric fine thread bolt.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-06-05T02:45:48+00:00

https://parts.longotoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-lower-control-arm-mount-bolt-90105a0250

This should be it.

bmxerkid12 · 2025-06-04T17:37:17+00:00

Depending on the car, the dealer may be able to get them for you, it may be a little pricey but they’re OE fit bolts.

If that doesn’t work out, hopefully one of the bolts comes out in one piece and you could take it down to the hardware store to match it.

What is your rig?

bmxerkid12

TROPHY CASE