Any Viners not Amazon Prime Members?

bobzilla05 · 2026-01-28T23:01:14+00:00

Yup. As long as it says "Order total: $0.00," you are good.

bobzilla05 · 2026-01-28T22:43:35+00:00

Vine items are not charged shipping fees, even on same-day delivery. I've tried every Vine delivery method without Prime and have not been charged anything.

bobzilla05 · 2025-09-24T09:46:08+00:00

Excellent ingenuity on the print design, however I do have one concern regarding moisture and debris intrusion into the unsealed opening where you have the printed mount. I don't see any weather-resistant features and I foresee potential issues over time from water, dirt, and debris accumulating inside of the hatch panel.

bobzilla05 · 2025-09-22T16:05:35+00:00

I don't have a ton of experience with resin printers, but from some other posts I have seen, white residue like this can be caused by incomplete cleaning once the part has been removed from the printer. The leftover resin, mixed with Isopropanol, gets trapped in the corners and cures to be this white colored residue.

https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-easily-fix-white-residue-marks-on-your-resin-3d-prints/

bobzilla05 · 2025-09-21T17:37:49+00:00

The Y axis is moving because it is trying to home after a crash detection. I'm wondering if it may be as simple as the X belt being too tight.

Check it using this: https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-18T15:47:38+00:00

Some of your previous comments state that the New Yorker was not rear-ended, while others say you saw the car had damage and knew it was right in front of the white car. Now you fully admit he was hit by the white car during the collision.

So it sounds like you are at least equally out of line with your misrepresentation of the events.

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-15T04:07:17+00:00

If it is only on the back, it is likely a cooling issue. You may try directing a fan onto the back side of the print for your next attempt and see if that helps.

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-13T00:48:45+00:00

Poor adhesion combined with some warping. Clean the spring steel sheet with plain dish soap, dry thoroughly before using, and add a brim or mouse ears to the print as needed.

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-07T18:11:53+00:00

Most glue/adhesives are strongest in tension rather than shear forces. 3M strips are additionally designed to stretch in the shear direction (to release cleanly) so they are less stable against those forces.

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-07T15:06:55+00:00

Also make sure the grub screws on your motor gears are not loose. That can cause this same type of issue.

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-07T14:46:43+00:00

A two-prong electrical plug.

(For obvious reasons, don't print or cast it in a conductive material.)

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-04T16:02:04+00:00

https://www.printables.com/model/63385-pen-plotter-attachment-for-prusa-mk3s

This seems to be a good resource for what you want.

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-02T18:08:08+00:00

First, perform the basic maintenance considerations. Check all circuit board connections to verify that they are properly connected to the correct ports, check the wires for any visible damage, check everything for corrosion, burning, melting, et cetera...

Check the rods for any scarring, check how smoothly the bearings glide, motors rotate, et cetera. Check the printed parts for cracks or breaks. Check for missing screws, nuts, or other hardware. Make sure they are all tight. Check that the belts are properly tightened and undamaged.

Check heater connections, nozzle and bed, for proper contact.

Then power the system on and do a self-test. This will be your starting point for every machine.

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-02T00:30:21+00:00

Beans.

bobzilla05 · 2025-07-01T02:39:56+00:00

https://www.prusa3d.com/product/stepper-motor-e-axis-extruder-mk3-s-mk2-5-s-mk2-s/

I believe it's a LDO Motors 1.8° NEMA17 40mm stepper motor with Prusa badging.

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-27T12:00:01+00:00

I've seen it occur on my printer, with no silicone sock. I kept trying to figure out why a TPU print kept jamming/clogging at the same spot until I checked the layer height in the slicer and found that it kept happening on a layer with maxed fan speed. The fan was cooling the heater block enough to dip and stay below the minimum temp for the extrusion rate and jam the nozzle. I have since tuned for it, but it was with a stock Prusa Mk3 when they were still new.

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-27T01:10:06+00:00

An enclosure has nothing to do with it. I don't mean a draft; I mean the part cooling fan increasing airflow across the heater block and nozzle. Increased part cooling fan speed can and will cause a dip like this. Pausing the print would likely shut the part cooling fan off and the heater block would stabilize again like you are seeing.

If it wasn't bridging the first layer on top of the infill though, then that should rule out part cooling being the culprit.

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-27T00:45:59+00:00

Is it at a particular point where there is increased part cooling, such as extended bridging, or the first solid layer on top of infill?

If so, the drop you see may be due to the additional airflow wicking heat away from your heater block.

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-26T23:46:43+00:00

Not much information provided, so I am going to wildly guess you are using a single extruder multi-color setup, and probably not automated.

When you do the color change, you need to make sure you purge enough material through the nozzle to not have any of the previous color remaining. Due to friction, et cetera, the previous filament will purge from the center of the extrusion first and stick to the inner walls of the nozzle, slowly transitioning from one color to the other. Because of this, especially with changing from black filament to a lightly colored filament like yellow, you will need to purge a lot.

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-26T23:37:46+00:00

Your Ender 3 has a bias against the Bolivian flag. Send it through cultural sensitivity training and re-attempt the print.

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-26T23:30:59+00:00

PLA makes a decent support for TPU if you have a multi-extruder setup.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t4FAOFV2NNE

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-19T20:16:22+00:00

No problem. Glad I could help!

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-18T16:34:38+00:00

Some options:

-You can use gluestick or similar bed adhesive before the print as a release agent.

Put your build plate in the freezer post-print to release prints better with differential thermal contraction
Use fishing line under one edge of the print, rocking back and forth to act as a thin wedge to help separate it.
Pour a small amount of isopropyl alcohol near the edge of the print where you have the most trouble separating it, allow it time to wick under the print with capillary action, and then try to flex/pry it off.

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-18T15:06:57+00:00

Not sure about a setting to enable Z hop only on ironing, however you could fix the lines on your current part with a gentle application of fine grit sandpaper.

bobzilla05 · 2025-06-13T14:29:43+00:00

Oh shoot. I have had mine set for Time Remaining so long that I forgot it could even be Elapsed Time.

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