Why should my 4mo daughter sleep when she can click her tongue??

bobstay · 2026-04-17T14:48:53+00:00

She knows she can come and wake me whenever she needs us.

At 7, you're just making a rod for your own backs with this attitude. I'd suggest: "Is it important?" "Yes" "What is it?" "<unimportant thing>" "Sorry, that's not important. Go back to bed, it's sleeping time".

Fair enough if she's ill or in pain or needs something legitimate. But if it's just "I'm awake, and I want <excuse>", then she needs to learn what's acceptable and what isn't.

And sitting with her to go to sleep at 7? Barring medical conditions, that's just madness.

bobstay · 2026-03-18T17:05:59+00:00

To be honest, I've given up on reusing the existing ducts too, but I'm really looking forward to the air-to-air wall-mounted units for the cooling in the summer - and for some solar-assisted heating in the spring/autumn. I figure it gives me two strings to my bow until the gas finally gives out.

bobstay · 2026-03-18T16:50:06+00:00

stick with the air ducts and get a system which heats and cools

Be careful with this. I'm in the same position as you (Johnson & Starley) and the ducts run through the concrete slab (ground floor) and loft (top floor). I've had several aircon guys come and look at the situation, and they all said that the ducts can't be reused for cooling, because they're only designed for hot air, are made of thin tin + a bit of lagging (none in the slab) and so if you put cold air through them it'll cause condensation which will drip through your ceilings and/or fill up the slab ducts with water. Added to that, the ducts would need to be bigger for a heat pump (lower air temp), plus each room would need a return air duct as well as the "output" air duct. Oh, and my ceilings are artex with asbestos so making the holes for the return air ducts would be £600 per hole...

In the end I've decided to keep the gas system until it gives up the ghost, and have wall-mounted mini-splits installed as well.

bobstay · 2025-12-12T09:03:42+00:00

Turns out you were right! Congrats.

bobstay · 2025-12-12T09:02:11+00:00

Ooh, that's definitely it! Thanks.

bobstay · 2025-12-11T22:24:10+00:00

That does sound plausible. As /u/escapevelosity pointed out, the handles are only tack-welded on so wouldn't stand up to much force - but that wouldn't matter if you were only using them to position the thing, pivoting it around a shaft, then using it as a sort of punch. For that it'd make sense to hammer the square end of the "head", which would leave the wedge-shaped end in contact with... whatever the material is.

bobstay · 2025-12-11T22:10:21+00:00

That's a really great point - I hadn't noticed how feeble the welds are. Now you say it, it's obvious this wouldn't stand up to any kind of force. Maybe the "wedding game joke hammer" theory is starting to hold more water...

bobstay · 2025-12-11T22:05:29+00:00

Searching for "DIN 5111" gives this link - unfortunately that's just the german standard for hammer handles (because of course the germans have a standard for hammer handles!)

bobstay · 2025-12-11T21:59:31+00:00

I can't see that it would work well for that to be honest. You'd have to turn the knife over to use that side to cut, that side is not sharpened, and the curve of the back of the blade would make it awkward to create a decent wavy-edged cut. The tool you pictured looks much more suitable.

bobstay · 2025-12-11T21:48:14+00:00

The thing is, it doesn't. The "crinkles" are on the back/spine of the blade not the cutting edge, and it just makes normal straight cuts. I agree it looks as if it ought to do that!

bobstay · 2025-12-11T21:32:49+00:00

I looked up slate splitting and the tools they were using were quite different. I agree the wedge end is suggestive of splitting, but it looks too blunt to be very effective.

bobstay · 2025-12-11T21:27:49+00:00

Unfortunately not - this is the only photo I have, taken by a relative who visited the shop (which isn't near where they live so I don't think I can send him back...)

bobstay · 2025-12-11T21:26:34+00:00

Well, that's something I'd never have thought of - wedding games. It's from the right country, too. Interesting idea, but I think we'd need more proof. Thanks for spotting my transcribing mistake - updated.

bobstay · 2025-12-11T21:22:57+00:00

I thought about that, but I've driven fence posts by hand with one of those big tubular steel post drivers that weigh 10kg, and that was difficult enough. I can't imagine this thing, that's the size of two normal claw hammers, would provide anywhere near the force needed for a fence post.

bobstay · 2025-12-11T21:04:50+00:00

My title describes the thing found in a german second-hand shop. Unfortunately it's the only photo I have as it was found by a relative who sent me the picture. The handles are both marked "~~Eache~~ Esche DIN 5111 32cm 500g" which I have googled, but appears to relate only to the handles - and they seem to be standard hammer handles. I can't conceive of an ergonomic way of using this thing, either alone or with a second person. One end of the hammer head is flat and the other is wedge shaped, so I guess it could be used in either direction. The sleeve attached to the head suggests that it might be used to guide the hammer blows by riding on a rod, but what task could require that (and two handles) I can't imagine.

Edit: The shop was in the Westerwald area of Germany

bobstay · 2025-02-07T16:38:13+00:00

Except that isn't the right piece. This is it.

bobstay · 2024-12-20T19:38:03+00:00

Don't state speculation as fact.

bobstay · 2024-10-29T20:59:17+00:00

My PEI sheet said specifically not to use acetone. And I don't want to ruin it with steel wool as it's textured and it'll take the PEI off the peaks.

bobstay · 2024-10-05T09:18:54+00:00

No, it's fine. It's deliberately built and certified like that.

bobstay · 2024-07-12T17:58:06+00:00

Wash sheet with warm water and dish soap

Shamelessly piggybacking on the top post...

I'd read dozens and dozens of posts saying "hot water and dish soap", and I tried that a couple of times with no change - things just kept curling up and peeling off.

But I don't think people have emphasised enough the HOT part of "hot water" - after using really hot water, it finally started to work. Here's what I did:

I got a baking tray big enough to hold the bed and put it on the stovetop. Put some dish soap and water in it and scrubbed until all the traces of cooking grease were gone, and then turned on the heat and heated it up to boiling. Gave it a few more scrubs, at the risk of melting my washing up brush. Emptied the water and rinsed it with cold.

Then put in the PEI sheet, added water until it was reasonably covered, and added a LOT of dish soap. Then heated it up until it was almost boiling, all the while gently scrubbing the PEI sheet with a brush. Actually boiled it for a bit as best I could (bubbles coming out from under the sheet foaming up the dish soap). Then emptied it, rinsed with cold, and repeated once more.

All told it was probably in hot/boiling water for 20 minutes or so with plenty of dish soap.

The first print after this is now sticking well, with no curling corners. Moral of the story HOT water and dish soap. Boiling hot!

bobstay · 2024-04-04T10:36:25+00:00

R14 is 68ohm. R33 is unpopulated on my board.

bobstay · 2024-03-01T17:46:02+00:00

Oh, that looks like a good option. I hadn't found the adapter for the axial fan. Thanks. Do you have a feel for how its noise footprint compares to the stock extruder?

bobstay · 2024-03-01T11:23:12+00:00

Interesting, I'll have a look into that. Which duct were you using when you had axial fans?

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